Vinyl Composition Tile (VCT)
Overview and General Characteristics: Vinyl composition tile is the most popular resilient flooring today for commercial applications. These 12” x 12” tiles come in a variety of colors and grades. They are easy to install and are cost effective. VCT offers good dimensional stability, durability, impact resistance, UV light stability and heat stability.
Composition: Approximately 60 - 70% limestone/clay/talc mixture, 15 - 20% binder (filler), 10% vinyl (resin), 5% fiberglass, 3 - 5% plasticizers and 1 - 5% pigment.
Maintenance Characteristics: VCT holds all types and brands of floor finish beautifully due to its porous nature.
Vinyl Asbestos Tile (VAT)
Overview and General Characteristics: Common resilient flooring that was produced from the mid-1950’s until the mid-1980’s. Much of it was produced in the 9” x 9” size, though 12” x 12” was also available. This flooring hasn’t been produced for health and safety reasons since mid-1980. VAT was known for its durability, dimensional stability and heat resistance as evidenced by the amount still found in older buildings.
Composition: Approximately 50 - 70% limestone, 5 - 20% asbestos, 15 - 20% binder, 5% plasticizers and 0.5 - 5% pigment.
Maintenance Characteristics: This floor accepts finish nicely. Being old and porous, it usually requires a coat or two of sealer if it is stripped (follow OSHA and EPA guidelines for stripping). On very old floors, use of high alkaline strippers is not recommended.
Sheet Vinyl
Overview and General Characteristics: This flooring is produced in sheet widths from 6’ to 15’, making it easy to install and eliminating seams which can trap dirt and moisture. Sheet vinyl is not commonly used in commercial buildings since it sacrifices durability when compared to VCT.
Composition: Similar to VCT but contains more vinyl resin and less limestone filler, giving it greater flexibility.
Maintenance Characteristics: Holds finishes nicely though generally not recommended in residential settings since finishing requires more maintenance and eventually stripping. Clean with neutral detergent.
Linoleum
Overview and General Characteristics: Invented by a British rubber manufacturer in 1860, linoleum is a tough, natural ingredient-based flooring that has enjoyed a slight resurgence with homeowners recently due to its positive environmental profile. It is still used in commercial applications because of its high durability. It is nearly impossible to tell sheet vinyl from linoleum once installed.
Composition: Linseed oil mixed with powdered wood and/or cork, ground limestone, resin binders, drying agents and pigments applied to a jute backing.
Maintenance Characteristics: Linoleum should be kept finished at all times since it is quite porous. New installations may be tough to finish for a few weeks since it off-gases linseed oil vapors. Stripping with highly alkaline strippers is not recommended since bleaching and fading can occur. Clean with neutral detergent.
To View Entire Article from Essential Industries Click Here
Monday
Common Flooring Types: Natural Stone Flooring
Natural Stone Flooring
Marble
Overview and General Characteristics: A beautiful floor surface that is not suited for large commercial areas or heavily trafficked areas due to its soft nature (scratches easily), high absorbency (stains easily) and acid sensitivity.
Composition: Combination of calcite and calcium carbonate.
Maintenance Characteristics: Penetrating sealers perform best on marble. Acrylic-based finishes can be used but success is often spotty. Marble should only be cleaned with neutral cleaner – avoid acid-based products, high alkaline products and products with high chelation.
Slate
Overview and General Characteristics: Slate is a smooth, soft, natural stone available in a wide variety of textures, colors and sizes. It offers good durability and stain resistance due to its semi-porous nature.
Composition: Shale, clay quartz.
Maintenance Characteristics: Slate is generally not finished with acrylic-based products although, if used, they will usually adhere. Penetrating sealers can be used if desired and are often recommended for areas exposed to food and liquid spills. Clean with neutral detergent.
Granite
Overview and General Characteristics: Granite is used sparingly in commercial buildings due to its high cost. It is hard, doesn’t easily scratch and is stain-resistant – making it ideally suited for residential flooring.
Composition: Quartz and feldspar mixture.
Maintenance Characteristics: Granite’s hard, smooth nature make it unsuitable for finishing with acrylic-based products. Clean with neutral detergent.
Click here to view Article from Essential Industries
Marble
Overview and General Characteristics: A beautiful floor surface that is not suited for large commercial areas or heavily trafficked areas due to its soft nature (scratches easily), high absorbency (stains easily) and acid sensitivity.
Composition: Combination of calcite and calcium carbonate.
Maintenance Characteristics: Penetrating sealers perform best on marble. Acrylic-based finishes can be used but success is often spotty. Marble should only be cleaned with neutral cleaner – avoid acid-based products, high alkaline products and products with high chelation.
Slate
Overview and General Characteristics: Slate is a smooth, soft, natural stone available in a wide variety of textures, colors and sizes. It offers good durability and stain resistance due to its semi-porous nature.
Composition: Shale, clay quartz.
Maintenance Characteristics: Slate is generally not finished with acrylic-based products although, if used, they will usually adhere. Penetrating sealers can be used if desired and are often recommended for areas exposed to food and liquid spills. Clean with neutral detergent.
Granite
Overview and General Characteristics: Granite is used sparingly in commercial buildings due to its high cost. It is hard, doesn’t easily scratch and is stain-resistant – making it ideally suited for residential flooring.
Composition: Quartz and feldspar mixture.
Maintenance Characteristics: Granite’s hard, smooth nature make it unsuitable for finishing with acrylic-based products. Clean with neutral detergent.
Click here to view Article from Essential Industries
Friday
Common Flooring Types: Man Made Stone Flooring
Man-Made Stone Flooring
Terrazzo
Overview and General Characteristics: Terrazzo flooring offers high durability and deep beauty. Its upfront cost is considerably higher than resilient flooring but when viewed long-term, it can actually be less expensive.
Composition: Marble, granite, quartz and/or glass chips mixed with portland cement, polyacrylic-modified portland cement or epoxy resin and poured into place.
Maintenance Characteristics: Portland cement and polyacrylic-modified portland cement floors hold finish nicely. Some pure epoxy-based floors can be tough to finish due to its low moisture absorbency and hydrophobic nature (non-affinity for water). Avoid using high pH cleaners and acid-based products on terrazzo.
Unglazed Ceramic (Quarry Tile)
Overview and General Characteristics: Quarry tile provides an attractive floor that is durable and easy to maintain. These tiles are usually red in color and 6” x 6” in size with a ½” thickness. Quarry tile is often installed in foodservice areas.
Composition: Made from a mixture of clays that are fired at high temperatures (approximately 2200 degrees).
Maintenance Characteristics: Quarry tile can be finished with standard floor care products although this is not generally advised in foodservice or other “production areas”. If installed in hallways, stairwells or other non-production areas, Eccothane™ can be used with great success on these floors. Clean with neutral detergent or an all-purpose cleaner.
Glazed Ceramic
Overview and General Characteristics: Glazing ceramic tile creates a durable surface that is easy to clean, resists stains and scratches, doesn’t fade and is slip-resistant.
Composition: Identical to unglazed except a liquid glass is applied to the tile at very high temperatures. This creates a hard, non-porous surface.
Maintenance Characteristics: Glazed ceramic tile will NOT hold floor finish. The surface is too smooth for proper floor finish adhesion to occur. Clean with neutral detergent or all-purpose cleaner.
Brick Pavers (Paving Tile)
Overview and General Characteristics: Similar to quarry tile but larger in size and thickness.
Composition: Similar to quarry tile.
Maintenance Characteristics: Similar to quarry tile.
Mexican Tile (Saltillo)
Overview and General Characteristics: Saltillo tiles are natural clay tiles, hand-made in Mexico. Similar to terracotta tiles, saltillo tiles are rustic by design. The beauty and character of each tile comes from variations in size, color and texture. It is extremely popular in Mexico and throughout the Southwestern United States.
Composition: Unprocessed clay.
Maintenance Characteristics: The high alkalinity and porous nature of this tile necessitates sealing and/or finishing. Stonethane or Eccothane™ are good options. Clean with neutral detergent.
Concrete
Overview and General Characteristics: Concrete is universally used for commercial building slabs. Most are covered with another flooring material such as tile, carpeting or wood. Concrete floors that are not covered with another material are gaining popularity in retail stores and other commercial buildings since it provides a low cost yet highly durable flooring surface.
Composition: Approximately 10 - 15% portland cement, 40% stone aggregate, 25% sand aggregate, 15 - 20% water and 5 - 8% air.
Maintenance Characteristics: Concrete can be tricky to finish with acrylic-based coatings. High alkalinity, high moisture, grease and oils, and unknown curing compounds and sealants can make finishing difficult. Floors with a history of accepting acrylic floor finishes can generally be finished with any Essential coating.
Click Here to View Article from Essential Industries
Terrazzo
Overview and General Characteristics: Terrazzo flooring offers high durability and deep beauty. Its upfront cost is considerably higher than resilient flooring but when viewed long-term, it can actually be less expensive.
Composition: Marble, granite, quartz and/or glass chips mixed with portland cement, polyacrylic-modified portland cement or epoxy resin and poured into place.
Maintenance Characteristics: Portland cement and polyacrylic-modified portland cement floors hold finish nicely. Some pure epoxy-based floors can be tough to finish due to its low moisture absorbency and hydrophobic nature (non-affinity for water). Avoid using high pH cleaners and acid-based products on terrazzo.
Unglazed Ceramic (Quarry Tile)
Overview and General Characteristics: Quarry tile provides an attractive floor that is durable and easy to maintain. These tiles are usually red in color and 6” x 6” in size with a ½” thickness. Quarry tile is often installed in foodservice areas.
Composition: Made from a mixture of clays that are fired at high temperatures (approximately 2200 degrees).
Maintenance Characteristics: Quarry tile can be finished with standard floor care products although this is not generally advised in foodservice or other “production areas”. If installed in hallways, stairwells or other non-production areas, Eccothane™ can be used with great success on these floors. Clean with neutral detergent or an all-purpose cleaner.
Glazed Ceramic
Overview and General Characteristics: Glazing ceramic tile creates a durable surface that is easy to clean, resists stains and scratches, doesn’t fade and is slip-resistant.
Composition: Identical to unglazed except a liquid glass is applied to the tile at very high temperatures. This creates a hard, non-porous surface.
Maintenance Characteristics: Glazed ceramic tile will NOT hold floor finish. The surface is too smooth for proper floor finish adhesion to occur. Clean with neutral detergent or all-purpose cleaner.
Brick Pavers (Paving Tile)
Overview and General Characteristics: Similar to quarry tile but larger in size and thickness.
Composition: Similar to quarry tile.
Maintenance Characteristics: Similar to quarry tile.
Mexican Tile (Saltillo)
Overview and General Characteristics: Saltillo tiles are natural clay tiles, hand-made in Mexico. Similar to terracotta tiles, saltillo tiles are rustic by design. The beauty and character of each tile comes from variations in size, color and texture. It is extremely popular in Mexico and throughout the Southwestern United States.
Composition: Unprocessed clay.
Maintenance Characteristics: The high alkalinity and porous nature of this tile necessitates sealing and/or finishing. Stonethane or Eccothane™ are good options. Clean with neutral detergent.
Concrete
Overview and General Characteristics: Concrete is universally used for commercial building slabs. Most are covered with another flooring material such as tile, carpeting or wood. Concrete floors that are not covered with another material are gaining popularity in retail stores and other commercial buildings since it provides a low cost yet highly durable flooring surface.
Composition: Approximately 10 - 15% portland cement, 40% stone aggregate, 25% sand aggregate, 15 - 20% water and 5 - 8% air.
Maintenance Characteristics: Concrete can be tricky to finish with acrylic-based coatings. High alkalinity, high moisture, grease and oils, and unknown curing compounds and sealants can make finishing difficult. Floors with a history of accepting acrylic floor finishes can generally be finished with any Essential coating.
Click Here to View Article from Essential Industries
Thursday
Product Review: Hoover SteamVac All Terrain F7452900
There's a lot to like about the Hoover SteamVac All Terrain F7452900. Among its chief attributes is the ability to clean carpets and hardwood floors with equal effectiveness.
The Hoover SteamVac All Terrain brings together all the elements missing from previous models. It now has heated cleaning, automatically mixed detergent and an automatic rinse feature. Thanks to a hard floor package, this model can tackle wood, tile, linoleum and other bare floor surfaces. Soft, rubberized wheels help protect hardwood floors, and edge cleaners allow the SteamVac All Terrain to clean those hard-to-reach areas near baseboards or under cabinets. An 8-foot attachment hose and removable tool caddy round out the convenient features.
We like the attention to detail, which certainly makes operation easier for the average user. This model has a 30-foot power cord and a carry handle that makes it a simple task to reposition the cleaner. The main cleaning head has a series of five spinning brushes. Each brush can be removed and cleaned, and this is necessary, as the brushes may get clogged with loose carpet fibers, pet hair or other debris. The SteamVac All Terrain F7452900 has a 13-inch transparent nozzle to extract liquid from carpets. This nozzle snaps off for easy cleaning, and one should plan on cleaning it with each use because any debris that clogs this nozzle will decrease its suction. When properly maintained, the SteamVac All Terrain has plenty of suction, thanks in part to a 12-amp motor and split nozzle design. The nozzle has dual suction coming from each side of the nozzle, which gives it equalized suction all the way across.
Unlike previous models, the SteamVac F7452900 applies heat to floors to power clean particularly dirty areas. However, it's important to note the SteamVac does not actually produce or use steam in the cleaning process. It does have an auto-rinse feature, and this is a nice addition because it applies a clean water rinse to carpets and hard floors. This reduces the amount of detergent residue left behind. We tested the SteamVac All Terrain on a variety of carpet piles, as well as hard surfaces, and we were impressed with its cleaning performance. We like the fingertip controls for their placement and ease of use. This unit has onboard tools, including an upholstery tool with spinning brushes, and a hard floor hand tool with a cleaning pad. The SteamVac All Terrain F7452900 is a versatile, powerful carpet cleaner that makes a useful addition to one's floor care repertoire.
Pros: Effective and powerful carpet cleaner, lots of extras
Cons: Does not actually use steam during the cleaning process
This review was written at "How Stuff Works.com" Click Here to View Article
The Hoover SteamVac All Terrain brings together all the elements missing from previous models. It now has heated cleaning, automatically mixed detergent and an automatic rinse feature. Thanks to a hard floor package, this model can tackle wood, tile, linoleum and other bare floor surfaces. Soft, rubberized wheels help protect hardwood floors, and edge cleaners allow the SteamVac All Terrain to clean those hard-to-reach areas near baseboards or under cabinets. An 8-foot attachment hose and removable tool caddy round out the convenient features.
We like the attention to detail, which certainly makes operation easier for the average user. This model has a 30-foot power cord and a carry handle that makes it a simple task to reposition the cleaner. The main cleaning head has a series of five spinning brushes. Each brush can be removed and cleaned, and this is necessary, as the brushes may get clogged with loose carpet fibers, pet hair or other debris. The SteamVac All Terrain F7452900 has a 13-inch transparent nozzle to extract liquid from carpets. This nozzle snaps off for easy cleaning, and one should plan on cleaning it with each use because any debris that clogs this nozzle will decrease its suction. When properly maintained, the SteamVac All Terrain has plenty of suction, thanks in part to a 12-amp motor and split nozzle design. The nozzle has dual suction coming from each side of the nozzle, which gives it equalized suction all the way across.
Unlike previous models, the SteamVac F7452900 applies heat to floors to power clean particularly dirty areas. However, it's important to note the SteamVac does not actually produce or use steam in the cleaning process. It does have an auto-rinse feature, and this is a nice addition because it applies a clean water rinse to carpets and hard floors. This reduces the amount of detergent residue left behind. We tested the SteamVac All Terrain on a variety of carpet piles, as well as hard surfaces, and we were impressed with its cleaning performance. We like the fingertip controls for their placement and ease of use. This unit has onboard tools, including an upholstery tool with spinning brushes, and a hard floor hand tool with a cleaning pad. The SteamVac All Terrain F7452900 is a versatile, powerful carpet cleaner that makes a useful addition to one's floor care repertoire.
Pros: Effective and powerful carpet cleaner, lots of extras
Cons: Does not actually use steam during the cleaning process
This review was written at "How Stuff Works.com" Click Here to View Article
Wednesday
Remove Bleach Spots from Carpet
We thought this was a great little tip on how to remove bleach spots from your carpet!
Spills happen during the daily laundry dash, especially when kids get into the washing machine action. And bleach, that must-have for truly white whites, makes for a fierce stain. You can, however, banish such blights from your carpet if you act quickly.
1. Wear rubber or latex gloves. Blot the excess bleach with a white absorbent cloth or paper towel.
2. Blot-rinse with water.
3. Gently blot detergent solution of 1/4 tsp. mild dishwashing liquid and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) warm water onto the stain, using a clean cloth or paper towel. Work from the stain's outside edge to the center.
4. Let the detergent sit for at least 5 minutes.
5. Repeat blotting with a clean white cloth until no more of the bleach transfers to the cloth and the bleach smell is nearly gone.
6. Rinse thoroughly with cold water.
Click Here to View this Article on Ehow.com
Spills happen during the daily laundry dash, especially when kids get into the washing machine action. And bleach, that must-have for truly white whites, makes for a fierce stain. You can, however, banish such blights from your carpet if you act quickly.
1. Wear rubber or latex gloves. Blot the excess bleach with a white absorbent cloth or paper towel.
2. Blot-rinse with water.
3. Gently blot detergent solution of 1/4 tsp. mild dishwashing liquid and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) warm water onto the stain, using a clean cloth or paper towel. Work from the stain's outside edge to the center.
4. Let the detergent sit for at least 5 minutes.
5. Repeat blotting with a clean white cloth until no more of the bleach transfers to the cloth and the bleach smell is nearly gone.
6. Rinse thoroughly with cold water.
Click Here to View this Article on Ehow.com
Deodorizing Carpets
Carpet Odor Control Tips
Carpets are a wonderful addition to the comfort and appearance of your home but they attract dirt and odors like magnets.
You can clean up the surface appearance of the carpet with a quick superficial sweeping with a broom, or a carpet sweeper or dragging out the heavy-duty vacuum with the 30 foot cord and shoving it around on the carpets for an hour. You'll wind up with a carpet that looks cared for - maybe even looks almost new, but still does not smell to good.
Nobody wants to replace carpet that looks perfectly good, has no worn spots or holes, isn't faded. But what in the world do you do if you can't remove the odors that you smell every time you walk into the room?
If the carpeting has been overly dampened, or is in a high humidity environment, or was poorly dried after shampooing, mildew or mold is probably your problem with smell.
If this is the case, you can use a special deodorizing solution available in the grocery store or try using plain water mixed with 20% plain white vinegar. Shampoo the carpets again, dry them thoroughly. (open windows, doors, and use a fan if necessary to remove any water remaining and your carpets will smell fresh and clean when dried.
Deodorizing Smoke Odors From Carpets
First of all, if someone is smoking inside the house, encourage them to smoke outside - You cannot keep your carpet deodorized and odor control wont help if the source continues the infiltration.
* Buy a large box of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda.
* Empty it into a large shaker jar, like the kind you use for shaking out ground Parmesan cheese.
* Using a liberal hand, walk around your carpet shaking the baking soda onto the carpet.
* With a corn straw broom, brush the baking soda into the nap of the carpeting making sure it gets into the fibers.
* Leave on overnight.
* In the morning, give the carpet a deep vacuuming, going over it several times to pick up as much of the baking soda as possible.
Deodorizing Carpets Due to Cat, Dog And Puppy Urine
Oh, oh! You open the front door to your home one evening and the smell hits you square in the face.
Those animals you love, the dogs, the cats, kittens, puppies, are little poop and pee machines! Even though you've picked up the waste - when you saw it - the memory lingers on. And wet urine stains often sink right in without being discovered at all, unless they leave a stain and/or begin to stink! You may try the above simple fix with baking soda for deodorizing the carpet, but - rest assured - that is not going to do the job.
Here are serious odor control tips to help you.
* Sprinkle the carpet generously with baking soda, and brush in. Allow to set for a few hours, overnight if possible.
* Then vacuum thoroughly and get ready to give the carpet a good shampooing with a steam cleaner.
* You will not be able to vacuum out all of the baking soda and that's okay.
* The residue will mix with the water in the cleaning solution and help sweeten and remove the odor.
* Either use the cleaning solution that is recommended for your particular brand of steam carpet cleaner, or buy one that is compatible off the shelf; look for one that specifically states it has odor removing properties.
* Note that you should not use any detergent/soap when steam cleaning. The soap residue is impossible to remove and will end up attracting more dirt.
* Follow manufacturer's recommended instructions for steam cleaning your carpet and allow to dry thoroughly before vacuuming.
You'll be pleased at the freshness of your home once the job is done and you are finished deodorizing your carpet!
Click Here to Read Article on Mrs. Clean USA
Carpets are a wonderful addition to the comfort and appearance of your home but they attract dirt and odors like magnets.
You can clean up the surface appearance of the carpet with a quick superficial sweeping with a broom, or a carpet sweeper or dragging out the heavy-duty vacuum with the 30 foot cord and shoving it around on the carpets for an hour. You'll wind up with a carpet that looks cared for - maybe even looks almost new, but still does not smell to good.
Nobody wants to replace carpet that looks perfectly good, has no worn spots or holes, isn't faded. But what in the world do you do if you can't remove the odors that you smell every time you walk into the room?
If the carpeting has been overly dampened, or is in a high humidity environment, or was poorly dried after shampooing, mildew or mold is probably your problem with smell.
If this is the case, you can use a special deodorizing solution available in the grocery store or try using plain water mixed with 20% plain white vinegar. Shampoo the carpets again, dry them thoroughly. (open windows, doors, and use a fan if necessary to remove any water remaining and your carpets will smell fresh and clean when dried.
Deodorizing Smoke Odors From Carpets
First of all, if someone is smoking inside the house, encourage them to smoke outside - You cannot keep your carpet deodorized and odor control wont help if the source continues the infiltration.
* Buy a large box of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda.
* Empty it into a large shaker jar, like the kind you use for shaking out ground Parmesan cheese.
* Using a liberal hand, walk around your carpet shaking the baking soda onto the carpet.
* With a corn straw broom, brush the baking soda into the nap of the carpeting making sure it gets into the fibers.
* Leave on overnight.
* In the morning, give the carpet a deep vacuuming, going over it several times to pick up as much of the baking soda as possible.
Deodorizing Carpets Due to Cat, Dog And Puppy Urine
Oh, oh! You open the front door to your home one evening and the smell hits you square in the face.
Those animals you love, the dogs, the cats, kittens, puppies, are little poop and pee machines! Even though you've picked up the waste - when you saw it - the memory lingers on. And wet urine stains often sink right in without being discovered at all, unless they leave a stain and/or begin to stink! You may try the above simple fix with baking soda for deodorizing the carpet, but - rest assured - that is not going to do the job.
Here are serious odor control tips to help you.
* Sprinkle the carpet generously with baking soda, and brush in. Allow to set for a few hours, overnight if possible.
* Then vacuum thoroughly and get ready to give the carpet a good shampooing with a steam cleaner.
* You will not be able to vacuum out all of the baking soda and that's okay.
* The residue will mix with the water in the cleaning solution and help sweeten and remove the odor.
* Either use the cleaning solution that is recommended for your particular brand of steam carpet cleaner, or buy one that is compatible off the shelf; look for one that specifically states it has odor removing properties.
* Note that you should not use any detergent/soap when steam cleaning. The soap residue is impossible to remove and will end up attracting more dirt.
* Follow manufacturer's recommended instructions for steam cleaning your carpet and allow to dry thoroughly before vacuuming.
You'll be pleased at the freshness of your home once the job is done and you are finished deodorizing your carpet!
Click Here to Read Article on Mrs. Clean USA
Tuesday
Taking Care of your Tile
Ever wonder how to take care of your tile? We found some great tips from the "World Floor Covering Association". Check it out!
Ceramic tile is beautiful, durable, practical and an elegant addition to any home. Are you picturing it in your home?
It also offers a seemingly endless variety of style options – hundreds of textures, patterns and glazings in numerous sizes.
But if you are about to make this flooring a solution for the way you live, take care. Take care of your investment and it will reward you and your home for many, many years to come.
Plus, knowing what’s expected of you regarding flooring upkeep can be a determining factor in the type of ceramic tile you purchase.
That’s why we put this section together for you. It’s about the care, considerations and cautions of maintaining a ceramic tile floor. Maybe your floor.
So check over the following advice and be a little smarter about smart and stylish ceramic tile.
Sweep but don’t “beat” ceramic tile.
It’s important to sweep a tile floor regularly. Dirt can adhere to the surface of tile, particularly styles with a textured surface.
Regular sweeping loosens and removes most of this dirt. So keep on sweeping.
Don’t forget those labor saving devices. Feel free to use a vacuum cleaner to sweep, but be sure to use one without a beater bar to avoid dulling and scratching the tiles.
However, the attachments that accompany vacuum cleaners are useful to collect dirt along edges or in between tiles.
Keep dirt in its place.
Be sure to use walk-off mats to minimize and contain dirt being tracked in at entryways. And shake them often, homeowner.
This reduces the amount of dirt being tracked across the tile floor, and reduces the wear to the finished surface.
Cleaning tips that really shine.
Ceramic tile floors should be damp-mopped regularly using the manufacturer’s recommended grout and tile cleaners.
For heavier soil, you can spot clean the floor with a sponge or clean cloth using the recommended cleaners.
Rinse well and wipe dry for more shine.
Textured tiles may require mild scrubbing with a soft brush or electric polisher/scrubber.
After cleaning with a mild detergent rinse thoroughly with clean, warm water to help remove any leftover residue.
If needed wipe dry with a clean towel to remove any film.
For soft water situations you may need to use an all-purpose cleaner.
Apply to the floor, let stand for 3 - 5 minutes, lightly scrub with a sponge, rinse well and you’re home free – dirt free too.
For heavier cleaning tasks there are cleaning products available from your local grocery store that can be used to remove soap scum, hard water deposits, and mildew stains.
You’ll want to consult the cleaning product’s instructions to make sure the product is compatible with your type of tile.
After cleaning, rinse well and wipe dry for optimum shine. And maximum pride.
No-Nos for those in the know.
Avoid using steel wool, scouring powders, or other abrasives that can scratch the finish of the tile.
Don’t use bleach or ammonia based cleaners, as these products can discolor your grout if used too often.
Also, do not clean glazed tile with oil-based cleaners.
Be fast on your feet. Try to clean up spills as quickly as possible so that the grout or tile doesn’t become stained.
While ceramic tile is considered very durable, it’s not indestructible and may crack or chip under extreme force.
Take the proper precautions when moving heavy objects across your tile floor. Get a small army to help you move that grand piano.
Cover furniture and table legs with protectors to guard your floor against damage.
Keep in mind that if a repair is necessary in the future, the replacement product may be a slightly different dye lot and/or texture than the initial installation.
However, the good news is that, with time and usage, the repair will blend in with the original product.
ceramic tile grout
Final advice: do caulk and consider sealing.
Once the tile has been laid and grouted, it’s your responsibility to maintain areas exposed to water by caulking.
Caulking will prevent expensive subsurface damage, as well as keep the tiled areas looking their best.
Depending on your lifestyle, sealing new tile and grout may be an option.
After the installation process is complete and the grout has had ample time to cure, sealing the grout and tile can provide protection from dirt and spills by slowing down the staining process.
Today there are also innovative grout colorants you should be aware of.
These products can transform the original color of grout and in some cases can act as a form of sealant. Please be aware that non-epoxy grout joints should be treated with a silicone sealer.
Regular care and maintenance will keep your ceramic tile looking new for years to come, and will keep your home a showcase for family and friends.
To read article Click Here
Ceramic tile is beautiful, durable, practical and an elegant addition to any home. Are you picturing it in your home?
It also offers a seemingly endless variety of style options – hundreds of textures, patterns and glazings in numerous sizes.
But if you are about to make this flooring a solution for the way you live, take care. Take care of your investment and it will reward you and your home for many, many years to come.
Plus, knowing what’s expected of you regarding flooring upkeep can be a determining factor in the type of ceramic tile you purchase.
That’s why we put this section together for you. It’s about the care, considerations and cautions of maintaining a ceramic tile floor. Maybe your floor.
So check over the following advice and be a little smarter about smart and stylish ceramic tile.
Sweep but don’t “beat” ceramic tile.
It’s important to sweep a tile floor regularly. Dirt can adhere to the surface of tile, particularly styles with a textured surface.
Regular sweeping loosens and removes most of this dirt. So keep on sweeping.
Don’t forget those labor saving devices. Feel free to use a vacuum cleaner to sweep, but be sure to use one without a beater bar to avoid dulling and scratching the tiles.
However, the attachments that accompany vacuum cleaners are useful to collect dirt along edges or in between tiles.
Keep dirt in its place.
Be sure to use walk-off mats to minimize and contain dirt being tracked in at entryways. And shake them often, homeowner.
This reduces the amount of dirt being tracked across the tile floor, and reduces the wear to the finished surface.
Cleaning tips that really shine.
Ceramic tile floors should be damp-mopped regularly using the manufacturer’s recommended grout and tile cleaners.
For heavier soil, you can spot clean the floor with a sponge or clean cloth using the recommended cleaners.
Rinse well and wipe dry for more shine.
Textured tiles may require mild scrubbing with a soft brush or electric polisher/scrubber.
After cleaning with a mild detergent rinse thoroughly with clean, warm water to help remove any leftover residue.
If needed wipe dry with a clean towel to remove any film.
For soft water situations you may need to use an all-purpose cleaner.
Apply to the floor, let stand for 3 - 5 minutes, lightly scrub with a sponge, rinse well and you’re home free – dirt free too.
For heavier cleaning tasks there are cleaning products available from your local grocery store that can be used to remove soap scum, hard water deposits, and mildew stains.
You’ll want to consult the cleaning product’s instructions to make sure the product is compatible with your type of tile.
After cleaning, rinse well and wipe dry for optimum shine. And maximum pride.
No-Nos for those in the know.
Avoid using steel wool, scouring powders, or other abrasives that can scratch the finish of the tile.
Don’t use bleach or ammonia based cleaners, as these products can discolor your grout if used too often.
Also, do not clean glazed tile with oil-based cleaners.
Be fast on your feet. Try to clean up spills as quickly as possible so that the grout or tile doesn’t become stained.
While ceramic tile is considered very durable, it’s not indestructible and may crack or chip under extreme force.
Take the proper precautions when moving heavy objects across your tile floor. Get a small army to help you move that grand piano.
Cover furniture and table legs with protectors to guard your floor against damage.
Keep in mind that if a repair is necessary in the future, the replacement product may be a slightly different dye lot and/or texture than the initial installation.
However, the good news is that, with time and usage, the repair will blend in with the original product.
ceramic tile grout
Final advice: do caulk and consider sealing.
Once the tile has been laid and grouted, it’s your responsibility to maintain areas exposed to water by caulking.
Caulking will prevent expensive subsurface damage, as well as keep the tiled areas looking their best.
Depending on your lifestyle, sealing new tile and grout may be an option.
After the installation process is complete and the grout has had ample time to cure, sealing the grout and tile can provide protection from dirt and spills by slowing down the staining process.
Today there are also innovative grout colorants you should be aware of.
These products can transform the original color of grout and in some cases can act as a form of sealant. Please be aware that non-epoxy grout joints should be treated with a silicone sealer.
Regular care and maintenance will keep your ceramic tile looking new for years to come, and will keep your home a showcase for family and friends.
To read article Click Here
Monday
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Do your carpets look old and run down, even after shampooing and cleaning...we found a few tips below to help your carpet shine.
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Remember when the carpet in your living room or bedroom was new? Remember how you admired it, and even invited your friends to admire it with you? Since then, it's no doubt taken quite a beating. Cigarettes have burned it and kids have run over it, tracking in mud and snagging it. The dog or cat has dirtied it up, and probably everyone in the family has spilled a drink on it a time or two. Unfortunately, replacing that carpet (and sometimes even a rug) can cost a lot of money. But what can you do, then, to bring back some of your carpet or rug's former glory?
Believe it or not, plenty! There are things you can do to fix those damaged spots. Let's talk about just a few of them.
1) Dropping cigarette or cigar ashes or stubs onto the carpet can be devastating. Once they touch, if you don't pick them up fast, they can cause permanent scarring. If you have a spot on your carpet that was once the victim of such an incident, take a look at it. As long as the burn did not go all the way through, you can get rid of the burnt spot by simply cutting it off with a pair of scissors. If, however, the burn is a bit too severe for this, measure how big the spot is. Now find some unneeded carpet from the same lot. For instance, maybe you've carpeted inside your closet with the same carpet. Cut enough for the spot, plus an extra half inch or so. Now you can simply cut out the burnt spot and replace it with the bit you took from the closet carpet. Remember, it's important to have a tight fit so that nobody will be able to tell that there is a hole there. Use carpet glue on the bottom of the plug, and then set something heavy on top of it overnight. If you've done this right, the formerly-burnt spot will look good as noon come morning.
2) Another common carpet problem is carpet fuzziness. This happens as the carpet's surface begins to get worn down and the rug fibers break. Also, as more and more grit and grime gets embedded, it speeds along the fuzz syndrome. over time, the carpet will lose many of its fibers. Much of the grime can be cleaned out with a to-quality vacuum. Then with a pair of scissors, you can get often even out the uneven rug fibers that normally accompany "the fuzzies."
3) Snagging is another problem that makes many carpets look old and worn. The most common causes for snagging are sliding large items across the floor rather than lifting them, as well as from scuffing from shoes and animal claws. You can easily correct snags with a pair of sharp scissors. Unfortunately, most people make the mistake of trying to pull on the thread, but this will only cause a run in the carpet. Remember: scissors not fingers.
4) If your carpet is stained by spills, remember that time is of the essence. Clean it immediately. Start by dabbing the stain gently with a wet sponge;; do not rub the stain. Now find something with a dull edge and scrape up any excess soil. After you've done all you can, use a commercial-strength carpet and rug cleaner. Test it first on an unseen spot (such as the carpet in your closet). If it does not cause discoloration, it's safe to use. Now dab some of it onto a dry cloth, and apply it to the stain. Use a gentle swiping motion, not too brisk. If the stain is still not gone, contact a professional carpet cleaner.
You can read the entire article from ehomeimprovement.org here
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Remember when the carpet in your living room or bedroom was new? Remember how you admired it, and even invited your friends to admire it with you? Since then, it's no doubt taken quite a beating. Cigarettes have burned it and kids have run over it, tracking in mud and snagging it. The dog or cat has dirtied it up, and probably everyone in the family has spilled a drink on it a time or two. Unfortunately, replacing that carpet (and sometimes even a rug) can cost a lot of money. But what can you do, then, to bring back some of your carpet or rug's former glory?
Believe it or not, plenty! There are things you can do to fix those damaged spots. Let's talk about just a few of them.
1) Dropping cigarette or cigar ashes or stubs onto the carpet can be devastating. Once they touch, if you don't pick them up fast, they can cause permanent scarring. If you have a spot on your carpet that was once the victim of such an incident, take a look at it. As long as the burn did not go all the way through, you can get rid of the burnt spot by simply cutting it off with a pair of scissors. If, however, the burn is a bit too severe for this, measure how big the spot is. Now find some unneeded carpet from the same lot. For instance, maybe you've carpeted inside your closet with the same carpet. Cut enough for the spot, plus an extra half inch or so. Now you can simply cut out the burnt spot and replace it with the bit you took from the closet carpet. Remember, it's important to have a tight fit so that nobody will be able to tell that there is a hole there. Use carpet glue on the bottom of the plug, and then set something heavy on top of it overnight. If you've done this right, the formerly-burnt spot will look good as noon come morning.
2) Another common carpet problem is carpet fuzziness. This happens as the carpet's surface begins to get worn down and the rug fibers break. Also, as more and more grit and grime gets embedded, it speeds along the fuzz syndrome. over time, the carpet will lose many of its fibers. Much of the grime can be cleaned out with a to-quality vacuum. Then with a pair of scissors, you can get often even out the uneven rug fibers that normally accompany "the fuzzies."
3) Snagging is another problem that makes many carpets look old and worn. The most common causes for snagging are sliding large items across the floor rather than lifting them, as well as from scuffing from shoes and animal claws. You can easily correct snags with a pair of sharp scissors. Unfortunately, most people make the mistake of trying to pull on the thread, but this will only cause a run in the carpet. Remember: scissors not fingers.
4) If your carpet is stained by spills, remember that time is of the essence. Clean it immediately. Start by dabbing the stain gently with a wet sponge;; do not rub the stain. Now find something with a dull edge and scrape up any excess soil. After you've done all you can, use a commercial-strength carpet and rug cleaner. Test it first on an unseen spot (such as the carpet in your closet). If it does not cause discoloration, it's safe to use. Now dab some of it onto a dry cloth, and apply it to the stain. Use a gentle swiping motion, not too brisk. If the stain is still not gone, contact a professional carpet cleaner.
You can read the entire article from ehomeimprovement.org here
Friday
Which Type of Flooring Should I Choose Part 3
Continued from "Which Type of Flooring Should I Choose Part 2?"
Before you Buy:
Before you Buy:
Before buying flooring, take detailed measurements of the room and create a scale drawing, if possible. Take these with you when you go shopping. Your flooring specialist will use this information to provide you with the most attractive and economical installation solution.
- Will the new floor have continuity with the other flooring in your home? Where does the floor fit in your overall decorating theme?
- Will you have to redecorate the whole room to match the new floor? What colors match the existing room décor? Color is a major consideration in floor selection.
- Light surfaces reflect a great deal of light while darker surfaces reflect little light, requiring more light sources.
- A room furnished in a light color scheme feels larger than darker rooms. Dark-colored flooring can make a large room feel more intimate.
- Stick with neutral shades to allow more colorful home decorating or choose bold colors for impact. Keep in mind that a light floor shows more soil than a darker floor.
- Where is the room? Does it have an outside entrance that generates traffic? Will pets or children be running or playing on it?
- Does anyone in your home have allergies? Because they harbor fewer dust mites, hard-surfaced floors, complemented with easy-to-clean rugs, are a better choice for people with allergies than wall-to-wall carpeting.
- Do you have a heated floor? Not all floor coverings are adaptable to subfloor heating.
- What’s the cost of the new floor, and how long will the floor last? Compare how long different types of flooring usually last. For example, if you are trying to decide between hardwood and laminate, remember that hardwood can be refinished but laminate cannot. Plus, when you've made the decision on what type of flooring you want, remember it will cost just the same to have a middle-grade carpet installed as it would to have the best quality carpet installed.
- What care will be involved in maintaining the floor? Will it be easy to keep clean?
- Can the old floor be refinished? Some existing hardwood floors can be refinished. If you like the look of wood, explore this option.
- Can you install it yourself? Are you able to recognize and repair inadequate subflooring and underlayment? What is the amount of preparation required? Are you able to remove and dispose of old flooring materials? Remember that some old resilient floors contain asbestos and require removal by a professional.
Wednesday
Which Type of Flooring Should I Choose Part 2
Continued from article "Which Type of Flooring Should I Choose Part 1"
Where is the room located?
You Can Read the Entire Article Here
Where is the room located?
Before you make your purchase, do a little research. Each type of flooring requires the proper substrate to work, therefore some floors are not recommended for all areas of the home.
Is the existing floor above grade (suspended), on grade or below grade? (see diagram)
- Basements are especially susceptible to ground moisture. Both grade level and below grade level floors have potential moisture concerns that need to be addressed.
- Make sure that you buy a flooring material suited to the grade level where the floor is to be installed. A flooring sales specialist can tell you if the floor you like will work.
You Can Read the Entire Article Here
Thursday
Which Type of Flooring Should I Choose Part 1
This article contains a lot of information about what type of flooring option may be best for your home!
Which Room Will it Be In
Each room in the house serves specific functions that require you to think about function as well as fashion.
Kitchens
* High traffic and dirt from the outside entry door.
* Spills are common from cooking, so floors must be easy to clean.
* Non-slip flooring is necessary for safety purposes.
Possible Solutions:
* Vinyl is a good choice for kitchen floors. In the event of a dropped glass or dish, a resilient floor like vinyl has more bounce and may prevent breakage. Remember, a deeply textured pattern may be harder to clean.
* Tile, laminate and wood are great kitchen floor alternatives. Rugs and mats can soften a harder material such as tile.
Bathroom
* Waterproof flooring is a must for those sink, toilet and bathtub overflows.
* Washable flooring is important for ease of cleaning.
* Non-slip flooring is necessary for safety purposes.
Possible Solutions:
* Vinyl has traditionally been the floor of choice for baths.
* Ceramic tile is gaining rapidly in popularity.
* Newer versions of laminate and wood products can be adapted to bathrooms even with excessive moisture. Make sure any rugs or mats are non-slip.
Living Room
* Focal point and centerpiece of home furnishings in most homes.
* Function varies from family room to formal receiving room.
* Choose flooring to match the room’s function and décor.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet offers fibers and styles that accommodate informal or formal use.
* Hardwood also provides an attractive, durable option, especially with the addition of area rugs.
Dining Room
* Wear-resistant flooring is a must if the floor is used regularly at mealtime.
* Stain-resistant floors are necessary for any area prone to food spills.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet is an option, but light colors tend to show stains more and may not be the best choice.
* Wood, laminate or tile work well in dining rooms.
Bedroom
* Floors are usually overshadowed by the bed and coordinating fabrics.
* Traffic is less of a problem here than in other rooms, so stains and wear should be minimal.
* Consider a neutral flooring that adapts to frequent décor changes. Too many bright colors can be overpowering.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet is traditionally used in bedrooms.
* Wood or laminate floors are good alternatives, especially if you add decorative rugs.
Hallways and Stairs
* Steady traffic brings dirt and moisture, especially to entry halls and mudrooms.
* Stains and wear are more visible.
* Look for a sturdy material that coordinates with the rest of the flooring in the house.
* Entry halls are the first part of your home a guest sees, so use this area to make a bold statement.
Possible Solutions:
* Inlaid patterns of wood parquet or ceramic tile can be dramatic and still handle traffic.
* Laminate flooring is a good alternative, especially if you add non-slip decorative rugs.
You Can Read the Entire Article Here
Which Room Will it Be In
Each room in the house serves specific functions that require you to think about function as well as fashion.
Kitchens
* High traffic and dirt from the outside entry door.
* Spills are common from cooking, so floors must be easy to clean.
* Non-slip flooring is necessary for safety purposes.
Possible Solutions:
* Vinyl is a good choice for kitchen floors. In the event of a dropped glass or dish, a resilient floor like vinyl has more bounce and may prevent breakage. Remember, a deeply textured pattern may be harder to clean.
* Tile, laminate and wood are great kitchen floor alternatives. Rugs and mats can soften a harder material such as tile.
Bathroom
* Waterproof flooring is a must for those sink, toilet and bathtub overflows.
* Washable flooring is important for ease of cleaning.
* Non-slip flooring is necessary for safety purposes.
Possible Solutions:
* Vinyl has traditionally been the floor of choice for baths.
* Ceramic tile is gaining rapidly in popularity.
* Newer versions of laminate and wood products can be adapted to bathrooms even with excessive moisture. Make sure any rugs or mats are non-slip.
Living Room
* Focal point and centerpiece of home furnishings in most homes.
* Function varies from family room to formal receiving room.
* Choose flooring to match the room’s function and décor.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet offers fibers and styles that accommodate informal or formal use.
* Hardwood also provides an attractive, durable option, especially with the addition of area rugs.
Dining Room
* Wear-resistant flooring is a must if the floor is used regularly at mealtime.
* Stain-resistant floors are necessary for any area prone to food spills.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet is an option, but light colors tend to show stains more and may not be the best choice.
* Wood, laminate or tile work well in dining rooms.
Bedroom
* Floors are usually overshadowed by the bed and coordinating fabrics.
* Traffic is less of a problem here than in other rooms, so stains and wear should be minimal.
* Consider a neutral flooring that adapts to frequent décor changes. Too many bright colors can be overpowering.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet is traditionally used in bedrooms.
* Wood or laminate floors are good alternatives, especially if you add decorative rugs.
Hallways and Stairs
* Steady traffic brings dirt and moisture, especially to entry halls and mudrooms.
* Stains and wear are more visible.
* Look for a sturdy material that coordinates with the rest of the flooring in the house.
* Entry halls are the first part of your home a guest sees, so use this area to make a bold statement.
Possible Solutions:
* Inlaid patterns of wood parquet or ceramic tile can be dramatic and still handle traffic.
* Laminate flooring is a good alternative, especially if you add non-slip decorative rugs.
You Can Read the Entire Article Here
Tuesday
How to Clean Floors
Even though we already have many floor cleaning articles, we were intrigued with the tips below and wanted to share with our readers!
Floor Cleaning Tips – How to Clean Floors Clean and Beautiful
Hardwood, tile, stone or other hard-surfaced floors can add much value to your home, and their low-maintenance is appealing to many people. Take these few simple tips to heart, and your floor will stay clean and beautiful for years to come.
Floor Cleaning Tip #1 – Vinegar Brings Floors Back to Life
If your floor is seemingly dull or listless, use a solution of 3 cups of vinegar to half-gallon of warm water for a quick and easy mop towards renewing your floor. The only exception to this is a marble floor, you should never use vinegar on marble floors. Apply the vinegar solution to the floor with your wet mop, and allow to dry. It will make your floor sparkle once again and bring it back to life.
Floor Cleaning Tip #2 – Use a Squeegee to Clean your Ceramic Tile
Ceramic tile floors are beautiful and functional. They have a tendency, however, to dull over time. This can be particularly unattractive for more polished tiles in bathrooms. The trick to keeping your ceramic tile shining is a squeegee as used for cleaning windows. Use your wet mop to spread a warm, soapy solution on the floor. Put the squeegee on an extended pole to save your back. Then draw the squeegee across the floor, removing the soapy water and leaving a clean floor. After each stroke, wipe the squeegee with a dry towel, and continue.
Floor Cleaning Tip #3 – Iron off Wax
When candle wax drips on your hard floor, it can seem impossible to get every last bit. However, it really isn’t that difficult. If the wax is still wet, use an ice cube to cool and harden it. Then use a credit card, plastic spatula, or dull knife to remove the wax. Finally, spread at least a dozen layers of paper towel over the affected area and run a warm iron over the towels. The wax will soften and seep into the towels. If the paper towels saturate through, be sure to change them to prevent damage to your iron.
Floor Cleaning Tip #4 – Do Away with Hairspray
Hairspray will quickly build up on your hard floor and dull the finish. And because of its inherent sticky qualities, normal soapy floor cleaning solutions don’t tend to cut through the build-up. Instead, use a clean cloth or sponge and ammonia to remove the hairspray. Be sure the area is well-ventilated. Never use ammonia on a marble floor; hairspray is just as damaging for marble floors, so avoid the hairspray in the vicinity of marble altogether. To clean marble floors, use plain water or a specially prepared solution specifically designed for cleaning marble.
This article can be found at Mrs. Clean USA
Floor Cleaning Tips – How to Clean Floors Clean and Beautiful
Hardwood, tile, stone or other hard-surfaced floors can add much value to your home, and their low-maintenance is appealing to many people. Take these few simple tips to heart, and your floor will stay clean and beautiful for years to come.
Floor Cleaning Tip #1 – Vinegar Brings Floors Back to Life
If your floor is seemingly dull or listless, use a solution of 3 cups of vinegar to half-gallon of warm water for a quick and easy mop towards renewing your floor. The only exception to this is a marble floor, you should never use vinegar on marble floors. Apply the vinegar solution to the floor with your wet mop, and allow to dry. It will make your floor sparkle once again and bring it back to life.
Floor Cleaning Tip #2 – Use a Squeegee to Clean your Ceramic Tile
Ceramic tile floors are beautiful and functional. They have a tendency, however, to dull over time. This can be particularly unattractive for more polished tiles in bathrooms. The trick to keeping your ceramic tile shining is a squeegee as used for cleaning windows. Use your wet mop to spread a warm, soapy solution on the floor. Put the squeegee on an extended pole to save your back. Then draw the squeegee across the floor, removing the soapy water and leaving a clean floor. After each stroke, wipe the squeegee with a dry towel, and continue.
Floor Cleaning Tip #3 – Iron off Wax
When candle wax drips on your hard floor, it can seem impossible to get every last bit. However, it really isn’t that difficult. If the wax is still wet, use an ice cube to cool and harden it. Then use a credit card, plastic spatula, or dull knife to remove the wax. Finally, spread at least a dozen layers of paper towel over the affected area and run a warm iron over the towels. The wax will soften and seep into the towels. If the paper towels saturate through, be sure to change them to prevent damage to your iron.
Floor Cleaning Tip #4 – Do Away with Hairspray
Hairspray will quickly build up on your hard floor and dull the finish. And because of its inherent sticky qualities, normal soapy floor cleaning solutions don’t tend to cut through the build-up. Instead, use a clean cloth or sponge and ammonia to remove the hairspray. Be sure the area is well-ventilated. Never use ammonia on a marble floor; hairspray is just as damaging for marble floors, so avoid the hairspray in the vicinity of marble altogether. To clean marble floors, use plain water or a specially prepared solution specifically designed for cleaning marble.
This article can be found at Mrs. Clean USA
Monday
How to Dry Wet Carpet in The Basement
This is an excellent article on how to take care of wet carpets.
If you are a homeowner you know the extra responsibility and work that comes with the territory of owning your own home. One situation that most homeowners will probably experience at least once is some type of water damage in their basement. It can be from severe rainfall which seeps in through the foundation. Another common cause of water leakage and wet carpet in the basement is through leaky or broken pipes. The collateral damage of these types of water damage includes destroyed ceiling tiles. But even more important, your carpet and padding needs to be quickly dried to prevent mold and mildew--not to mention a musty smell that won't go away.
If the problem is coming from outside the house or the source is not related to your plumbing then call a professional. Otherwise, it's likely the water is leaking, or even flowing, through the ceiling tiles in the basement. If that's the case then immediately shut off the main water valve in your house. If you don't know call a trusted neighbor who you think would know.
If the water is from a pipe that is either cracked, completely broken or out of the fitting, some water could still flow out for a couple minutes after you shut it off. Place the nearest bucket or plastic tub on the floor underneath the leak.
After turning off the water (by turning right to close='OFF' & turn left to open='ON')get the Wet/Dry Vac out to soak up as much water as possible. I used a shop-vac before and it worked just fine if you're concerned about soaking up water and your shop-vac doesn't specifically state "Wet" on it.
Use this type of attachment to cover as much wet carpet as possible. Slowly go over the area multiple times and from different directions. Depending on the size of the wet area, you should spend at least 30 minutes for a 5x5 area (feet). This attachment will create a good suction and may possibly raise the carpet a few inches from the pressure. Don't worry, this is actually good, since the pad can begin to dry that way too.
Turn the humidity down, or off, for your furnace if you have it on. Humidity is your worst enemy during this period. If you have a dehumidifier, place it in the middle of the room where the water damage is.
Set up at least two High Velocity Fans (preferably floor level). If you don't have these then find as many fans as possible. Maybe your neighbors have some. Perhaps your employer has some in their warehouse. The more powerful the fan the better. Make up for a lack in quality with quantity if you have to--take as many different lower-strength fans as possible around the circumference of the wet carpet. (Also set up your "wet floor" caution signs").
After completing the first six steps, the area (depending on the size) should start to feel dry. Don't stop the fans though! The pad is probably still a little damp even though you can't feel any dampness. Leave the fans on for another 12-24 hours. If you want to, sprinkle some Arm & Hammer baking soda (or other brand I suppose)over the area that was soaked but is now somewhat dry to the touch. Use a broom or whatever else you can find to spread it over the area. It's important to make sure at least the carpet is dry enough that the baking soda won't cluster up on you because it will be a pain when you vacuum it up. Leave the baking soda on for about 45 minutes to an hour and then vacuum it up using the shop-vac. Repeat a couple more times if necessary. You could also put a fresh layer of baking soda before you go to bed and vacuum in the morning.
This article provided by Ezine articles
If you are a homeowner you know the extra responsibility and work that comes with the territory of owning your own home. One situation that most homeowners will probably experience at least once is some type of water damage in their basement. It can be from severe rainfall which seeps in through the foundation. Another common cause of water leakage and wet carpet in the basement is through leaky or broken pipes. The collateral damage of these types of water damage includes destroyed ceiling tiles. But even more important, your carpet and padding needs to be quickly dried to prevent mold and mildew--not to mention a musty smell that won't go away.
If the problem is coming from outside the house or the source is not related to your plumbing then call a professional. Otherwise, it's likely the water is leaking, or even flowing, through the ceiling tiles in the basement. If that's the case then immediately shut off the main water valve in your house. If you don't know call a trusted neighbor who you think would know.
If the water is from a pipe that is either cracked, completely broken or out of the fitting, some water could still flow out for a couple minutes after you shut it off. Place the nearest bucket or plastic tub on the floor underneath the leak.
After turning off the water (by turning right to close='OFF' & turn left to open='ON')get the Wet/Dry Vac out to soak up as much water as possible. I used a shop-vac before and it worked just fine if you're concerned about soaking up water and your shop-vac doesn't specifically state "Wet" on it.
Use this type of attachment to cover as much wet carpet as possible. Slowly go over the area multiple times and from different directions. Depending on the size of the wet area, you should spend at least 30 minutes for a 5x5 area (feet). This attachment will create a good suction and may possibly raise the carpet a few inches from the pressure. Don't worry, this is actually good, since the pad can begin to dry that way too.
Turn the humidity down, or off, for your furnace if you have it on. Humidity is your worst enemy during this period. If you have a dehumidifier, place it in the middle of the room where the water damage is.
Set up at least two High Velocity Fans (preferably floor level). If you don't have these then find as many fans as possible. Maybe your neighbors have some. Perhaps your employer has some in their warehouse. The more powerful the fan the better. Make up for a lack in quality with quantity if you have to--take as many different lower-strength fans as possible around the circumference of the wet carpet. (Also set up your "wet floor" caution signs").
After completing the first six steps, the area (depending on the size) should start to feel dry. Don't stop the fans though! The pad is probably still a little damp even though you can't feel any dampness. Leave the fans on for another 12-24 hours. If you want to, sprinkle some Arm & Hammer baking soda (or other brand I suppose)over the area that was soaked but is now somewhat dry to the touch. Use a broom or whatever else you can find to spread it over the area. It's important to make sure at least the carpet is dry enough that the baking soda won't cluster up on you because it will be a pain when you vacuum it up. Leave the baking soda on for about 45 minutes to an hour and then vacuum it up using the shop-vac. Repeat a couple more times if necessary. You could also put a fresh layer of baking soda before you go to bed and vacuum in the morning.
This article provided by Ezine articles
Why Steam Carpet Cleaning is Still the Leader?
We thought this was an interesting post. It doesn't really give any reason why the steam cleaner is still a "leader", however, the description of what a steam cleaner does is excellent. Hope you enjoy!
Protecting the large investment you’ve made in carpeting for your home is motivation enough for wanting to take care of it. Keeping your carpeting fresh, clean and in good repair is a big undertaking.
Not only do you want for it to look good, you want for it to be good for the indoor environment in which your family lives and breathes.
Well known choices are available everywhere
You’re not the only one with these concerns. Carpet steam cleaning has become a major business. The yellow pages are full of service companies waiting to serve you. Equipment and supplies for DIY are right there in your local supermarket, ready to be carried off with your Saturday morning bacon and eggs.
Until alternative cleaning methods came along, steam carpet cleaning was just an automatic maintenance and problem solving procedure that didn’t really merit much thought about how it worked or what it actually achieved. You are one of today’s educated consumers who wants to know more than what time it is. You want to know how the clock works. Thanks to you, that is why this article is here.
How it workssteam cleaner
Steam cleaning your carpet has to begin with a very thorough vacuuming of the carpet. Be sure to give lots of attention to this step because leaving less dry soil and contaminants in your carpet means there won’t be as much clean up of the muddy mixture that results from the application of hot water.
When you vacuum, pay particular attention to the carpet nearest to entry doors because this is where the highest concentrations of dirt will be. Be sure to make numerous passes over these areas.
Steam carpet cleaning isn’t really steam cleaning at all. But, that’s OK because study has shown that high temperature moisture has a detrimental effect on the integrity of carpet fiber and the base they have been fixed to.
Steam carpet cleaning is a way of deep cleaning that integrates a hot water cleaning solution mix delivery system with a wet vacuum spent cleaner recovery system. Does that sound sophisticated to you? It isn’t really, but it probably seemed more so years ago at it’s introduction.
What has become sophisticated however, is the cleaning solutions which are available to you to run through the equipment. They are safer re has been major results oriented improvement worthy of your evaluation.
Does it get the job done right
Because the cleaning solutions are fully dissolved in the hot water, two problems are created. The dirty water recovery process cannot pick up all the solution so the carpet fibers, backing, and even the under pad remains damp. Depending on the ambient air humidity levels and the amount of water sprayed on, it can take as much as three or four days for your carpet to dry out. That is sufficient time for odor causing bacteria and unhealthy mildew to begin growing.
The second part of the problem of leaving moisture behind is that dissolved cleaning chemicals are being left on the carpet as well. When they dry, the detergent residue becomes sticky, and sticky carpet fibers will attract dirt and hold on to it. What this means is that you could have a nice clean looking carpet that is going to quickly become dirtier than it was before steam cleaning.
Most of the producers of steam cleaning chemicals and the service companies that use them have been working to develop cleaners with improved rinsing agents to overcome the sticky residue problem. Others look to ways of using less cleaning solution and therefore less moisture to pick up. Short of using trial and error, just who among them has made the greatest strides is difficult to determine.
Turning the job over to experts gets better results
As a DIY project be prepared for some work. The wheel mounted equipment, is a little cumbersome to set up but not too difficult to move around once you’re into the cleaning process. Most steam cleaning equipment consists of two tanks; one being a reservoir of cleaning fluid and fresh, hot water you fill manually from the tap.The other is a manually emptied depository for dirty water being returned from the carpet.
Water is pressure pumped into the carpet through a wand as you move it over the area to be cleaned and almost immediately sucked back up through a wet vac portion of the same cleaning wand. You can and should hold off on the spraying of more cleaning solution while continuing to wet vac until you are satisfied no more moisture can be extracted. You will easily get into a rhythm of switching back and forth.
There are several very good reasons for calling in a steam cleaning company to do your carpets. A considerable amount of carrying is involved filling and emptying tanks. If you’re not careful, it can become sloppy work as well. An experienced operator can also make a better “read” of the situation, knowing when and where to apply more solution. Let the cleaning service decide if any of your carpets are incompatible and which stains might benefit from spot cleaning. They’ll also get the work done much faster, but the best reason has to do with the equipment.
Ask some of the contractors working in your area, and you will probably find they use commercial equipment -some even truck mounted- packing more power than the machines available to you on the rental market. This alone could be enough to make a vital difference to the end result.
Why Steam Carpet Cleaning is Still the Leader Article found at http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com
Protecting the large investment you’ve made in carpeting for your home is motivation enough for wanting to take care of it. Keeping your carpeting fresh, clean and in good repair is a big undertaking.
Not only do you want for it to look good, you want for it to be good for the indoor environment in which your family lives and breathes.
Well known choices are available everywhere
You’re not the only one with these concerns. Carpet steam cleaning has become a major business. The yellow pages are full of service companies waiting to serve you. Equipment and supplies for DIY are right there in your local supermarket, ready to be carried off with your Saturday morning bacon and eggs.
Until alternative cleaning methods came along, steam carpet cleaning was just an automatic maintenance and problem solving procedure that didn’t really merit much thought about how it worked or what it actually achieved. You are one of today’s educated consumers who wants to know more than what time it is. You want to know how the clock works. Thanks to you, that is why this article is here.
How it workssteam cleaner
Steam cleaning your carpet has to begin with a very thorough vacuuming of the carpet. Be sure to give lots of attention to this step because leaving less dry soil and contaminants in your carpet means there won’t be as much clean up of the muddy mixture that results from the application of hot water.
When you vacuum, pay particular attention to the carpet nearest to entry doors because this is where the highest concentrations of dirt will be. Be sure to make numerous passes over these areas.
Steam carpet cleaning isn’t really steam cleaning at all. But, that’s OK because study has shown that high temperature moisture has a detrimental effect on the integrity of carpet fiber and the base they have been fixed to.
Steam carpet cleaning is a way of deep cleaning that integrates a hot water cleaning solution mix delivery system with a wet vacuum spent cleaner recovery system. Does that sound sophisticated to you? It isn’t really, but it probably seemed more so years ago at it’s introduction.
What has become sophisticated however, is the cleaning solutions which are available to you to run through the equipment. They are safer re has been major results oriented improvement worthy of your evaluation.
Does it get the job done right
Because the cleaning solutions are fully dissolved in the hot water, two problems are created. The dirty water recovery process cannot pick up all the solution so the carpet fibers, backing, and even the under pad remains damp. Depending on the ambient air humidity levels and the amount of water sprayed on, it can take as much as three or four days for your carpet to dry out. That is sufficient time for odor causing bacteria and unhealthy mildew to begin growing.
The second part of the problem of leaving moisture behind is that dissolved cleaning chemicals are being left on the carpet as well. When they dry, the detergent residue becomes sticky, and sticky carpet fibers will attract dirt and hold on to it. What this means is that you could have a nice clean looking carpet that is going to quickly become dirtier than it was before steam cleaning.
Most of the producers of steam cleaning chemicals and the service companies that use them have been working to develop cleaners with improved rinsing agents to overcome the sticky residue problem. Others look to ways of using less cleaning solution and therefore less moisture to pick up. Short of using trial and error, just who among them has made the greatest strides is difficult to determine.
Turning the job over to experts gets better results
As a DIY project be prepared for some work. The wheel mounted equipment, is a little cumbersome to set up but not too difficult to move around once you’re into the cleaning process. Most steam cleaning equipment consists of two tanks; one being a reservoir of cleaning fluid and fresh, hot water you fill manually from the tap.The other is a manually emptied depository for dirty water being returned from the carpet.
Water is pressure pumped into the carpet through a wand as you move it over the area to be cleaned and almost immediately sucked back up through a wet vac portion of the same cleaning wand. You can and should hold off on the spraying of more cleaning solution while continuing to wet vac until you are satisfied no more moisture can be extracted. You will easily get into a rhythm of switching back and forth.
There are several very good reasons for calling in a steam cleaning company to do your carpets. A considerable amount of carrying is involved filling and emptying tanks. If you’re not careful, it can become sloppy work as well. An experienced operator can also make a better “read” of the situation, knowing when and where to apply more solution. Let the cleaning service decide if any of your carpets are incompatible and which stains might benefit from spot cleaning. They’ll also get the work done much faster, but the best reason has to do with the equipment.
Ask some of the contractors working in your area, and you will probably find they use commercial equipment -some even truck mounted- packing more power than the machines available to you on the rental market. This alone could be enough to make a vital difference to the end result.
Why Steam Carpet Cleaning is Still the Leader Article found at http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com
Wednesday
What is In Your Carpets??
Most homes have carpet in them somewhere, but one problem with carpeting is that it's a perfect home to microorganisms such as mold, mildew and dust mites. It is also a reservoir for everything you track indoors on your shoes: soil, lawn chemicals, lead dust, asbestos fibers from automotive brake linings, animal feces, and anything else found on the ground outdoors.
Wall-to wall carpeting is virtually impossible to clean thoroughly, but here are some tips to help:
1. Encourage family members to remove shoes upon entrance into the home. Pesticides, pollutants and dirt come indoors on shoes and are tracked onto carpets. If going shoeless is not acceptable to family members, suggest that they wear house shoes (that don't go outside), slippers or socks.
2. Vacuum two or more times per week. Frequent vacuuming helps reduce the level of dust mites, which trigger asthma and allergy attacks. It also means getting rid of surface dirt on carpets before it has a chance to get ground in. A vacuum cleaner with strong suction, rotating brushes and a HEPA filter, so the dirt and dust won't get blown back out in the exhaust, is best. Go back and forth over the same spot several times, especially in high traffic areas, to get all of the dirt and dust!
3. Clean up spills on carpets immediately to prevent stains. Soak up liquid spills by covering them with clean white (or light-colored) towels or paper towels. Scrape sticky substances off carpets with a spatula or spoon. Don't rub the spill. That will damage carpet fibers and make the stain spread. To clean the stain, mix 1 cup warm water and 1/2 teaspoon mild liquid soap, such as dishwashing liquid or fine fabric detergent. Apply a small amount, blot by pressing a clean white towel into the carpet and lift. Then repeat the process until the stain is removed. Don't scrub. Be patient. After stain is removed, rinse the area with a solution a few teaspoons of white vinegar to one cup water and blot with another clean towel.
4. Use household ingredients to clean carpet stains. Club soda removes red wine stains. Use an ice cube to harden gum and candle wax, then scrape off. Sprinkle greasy stains with baking soda, corn starch or corn meal. Let stand six hours or overnight. Then vacuum. Mix 1/3 cup vinegar with 2/3 cup warm water and apply to the stain. Then blot with a clean towel and repeat until the stain comes clean.
5. As a last resort carpet stain remover, try rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Test first on a hidden spot of the carpet as either substance may lighten or bleach the carpet. Apply a small amount to the stain, then blot with a clean, white towel. Repeat until the stain is gone.
6. Use baking soda to remove odor from carpets. Carpet deodorizers and fresheners often contain fragrances that merely mask the smell. Baking soda soaks up the odor. Just sprinkle baking soda over the surface of the carpet. Let it stand for 15 - 30 minutes. Then vacuum.
7. Steam clean carpets with plain water. Don't bother with the detergent. Just use water and operate the machine as directed. The hot water will remove a considerable amount of dirt, even without detergent. Alternatively, use a mixture of 1 cup white vinegar and 2-1/2 gallons of water. (Add another cup of vinegar for a stronger solution.) This is an effective way to remove shampoo residues from earlier cleaning attempts.
8. Ventilate well during and after carpet cleaning. To speed drying time and prevent mold growth, keep windows open and use fans. Avoid carpet cleaning on humid or damp days.
Information provided by Web MD
Wall-to wall carpeting is virtually impossible to clean thoroughly, but here are some tips to help:
1. Encourage family members to remove shoes upon entrance into the home. Pesticides, pollutants and dirt come indoors on shoes and are tracked onto carpets. If going shoeless is not acceptable to family members, suggest that they wear house shoes (that don't go outside), slippers or socks.
2. Vacuum two or more times per week. Frequent vacuuming helps reduce the level of dust mites, which trigger asthma and allergy attacks. It also means getting rid of surface dirt on carpets before it has a chance to get ground in. A vacuum cleaner with strong suction, rotating brushes and a HEPA filter, so the dirt and dust won't get blown back out in the exhaust, is best. Go back and forth over the same spot several times, especially in high traffic areas, to get all of the dirt and dust!
3. Clean up spills on carpets immediately to prevent stains. Soak up liquid spills by covering them with clean white (or light-colored) towels or paper towels. Scrape sticky substances off carpets with a spatula or spoon. Don't rub the spill. That will damage carpet fibers and make the stain spread. To clean the stain, mix 1 cup warm water and 1/2 teaspoon mild liquid soap, such as dishwashing liquid or fine fabric detergent. Apply a small amount, blot by pressing a clean white towel into the carpet and lift. Then repeat the process until the stain is removed. Don't scrub. Be patient. After stain is removed, rinse the area with a solution a few teaspoons of white vinegar to one cup water and blot with another clean towel.
4. Use household ingredients to clean carpet stains. Club soda removes red wine stains. Use an ice cube to harden gum and candle wax, then scrape off. Sprinkle greasy stains with baking soda, corn starch or corn meal. Let stand six hours or overnight. Then vacuum. Mix 1/3 cup vinegar with 2/3 cup warm water and apply to the stain. Then blot with a clean towel and repeat until the stain comes clean.
5. As a last resort carpet stain remover, try rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Test first on a hidden spot of the carpet as either substance may lighten or bleach the carpet. Apply a small amount to the stain, then blot with a clean, white towel. Repeat until the stain is gone.
6. Use baking soda to remove odor from carpets. Carpet deodorizers and fresheners often contain fragrances that merely mask the smell. Baking soda soaks up the odor. Just sprinkle baking soda over the surface of the carpet. Let it stand for 15 - 30 minutes. Then vacuum.
7. Steam clean carpets with plain water. Don't bother with the detergent. Just use water and operate the machine as directed. The hot water will remove a considerable amount of dirt, even without detergent. Alternatively, use a mixture of 1 cup white vinegar and 2-1/2 gallons of water. (Add another cup of vinegar for a stronger solution.) This is an effective way to remove shampoo residues from earlier cleaning attempts.
8. Ventilate well during and after carpet cleaning. To speed drying time and prevent mold growth, keep windows open and use fans. Avoid carpet cleaning on humid or damp days.
Information provided by Web MD
Maintaining High Traffice Areas
Another great answer provided by IICRC.org
The following steps should be taken when dealing with carpet in a high-traffic area:
* It's a good idea to keep sand, grit and grass clippings off walkways outside entries to prevent inward tracking of these abrasive soils.
* Purchase a properly sized entry mat (the bigger the better, but there must be room for at least two steps to sufficiently wipe soil from feet before encountering the installed carpet). Nylon face, vinyl back for better moisture and oils absorption, combined with the resiliency necessary to collect a quantity of particle soil. The IICRC suggests a rental mat, since that guarantees frequent maintenance. Place entry mats on hard surfaces rather than on carpet where they can trap moisture or cause plasticizer migration.
* Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum; daily, especially after major events. The sooner you collect soils from the surface, the easier it is to remove them. For most carpet, you should use an upright vacuum with brush agitation, unless your canister vacuum is particularly well designed. The wider the head, the more efficient.
* Use high-efficiency double-lined poly-fiber collection bags. This reduces periodic maintenance such as dusting of furniture, Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) filter exchange.
* Typically, deep cleaning should be accomplished on at least a semi-annual basis, with no more than two entry and high-traffic area "rinse" cleanings between the deep cleaning. This is dependent on traffic and daily maintenance as well. At a minimum, some attention should be given to primary entry areas on a quarterly basis.
* If spots are treated immediately, most will respond with plain warm water and very little mild detergent added.
* Make sure the HVAC system is slightly positively pressurized as well (air going out when doors are opened, rather than being sucked in). Proper air exchange rates can be calibrated according to ASHRAE regulations for the building with a trained HVAC contractor.
* Ensure proper air filtration through the HVAC System. High-efficiency pleated filters, rather than inexpensive fiberglass filters, are recommended.
The following steps should be taken when dealing with carpet in a high-traffic area:
* It's a good idea to keep sand, grit and grass clippings off walkways outside entries to prevent inward tracking of these abrasive soils.
* Purchase a properly sized entry mat (the bigger the better, but there must be room for at least two steps to sufficiently wipe soil from feet before encountering the installed carpet). Nylon face, vinyl back for better moisture and oils absorption, combined with the resiliency necessary to collect a quantity of particle soil. The IICRC suggests a rental mat, since that guarantees frequent maintenance. Place entry mats on hard surfaces rather than on carpet where they can trap moisture or cause plasticizer migration.
* Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum; daily, especially after major events. The sooner you collect soils from the surface, the easier it is to remove them. For most carpet, you should use an upright vacuum with brush agitation, unless your canister vacuum is particularly well designed. The wider the head, the more efficient.
* Use high-efficiency double-lined poly-fiber collection bags. This reduces periodic maintenance such as dusting of furniture, Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) filter exchange.
* Typically, deep cleaning should be accomplished on at least a semi-annual basis, with no more than two entry and high-traffic area "rinse" cleanings between the deep cleaning. This is dependent on traffic and daily maintenance as well. At a minimum, some attention should be given to primary entry areas on a quarterly basis.
* If spots are treated immediately, most will respond with plain warm water and very little mild detergent added.
* Make sure the HVAC system is slightly positively pressurized as well (air going out when doors are opened, rather than being sucked in). Proper air exchange rates can be calibrated according to ASHRAE regulations for the building with a trained HVAC contractor.
* Ensure proper air filtration through the HVAC System. High-efficiency pleated filters, rather than inexpensive fiberglass filters, are recommended.
How often should I get my carpets cleaned?
This material below was provided by IICRC.org.
Frequently used carpet should be professionally cleaned by a qualified technician at least annually - perhaps a little longer interval for infrequently used carpet and even sooner for carpet in homes occupied by respiratory sensitive or allergic persons; or in homes with indoor pets.
The following chart from the IICRC S100 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Carpet Cleaning serves as a guideline for recommending cleaning frequencies for carpet. They consider traffic, soil rating, vacuuming schedules, spot cleaning schedules, and professional interim and restorative cleaning.
(Click on the Image below to view cleaning schedule):
Frequently used carpet should be professionally cleaned by a qualified technician at least annually - perhaps a little longer interval for infrequently used carpet and even sooner for carpet in homes occupied by respiratory sensitive or allergic persons; or in homes with indoor pets.
The following chart from the IICRC S100 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Carpet Cleaning serves as a guideline for recommending cleaning frequencies for carpet. They consider traffic, soil rating, vacuuming schedules, spot cleaning schedules, and professional interim and restorative cleaning.
(Click on the Image below to view cleaning schedule):
Tuesday
Caring for Your Hardwood Floors
Floor Care and Maintenance
By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your floor. The following are examples of the reasonable and necessary maintenance you should to perform.
* Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
* Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products.
* NEVER wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties. The use of the dry Swiffer® sweeper by Procter & Gamble or another similar product is highly recommended. Do not use hardwood floor cleaning machines.
* The use of approved maintenance and floor-care products, including but not limited to Bona X Swedish Formula Hardwood Flooring Cleaner and Basic Coating Squeaky Hardwood Floor Cleaner, is highly recommended.
* IMPORTANT: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products, or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, silicon or ammonia since these warranties do not cover damage caused by non-recommended products. Use of these and other such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor and may also affect its recoat ability.
* Keep pets' nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil and stains.
* Place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents.
* Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture or appliances.
* Make certain furniture casters are clean and operate properly (a minimum 1" width is recommended).
* Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on floor.
* Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the stain and/or wood to fade and/or to change color. We recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. These warranties do not cover damage from the sun and its UV rays.
* Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g., stair landings, room entries, etc.), especially if you have a large family or indoor pets.
* Place mats on both sides of doors leading out of the house. These mats will help catch dirt, sand and other materials that may damage your floor.
Information in this article can be found at Andersonfloors.com
By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your floor. The following are examples of the reasonable and necessary maintenance you should to perform.
* Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
* Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products.
* NEVER wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties. The use of the dry Swiffer® sweeper by Procter & Gamble or another similar product is highly recommended. Do not use hardwood floor cleaning machines.
* The use of approved maintenance and floor-care products, including but not limited to Bona X Swedish Formula Hardwood Flooring Cleaner and Basic Coating Squeaky Hardwood Floor Cleaner, is highly recommended.
* IMPORTANT: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products, or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, silicon or ammonia since these warranties do not cover damage caused by non-recommended products. Use of these and other such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor and may also affect its recoat ability.
* Keep pets' nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil and stains.
* Place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents.
* Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture or appliances.
* Make certain furniture casters are clean and operate properly (a minimum 1" width is recommended).
* Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on floor.
* Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the stain and/or wood to fade and/or to change color. We recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. These warranties do not cover damage from the sun and its UV rays.
* Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g., stair landings, room entries, etc.), especially if you have a large family or indoor pets.
* Place mats on both sides of doors leading out of the house. These mats will help catch dirt, sand and other materials that may damage your floor.
Information in this article can be found at Andersonfloors.com
Troubleshooting Common Carpet Issues
We found this great article from the The Carpet and Rug Institute
Texture surface retention
Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.
Crushing
Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce crushing that results from traffic. Manufacturers’ definitions of crushing may vary.
Depressions or indentations
The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.
Fading or color loss
Give your carpet the normal protection from direct sunlight that you would give to any colored fabric. Emissions from heating systems or chemicals, such as pesticides, household cleaning agents and other household items, can also result in color loss.
Filtration soil
Filtration soil may appear as dark or grayish lines on carpet along walls, stairways and under doors. It is caused by airflow over and through carpet, allowing fine soils to settle on the surface. It is often caused by an improperly balanced ventilation system, when the volume of air entering a room exceeds the system’s capacity to remove air from the room. Excess air then seeks exit sources in gaps along walls and stairways. Prevent the airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing openings through the carpet and under doors and baseboards. Keeping the air in the area clean and using good filtration in your heating and cooling systems and vacuum cleaners can help. Filtration soils may require special cleaning treatment for effective removal. Contact a carpet-cleaning professional for assistance.
Fluffing and shedding
The balls of fluff, or loose fibers, found on carpet or in the vacuum cleaner bag are the normal result of fiber left in the carpet from the manufacturing process. Removing these loose fibers does not affect carpet life or appearance. Because of their large size, these fibers are too big to become airborne or to be breathed in. With proper vacuuming and using a quality vacuum cleaner, most shedding gradually disappears within the first year after installation.
Matting
Manufacturers’ definitions of matting may vary. Matting is usually the result of the untwisting of the yarn and the intermingling of the yarn tips through foot traffic. Matting may be caused by various factors, including an improperly specified cushion, cushion failure, or improper maintenance. Matting is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty.
Moth, beetle and flea control
Most wool and wool-blend carpet made in the United States is permanently treated to prevent moth damage. Carpet and rugs of manufactured (synthetic) fibers are naturally resistant to insects, because such fibers are not a food source and are resistant to beetles, commonly called carpet beetles. However, beetles already in the home may lay eggs in the carpet pile and hatch in 8 to 15 days. Pet owners also may find fleas on their carpet. Fleas will not damage the carpet and will die there, unless they find another animal to sustain them. Frequent vacuuming aids in the control of fleas on carpet; just be sure to change the vacuum bag often. For assistance in removing beetles or other insects, contact a professional pest control specialist.
Odor
During and immediately following the installation of your new carpet, there may be a slight odor, which may result from the removal of your old carpet and cushion or from the new carpet, cushion, adhesives or seaming tape. Ventilation with fresh air is recommended. Ideally, windows and doors should be opened, and the HVAC system should be operated at maximum capacity for 48 to 72 hours.
Soiling
Maintain the beauty of your carpet by cleaning it regularly before it becomes excessively soiled. Dirty, airborne particles may be deposited on carpet, causing dulling. Dulling is caused by the deposits of all types of soil. For example, a delicate rose color may gradually become a neutral taupe because of soil, while light blue may take on a dull, gray-green hue. Red clay soil also can cause a pronounced change in some colors. In spite of such phenomena, the original color of a carpet is not lost; it is still present under the soil. Oily soil may be very difficult to remove after it has been on the carpet for a long time, and it may be actually absorbed into the fiber, causing the carpet to have a yellow cast. Frequent cleanings are important to avoid this problem. Entry mats at doorways trap soil, and combined with routine cleaning and vacuuming, provide extra protection for all floor coverings.
Sprouting
Occasionally, a yarn tuft will rise above the pile surface of a carpet. Just snip off these tufts to the level of the other tufts. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT. If this problem persists in a localized area, contact your flooring contractor or manufacturer’s representative.
Stain-resistant carpet
Almost all carpet manufactured today has finishes that make it more stain- and soil-resistant, but no carpet is entirely stainproof. It still requires care. Remove spots and spills promptly. If spills or soils are allowed to remain, they may become permanent. Call the phone number normally found on the carpet warranty to obtain specific information about cleaning the carpet.
Topical treatments
Topical treatments include soil retardants, stain repellents, antistatic treatments and deodorizers. The use of after-market, topical treatments without the express approval of the carpet manufacturer prior to application may void applicable warranties.
Wear
Most carpet manufacturers offer “wear” warranties of various time lengths. According to these warranties, “wear” is defined as the loss of pile weight or pile fiber (usually 10 percent) due to abrasive loss of fiber by weight. What appears to be wear, or pile fiber loss, may actually be matting, crushing or permanent fiber damage caused by soiling rather than loss of fiber. There is seldom actual loss of pile fiber. (See also Matting, Crushing.)
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles in carpet are most often caused by a failure to stretch the carpet correctly using a power stretcher, the use of an incorrect or failed cushion, or excessive temperature and/or humidity. Ripples can be caused by a combination of any of the above. If ripples or buckles develop, consult your carpet retailer. Generally, the problem can be corrected by a qualified carpet installer who reinstalls the carpet with a power stretcher.
Texture surface retention
Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.
Crushing
Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce crushing that results from traffic. Manufacturers’ definitions of crushing may vary.
Depressions or indentations
The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.
Fading or color loss
Give your carpet the normal protection from direct sunlight that you would give to any colored fabric. Emissions from heating systems or chemicals, such as pesticides, household cleaning agents and other household items, can also result in color loss.
Filtration soil
Filtration soil may appear as dark or grayish lines on carpet along walls, stairways and under doors. It is caused by airflow over and through carpet, allowing fine soils to settle on the surface. It is often caused by an improperly balanced ventilation system, when the volume of air entering a room exceeds the system’s capacity to remove air from the room. Excess air then seeks exit sources in gaps along walls and stairways. Prevent the airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing openings through the carpet and under doors and baseboards. Keeping the air in the area clean and using good filtration in your heating and cooling systems and vacuum cleaners can help. Filtration soils may require special cleaning treatment for effective removal. Contact a carpet-cleaning professional for assistance.
Fluffing and shedding
The balls of fluff, or loose fibers, found on carpet or in the vacuum cleaner bag are the normal result of fiber left in the carpet from the manufacturing process. Removing these loose fibers does not affect carpet life or appearance. Because of their large size, these fibers are too big to become airborne or to be breathed in. With proper vacuuming and using a quality vacuum cleaner, most shedding gradually disappears within the first year after installation.
Matting
Manufacturers’ definitions of matting may vary. Matting is usually the result of the untwisting of the yarn and the intermingling of the yarn tips through foot traffic. Matting may be caused by various factors, including an improperly specified cushion, cushion failure, or improper maintenance. Matting is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty.
Moth, beetle and flea control
Most wool and wool-blend carpet made in the United States is permanently treated to prevent moth damage. Carpet and rugs of manufactured (synthetic) fibers are naturally resistant to insects, because such fibers are not a food source and are resistant to beetles, commonly called carpet beetles. However, beetles already in the home may lay eggs in the carpet pile and hatch in 8 to 15 days. Pet owners also may find fleas on their carpet. Fleas will not damage the carpet and will die there, unless they find another animal to sustain them. Frequent vacuuming aids in the control of fleas on carpet; just be sure to change the vacuum bag often. For assistance in removing beetles or other insects, contact a professional pest control specialist.
Odor
During and immediately following the installation of your new carpet, there may be a slight odor, which may result from the removal of your old carpet and cushion or from the new carpet, cushion, adhesives or seaming tape. Ventilation with fresh air is recommended. Ideally, windows and doors should be opened, and the HVAC system should be operated at maximum capacity for 48 to 72 hours.
Soiling
Maintain the beauty of your carpet by cleaning it regularly before it becomes excessively soiled. Dirty, airborne particles may be deposited on carpet, causing dulling. Dulling is caused by the deposits of all types of soil. For example, a delicate rose color may gradually become a neutral taupe because of soil, while light blue may take on a dull, gray-green hue. Red clay soil also can cause a pronounced change in some colors. In spite of such phenomena, the original color of a carpet is not lost; it is still present under the soil. Oily soil may be very difficult to remove after it has been on the carpet for a long time, and it may be actually absorbed into the fiber, causing the carpet to have a yellow cast. Frequent cleanings are important to avoid this problem. Entry mats at doorways trap soil, and combined with routine cleaning and vacuuming, provide extra protection for all floor coverings.
Sprouting
Occasionally, a yarn tuft will rise above the pile surface of a carpet. Just snip off these tufts to the level of the other tufts. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT. If this problem persists in a localized area, contact your flooring contractor or manufacturer’s representative.
Stain-resistant carpet
Almost all carpet manufactured today has finishes that make it more stain- and soil-resistant, but no carpet is entirely stainproof. It still requires care. Remove spots and spills promptly. If spills or soils are allowed to remain, they may become permanent. Call the phone number normally found on the carpet warranty to obtain specific information about cleaning the carpet.
Topical treatments
Topical treatments include soil retardants, stain repellents, antistatic treatments and deodorizers. The use of after-market, topical treatments without the express approval of the carpet manufacturer prior to application may void applicable warranties.
Wear
Most carpet manufacturers offer “wear” warranties of various time lengths. According to these warranties, “wear” is defined as the loss of pile weight or pile fiber (usually 10 percent) due to abrasive loss of fiber by weight. What appears to be wear, or pile fiber loss, may actually be matting, crushing or permanent fiber damage caused by soiling rather than loss of fiber. There is seldom actual loss of pile fiber. (See also Matting, Crushing.)
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles in carpet are most often caused by a failure to stretch the carpet correctly using a power stretcher, the use of an incorrect or failed cushion, or excessive temperature and/or humidity. Ripples can be caused by a combination of any of the above. If ripples or buckles develop, consult your carpet retailer. Generally, the problem can be corrected by a qualified carpet installer who reinstalls the carpet with a power stretcher.
Monday
Remove Water Stains from Carpet
If you have a small water stain on your carpet check out the video below on how to remove the stain.
Carpet Ghosts
Great tip from Marthastewart.com on how to remove "carpet ghosts."
Carpet ghosts are those little indentations left behind when a piece of furniture has been resting in one place for a long time. If you're looking for a simple and efficient way to eliminate them, simply place ice cubes where the carpet has been crushed or matted. The fibers of the carpet will swell as they absorb the water. Once the ice cubes have melted, just blot the wet area with a dry towel, and vacuum the carpet to straighten out the fibers. Voila! Carpet ghosts are gone. Don't forget to use your Lift Buddy when cleaning moving furniture
Carpet ghosts are those little indentations left behind when a piece of furniture has been resting in one place for a long time. If you're looking for a simple and efficient way to eliminate them, simply place ice cubes where the carpet has been crushed or matted. The fibers of the carpet will swell as they absorb the water. Once the ice cubes have melted, just blot the wet area with a dry towel, and vacuum the carpet to straighten out the fibers. Voila! Carpet ghosts are gone. Don't forget to use your Lift Buddy when cleaning moving furniture
Sunday
Healthy Floor Tips
This article about Healthy Floor Tips can be found at marthastewart.com
If you're looking for new flooring (or considering refinishing your old parquet), it's important to choose nontoxic, durable materials. While popular and inexpensive, petroleum-based polyvinyl chloride (PVC) flooring, bought rolled or in tiles, and laminates (which may contain wood pulp or wood chips) can pose a host of health and environmental problems. But even "green" options aren't always so healthful. Bamboo flooring, for example, is made from fast-growing, sustainable bamboo, but it's also frequently produced with adhesives containing formaldehyde. Hardwood, such as oak, is routinely sealed with oil-based polyurethane, a respiratory irritant. Recycled-rubber flooring sounds great, but can be made from old tires, and often has a strong odor. It pays to know what's underfoot.
Careful
If price limits you to wood laminates, look for those with low-VOC emissions. Borrow a couple of boards from a retailer and keep them in your living room. Does the smell bother you? If so, check out other brands. You may find some natural-wood flooring at a competitive price. Make sure any sealants on your floors are water-based and contain no or few VOCs. Although stone and tile aren't renewable, they're good choices for floors exposed to a lot of sunlight because they will slowly release the heat they absorb into your home. If you're interested in rubber flooring, look for natural -- not synthetic -- rubber, and make sure it's free of contaminants and chlorine.
More Careful
Always ask your retailer about the flooring -- the manufacturer should supply information about its sustainability. Look for products made from renewable resources, such as cork, palm, or bamboo. Buy only brands that use no- or low-VOC adhesives. You can also purchase true linoleum that is made with cork and linseed oil. TheFSC) certifies hardwood flooring that comes from managed forests (look for the FSC seal). It's best to have wood prefinished at the factory, so that you don't have to seal it at home.
Most Careful
Consider refinishing the flooring you already have. Wood floors can be lightly machine-sanded (wear a mask and gloves) and coated with a water-based sealant. Earthpaing carries many wood finishes. Another eco-friendly option is reclaimed wood, which may have had a former life, and in some cases can be of an even higher quality than the new wood flooring you'll find in stores. If you decide to replace flooring that's in decent shape, ask your contractor if he or she knows a vendor who might be interested in purchasing the wood (or just taking it off your hands), so it can be put to use again.
If you're looking for new flooring (or considering refinishing your old parquet), it's important to choose nontoxic, durable materials. While popular and inexpensive, petroleum-based polyvinyl chloride (PVC) flooring, bought rolled or in tiles, and laminates (which may contain wood pulp or wood chips) can pose a host of health and environmental problems. But even "green" options aren't always so healthful. Bamboo flooring, for example, is made from fast-growing, sustainable bamboo, but it's also frequently produced with adhesives containing formaldehyde. Hardwood, such as oak, is routinely sealed with oil-based polyurethane, a respiratory irritant. Recycled-rubber flooring sounds great, but can be made from old tires, and often has a strong odor. It pays to know what's underfoot.
Careful
If price limits you to wood laminates, look for those with low-VOC emissions. Borrow a couple of boards from a retailer and keep them in your living room. Does the smell bother you? If so, check out other brands. You may find some natural-wood flooring at a competitive price. Make sure any sealants on your floors are water-based and contain no or few VOCs. Although stone and tile aren't renewable, they're good choices for floors exposed to a lot of sunlight because they will slowly release the heat they absorb into your home. If you're interested in rubber flooring, look for natural -- not synthetic -- rubber, and make sure it's free of contaminants and chlorine.
More Careful
Always ask your retailer about the flooring -- the manufacturer should supply information about its sustainability. Look for products made from renewable resources, such as cork, palm, or bamboo. Buy only brands that use no- or low-VOC adhesives. You can also purchase true linoleum that is made with cork and linseed oil. TheFSC) certifies hardwood flooring that comes from managed forests (look for the FSC seal). It's best to have wood prefinished at the factory, so that you don't have to seal it at home.
Most Careful
Consider refinishing the flooring you already have. Wood floors can be lightly machine-sanded (wear a mask and gloves) and coated with a water-based sealant. Earthpaing carries many wood finishes. Another eco-friendly option is reclaimed wood, which may have had a former life, and in some cases can be of an even higher quality than the new wood flooring you'll find in stores. If you decide to replace flooring that's in decent shape, ask your contractor if he or she knows a vendor who might be interested in purchasing the wood (or just taking it off your hands), so it can be put to use again.
Upholstry Cleaning
As professional carpet cleaners, we spend a lot of time on our blog talking about carpet care for your floor and have neglected to mention upholstery care. Furniture can be a major investment and maintaining an upholstery cleaning schedule is necessary to keep your furniture looking clean and well maintained for years to come.
Busy schedules most often prevents people from spending time properly cleaning their furniture and drapes. If so, we recommend hiring a professional upholstery cleaning company every 6-12 months to properly maintain and manage your upholstery needs. For others, who have the time, the following are ways to safely clean furniture.
As with carpet, regular vacuuming is necessary. This is to prevent, dust, dirt, grease and oils from getting trapped deeply within the fibers giving your furniture an old, grungy and worn look before it's time.
Prior to vacuuming, make sure to search cushions and remove loose coins, threads, kid toys, and/or other items that will clog and possibly damage your vacuum.
It is always best to use the soft brush attachment, standard to most vacuums. If you use the soft brush for other parts of the house, you might consider purchasing an extra brush for upholstery so as not to transfer dirt onto the upholstery. The crevice tool should be utilized to remove crumbs and dirt that fall in between the cracks of your upholstery.
We recommend that you vacuum upholstery at least once a week.Every 6-12 months it will become necessary to clean your upholstery. Due to the wide range in upholstery fabrics, make sure to read the instructions and purchase the cleaning product that is right for your upholstery.
Also, to help prevent future stains and to make life much easier, we recommend finding an upholstery cleaner that contains "soil retardant". After you purchase your cleaning product, always test the cleaning product on an small, hidden area of the upholstery to look for possible fabric discoloration.
If your furniture is being protected by slip covers always remove them before cleaning any spots to avoid damage to the fabric underneath.
Always clean stains and spills with a soft, white cotton cloth. As with carpet, remember to blot not rub stains. Remove as much of the stain as possible, then treat whatever stain remains.
If you are unable to remove the stain is it always best to call a professional upholstery cleaning company to remove the stain.
Saturday
Remove Red Wine from your Carpet
We found this wonderful video that demonstrates the best way to remove red wine from your carpet!!
Friday
Tip for Removing Cat Urine from Carpet
Pet odor is one of the biggest problems we encounter. The video below is a great tip for removing cat odor from your carpet.
How to Clean Hardwood Floors
Great video on how to clean hardwood floors! Don't forget to purchase your Caution Sign to protect the ones you love from injury!
Thursday
Removing stains from Oriental Rugs
Coffee, soda, wine, nail polish and pet urine are all likely candidates for rug stains. You've probably encountered at least one of these stains on your rugs in the past. Removing spills and stains from plain carpeting is difficult enough, but stains on Oriental rugs require special removal methods.
1. Remove as much of the stain from your Oriental rug as soon as possible. If you wait too long, the stain will set, making it harder to remove and possibly damaging your rug.
2. Press the stain with a soft, white, absorbent cloth such as a towel or napkin. Keep blotting until you've soaked as much of the liquid as possible.
3. Dilute the spill with water. Use enough to wet the stain but not to soak the rug.
4. Continue blotting with a white cloth to remove as much of the diluted stain as possible.
5. Use a solution of 1 tablespoon of distilled white vinegar per 1 cup of water to dilute pet urine stains. As with other stains, keep blotting until you remove as much of the liquid as possible.
6. Consider taking your rug to a professional Oriental rug cleaner as soon as you can if you just can't get the stain out yourself. You want to preserve your rug as best as you can.
Other tips and techniques:
Once set, pet urine begins to change the chemical composition of rug dyes, so try to check your Oriental rugs often if your pet frequently urinates on your floors.
If you notice an old stain on your Oriental rug, vacuum first before removing the stain in the same way as you would a new stain.
Don't rub stains on Oriental rugs, as this only spreads them around. Remember to blot instead.
Don't use spot removers made for wall-to-wall carpeting on Oriental rugs. They'll damage the rug's wool pile.
Don't use urine removers containing enzymes on Oriental rugs, as they feed on wool.
This article was provided by Ehow.com
1. Remove as much of the stain from your Oriental rug as soon as possible. If you wait too long, the stain will set, making it harder to remove and possibly damaging your rug.
2. Press the stain with a soft, white, absorbent cloth such as a towel or napkin. Keep blotting until you've soaked as much of the liquid as possible.
3. Dilute the spill with water. Use enough to wet the stain but not to soak the rug.
4. Continue blotting with a white cloth to remove as much of the diluted stain as possible.
5. Use a solution of 1 tablespoon of distilled white vinegar per 1 cup of water to dilute pet urine stains. As with other stains, keep blotting until you remove as much of the liquid as possible.
6. Consider taking your rug to a professional Oriental rug cleaner as soon as you can if you just can't get the stain out yourself. You want to preserve your rug as best as you can.
Other tips and techniques:
Once set, pet urine begins to change the chemical composition of rug dyes, so try to check your Oriental rugs often if your pet frequently urinates on your floors.
If you notice an old stain on your Oriental rug, vacuum first before removing the stain in the same way as you would a new stain.
Don't rub stains on Oriental rugs, as this only spreads them around. Remember to blot instead.
Don't use spot removers made for wall-to-wall carpeting on Oriental rugs. They'll damage the rug's wool pile.
Don't use urine removers containing enzymes on Oriental rugs, as they feed on wool.
This article was provided by Ehow.com
Removing Scuff Marks from Walls
"Do you have the scuff marks on your wall?? Tired of frequently painting walls to remove them? Try the Wall Buddy to protect your walls from scuff marks.
To Remove Scuff Marks From Walls
1. Try removing the scuff from the wall as soon as it happens, using a large pencil eraser first. While it may take several tries, see if the scuff mark relents at all
2. If the scuff mark doesn't start to disappear, use a soft-heeled shoe like a flat orthopedic shoe, on the wall in the reverse way the scuff was made. Try using a test piece of the scuff first before spreading it across the entire abrasion of the wall. Sometimes, the rubber can act as an eraser or other times it can make it worse. So use with caution.
3. Using a wet washcloth or sponge, scrub the wall for about 30 seconds to see if the scuff begins to disappear. Usually, if a wall is easy to scuff, it will be easily cleaned with water. Another hint this tip will work is if the wall paint feels gritty but does not have a gritty composition.
4.Use a small amount of non-abrasive soap on the wall, with your wet sponge. Sometimes, a little soap on flat paint or semi-gloss will remove the scuff mark without removing the paint.
5. If you have a textured wall or ceiling, gently use a wet Brillo pad instead of a washcloth for wall-washing.
If none of these tips works, chances are have a deeper scratch instead of a wall scuff. This can best be fixed by painting or calling a maintenance professional.
If you have another color under your paint, be very careful while scrubbing as it may reveal itself. Also be aware if paint comes off on your sponge, washcloth, or Brillo pad as this may make paint lighter in that particular area from now on."
To prevent black marks from hoses of the vacuum and other cords pulled around in your home, use the Wall Buddy
Information provided by Ehow.com
To Remove Scuff Marks From Walls
1. Try removing the scuff from the wall as soon as it happens, using a large pencil eraser first. While it may take several tries, see if the scuff mark relents at all
2. If the scuff mark doesn't start to disappear, use a soft-heeled shoe like a flat orthopedic shoe, on the wall in the reverse way the scuff was made. Try using a test piece of the scuff first before spreading it across the entire abrasion of the wall. Sometimes, the rubber can act as an eraser or other times it can make it worse. So use with caution.
3. Using a wet washcloth or sponge, scrub the wall for about 30 seconds to see if the scuff begins to disappear. Usually, if a wall is easy to scuff, it will be easily cleaned with water. Another hint this tip will work is if the wall paint feels gritty but does not have a gritty composition.
4.Use a small amount of non-abrasive soap on the wall, with your wet sponge. Sometimes, a little soap on flat paint or semi-gloss will remove the scuff mark without removing the paint.
5. If you have a textured wall or ceiling, gently use a wet Brillo pad instead of a washcloth for wall-washing.
If none of these tips works, chances are have a deeper scratch instead of a wall scuff. This can best be fixed by painting or calling a maintenance professional.
If you have another color under your paint, be very careful while scrubbing as it may reveal itself. Also be aware if paint comes off on your sponge, washcloth, or Brillo pad as this may make paint lighter in that particular area from now on."
To prevent black marks from hoses of the vacuum and other cords pulled around in your home, use the Wall Buddy
Information provided by Ehow.com
Wednesday
What to Know Before Buying Carpet
Continued from "What to Know Before Buying Carpet" on marthastewart.com
A carpet's appearance, texture, and longevity also are determined by its fibers. The pile can be natural, synthetic, or a blend of several fibers.
Wool is strong, static-resistant, and pleasing to the touch.
What to know: It is the fiber that most synthetic fibers are meant to imitate, and it is more costly than those materials. Wool is resilient and also naturally stain-resistant and flame-retardant. Note that a wool carpet will shed a bit initially.
Silk carpet is largely produced in India, China, and Turkey.
What to know: Carpets made from silk are soft and luxurious. Silk dyes better and is more durable than any other fiber. Because of silk's high cost, the fiber is often blended with wool.
Cotton carpeting was popular in the United States before World War II. Today, it's made almost exclusively in Belgium.
What to know: Cotton carpet, like cotton clothing, wears well and has a natural feel. A magnet for dust and dirt, it should not be used in high-traffic areas.
Linen yarn is made from flax. Most linen carpeting is produced in France and Belgium (the latter is generally considered the better quality).
What to know: Linen carpet is lustrous and can help absorb humidity. However, it can be quite costly, and with age, linen carpet will reveal traffic patterns.
Sisal comes from the agave plant; the highest-quality fibers are from East Africa.
What to know: Sisal is strong (second only to wool). It is one of the more pricey plant fibers. Sisal is particularly prone to fading in direct sunlight and can be stained even by water.
Jute flooring is made from the jute plant, which also is used to make burlap and twine.
What to know: Jute is softer than sisal but also less durable. Like sisal, it can be damaged easily by sunlight and liquids.
Coir is the fiber taken from the hairy husk of coconuts.
What to know: Coir is durable, wiry, and mildew-resistant. In other words, coir makes the perfect doormat.
Sea grass carpet is made from a variety of reedy plants and has a greenish tint.
What to know: Although durable, sea grass carpets are not very absorbent; they should not be used in moist or humid rooms. Sea grass costs less than sisal and jute.
Paper carpet is made from paper cords coated in a protective wax.
What to know: Paper carpet is, in fact, quite strong. It is more water-resistant than carpets made from other plant fibers, but liquid spills should still be blotted immediately.
Polyester has a wool-like appearance and is often used for cut-pile carpets. It dyes well, so it's available in a range of vibrant colors.
What to know: Polyester carpet is soft, stain-resistant, and affordable. It's not as resilient as other carpet fibers, and may mat down in a short period.
Olefin is a glossy synthetic fiber usually sold in muted colors.
What to know:Olefin is one of the less expensive synthetics. Water-and stain-resistant, it's often used outdoors. However, the fiber crushes easily.
Nylon is the most popular carpet fiber in the United States.
What to know: Nylon is durable, resilient, and stain-resistant. It is one of the more expensive synthetic fibers. The fiber comes in many hues; look for solution-dyed nylon, which is colorfast
From Martha Stewart Living, September 2005
A carpet's appearance, texture, and longevity also are determined by its fibers. The pile can be natural, synthetic, or a blend of several fibers.
Wool is strong, static-resistant, and pleasing to the touch.
What to know: It is the fiber that most synthetic fibers are meant to imitate, and it is more costly than those materials. Wool is resilient and also naturally stain-resistant and flame-retardant. Note that a wool carpet will shed a bit initially.
Silk carpet is largely produced in India, China, and Turkey.
What to know: Carpets made from silk are soft and luxurious. Silk dyes better and is more durable than any other fiber. Because of silk's high cost, the fiber is often blended with wool.
Cotton carpeting was popular in the United States before World War II. Today, it's made almost exclusively in Belgium.
What to know: Cotton carpet, like cotton clothing, wears well and has a natural feel. A magnet for dust and dirt, it should not be used in high-traffic areas.
Linen yarn is made from flax. Most linen carpeting is produced in France and Belgium (the latter is generally considered the better quality).
What to know: Linen carpet is lustrous and can help absorb humidity. However, it can be quite costly, and with age, linen carpet will reveal traffic patterns.
Sisal comes from the agave plant; the highest-quality fibers are from East Africa.
What to know: Sisal is strong (second only to wool). It is one of the more pricey plant fibers. Sisal is particularly prone to fading in direct sunlight and can be stained even by water.
Jute flooring is made from the jute plant, which also is used to make burlap and twine.
What to know: Jute is softer than sisal but also less durable. Like sisal, it can be damaged easily by sunlight and liquids.
Coir is the fiber taken from the hairy husk of coconuts.
What to know: Coir is durable, wiry, and mildew-resistant. In other words, coir makes the perfect doormat.
Sea grass carpet is made from a variety of reedy plants and has a greenish tint.
What to know: Although durable, sea grass carpets are not very absorbent; they should not be used in moist or humid rooms. Sea grass costs less than sisal and jute.
Paper carpet is made from paper cords coated in a protective wax.
What to know: Paper carpet is, in fact, quite strong. It is more water-resistant than carpets made from other plant fibers, but liquid spills should still be blotted immediately.
Polyester has a wool-like appearance and is often used for cut-pile carpets. It dyes well, so it's available in a range of vibrant colors.
What to know: Polyester carpet is soft, stain-resistant, and affordable. It's not as resilient as other carpet fibers, and may mat down in a short period.
Olefin is a glossy synthetic fiber usually sold in muted colors.
What to know:Olefin is one of the less expensive synthetics. Water-and stain-resistant, it's often used outdoors. However, the fiber crushes easily.
Nylon is the most popular carpet fiber in the United States.
What to know: Nylon is durable, resilient, and stain-resistant. It is one of the more expensive synthetic fibers. The fiber comes in many hues; look for solution-dyed nylon, which is colorfast
From Martha Stewart Living, September 2005
What to Know Before Buying Carpets
Continued from What to Know Before Buying Carpet from marthastewart.com
How a carpet's pile is cut and shaped contributes to its look and feel -- short or shaggy, soft or nubby -- and to how well the product wears.
How a carpet's pile is cut and shaped contributes to its look and feel -- short or shaggy, soft or nubby -- and to how well the product wears.
Sisal-like carpets are meant to imitate the look of sisal or other plant fibers and are made from wool or a synthetic.
What to know: These mimics are softer underfoot than the real thing, and they release stains better. However, many people prefer the appearance of real sisal.
Wilton is considered the premier woven carpet. It is made on a jacquard loom and can have cut, loop, or cut-and-loop pile.
What to know: These carpets are tightly constructed, making them dense and durable. Worsted-wool Wiltons are some of the best carpets available.
Saxony carpet yarns have a soft twist or curl; the pile is often cut at an angle.
What to know: Saxony is not quite as textured as frieze but it still effectively conceals marks, making the carpet a popular choice for children's rooms and family rooms.
Velvet carpet is soft, like the fabric for which it's named. The pile is short, uniform, and dense.
What to know: The carpet has a matte finish, giving it an understated appeal. Velvet pile generally holds up well but, like plush, its uniform surface exposes indentations and tracks.
Frieze is a cut-pile carpet with twisted yarns and a crimped, textured appearance.
What to know: The twisted strands of a frieze carpet obscure footprints and vacuum marks well, and the tousled look complements an informal room.
Shag has pile so long it doesn't stand upright, giving a carpet a "shaggy" look.
What to know: No longer just a throwback to the 1960s and '70s, today's shags come in contemporary colors and have an inviting feel. But those long yarns can still get caught in the rotating head of a vacuum.
Axminster is a cut-pile carpet that is woven by definition. It is often called "pub carpet," a reference to the carpet's frequent appearance in restaurants and hotels.
What to know: Axminster tends to be the most affordable of the woven carpets and is available in a wide range of colors. Like a Wilton, it is long-wearing. But it is not as refined and may appear industrial.
Berber once referred specifically to an undyed Moroccan rug. Today the term is used broadly to describe most loop-pile carpets.
What to know: Because loop pile has no exposed tips (unlike cut pile), it is especially durable. This makes berber a good choice for high-traffic areas, such as family rooms, hallways, and staircases.
Ribbed cut can be a cut-and-loop pile or a cut-pile carpet that is trimmed in areas to create carved designs; it may also have color variations throughout.
What to know: Because its textured surface can camouflage marks and stains, ribbed cut is another good choice for children's rooms or other high-traffic spaces.
Plush pile is cut to a smooth, level height. It is higher and less dense than velvet.
What to know: Plush carpet is comfortable underfoot, making it a cozy covering for a bedroom floor. But its pile is easily crushed, revealing indentations.
What to Know Before Buying Carpet
Great tips from Marthastewart.com on What to Know Before Buying Carpet.
A walk through the basics of choosing the perfect floor covering.
Carpet tends to be underfoot and out of mind. But when it's time to choose a new one, all thoughts turn to the floor. Here are the pros and cons of common carpet styles and fibers as well as a translation of some showroom lingo.
The carpets here can be installed wall to wall or ordered in a specific size with bound edges to be used as an area rug -- a good solution for large or oddly shaped rooms. (Specialty area rugs, such as Orientals, have their own considerations and are not included here.)
One of the first choices to make is between tufted and woven construction. Most carpets are tufted, consisting of rows of machine-punched yarns held together by adhesive and a backing. They generally last between five and seven years. Woven carpets, made on a loom, are known for their long life span -- 20 to 30 years. You'll pay significantly more for the higher quality. Most of the styles and fibers listed here are used for both woven and tufted carpet. So start looking -- and you're on your way to kicking off your shoes.
Get in the Loop
Identifying styles of pile -- the yarn that makes up a carpet -- becomes easy when you see samples up close. Pile is sheared for "cut pile" or left intact for "loop pile". A combination is called "cut-and-loop pile."
Dive into the Pile
Seeing and touching carpet samples will drive home their differences -- and your preferences. Pile heights include short velvet piles and longer plushes; deeper pile has a more luxurious feel, but short pile tends to be easier to care for. A carpet label is required by law to list fiber content and country of origin; some will include additional helpful details.
The Next Steps
As you shop, take the opportunity to ask questions, read labels, and find out how to install and maintain the carpet you buy.
Price and Particulars
Bear in mind that carpet is often priced per square yard, not square foot. (To calculate the price per square foot yourself, divide the price per yard by nine.) Be aware, too, that when you look at a carpet sample, the color might differ slightly from what would be delivered to your home. Consider asking for a roll-cut sample -- a piece of carpet cut from the lot you would actually purchase. This is particularly helpful when it comes to fibers with a tendency to fade, such as sisal or jute.
Padding
The pressure a carpet withstands results in crushed pile and ground-in dirt. Some of that can be alleviated by padding, which also absorbs sound. Not all paddings are suitable for all carpets, so ask before you buy. For instance, "hard" carpet, including those made from most plant fibers, can be damaged by ultra-cushiony padding (the space it creates invites shoe heels to puncture the carpet).
Installation
"Installing" an area rug is easy -- just be sure to lay down the proper padding first. But wall-to-wall can be quite tricky. To make sure carpet stays put and the seams are inconspicuous, leave the job to professionals. For large rooms, ask your retailer if the carpet you're buying will "seam well." No seam is invisible, but some carpets disguise them better than others.
Maintenance
Before cleaning, check the manufacturer's instructions. Cleaning methods for carpet vary by fiber, but a weekly once-over using a vacuum with good suction and a rotating head keeps many carpets looking their best. (For delicate carpets, such as hand-woven or hand-tufted, use a vacuum without a rotating head.) A professional can steam-clean synthetic and wool carpet, if needed.
Tuesday
Carpet Cleaning Tips
As carpet cleaning professionals we are always asked for tips on how to keep carpets looking great. That is why we have put together 5 basic tips to help keep your carpet looking clean and fresh.
Carpet Cleaning Tip 1 - Create a Schedule
Dust accumulation is the biggest culprit in giving carpets that old, grungy look. A regular vacuum and shampoo schedule helps to reduce the dust level in your carpet. We recommend a quick vacuum every day (at least in the heavy traffic areas)to remove dust and a shampoo every 6-12 months. Be sure to buy all supplies beforehand (vacuum bags and/or belts, shampoo).
The combination of these methods when done properly will remove oils, greases and whatever stains finds itself on your carpet.
Carpet Cleaning Tip 2 - Clean Spills Immediately.
The longer that you let spills and stains remain on your carpet the harder they are to clean. Take care of of spills and stains as soon as possible (For a stain guide chart, click here) before you're faced with a permanent stain on your carpet.
Carpet Cleaning Tip 3 - Use Mats at the Doorway
Doorways are the most heavily trafficked areas and should be protected with a mat. This will reduce the amount of dirt and dust that end up on your carpet, and hopefully throughout the house. Don't forget to regularly vacuum the mats.
4. Carpet Cleaning Tip 4 - Stock Up on Carpet Cleaning Supplies
Carpet cleaners can be mild or very strong. Always read the ingredients, and ventilate the room well when cleaning.
When using these products please read the manufactures instructions carefully and take the necessary precautions like wearing gloves and using goggles.
Carpet Cleaning Tip 5 - Hire a carpet cleaning professional
Let someone else worry about deep cleaning the carpets!
To choose a carpet cleaning professional be sure to ask for references. You shouldn't trust your carpet just anyone.
I hope that these tips are helpful to you and your carpet. Take good care them.
Benefits of Protecting your Floor with Carpet or Rugs
Having a hard time deciding what type of flooring to put into your home. Below is a list provided by the Carpet and Rug Institute on the Benefit of Carpets and Rugs.
Provides warmth and comfort
Carpet provides thermal resistance, or R-value. In colder climates or seasons, it retains warm air longer, an energy conservation benefit. Carpet provides a comfortable environment in which to work and gives a space an overall warmer feeling.
Adds beauty and style
You can choose from many thousands of carpet styles and colors. That means you can choose vibrant colors or heavier patterns and textures to represent a company’s corporate culture, or you can use a neutral foundation and calming colors to provide a good environment for healing or learning.
Cushions slips and falls
Carpet is ideal for cushioning our footsteps, reducing slips and falls and minimizing injuries when falls do occur. Carpet provides safety protection for everyone, but it is particularly helpful for youngsters at schools or the elderly at such facilities as hospitals or nursing homes.
Reduces noise
Many offices today have open area systems where phone conversations and frequent employee interactions can be distracting. Carpet helps increase employee productivity by absorbing sounds. Adding cushion beneath a carpet reduces noise even further. Carpet also works as a sound barrier between floors by helping to block sound transmission to spaces below. Plus, carpet on stairs helps mask the sound of constant foot traffic.
Maintains appearance
Carpet will maintain its life and beauty for many years when properly cleaned and maintained. However, it is important to follow carpet manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations for the type of carpet and application you have. Keep your carpet looking great over time by following these additional steps:
* Preventative maintenance — protect your investment before problems occur.
* Vacuuming — the single most effective way to keep carpet clean.
* Spot and stain removal — use CRI seal of Approval products.
* Professional deep cleaning — a periodic must.
Improves indoor air quality
Carpet helps improve IAQ by trapping allergens and other particles so they can be vacuumed away. Plus, carpet is the lowest VOC emitter of common floor choices, and requires fewer cleaning chemicals than other floor coverings.
Saves money over time
The sum of the initial cost of carpet, plus the maintenance costs over the total time of the life of the carpet, is usually less than hard surface flooring. Plus, cleaning carpet is less labor intensive. A survey of commerical buildings that had maintenance programs for hard surfaces and carpet demonstrated that carpet cost less to maintain. The study found that hard surface floors require two and one-half times more cleaning time than carpet, and cleaning supplies were about seven times more expensive for vinyl floors than for carpeted floors. While upfront purchase and installation costs are more expensive for carpet than hard flooring, carpet expenditures prove to be more cost-effective over the full life cycle of the product.
Provides warmth and comfort
Carpet provides thermal resistance, or R-value. In colder climates or seasons, it retains warm air longer, an energy conservation benefit. Carpet provides a comfortable environment in which to work and gives a space an overall warmer feeling.
Adds beauty and style
You can choose from many thousands of carpet styles and colors. That means you can choose vibrant colors or heavier patterns and textures to represent a company’s corporate culture, or you can use a neutral foundation and calming colors to provide a good environment for healing or learning.
Cushions slips and falls
Carpet is ideal for cushioning our footsteps, reducing slips and falls and minimizing injuries when falls do occur. Carpet provides safety protection for everyone, but it is particularly helpful for youngsters at schools or the elderly at such facilities as hospitals or nursing homes.
Reduces noise
Many offices today have open area systems where phone conversations and frequent employee interactions can be distracting. Carpet helps increase employee productivity by absorbing sounds. Adding cushion beneath a carpet reduces noise even further. Carpet also works as a sound barrier between floors by helping to block sound transmission to spaces below. Plus, carpet on stairs helps mask the sound of constant foot traffic.
Maintains appearance
Carpet will maintain its life and beauty for many years when properly cleaned and maintained. However, it is important to follow carpet manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations for the type of carpet and application you have. Keep your carpet looking great over time by following these additional steps:
* Preventative maintenance — protect your investment before problems occur.
* Vacuuming — the single most effective way to keep carpet clean.
* Spot and stain removal — use CRI seal of Approval products.
* Professional deep cleaning — a periodic must.
Improves indoor air quality
Carpet helps improve IAQ by trapping allergens and other particles so they can be vacuumed away. Plus, carpet is the lowest VOC emitter of common floor choices, and requires fewer cleaning chemicals than other floor coverings.
Saves money over time
The sum of the initial cost of carpet, plus the maintenance costs over the total time of the life of the carpet, is usually less than hard surface flooring. Plus, cleaning carpet is less labor intensive. A survey of commerical buildings that had maintenance programs for hard surfaces and carpet demonstrated that carpet cost less to maintain. The study found that hard surface floors require two and one-half times more cleaning time than carpet, and cleaning supplies were about seven times more expensive for vinyl floors than for carpeted floors. While upfront purchase and installation costs are more expensive for carpet than hard flooring, carpet expenditures prove to be more cost-effective over the full life cycle of the product.
Monday
Carpet Terms
We found this great article on carpet terms from the Carpet and Rug Institute. Check it out below to see how many terms you are familiar with and be sure to use them the next time you have your carpets professionally cleaned!
"CRI has listed some basic terminology below to help you become more educated when it comes to your carpet purchase and installation. Familiarizing yourself with these common carpet terms will help you communicate more effectively with your carpet retailer and installer, and it will help you make the most informed carpet decisions possible.
Antimicrobial — A chemical treatment added to carpet to reduce the growth of common bacteria, fungi, yeast, mold and mildew.
Antistatic — The ability of a carpet system to dissipate an electrostatic charge before it reaches the threshold of human sensitivity.
Attached Cushion — A cushioning material, such as foam, rubber, urethane, PVC, etc., adhered to the back side of a carpet to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness and padding.
Average Pile Yarn Weight —Mass per unit area of the pile yarn including buried portions of the pile yarn. In the United States, it is usually expressed as ounces per square yard.
Backing — Fabrics and yarns that make up the back of the carpet as opposed to the carpet pile or face. In tufted carpet:
* Primary backing — A woven or nonwoven fabric in which the yarn is inserted by the tufting needles.
* Secondary backing — Fabric laminated to the back of the carpet to increase dimensional stability.
In woven carpet, the backing consists of “construction yarns” which are interwoven with the face yarn.
Berber — A loop-pile carpet style tufted with thick yarn, such as wool, nylon or olefin. Often having random specks of color in contrast to a base hue, this carpet style has a full, comfortable feel, while maintaining an informal, casual look. Currently, this term has expanded to describe many level or multilevel loop carpet styles.
Binding — A band or strip sewn over a carpet edge to protect, strengthen or decorate the edge.
Broadloom — A term used to denote carpet produced in widths wider than 6 feet. Broadloom is usually 12 feet wide, but may also be 13 feet 6 inches and 15 feet wide.
Bulked continuous filament (BCF) — Continuous strands of synthetic fiber formed into yarn bundles of a given number of filaments and texturized to increase bulk and cover. Texturizing changes the straight filaments into kinked or curled configurations.
Construction — The manufacturing method (i.e., tufted, woven) and the final arrangement of fiber and backing materials as stated in its specification.
Cushion — Any kind of material placed under carpet to provide softness and adequate support when it is walked upon. Carpet cushion provides a softer feel underfoot and provides added acoustical and insulation benefits and longer wear life for the carpet. In some cases, the carpet cushion is attached to the carpet when it is manufactured. Also referred to as “padding” or “underlay,” although “cushion” is the preferred term. Cushion under most residential carpet should be a thickness of no greater than 7/16" and no less than 1/4" with 6 pound per cubic feet density. If the carpet is a Berber or a low profile carpet, choose a cushion of no more than 3/8" thickness with 8 pounds of density.
Cut Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.
Cut-Loop Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of a combination of cut ends of pile yarns and loops.
Delamination — Separation of the secondary backing or attached cushion from the primary backing of the carpet.
Density — Refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. In general, the denser the pile, the better the performance.
Dimensional Stability — The ability of the carpet to retain its original size and shape, e.g. a secondary backing adds dimensional stability to carpet.
Direct Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet is adhered to the floor.
Double Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet cushion is first adhered to the floor with an adhesive, and the carpet is then glued to the cushion.
Filament — A single continuous strand of natural or synthetic fiber.
Finished Yarn Weight —Yarn weight in ounces/square yard of a finished (after manufacturing process) carpet. The finished yarn weight is determined by removing all yarn from the finished carpet and dissolving any foreign non-yarn materials.
Fluffing — Appearance on carpet surface of loose fiber fragments left during manufacture; not a defect, but a characteristic that disappears after carpet use and vacuuming. Sometimes called “fuzzing” or “shedding.”
Frieze — Pronounced "free-zay," this tightly twisted yarn gives carpet a rough, nubby appearance.
Fuzzing — Hairy effect on fabric surface caused by fibers slipping out of the yarn with wear or wet cleaning.
Gauge — The distance between two needle points expressed in fractions of an inch. Applies to both knitting and tufting.
Hand — The tactile aesthetic qualities of carpet and textiles, how it feels to the hand.
Heat Setting— The process that sets the twist by heat or steam, enabling yarns to hold their twist over time. Important in cut pile carpet. Most nylon, olefin and polyester cut-pile carpet are heat-set.
Indoor/Outdoor Carpet — A term synonymous with outdoor carpet.
Level Loop — The pile loops are of substantially the same height and uncut, making a smooth, level surface.
Loop Pile — Carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. May be woven or tufted. Also called “round wire” in woven carpet terminology.
Luster — Brightness or sheen of fibers, yarns, carpet or fabrics.
Miter Joint — A junction of two pieces of carpet (or other material) at an angle. Most miter joints involve pieces at right angles to one another with their ends cut at 45 degrees to form the joint.
Pile — The visible surface of carpet consisting of yarn tufts in loop and/or cut configuration. Sometimes called “face” or “nap”.
Pile Crush — Loss of pile thickness due to compression and bending of tufts caused by traffic and heavy furniture. The tufts collapse into the air space between them. This may be irreversible if the yarn has inadequate resilience or the pile has insufficient density for the traffic load. Frequent vacuuming will lift the pile for longer carpet life.
Pilling — A condition of the carpet face (which may occur from heavy traffic) in which fibers from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming tangled masses of fibers. Pills may be cut off with scissors.
Plush — Luxuriously smooth-textured carpet surface in which individual tufts are only minimally visible and the overall visual effect is that of a single level of yarn ends. This finish is normally achieved only on cut-pile carpet produced from spun yarns by brushing and shearing. Sometimes called “velvet-plush.”
Ply — 1. A single-end component in a plied yarn. 2. The number that tells how many single ends have been ply-twisted together to form a plied yarn, e.g., two-ply or three-ply.
Power Stretcher — A carpet installation tool used to stretch carpet for installation with a tackless strip. According to industry standards, residential carpet, installed over A cushion with a tackless strip, must be power-stretched to prevent wrinkles and ripples.
Resilience — Ability of carpet pile or cushion to recover original appearance and thickness after being subjected to compressive forces or crushing under traffic.
Saxony — A cut-pile carpet texture with twisted yarns in a relatively dense, erect configuration. The effect is well-defined tuft tips.
Seams — In a carpet installation, the line formed by joining the edges of two pieces of carpet by the use of seaming tapes, hand sewing or other techniques.
Seam Sealing — A procedure in which a continuous bead of adhesive is applied to the trimmed edges of carpet to be joined at a seam. Seam sealing prevents fraying and unraveling at the seam.
Serging — A method of finishing edges of area rugs by use of heavy, colored yarn sewn around the edges in a close, overcast stitch.
Shading — A change in the appearance of a carpet due to localized distortions in the orientation of the fibers, tufts or loops. Shading is not a change in color or hue, but a difference in light reflection.
Sisal — A carpet style mimicking the woven look of rugs made from a natural plant fiber. The pattern has the appearance of interwoven webs but is created on a tufting machine by continually adjusting the height of each pile yarn.
Soil Retardant — A chemical finish applied to fibers or carpet surfaces that inhibit the attachment of soil.
Sprouting — Protrusion of individual tuft or yarn ends above the pile surface. May be clipped with scissors.
Staple — Short lengths of fiber that may be converted into spun yarns by textile yarn spinning processes. These spun yarns are also called “staple” yarns. For carpet yarns spun on the common, modified worsted systems, most staple is six to eight inches long. Staple fiber may also be converted directly into nonwoven fabrics, such as needle-punched carpet.
Stitches — Stitches per inch. Number of yarn tufts per running inch of a single tuft row in tufted carpet.
Stretch-In — Installation procedure for installing carpet over a separate cushion using a tackless strip; properly performed with a power stretcher.
Tackless Strip — Wood or metal strips fastened to the floor near the walls of a room containing either two or three rows of pins angled toward the walls on which the carpet backing is stretched and secured in a stretch-in installation.
Tuft Bind — Force required to pull a tuft from the carpet.
Tufted — Carpet manufactured by the insertion of tufts of yarn through a carpet-backing fabric, creating a pile surface of cut and/or loop ends.
Twist—- The winding of the yarn around itself. Should be neat and well defined. A tighter twist provides enhanced durability.
Underlay — Carpet cushion under rugs.
Woven — Carpet produced on a weaving loom in which the lengthwise yarns and widthwise yarns are interlaced to form the fabric, including the face and the backing.
Yarn Ply — The number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn.
"CRI has listed some basic terminology below to help you become more educated when it comes to your carpet purchase and installation. Familiarizing yourself with these common carpet terms will help you communicate more effectively with your carpet retailer and installer, and it will help you make the most informed carpet decisions possible.
Antimicrobial — A chemical treatment added to carpet to reduce the growth of common bacteria, fungi, yeast, mold and mildew.
Antistatic — The ability of a carpet system to dissipate an electrostatic charge before it reaches the threshold of human sensitivity.
Attached Cushion — A cushioning material, such as foam, rubber, urethane, PVC, etc., adhered to the back side of a carpet to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness and padding.
Average Pile Yarn Weight —Mass per unit area of the pile yarn including buried portions of the pile yarn. In the United States, it is usually expressed as ounces per square yard.
Backing — Fabrics and yarns that make up the back of the carpet as opposed to the carpet pile or face. In tufted carpet:
* Primary backing — A woven or nonwoven fabric in which the yarn is inserted by the tufting needles.
* Secondary backing — Fabric laminated to the back of the carpet to increase dimensional stability.
In woven carpet, the backing consists of “construction yarns” which are interwoven with the face yarn.
Berber — A loop-pile carpet style tufted with thick yarn, such as wool, nylon or olefin. Often having random specks of color in contrast to a base hue, this carpet style has a full, comfortable feel, while maintaining an informal, casual look. Currently, this term has expanded to describe many level or multilevel loop carpet styles.
Binding — A band or strip sewn over a carpet edge to protect, strengthen or decorate the edge.
Broadloom — A term used to denote carpet produced in widths wider than 6 feet. Broadloom is usually 12 feet wide, but may also be 13 feet 6 inches and 15 feet wide.
Bulked continuous filament (BCF) — Continuous strands of synthetic fiber formed into yarn bundles of a given number of filaments and texturized to increase bulk and cover. Texturizing changes the straight filaments into kinked or curled configurations.
Construction — The manufacturing method (i.e., tufted, woven) and the final arrangement of fiber and backing materials as stated in its specification.
Cushion — Any kind of material placed under carpet to provide softness and adequate support when it is walked upon. Carpet cushion provides a softer feel underfoot and provides added acoustical and insulation benefits and longer wear life for the carpet. In some cases, the carpet cushion is attached to the carpet when it is manufactured. Also referred to as “padding” or “underlay,” although “cushion” is the preferred term. Cushion under most residential carpet should be a thickness of no greater than 7/16" and no less than 1/4" with 6 pound per cubic feet density. If the carpet is a Berber or a low profile carpet, choose a cushion of no more than 3/8" thickness with 8 pounds of density.
Cut Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.
Cut-Loop Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of a combination of cut ends of pile yarns and loops.
Delamination — Separation of the secondary backing or attached cushion from the primary backing of the carpet.
Density — Refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. In general, the denser the pile, the better the performance.
Dimensional Stability — The ability of the carpet to retain its original size and shape, e.g. a secondary backing adds dimensional stability to carpet.
Direct Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet is adhered to the floor.
Double Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet cushion is first adhered to the floor with an adhesive, and the carpet is then glued to the cushion.
Filament — A single continuous strand of natural or synthetic fiber.
Finished Yarn Weight —Yarn weight in ounces/square yard of a finished (after manufacturing process) carpet. The finished yarn weight is determined by removing all yarn from the finished carpet and dissolving any foreign non-yarn materials.
Fluffing — Appearance on carpet surface of loose fiber fragments left during manufacture; not a defect, but a characteristic that disappears after carpet use and vacuuming. Sometimes called “fuzzing” or “shedding.”
Frieze — Pronounced "free-zay," this tightly twisted yarn gives carpet a rough, nubby appearance.
Fuzzing — Hairy effect on fabric surface caused by fibers slipping out of the yarn with wear or wet cleaning.
Gauge — The distance between two needle points expressed in fractions of an inch. Applies to both knitting and tufting.
Hand — The tactile aesthetic qualities of carpet and textiles, how it feels to the hand.
Heat Setting— The process that sets the twist by heat or steam, enabling yarns to hold their twist over time. Important in cut pile carpet. Most nylon, olefin and polyester cut-pile carpet are heat-set.
Indoor/Outdoor Carpet — A term synonymous with outdoor carpet.
Level Loop — The pile loops are of substantially the same height and uncut, making a smooth, level surface.
Loop Pile — Carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. May be woven or tufted. Also called “round wire” in woven carpet terminology.
Luster — Brightness or sheen of fibers, yarns, carpet or fabrics.
Miter Joint — A junction of two pieces of carpet (or other material) at an angle. Most miter joints involve pieces at right angles to one another with their ends cut at 45 degrees to form the joint.
Pile — The visible surface of carpet consisting of yarn tufts in loop and/or cut configuration. Sometimes called “face” or “nap”.
Pile Crush — Loss of pile thickness due to compression and bending of tufts caused by traffic and heavy furniture. The tufts collapse into the air space between them. This may be irreversible if the yarn has inadequate resilience or the pile has insufficient density for the traffic load. Frequent vacuuming will lift the pile for longer carpet life.
Pilling — A condition of the carpet face (which may occur from heavy traffic) in which fibers from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming tangled masses of fibers. Pills may be cut off with scissors.
Plush — Luxuriously smooth-textured carpet surface in which individual tufts are only minimally visible and the overall visual effect is that of a single level of yarn ends. This finish is normally achieved only on cut-pile carpet produced from spun yarns by brushing and shearing. Sometimes called “velvet-plush.”
Ply — 1. A single-end component in a plied yarn. 2. The number that tells how many single ends have been ply-twisted together to form a plied yarn, e.g., two-ply or three-ply.
Power Stretcher — A carpet installation tool used to stretch carpet for installation with a tackless strip. According to industry standards, residential carpet, installed over A cushion with a tackless strip, must be power-stretched to prevent wrinkles and ripples.
Resilience — Ability of carpet pile or cushion to recover original appearance and thickness after being subjected to compressive forces or crushing under traffic.
Saxony — A cut-pile carpet texture with twisted yarns in a relatively dense, erect configuration. The effect is well-defined tuft tips.
Seams — In a carpet installation, the line formed by joining the edges of two pieces of carpet by the use of seaming tapes, hand sewing or other techniques.
Seam Sealing — A procedure in which a continuous bead of adhesive is applied to the trimmed edges of carpet to be joined at a seam. Seam sealing prevents fraying and unraveling at the seam.
Serging — A method of finishing edges of area rugs by use of heavy, colored yarn sewn around the edges in a close, overcast stitch.
Shading — A change in the appearance of a carpet due to localized distortions in the orientation of the fibers, tufts or loops. Shading is not a change in color or hue, but a difference in light reflection.
Sisal — A carpet style mimicking the woven look of rugs made from a natural plant fiber. The pattern has the appearance of interwoven webs but is created on a tufting machine by continually adjusting the height of each pile yarn.
Soil Retardant — A chemical finish applied to fibers or carpet surfaces that inhibit the attachment of soil.
Sprouting — Protrusion of individual tuft or yarn ends above the pile surface. May be clipped with scissors.
Staple — Short lengths of fiber that may be converted into spun yarns by textile yarn spinning processes. These spun yarns are also called “staple” yarns. For carpet yarns spun on the common, modified worsted systems, most staple is six to eight inches long. Staple fiber may also be converted directly into nonwoven fabrics, such as needle-punched carpet.
Stitches — Stitches per inch. Number of yarn tufts per running inch of a single tuft row in tufted carpet.
Stretch-In — Installation procedure for installing carpet over a separate cushion using a tackless strip; properly performed with a power stretcher.
Tackless Strip — Wood or metal strips fastened to the floor near the walls of a room containing either two or three rows of pins angled toward the walls on which the carpet backing is stretched and secured in a stretch-in installation.
Tuft Bind — Force required to pull a tuft from the carpet.
Tufted — Carpet manufactured by the insertion of tufts of yarn through a carpet-backing fabric, creating a pile surface of cut and/or loop ends.
Twist—- The winding of the yarn around itself. Should be neat and well defined. A tighter twist provides enhanced durability.
Underlay — Carpet cushion under rugs.
Woven — Carpet produced on a weaving loom in which the lengthwise yarns and widthwise yarns are interlaced to form the fabric, including the face and the backing.
Yarn Ply — The number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
