We thought this was an interesting post. It doesn't really give any reason why the steam cleaner is still a "leader", however, the description of what a steam cleaner does is excellent. Hope you enjoy!
Protecting the large investment you’ve made in carpeting for your home is motivation enough for wanting to take care of it. Keeping your carpeting fresh, clean and in good repair is a big undertaking.
Not only do you want for it to look good, you want for it to be good for the indoor environment in which your family lives and breathes.
Well known choices are available everywhere
You’re not the only one with these concerns. Carpet steam cleaning has become a major business. The yellow pages are full of service companies waiting to serve you. Equipment and supplies for DIY are right there in your local supermarket, ready to be carried off with your Saturday morning bacon and eggs.
Until alternative cleaning methods came along, steam carpet cleaning was just an automatic maintenance and problem solving procedure that didn’t really merit much thought about how it worked or what it actually achieved. You are one of today’s educated consumers who wants to know more than what time it is. You want to know how the clock works. Thanks to you, that is why this article is here.
How it workssteam cleaner
Steam cleaning your carpet has to begin with a very thorough vacuuming of the carpet. Be sure to give lots of attention to this step because leaving less dry soil and contaminants in your carpet means there won’t be as much clean up of the muddy mixture that results from the application of hot water.
When you vacuum, pay particular attention to the carpet nearest to entry doors because this is where the highest concentrations of dirt will be. Be sure to make numerous passes over these areas.
Steam carpet cleaning isn’t really steam cleaning at all. But, that’s OK because study has shown that high temperature moisture has a detrimental effect on the integrity of carpet fiber and the base they have been fixed to.
Steam carpet cleaning is a way of deep cleaning that integrates a hot water cleaning solution mix delivery system with a wet vacuum spent cleaner recovery system. Does that sound sophisticated to you? It isn’t really, but it probably seemed more so years ago at it’s introduction.
What has become sophisticated however, is the cleaning solutions which are available to you to run through the equipment. They are safer re has been major results oriented improvement worthy of your evaluation.
Does it get the job done right
Because the cleaning solutions are fully dissolved in the hot water, two problems are created. The dirty water recovery process cannot pick up all the solution so the carpet fibers, backing, and even the under pad remains damp. Depending on the ambient air humidity levels and the amount of water sprayed on, it can take as much as three or four days for your carpet to dry out. That is sufficient time for odor causing bacteria and unhealthy mildew to begin growing.
The second part of the problem of leaving moisture behind is that dissolved cleaning chemicals are being left on the carpet as well. When they dry, the detergent residue becomes sticky, and sticky carpet fibers will attract dirt and hold on to it. What this means is that you could have a nice clean looking carpet that is going to quickly become dirtier than it was before steam cleaning.
Most of the producers of steam cleaning chemicals and the service companies that use them have been working to develop cleaners with improved rinsing agents to overcome the sticky residue problem. Others look to ways of using less cleaning solution and therefore less moisture to pick up. Short of using trial and error, just who among them has made the greatest strides is difficult to determine.
Turning the job over to experts gets better results
As a DIY project be prepared for some work. The wheel mounted equipment, is a little cumbersome to set up but not too difficult to move around once you’re into the cleaning process. Most steam cleaning equipment consists of two tanks; one being a reservoir of cleaning fluid and fresh, hot water you fill manually from the tap.The other is a manually emptied depository for dirty water being returned from the carpet.
Water is pressure pumped into the carpet through a wand as you move it over the area to be cleaned and almost immediately sucked back up through a wet vac portion of the same cleaning wand. You can and should hold off on the spraying of more cleaning solution while continuing to wet vac until you are satisfied no more moisture can be extracted. You will easily get into a rhythm of switching back and forth.
There are several very good reasons for calling in a steam cleaning company to do your carpets. A considerable amount of carrying is involved filling and emptying tanks. If you’re not careful, it can become sloppy work as well. An experienced operator can also make a better “read” of the situation, knowing when and where to apply more solution. Let the cleaning service decide if any of your carpets are incompatible and which stains might benefit from spot cleaning. They’ll also get the work done much faster, but the best reason has to do with the equipment.
Ask some of the contractors working in your area, and you will probably find they use commercial equipment -some even truck mounted- packing more power than the machines available to you on the rental market. This alone could be enough to make a vital difference to the end result.
Why Steam Carpet Cleaning is Still the Leader Article found at http://www.home-decorating-reviews.com
Showing posts with label house cleaning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label house cleaning. Show all posts
Tuesday
Caring for Your Hardwood Floors
Floor Care and Maintenance
By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your floor. The following are examples of the reasonable and necessary maintenance you should to perform.
* Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
* Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products.
* NEVER wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties. The use of the dry Swiffer® sweeper by Procter & Gamble or another similar product is highly recommended. Do not use hardwood floor cleaning machines.
* The use of approved maintenance and floor-care products, including but not limited to Bona X Swedish Formula Hardwood Flooring Cleaner and Basic Coating Squeaky Hardwood Floor Cleaner, is highly recommended.
* IMPORTANT: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products, or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, silicon or ammonia since these warranties do not cover damage caused by non-recommended products. Use of these and other such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor and may also affect its recoat ability.
* Keep pets' nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil and stains.
* Place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents.
* Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture or appliances.
* Make certain furniture casters are clean and operate properly (a minimum 1" width is recommended).
* Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on floor.
* Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the stain and/or wood to fade and/or to change color. We recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. These warranties do not cover damage from the sun and its UV rays.
* Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g., stair landings, room entries, etc.), especially if you have a large family or indoor pets.
* Place mats on both sides of doors leading out of the house. These mats will help catch dirt, sand and other materials that may damage your floor.
Information in this article can be found at Andersonfloors.com
By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your floor. The following are examples of the reasonable and necessary maintenance you should to perform.
* Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
* Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products.
* NEVER wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties. The use of the dry Swiffer® sweeper by Procter & Gamble or another similar product is highly recommended. Do not use hardwood floor cleaning machines.
* The use of approved maintenance and floor-care products, including but not limited to Bona X Swedish Formula Hardwood Flooring Cleaner and Basic Coating Squeaky Hardwood Floor Cleaner, is highly recommended.
* IMPORTANT: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products, or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, silicon or ammonia since these warranties do not cover damage caused by non-recommended products. Use of these and other such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor and may also affect its recoat ability.
* Keep pets' nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil and stains.
* Place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents.
* Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture or appliances.
* Make certain furniture casters are clean and operate properly (a minimum 1" width is recommended).
* Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on floor.
* Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the stain and/or wood to fade and/or to change color. We recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. These warranties do not cover damage from the sun and its UV rays.
* Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g., stair landings, room entries, etc.), especially if you have a large family or indoor pets.
* Place mats on both sides of doors leading out of the house. These mats will help catch dirt, sand and other materials that may damage your floor.
Information in this article can be found at Andersonfloors.com
Troubleshooting Common Carpet Issues
We found this great article from the The Carpet and Rug Institute
Texture surface retention
Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.
Crushing
Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce crushing that results from traffic. Manufacturers’ definitions of crushing may vary.
Depressions or indentations
The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.
Fading or color loss
Give your carpet the normal protection from direct sunlight that you would give to any colored fabric. Emissions from heating systems or chemicals, such as pesticides, household cleaning agents and other household items, can also result in color loss.
Filtration soil
Filtration soil may appear as dark or grayish lines on carpet along walls, stairways and under doors. It is caused by airflow over and through carpet, allowing fine soils to settle on the surface. It is often caused by an improperly balanced ventilation system, when the volume of air entering a room exceeds the system’s capacity to remove air from the room. Excess air then seeks exit sources in gaps along walls and stairways. Prevent the airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing openings through the carpet and under doors and baseboards. Keeping the air in the area clean and using good filtration in your heating and cooling systems and vacuum cleaners can help. Filtration soils may require special cleaning treatment for effective removal. Contact a carpet-cleaning professional for assistance.
Fluffing and shedding
The balls of fluff, or loose fibers, found on carpet or in the vacuum cleaner bag are the normal result of fiber left in the carpet from the manufacturing process. Removing these loose fibers does not affect carpet life or appearance. Because of their large size, these fibers are too big to become airborne or to be breathed in. With proper vacuuming and using a quality vacuum cleaner, most shedding gradually disappears within the first year after installation.
Matting
Manufacturers’ definitions of matting may vary. Matting is usually the result of the untwisting of the yarn and the intermingling of the yarn tips through foot traffic. Matting may be caused by various factors, including an improperly specified cushion, cushion failure, or improper maintenance. Matting is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty.
Moth, beetle and flea control
Most wool and wool-blend carpet made in the United States is permanently treated to prevent moth damage. Carpet and rugs of manufactured (synthetic) fibers are naturally resistant to insects, because such fibers are not a food source and are resistant to beetles, commonly called carpet beetles. However, beetles already in the home may lay eggs in the carpet pile and hatch in 8 to 15 days. Pet owners also may find fleas on their carpet. Fleas will not damage the carpet and will die there, unless they find another animal to sustain them. Frequent vacuuming aids in the control of fleas on carpet; just be sure to change the vacuum bag often. For assistance in removing beetles or other insects, contact a professional pest control specialist.
Odor
During and immediately following the installation of your new carpet, there may be a slight odor, which may result from the removal of your old carpet and cushion or from the new carpet, cushion, adhesives or seaming tape. Ventilation with fresh air is recommended. Ideally, windows and doors should be opened, and the HVAC system should be operated at maximum capacity for 48 to 72 hours.
Soiling
Maintain the beauty of your carpet by cleaning it regularly before it becomes excessively soiled. Dirty, airborne particles may be deposited on carpet, causing dulling. Dulling is caused by the deposits of all types of soil. For example, a delicate rose color may gradually become a neutral taupe because of soil, while light blue may take on a dull, gray-green hue. Red clay soil also can cause a pronounced change in some colors. In spite of such phenomena, the original color of a carpet is not lost; it is still present under the soil. Oily soil may be very difficult to remove after it has been on the carpet for a long time, and it may be actually absorbed into the fiber, causing the carpet to have a yellow cast. Frequent cleanings are important to avoid this problem. Entry mats at doorways trap soil, and combined with routine cleaning and vacuuming, provide extra protection for all floor coverings.
Sprouting
Occasionally, a yarn tuft will rise above the pile surface of a carpet. Just snip off these tufts to the level of the other tufts. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT. If this problem persists in a localized area, contact your flooring contractor or manufacturer’s representative.
Stain-resistant carpet
Almost all carpet manufactured today has finishes that make it more stain- and soil-resistant, but no carpet is entirely stainproof. It still requires care. Remove spots and spills promptly. If spills or soils are allowed to remain, they may become permanent. Call the phone number normally found on the carpet warranty to obtain specific information about cleaning the carpet.
Topical treatments
Topical treatments include soil retardants, stain repellents, antistatic treatments and deodorizers. The use of after-market, topical treatments without the express approval of the carpet manufacturer prior to application may void applicable warranties.
Wear
Most carpet manufacturers offer “wear” warranties of various time lengths. According to these warranties, “wear” is defined as the loss of pile weight or pile fiber (usually 10 percent) due to abrasive loss of fiber by weight. What appears to be wear, or pile fiber loss, may actually be matting, crushing or permanent fiber damage caused by soiling rather than loss of fiber. There is seldom actual loss of pile fiber. (See also Matting, Crushing.)
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles in carpet are most often caused by a failure to stretch the carpet correctly using a power stretcher, the use of an incorrect or failed cushion, or excessive temperature and/or humidity. Ripples can be caused by a combination of any of the above. If ripples or buckles develop, consult your carpet retailer. Generally, the problem can be corrected by a qualified carpet installer who reinstalls the carpet with a power stretcher.
Texture surface retention
Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.
Crushing
Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce crushing that results from traffic. Manufacturers’ definitions of crushing may vary.
Depressions or indentations
The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.
Fading or color loss
Give your carpet the normal protection from direct sunlight that you would give to any colored fabric. Emissions from heating systems or chemicals, such as pesticides, household cleaning agents and other household items, can also result in color loss.
Filtration soil
Filtration soil may appear as dark or grayish lines on carpet along walls, stairways and under doors. It is caused by airflow over and through carpet, allowing fine soils to settle on the surface. It is often caused by an improperly balanced ventilation system, when the volume of air entering a room exceeds the system’s capacity to remove air from the room. Excess air then seeks exit sources in gaps along walls and stairways. Prevent the airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing openings through the carpet and under doors and baseboards. Keeping the air in the area clean and using good filtration in your heating and cooling systems and vacuum cleaners can help. Filtration soils may require special cleaning treatment for effective removal. Contact a carpet-cleaning professional for assistance.
Fluffing and shedding
The balls of fluff, or loose fibers, found on carpet or in the vacuum cleaner bag are the normal result of fiber left in the carpet from the manufacturing process. Removing these loose fibers does not affect carpet life or appearance. Because of their large size, these fibers are too big to become airborne or to be breathed in. With proper vacuuming and using a quality vacuum cleaner, most shedding gradually disappears within the first year after installation.
Matting
Manufacturers’ definitions of matting may vary. Matting is usually the result of the untwisting of the yarn and the intermingling of the yarn tips through foot traffic. Matting may be caused by various factors, including an improperly specified cushion, cushion failure, or improper maintenance. Matting is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty.
Moth, beetle and flea control
Most wool and wool-blend carpet made in the United States is permanently treated to prevent moth damage. Carpet and rugs of manufactured (synthetic) fibers are naturally resistant to insects, because such fibers are not a food source and are resistant to beetles, commonly called carpet beetles. However, beetles already in the home may lay eggs in the carpet pile and hatch in 8 to 15 days. Pet owners also may find fleas on their carpet. Fleas will not damage the carpet and will die there, unless they find another animal to sustain them. Frequent vacuuming aids in the control of fleas on carpet; just be sure to change the vacuum bag often. For assistance in removing beetles or other insects, contact a professional pest control specialist.
Odor
During and immediately following the installation of your new carpet, there may be a slight odor, which may result from the removal of your old carpet and cushion or from the new carpet, cushion, adhesives or seaming tape. Ventilation with fresh air is recommended. Ideally, windows and doors should be opened, and the HVAC system should be operated at maximum capacity for 48 to 72 hours.
Soiling
Maintain the beauty of your carpet by cleaning it regularly before it becomes excessively soiled. Dirty, airborne particles may be deposited on carpet, causing dulling. Dulling is caused by the deposits of all types of soil. For example, a delicate rose color may gradually become a neutral taupe because of soil, while light blue may take on a dull, gray-green hue. Red clay soil also can cause a pronounced change in some colors. In spite of such phenomena, the original color of a carpet is not lost; it is still present under the soil. Oily soil may be very difficult to remove after it has been on the carpet for a long time, and it may be actually absorbed into the fiber, causing the carpet to have a yellow cast. Frequent cleanings are important to avoid this problem. Entry mats at doorways trap soil, and combined with routine cleaning and vacuuming, provide extra protection for all floor coverings.
Sprouting
Occasionally, a yarn tuft will rise above the pile surface of a carpet. Just snip off these tufts to the level of the other tufts. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT. If this problem persists in a localized area, contact your flooring contractor or manufacturer’s representative.
Stain-resistant carpet
Almost all carpet manufactured today has finishes that make it more stain- and soil-resistant, but no carpet is entirely stainproof. It still requires care. Remove spots and spills promptly. If spills or soils are allowed to remain, they may become permanent. Call the phone number normally found on the carpet warranty to obtain specific information about cleaning the carpet.
Topical treatments
Topical treatments include soil retardants, stain repellents, antistatic treatments and deodorizers. The use of after-market, topical treatments without the express approval of the carpet manufacturer prior to application may void applicable warranties.
Wear
Most carpet manufacturers offer “wear” warranties of various time lengths. According to these warranties, “wear” is defined as the loss of pile weight or pile fiber (usually 10 percent) due to abrasive loss of fiber by weight. What appears to be wear, or pile fiber loss, may actually be matting, crushing or permanent fiber damage caused by soiling rather than loss of fiber. There is seldom actual loss of pile fiber. (See also Matting, Crushing.)
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles in carpet are most often caused by a failure to stretch the carpet correctly using a power stretcher, the use of an incorrect or failed cushion, or excessive temperature and/or humidity. Ripples can be caused by a combination of any of the above. If ripples or buckles develop, consult your carpet retailer. Generally, the problem can be corrected by a qualified carpet installer who reinstalls the carpet with a power stretcher.
Monday
Remove Water Stains from Carpet
If you have a small water stain on your carpet check out the video below on how to remove the stain.
Carpet Ghosts
Great tip from Marthastewart.com on how to remove "carpet ghosts."
Carpet ghosts are those little indentations left behind when a piece of furniture has been resting in one place for a long time. If you're looking for a simple and efficient way to eliminate them, simply place ice cubes where the carpet has been crushed or matted. The fibers of the carpet will swell as they absorb the water. Once the ice cubes have melted, just blot the wet area with a dry towel, and vacuum the carpet to straighten out the fibers. Voila! Carpet ghosts are gone. Don't forget to use your Lift Buddy when cleaning moving furniture
Carpet ghosts are those little indentations left behind when a piece of furniture has been resting in one place for a long time. If you're looking for a simple and efficient way to eliminate them, simply place ice cubes where the carpet has been crushed or matted. The fibers of the carpet will swell as they absorb the water. Once the ice cubes have melted, just blot the wet area with a dry towel, and vacuum the carpet to straighten out the fibers. Voila! Carpet ghosts are gone. Don't forget to use your Lift Buddy when cleaning moving furniture
Sunday
Upholstry Cleaning
As professional carpet cleaners, we spend a lot of time on our blog talking about carpet care for your floor and have neglected to mention upholstery care. Furniture can be a major investment and maintaining an upholstery cleaning schedule is necessary to keep your furniture looking clean and well maintained for years to come.
Busy schedules most often prevents people from spending time properly cleaning their furniture and drapes. If so, we recommend hiring a professional upholstery cleaning company every 6-12 months to properly maintain and manage your upholstery needs. For others, who have the time, the following are ways to safely clean furniture.
As with carpet, regular vacuuming is necessary. This is to prevent, dust, dirt, grease and oils from getting trapped deeply within the fibers giving your furniture an old, grungy and worn look before it's time.
Prior to vacuuming, make sure to search cushions and remove loose coins, threads, kid toys, and/or other items that will clog and possibly damage your vacuum.
It is always best to use the soft brush attachment, standard to most vacuums. If you use the soft brush for other parts of the house, you might consider purchasing an extra brush for upholstery so as not to transfer dirt onto the upholstery. The crevice tool should be utilized to remove crumbs and dirt that fall in between the cracks of your upholstery.
We recommend that you vacuum upholstery at least once a week.Every 6-12 months it will become necessary to clean your upholstery. Due to the wide range in upholstery fabrics, make sure to read the instructions and purchase the cleaning product that is right for your upholstery.
Also, to help prevent future stains and to make life much easier, we recommend finding an upholstery cleaner that contains "soil retardant". After you purchase your cleaning product, always test the cleaning product on an small, hidden area of the upholstery to look for possible fabric discoloration.
If your furniture is being protected by slip covers always remove them before cleaning any spots to avoid damage to the fabric underneath.
Always clean stains and spills with a soft, white cotton cloth. As with carpet, remember to blot not rub stains. Remove as much of the stain as possible, then treat whatever stain remains.
If you are unable to remove the stain is it always best to call a professional upholstery cleaning company to remove the stain.
Saturday
Remove Red Wine from your Carpet
We found this wonderful video that demonstrates the best way to remove red wine from your carpet!!
Friday
How to Clean Hardwood Floors
Great video on how to clean hardwood floors! Don't forget to purchase your Caution Sign to protect the ones you love from injury!
Tuesday
Carpet Cleaning Tips
As carpet cleaning professionals we are always asked for tips on how to keep carpets looking great. That is why we have put together 5 basic tips to help keep your carpet looking clean and fresh.
Carpet Cleaning Tip 1 - Create a Schedule
Dust accumulation is the biggest culprit in giving carpets that old, grungy look. A regular vacuum and shampoo schedule helps to reduce the dust level in your carpet. We recommend a quick vacuum every day (at least in the heavy traffic areas)to remove dust and a shampoo every 6-12 months. Be sure to buy all supplies beforehand (vacuum bags and/or belts, shampoo).
The combination of these methods when done properly will remove oils, greases and whatever stains finds itself on your carpet.
Carpet Cleaning Tip 2 - Clean Spills Immediately.
The longer that you let spills and stains remain on your carpet the harder they are to clean. Take care of of spills and stains as soon as possible (For a stain guide chart, click here) before you're faced with a permanent stain on your carpet.
Carpet Cleaning Tip 3 - Use Mats at the Doorway
Doorways are the most heavily trafficked areas and should be protected with a mat. This will reduce the amount of dirt and dust that end up on your carpet, and hopefully throughout the house. Don't forget to regularly vacuum the mats.
4. Carpet Cleaning Tip 4 - Stock Up on Carpet Cleaning Supplies
Carpet cleaners can be mild or very strong. Always read the ingredients, and ventilate the room well when cleaning.
When using these products please read the manufactures instructions carefully and take the necessary precautions like wearing gloves and using goggles.
Carpet Cleaning Tip 5 - Hire a carpet cleaning professional
Let someone else worry about deep cleaning the carpets!
To choose a carpet cleaning professional be sure to ask for references. You shouldn't trust your carpet just anyone.
I hope that these tips are helpful to you and your carpet. Take good care them.
Monday
Carpet Terms
We found this great article on carpet terms from the Carpet and Rug Institute. Check it out below to see how many terms you are familiar with and be sure to use them the next time you have your carpets professionally cleaned!
"CRI has listed some basic terminology below to help you become more educated when it comes to your carpet purchase and installation. Familiarizing yourself with these common carpet terms will help you communicate more effectively with your carpet retailer and installer, and it will help you make the most informed carpet decisions possible.
Antimicrobial — A chemical treatment added to carpet to reduce the growth of common bacteria, fungi, yeast, mold and mildew.
Antistatic — The ability of a carpet system to dissipate an electrostatic charge before it reaches the threshold of human sensitivity.
Attached Cushion — A cushioning material, such as foam, rubber, urethane, PVC, etc., adhered to the back side of a carpet to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness and padding.
Average Pile Yarn Weight —Mass per unit area of the pile yarn including buried portions of the pile yarn. In the United States, it is usually expressed as ounces per square yard.
Backing — Fabrics and yarns that make up the back of the carpet as opposed to the carpet pile or face. In tufted carpet:
* Primary backing — A woven or nonwoven fabric in which the yarn is inserted by the tufting needles.
* Secondary backing — Fabric laminated to the back of the carpet to increase dimensional stability.
In woven carpet, the backing consists of “construction yarns” which are interwoven with the face yarn.
Berber — A loop-pile carpet style tufted with thick yarn, such as wool, nylon or olefin. Often having random specks of color in contrast to a base hue, this carpet style has a full, comfortable feel, while maintaining an informal, casual look. Currently, this term has expanded to describe many level or multilevel loop carpet styles.
Binding — A band or strip sewn over a carpet edge to protect, strengthen or decorate the edge.
Broadloom — A term used to denote carpet produced in widths wider than 6 feet. Broadloom is usually 12 feet wide, but may also be 13 feet 6 inches and 15 feet wide.
Bulked continuous filament (BCF) — Continuous strands of synthetic fiber formed into yarn bundles of a given number of filaments and texturized to increase bulk and cover. Texturizing changes the straight filaments into kinked or curled configurations.
Construction — The manufacturing method (i.e., tufted, woven) and the final arrangement of fiber and backing materials as stated in its specification.
Cushion — Any kind of material placed under carpet to provide softness and adequate support when it is walked upon. Carpet cushion provides a softer feel underfoot and provides added acoustical and insulation benefits and longer wear life for the carpet. In some cases, the carpet cushion is attached to the carpet when it is manufactured. Also referred to as “padding” or “underlay,” although “cushion” is the preferred term. Cushion under most residential carpet should be a thickness of no greater than 7/16" and no less than 1/4" with 6 pound per cubic feet density. If the carpet is a Berber or a low profile carpet, choose a cushion of no more than 3/8" thickness with 8 pounds of density.
Cut Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.
Cut-Loop Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of a combination of cut ends of pile yarns and loops.
Delamination — Separation of the secondary backing or attached cushion from the primary backing of the carpet.
Density — Refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. In general, the denser the pile, the better the performance.
Dimensional Stability — The ability of the carpet to retain its original size and shape, e.g. a secondary backing adds dimensional stability to carpet.
Direct Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet is adhered to the floor.
Double Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet cushion is first adhered to the floor with an adhesive, and the carpet is then glued to the cushion.
Filament — A single continuous strand of natural or synthetic fiber.
Finished Yarn Weight —Yarn weight in ounces/square yard of a finished (after manufacturing process) carpet. The finished yarn weight is determined by removing all yarn from the finished carpet and dissolving any foreign non-yarn materials.
Fluffing — Appearance on carpet surface of loose fiber fragments left during manufacture; not a defect, but a characteristic that disappears after carpet use and vacuuming. Sometimes called “fuzzing” or “shedding.”
Frieze — Pronounced "free-zay," this tightly twisted yarn gives carpet a rough, nubby appearance.
Fuzzing — Hairy effect on fabric surface caused by fibers slipping out of the yarn with wear or wet cleaning.
Gauge — The distance between two needle points expressed in fractions of an inch. Applies to both knitting and tufting.
Hand — The tactile aesthetic qualities of carpet and textiles, how it feels to the hand.
Heat Setting— The process that sets the twist by heat or steam, enabling yarns to hold their twist over time. Important in cut pile carpet. Most nylon, olefin and polyester cut-pile carpet are heat-set.
Indoor/Outdoor Carpet — A term synonymous with outdoor carpet.
Level Loop — The pile loops are of substantially the same height and uncut, making a smooth, level surface.
Loop Pile — Carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. May be woven or tufted. Also called “round wire” in woven carpet terminology.
Luster — Brightness or sheen of fibers, yarns, carpet or fabrics.
Miter Joint — A junction of two pieces of carpet (or other material) at an angle. Most miter joints involve pieces at right angles to one another with their ends cut at 45 degrees to form the joint.
Pile — The visible surface of carpet consisting of yarn tufts in loop and/or cut configuration. Sometimes called “face” or “nap”.
Pile Crush — Loss of pile thickness due to compression and bending of tufts caused by traffic and heavy furniture. The tufts collapse into the air space between them. This may be irreversible if the yarn has inadequate resilience or the pile has insufficient density for the traffic load. Frequent vacuuming will lift the pile for longer carpet life.
Pilling — A condition of the carpet face (which may occur from heavy traffic) in which fibers from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming tangled masses of fibers. Pills may be cut off with scissors.
Plush — Luxuriously smooth-textured carpet surface in which individual tufts are only minimally visible and the overall visual effect is that of a single level of yarn ends. This finish is normally achieved only on cut-pile carpet produced from spun yarns by brushing and shearing. Sometimes called “velvet-plush.”
Ply — 1. A single-end component in a plied yarn. 2. The number that tells how many single ends have been ply-twisted together to form a plied yarn, e.g., two-ply or three-ply.
Power Stretcher — A carpet installation tool used to stretch carpet for installation with a tackless strip. According to industry standards, residential carpet, installed over A cushion with a tackless strip, must be power-stretched to prevent wrinkles and ripples.
Resilience — Ability of carpet pile or cushion to recover original appearance and thickness after being subjected to compressive forces or crushing under traffic.
Saxony — A cut-pile carpet texture with twisted yarns in a relatively dense, erect configuration. The effect is well-defined tuft tips.
Seams — In a carpet installation, the line formed by joining the edges of two pieces of carpet by the use of seaming tapes, hand sewing or other techniques.
Seam Sealing — A procedure in which a continuous bead of adhesive is applied to the trimmed edges of carpet to be joined at a seam. Seam sealing prevents fraying and unraveling at the seam.
Serging — A method of finishing edges of area rugs by use of heavy, colored yarn sewn around the edges in a close, overcast stitch.
Shading — A change in the appearance of a carpet due to localized distortions in the orientation of the fibers, tufts or loops. Shading is not a change in color or hue, but a difference in light reflection.
Sisal — A carpet style mimicking the woven look of rugs made from a natural plant fiber. The pattern has the appearance of interwoven webs but is created on a tufting machine by continually adjusting the height of each pile yarn.
Soil Retardant — A chemical finish applied to fibers or carpet surfaces that inhibit the attachment of soil.
Sprouting — Protrusion of individual tuft or yarn ends above the pile surface. May be clipped with scissors.
Staple — Short lengths of fiber that may be converted into spun yarns by textile yarn spinning processes. These spun yarns are also called “staple” yarns. For carpet yarns spun on the common, modified worsted systems, most staple is six to eight inches long. Staple fiber may also be converted directly into nonwoven fabrics, such as needle-punched carpet.
Stitches — Stitches per inch. Number of yarn tufts per running inch of a single tuft row in tufted carpet.
Stretch-In — Installation procedure for installing carpet over a separate cushion using a tackless strip; properly performed with a power stretcher.
Tackless Strip — Wood or metal strips fastened to the floor near the walls of a room containing either two or three rows of pins angled toward the walls on which the carpet backing is stretched and secured in a stretch-in installation.
Tuft Bind — Force required to pull a tuft from the carpet.
Tufted — Carpet manufactured by the insertion of tufts of yarn through a carpet-backing fabric, creating a pile surface of cut and/or loop ends.
Twist—- The winding of the yarn around itself. Should be neat and well defined. A tighter twist provides enhanced durability.
Underlay — Carpet cushion under rugs.
Woven — Carpet produced on a weaving loom in which the lengthwise yarns and widthwise yarns are interlaced to form the fabric, including the face and the backing.
Yarn Ply — The number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn.
"CRI has listed some basic terminology below to help you become more educated when it comes to your carpet purchase and installation. Familiarizing yourself with these common carpet terms will help you communicate more effectively with your carpet retailer and installer, and it will help you make the most informed carpet decisions possible.
Antimicrobial — A chemical treatment added to carpet to reduce the growth of common bacteria, fungi, yeast, mold and mildew.
Antistatic — The ability of a carpet system to dissipate an electrostatic charge before it reaches the threshold of human sensitivity.
Attached Cushion — A cushioning material, such as foam, rubber, urethane, PVC, etc., adhered to the back side of a carpet to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness and padding.
Average Pile Yarn Weight —Mass per unit area of the pile yarn including buried portions of the pile yarn. In the United States, it is usually expressed as ounces per square yard.
Backing — Fabrics and yarns that make up the back of the carpet as opposed to the carpet pile or face. In tufted carpet:
* Primary backing — A woven or nonwoven fabric in which the yarn is inserted by the tufting needles.
* Secondary backing — Fabric laminated to the back of the carpet to increase dimensional stability.
In woven carpet, the backing consists of “construction yarns” which are interwoven with the face yarn.
Berber — A loop-pile carpet style tufted with thick yarn, such as wool, nylon or olefin. Often having random specks of color in contrast to a base hue, this carpet style has a full, comfortable feel, while maintaining an informal, casual look. Currently, this term has expanded to describe many level or multilevel loop carpet styles.
Binding — A band or strip sewn over a carpet edge to protect, strengthen or decorate the edge.
Broadloom — A term used to denote carpet produced in widths wider than 6 feet. Broadloom is usually 12 feet wide, but may also be 13 feet 6 inches and 15 feet wide.
Bulked continuous filament (BCF) — Continuous strands of synthetic fiber formed into yarn bundles of a given number of filaments and texturized to increase bulk and cover. Texturizing changes the straight filaments into kinked or curled configurations.
Construction — The manufacturing method (i.e., tufted, woven) and the final arrangement of fiber and backing materials as stated in its specification.
Cushion — Any kind of material placed under carpet to provide softness and adequate support when it is walked upon. Carpet cushion provides a softer feel underfoot and provides added acoustical and insulation benefits and longer wear life for the carpet. In some cases, the carpet cushion is attached to the carpet when it is manufactured. Also referred to as “padding” or “underlay,” although “cushion” is the preferred term. Cushion under most residential carpet should be a thickness of no greater than 7/16" and no less than 1/4" with 6 pound per cubic feet density. If the carpet is a Berber or a low profile carpet, choose a cushion of no more than 3/8" thickness with 8 pounds of density.
Cut Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.
Cut-Loop Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of a combination of cut ends of pile yarns and loops.
Delamination — Separation of the secondary backing or attached cushion from the primary backing of the carpet.
Density — Refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. In general, the denser the pile, the better the performance.
Dimensional Stability — The ability of the carpet to retain its original size and shape, e.g. a secondary backing adds dimensional stability to carpet.
Direct Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet is adhered to the floor.
Double Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet cushion is first adhered to the floor with an adhesive, and the carpet is then glued to the cushion.
Filament — A single continuous strand of natural or synthetic fiber.
Finished Yarn Weight —Yarn weight in ounces/square yard of a finished (after manufacturing process) carpet. The finished yarn weight is determined by removing all yarn from the finished carpet and dissolving any foreign non-yarn materials.
Fluffing — Appearance on carpet surface of loose fiber fragments left during manufacture; not a defect, but a characteristic that disappears after carpet use and vacuuming. Sometimes called “fuzzing” or “shedding.”
Frieze — Pronounced "free-zay," this tightly twisted yarn gives carpet a rough, nubby appearance.
Fuzzing — Hairy effect on fabric surface caused by fibers slipping out of the yarn with wear or wet cleaning.
Gauge — The distance between two needle points expressed in fractions of an inch. Applies to both knitting and tufting.
Hand — The tactile aesthetic qualities of carpet and textiles, how it feels to the hand.
Heat Setting— The process that sets the twist by heat or steam, enabling yarns to hold their twist over time. Important in cut pile carpet. Most nylon, olefin and polyester cut-pile carpet are heat-set.
Indoor/Outdoor Carpet — A term synonymous with outdoor carpet.
Level Loop — The pile loops are of substantially the same height and uncut, making a smooth, level surface.
Loop Pile — Carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. May be woven or tufted. Also called “round wire” in woven carpet terminology.
Luster — Brightness or sheen of fibers, yarns, carpet or fabrics.
Miter Joint — A junction of two pieces of carpet (or other material) at an angle. Most miter joints involve pieces at right angles to one another with their ends cut at 45 degrees to form the joint.
Pile — The visible surface of carpet consisting of yarn tufts in loop and/or cut configuration. Sometimes called “face” or “nap”.
Pile Crush — Loss of pile thickness due to compression and bending of tufts caused by traffic and heavy furniture. The tufts collapse into the air space between them. This may be irreversible if the yarn has inadequate resilience or the pile has insufficient density for the traffic load. Frequent vacuuming will lift the pile for longer carpet life.
Pilling — A condition of the carpet face (which may occur from heavy traffic) in which fibers from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming tangled masses of fibers. Pills may be cut off with scissors.
Plush — Luxuriously smooth-textured carpet surface in which individual tufts are only minimally visible and the overall visual effect is that of a single level of yarn ends. This finish is normally achieved only on cut-pile carpet produced from spun yarns by brushing and shearing. Sometimes called “velvet-plush.”
Ply — 1. A single-end component in a plied yarn. 2. The number that tells how many single ends have been ply-twisted together to form a plied yarn, e.g., two-ply or three-ply.
Power Stretcher — A carpet installation tool used to stretch carpet for installation with a tackless strip. According to industry standards, residential carpet, installed over A cushion with a tackless strip, must be power-stretched to prevent wrinkles and ripples.
Resilience — Ability of carpet pile or cushion to recover original appearance and thickness after being subjected to compressive forces or crushing under traffic.
Saxony — A cut-pile carpet texture with twisted yarns in a relatively dense, erect configuration. The effect is well-defined tuft tips.
Seams — In a carpet installation, the line formed by joining the edges of two pieces of carpet by the use of seaming tapes, hand sewing or other techniques.
Seam Sealing — A procedure in which a continuous bead of adhesive is applied to the trimmed edges of carpet to be joined at a seam. Seam sealing prevents fraying and unraveling at the seam.
Serging — A method of finishing edges of area rugs by use of heavy, colored yarn sewn around the edges in a close, overcast stitch.
Shading — A change in the appearance of a carpet due to localized distortions in the orientation of the fibers, tufts or loops. Shading is not a change in color or hue, but a difference in light reflection.
Sisal — A carpet style mimicking the woven look of rugs made from a natural plant fiber. The pattern has the appearance of interwoven webs but is created on a tufting machine by continually adjusting the height of each pile yarn.
Soil Retardant — A chemical finish applied to fibers or carpet surfaces that inhibit the attachment of soil.
Sprouting — Protrusion of individual tuft or yarn ends above the pile surface. May be clipped with scissors.
Staple — Short lengths of fiber that may be converted into spun yarns by textile yarn spinning processes. These spun yarns are also called “staple” yarns. For carpet yarns spun on the common, modified worsted systems, most staple is six to eight inches long. Staple fiber may also be converted directly into nonwoven fabrics, such as needle-punched carpet.
Stitches — Stitches per inch. Number of yarn tufts per running inch of a single tuft row in tufted carpet.
Stretch-In — Installation procedure for installing carpet over a separate cushion using a tackless strip; properly performed with a power stretcher.
Tackless Strip — Wood or metal strips fastened to the floor near the walls of a room containing either two or three rows of pins angled toward the walls on which the carpet backing is stretched and secured in a stretch-in installation.
Tuft Bind — Force required to pull a tuft from the carpet.
Tufted — Carpet manufactured by the insertion of tufts of yarn through a carpet-backing fabric, creating a pile surface of cut and/or loop ends.
Twist—- The winding of the yarn around itself. Should be neat and well defined. A tighter twist provides enhanced durability.
Underlay — Carpet cushion under rugs.
Woven — Carpet produced on a weaving loom in which the lengthwise yarns and widthwise yarns are interlaced to form the fabric, including the face and the backing.
Yarn Ply — The number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn.
Tips to Hire a Carpet Cleaning Company
Inviting a professional carpet cleaner into your home can be a tough decision. Looking for somebody who will take care of your carpets the way that you would doesn't always happen. You can improve your chances of finding the best carpet cleaning company in your area by making sure you get all the information you can ahead of time.
Make sure the company is certified. Certification ensures that your carpet cleaning professional has taken steps to educate themselves in the best carpet care and carpet cleaning techniques available. The largest is the Institute for Cleaning Restoration Certification (IICRC).
What kind of guarantee is offered? If there is a problem with the performance of the carpet cleaning professional, make sure the guarantee provides for a follow up cleaning at no charge. It is usually best to contact the professional right away as most guarantees last between 14-30 days.
Make sure to get a full list of services included in a price quote. It is best to have a list of all the basics steps the carpet cleaning professional will be performing such as pre-spraying or pre-treating the carpet and basic stain spotting. Find out ahead of time the charges for extra services such as such as pet odor removal or tough stain removals.
Who will be actually coming to your home and what are their qualifications? If employees come to clean your carpet important questions should be asked such as: do they wear uniforms? are all employees safely identifiable? does the company guarantee the work if it is a subcontractor?
Find out exactly what methods are used to clean your carpet. Understanding some basic differences in carpet cleaning techniques will help you to choose what is best for your carpet and ultimately who the best professional for the job is.
Steam cleaning may be best for those who suffer from asthma and allergies. With steam cleaning, you can get rid of most fungi, dust mites as well as viruses. It is recommended that you steam clean your carpets at least once every two years depending on how many people live in your household and how often they walk over a particular carpet.
Dry powder carpet cleaning is a method to clean your carpets without soaking them. A powder is spread onto your carpet, and is agitated and worked into the carpet with either an orbital floor machine with a round plastic bristle brush or a machine with counter rotating plastic brushes. This powder acts like thousands of little sponges scrubbing and absorbing dirt from the carpet as it is agitated. After the powder dries, in only a few minutes, the carpet is vacuumed to remove the sponges and the floor is ready to be used.
Shampoo cleaning, also referred to as encapsulation, involves the application of a shampoo to the carpet. This shampoo absorbs soil and then crystallizes. It is then agitated by a brush mounted on a floor machine and vacuumed up. Drying time is from one to two hours.
Now you know all the important questions to ask a carpet cleaning company before you sign any agreement with them. One last tip is to ask for references. If they do a good job, they won’t mind giving you references.
Good Luck
Wall Buddy
The Ultimate Solution in Corner Protection!
Do you have black marks on the corners of your walls and furniture? With the Wall Buddy you will never have to worry about that again. This cleaning tool is used by professional carpet cleaners to protect corners from those black hoses of the vacuum and any other cords that are pulled around in your home.
Who is the Wall Buddy for?
The Wall Buddy is for everyone who uses any type of cord or hose in your home. Your cleaning people, your carpet cleaner or any other professional who pulls a hose or cord through your home. Do you find that once you get the corners repainted or cleaned that the next time you turn around that there are black marks there again? Not if you use the Wall Buddy.
Who Developed the Wall Buddy?
The Wall Buddy was developed by a professional carpet cleaner who knew that there had to be a way to protect the corners of the walls and furniture in the homes he cleaned in. So after some thought he created the Wall Buddy and has found that it is the perfect housecleaning companion to protect those corners in every home. Hundreds of Thousands have been sold throughout the world to the carpet cleaner and now you, the home owner, can have it for your home.
How does it work?
The Wall Buddy is made from non-marking durable plastic. It makes a 45 degree angle and has a wide platform that fits snugly onto corners making a barrier between the wall and the hoses or cords. So now you don't have to be embarrassed of the corners in your home.
Do you have black marks on the corners of your walls and furniture? With the Wall Buddy you will never have to worry about that again. This cleaning tool is used by professional carpet cleaners to protect corners from those black hoses of the vacuum and any other cords that are pulled around in your home.
- The Wall Buddy protects all of the Corners of the walls and Furniture from marks made by vacuum cords, central vacuum hoses and any other cord of hose that you might pull around a corner.
- The Wall Buddy is made from a light weight non-marking durable plastic
- The Wall Buddy fits protectively over the corners of your walls and then stores nicely in the closet when you are done.
Who is the Wall Buddy for?
The Wall Buddy is for everyone who uses any type of cord or hose in your home. Your cleaning people, your carpet cleaner or any other professional who pulls a hose or cord through your home. Do you find that once you get the corners repainted or cleaned that the next time you turn around that there are black marks there again? Not if you use the Wall Buddy.
Who Developed the Wall Buddy?
The Wall Buddy was developed by a professional carpet cleaner who knew that there had to be a way to protect the corners of the walls and furniture in the homes he cleaned in. So after some thought he created the Wall Buddy and has found that it is the perfect housecleaning companion to protect those corners in every home. Hundreds of Thousands have been sold throughout the world to the carpet cleaner and now you, the home owner, can have it for your home.
How does it work?
The Wall Buddy is made from non-marking durable plastic. It makes a 45 degree angle and has a wide platform that fits snugly onto corners making a barrier between the wall and the hoses or cords. So now you don't have to be embarrassed of the corners in your home.
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