This is a great little video that we wanted to share with you about some of the carpet cleaning trade secrets!
Showing posts with label carpet cleaning techniques. Show all posts
Showing posts with label carpet cleaning techniques. Show all posts
Friday
How To Rent a Carpet Cleaning Machine
We've written about how to use the Carpet cleaners that you rent from the Supermarket. However, we decided to include this article about how to rent a carpet cleaning machine. It is a great outline to follow so you don't get home with your rented carpet cleaner and realize you forgot to pick something up!
However stain-resistant your carpet is, and how frequently you vacuum it, you would still need it to give it a deep cleaning at least once a year. Instead of hiring professional carpet cleaning services
to do it for you, you can actually rent a carpet cleaning
machine and do it yourself without costing you as much. Here are the five easy steps on your way to renting a carpet cleaning machine:
1. Find store. The first step is to find a grocery store or check with a local home depot if they rent carpet cleaners. Wherever you live, chances are there would be several close locations that provide carpet cleaning machine rentals. You can check the machine out for half a day, an entire day or for as long as you want and just pay the amount of time you have rented it out.
2. Choose carpet cleaner. In picking a carpet cleaner machine for rental, there are several thing you could try to inspect to get the best one. Make sure that you get clean equipment by checking the bristles, water tank and its attachments. Double check if it has clean upholstery also. A lot of people already might have used the machine to clean all sorts of things. You may also want to consider renting either a Bissell machine or a Hoover machine that are both known for their high efficiency.
3. Purchase supplies. Renting cleaning equipment more often than not does not include other cleaning materials and supplies. You would need to purchase these cleaning solutions and other supplies yourself. To ensure deep cleaning, you can buy a urine eliminator to remove human and animal urine stains on your carpet. For high traffic areas, you can also purchase a pre-treatment. Most importantly, you should ask the rental agent or look for the equipment machine instruction manual to give you an idea of the best cleaning solution that works with the machine.
4. Ask for instructions. Ask the carpet cleaner rental company for instructions on how to operate the machine. The establishment can either explain to you the information you need or you can bring the manual home and read it there. Not all carpet cleaning equipment works the same. That is why it would be wise to ask the rental agent for operational instructions, or better yet, request for a demonstration.
5. Pay the rental. Rental agreements and rates vary depending on the rental store you go to. Some may prefer up front payments while others would charge you when you return the carper cleaner. For up front payments, you would have to give the rental company a specific time frame you would have their equipment checked out. Otherwise, if you exceed the time frame you initially signed up for, you would have to pay extra for those excess hours. It would be better if you also consider giving yourself time to purchase the necessary supplies, time to figure out how the machine works, plus travel time going to and from the store. Sometimes, it takes more time than you think trying to work out what shampoo machine is.
These are the five easy steps to follow on how to rent a carpet cleaning machine.
You can find this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-rent-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
However stain-resistant your carpet is, and how frequently you vacuum it, you would still need it to give it a deep cleaning at least once a year. Instead of hiring professional carpet cleaning services
to do it for you, you can actually rent a carpet cleaning
machine and do it yourself without costing you as much. Here are the five easy steps on your way to renting a carpet cleaning machine:
1. Find store. The first step is to find a grocery store or check with a local home depot if they rent carpet cleaners. Wherever you live, chances are there would be several close locations that provide carpet cleaning machine rentals. You can check the machine out for half a day, an entire day or for as long as you want and just pay the amount of time you have rented it out.
2. Choose carpet cleaner. In picking a carpet cleaner machine for rental, there are several thing you could try to inspect to get the best one. Make sure that you get clean equipment by checking the bristles, water tank and its attachments. Double check if it has clean upholstery also. A lot of people already might have used the machine to clean all sorts of things. You may also want to consider renting either a Bissell machine or a Hoover machine that are both known for their high efficiency.
3. Purchase supplies. Renting cleaning equipment more often than not does not include other cleaning materials and supplies. You would need to purchase these cleaning solutions and other supplies yourself. To ensure deep cleaning, you can buy a urine eliminator to remove human and animal urine stains on your carpet. For high traffic areas, you can also purchase a pre-treatment. Most importantly, you should ask the rental agent or look for the equipment machine instruction manual to give you an idea of the best cleaning solution that works with the machine.
4. Ask for instructions. Ask the carpet cleaner rental company for instructions on how to operate the machine. The establishment can either explain to you the information you need or you can bring the manual home and read it there. Not all carpet cleaning equipment works the same. That is why it would be wise to ask the rental agent for operational instructions, or better yet, request for a demonstration.
5. Pay the rental. Rental agreements and rates vary depending on the rental store you go to. Some may prefer up front payments while others would charge you when you return the carper cleaner. For up front payments, you would have to give the rental company a specific time frame you would have their equipment checked out. Otherwise, if you exceed the time frame you initially signed up for, you would have to pay extra for those excess hours. It would be better if you also consider giving yourself time to purchase the necessary supplies, time to figure out how the machine works, plus travel time going to and from the store. Sometimes, it takes more time than you think trying to work out what shampoo machine is.
These are the five easy steps to follow on how to rent a carpet cleaning machine.
You can find this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-rent-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
Thursday
Carpet Cleaning with the Steam Cleaning RugDoctor
If you don't have a Carpet Cleaner you can always rent one from your local supermarket. Below is and article about how to Steam Clean your carpets with the Rug Doctors.
We found this great article at: http://prohowtos.ipower.com/content/carpet-cleaning-steam-cleaning-rugdoctor
If you've got pets or kids and your beautiful white or beige carpets have seen better days maybe it's time to rent a RugDoctor from your local supermarket!
These things are great, pick yourself up one of their bottles of carpet shampoo - a big bottle if you've got a lot of cleaning to do or you haven't cleaned in years. The machines rent at most supermarkets for under $40 in most cases. You can sometimes rent them in a 4 hour time block - but this is only for those of you who threw a party while your parents were gone and you've only got a few hours until they come home! Maybe if you only have one room with a carpet then this 4 hour period could be for you. But I still suggest renting it for over night.
Follow the directions completely before using. Make sure not to use any other soap then the soap that they provide. The reason for this is dish soap and other soaps will foam up and make a huge mess of everything, including the machine. Just fork out the extra money for the proper cleaner - it's worth it.
When the RugDoctor's water tank is filled with the cleaning solution and water, flip it on. Don't move to slow or to fast. Pretend your walking with a 2 year old for their first steps. Keep it moving and never stop in one spot with the machine on. The reason is that the jet that sprays water in the front. The agitator is in the middle and the vacuum is in the back. If you continue to spray water/steam without moving it will soak into your floors and could damage your sub floor. Start the spray when you start moving and finish spraying but continue to vacuum up the left over water.
You'll want to cover high traffic areas first. You'll more then likely need to go over these areas a few times. Every time you go over the carpet the steam will let more dirt free from the fibers - you can continue to clean until your dirt bucket is full or you're out of soap. If you clean on a regular basis you shouldn't need to pass more then 3 times on a high traffic carpet. If you don't clean regularly, you'll use up a bottle of the cleaner on just your hallway! I did this for a friend - they had not cleaned their carpets in over 8 years and the carpet stairs we're filthy and black water continued to come up after a dozen passes.
The unit comes with a hand wand - great for cleaning corners and edges of the carpets and even stair treads. Because you're not lugging around a big machine up the stairs I like to spray the step first from a 6 inch distance. Let it soak in for 15 seconds. Scrub it without the vacuum option on. Then finally vacuum it all up. If you're still seeing lots of dirt on the steps continue doing this until they are clean. Stairs will be the dirtiest area of your house.
Beyond cleaning your carpets this also works pretty well on ceramic tiles and linoleum - stay away from hardwood floors! For tiles simply do the same as you would with a carpet. I wouldn't rent one of these things just for your tile floor - it's just if you already have it and you are in the mood for cleaning.
Also, if you've got allergies to dust or pollen, make this a part of your spring cleaning every year - you'll notice a huge change in your symptoms with a dust free home. This is a must for carpet owners - think of your carpets as clothing on your floor - you walk on it, you sit on it and play on it. You've got to clean it once and a while too!
If you're concerned about the chemicals in the carpet cleaner - RugDoctor now offers a green line of cleaning products for your carpets. The carpet cleaner is an OXY product - safe for fumes and a powerful cleaner too. This product works just as well, if not better then the non green version! Try it out!
We found this great article at: http://prohowtos.ipower.com/content/carpet-cleaning-steam-cleaning-rugdoctor
If you've got pets or kids and your beautiful white or beige carpets have seen better days maybe it's time to rent a RugDoctor from your local supermarket!
These things are great, pick yourself up one of their bottles of carpet shampoo - a big bottle if you've got a lot of cleaning to do or you haven't cleaned in years. The machines rent at most supermarkets for under $40 in most cases. You can sometimes rent them in a 4 hour time block - but this is only for those of you who threw a party while your parents were gone and you've only got a few hours until they come home! Maybe if you only have one room with a carpet then this 4 hour period could be for you. But I still suggest renting it for over night.
Follow the directions completely before using. Make sure not to use any other soap then the soap that they provide. The reason for this is dish soap and other soaps will foam up and make a huge mess of everything, including the machine. Just fork out the extra money for the proper cleaner - it's worth it.
When the RugDoctor's water tank is filled with the cleaning solution and water, flip it on. Don't move to slow or to fast. Pretend your walking with a 2 year old for their first steps. Keep it moving and never stop in one spot with the machine on. The reason is that the jet that sprays water in the front. The agitator is in the middle and the vacuum is in the back. If you continue to spray water/steam without moving it will soak into your floors and could damage your sub floor. Start the spray when you start moving and finish spraying but continue to vacuum up the left over water.
You'll want to cover high traffic areas first. You'll more then likely need to go over these areas a few times. Every time you go over the carpet the steam will let more dirt free from the fibers - you can continue to clean until your dirt bucket is full or you're out of soap. If you clean on a regular basis you shouldn't need to pass more then 3 times on a high traffic carpet. If you don't clean regularly, you'll use up a bottle of the cleaner on just your hallway! I did this for a friend - they had not cleaned their carpets in over 8 years and the carpet stairs we're filthy and black water continued to come up after a dozen passes.
The unit comes with a hand wand - great for cleaning corners and edges of the carpets and even stair treads. Because you're not lugging around a big machine up the stairs I like to spray the step first from a 6 inch distance. Let it soak in for 15 seconds. Scrub it without the vacuum option on. Then finally vacuum it all up. If you're still seeing lots of dirt on the steps continue doing this until they are clean. Stairs will be the dirtiest area of your house.
Beyond cleaning your carpets this also works pretty well on ceramic tiles and linoleum - stay away from hardwood floors! For tiles simply do the same as you would with a carpet. I wouldn't rent one of these things just for your tile floor - it's just if you already have it and you are in the mood for cleaning.
Also, if you've got allergies to dust or pollen, make this a part of your spring cleaning every year - you'll notice a huge change in your symptoms with a dust free home. This is a must for carpet owners - think of your carpets as clothing on your floor - you walk on it, you sit on it and play on it. You've got to clean it once and a while too!
If you're concerned about the chemicals in the carpet cleaner - RugDoctor now offers a green line of cleaning products for your carpets. The carpet cleaner is an OXY product - safe for fumes and a powerful cleaner too. This product works just as well, if not better then the non green version! Try it out!
How Carpet is Made
We thought this was a great article to help you learn more about how your carpet is made, so that you will know the best way to take care of it!
We found this article at http://www.wfca.org/carpet/howmade.aspx.
Today’s healthiest carpets get plenty of fiber.
Fiber is the basic material that a carpet is made up of. Over ninety percent of all of the carpet made today is made up of synthetic fiber. The rest is natural fiber, most commonly wool. First, let’s look at the most common synthetic fibers.
Synthetic fibers are usually made up of one of three materials: nylon, polypropylene or polyester. All three are created by similar chemical processes using oil and natural gas.
You can rely on nylon.
70% of carpet today is made of nylon and, compared to the other fibers below, it performs the best overall. Nylon is the leader in: appearance retention, fade and heat resistance, soil and stain resistance, and color and styling. The highest performance nylon is Type 6.6, which has a tighter molecular construction, making the carpet more resistant to stain penetration.
Go slow, long word ahead.
The next most common material used in carpet manufacturing is polypropylene, also referred to as olefin. Introduced in the late 1950’s in Italy , polypropylene BCF has seen fast growth over the last twenty years, and today represents more than thirty percent of the total fibers used in the carpet industry.
While polypropylene is not as resilient or resistant to abrasion as nylon, it is naturally stain and fade resistant. Its natural resistance to moisture means that it must be dyed before being extruded, resulting in a more limited range of color options. Polypropylene is most often used in loop pile carpet constructions.
Does polyester suit you?
The third type of material commonly used in carpet manufacturing is polyester. Polyester was introduced to the carpet industry in the mid 1960’s, and has been well accepted for its bulkiness, color clarity, and good stain and fade resistance. While not as resilient as nylon, Polyester fiber carpet constructed with today’s new technologies can be a good performer.
The dyed-in-the-wool original.
The above three materials make up the majority of synthetic fibers. The other type of fiber used in carpet construction is staple fiber. While some synthetics are used in the creation of staple fibers, the original staple fiber used in the making of carpet is wool.
The wool used in today’s carpet comes primarily from New Zealand, Argentina, and the United Kingdom. Since wool is a natural fiber, it ranges in color from off-white to black, with many earthen tones between.
Berber, now considered a type of carpet construction, actually comes from the name of a group of North African sheepherders called the Berbers. The Berbers were known to produce very coarse wool, with characteristic color flecks in their yarns.
Although wool doesn’t stand up to abrasion and moisture as well as synthetics, it cleans well and is known to age gracefully. Wool is the most expensive carpet fiber, and represents less than one percent of the U.S. carpet market.
carpet fiber
The production of carpet, a 3-part epic.
There are basically three steps to manufacturing carpet. The first step is what is called tufting. Tufting begins with the process of weaving the synthetic or staple fiber into a primary backing material. The primary backing material is usually made of woven polypropylene, and its main value is to provide a base cloth to hold the yarn in place while the tufting happens.
The tufting machine looks like a really big sewing machine. It has anywhere from 800 to 2000 needles working in concert to pull the yarn through the primary backing material. The typical tufting machine sits about 12 feet wide, and as its needles penetrate the backing, a small hook called a looper grabs the yarn and holds it in place. This process results in what is called loop pile construction.
Loop pile products hold their appearance exceptionally well. Since there are no exposed yarn tips, only the sides of the yarn are exposed to wear and stress. Generally speaking, low profile loop carpet stands up to heavy traffic best.
Cut to the next scene.
In some carpet styles the looper then rocks back against a knife, where the small loops of yarn are cut, creating what we call a cut pile carpet. The length of these cut pieces of yarn is referred to as the pile height, and is basically the distance between the looper and the primary backing.
These precision cuts are controlled by a computer, and are sometimes programmed to cut only some of the loops. This method of selectively cutting, called cut and loop construction, creates a recognizable pattern on the surface of the carpet.
Now let’s pause in our construction story to identify and explain some terms and construction variables that you will encounter while making a carpet purchase decision.
Pile height, or nap, is the length of the tuft measured from the primary backing to the yarn tips. It’s usually shown as a fraction, or sometimes its decimal equivalent. Usually shorter pile heights are more durable than longer pile heights.
The stitch rate of a carpet is the measure of how close the yarns are together. Stitch rate is measured in penetrations, or tufts, in a given length of carpet, usually an inch. The stitch rate is controlled by how fast the carpet is moved through the tufting machine. Seven to eight tufts per inch is a good number, while three or four is pretty poor.
Face weight is determined by the actual amount of fiber per square yard, and is measured in ounces. A typical carpet may have a face weight of 35 to 45 ounces for example.
Finally, density is a measure of how tightly the yarn is stitched into the primary backing. Higher density carpet will typically wear better than low density carpet.
carpet binding
The second step of carpet manufacturing is to dye for.
Now the carpet is taken through one of two dyeing processes. The first method of dyeing is called yarn dyeing, or sometimes pre-dyeing, where the color is applied to the yarn prior to tufting.
The advantages of all yarn dyeing methods include good side-by-side color consistency, large lot sizes, and uniformity.
The second method involves applying color to the yarn after the carpet has been tufted. This method is called carpet dyeing. There are several carpet dyeing methods in use, each producing a unique end result.
The first technique, often referred to as Beck, or batch dyeing, involves stitching the ends of the carpet together, and then running the tufted carpet loop through large vats of dye and water for several hours. The Beck process is ideal for smaller production runs, and heavier face weight products.
Continuous dyeing is a similar process to Beck dyeing, but involves running the carpet through several processes in addition to just the dye application. Continuous dyeing applies the color directly to the carpet face by spraying or printing. This process is also used to create multicolor or patterned effects in the carpet.
Screen printing is another common method of carpet coloring, where color is applied through anywhere from one to as many as eight silk-screens.
The major benefits of carpet dyeing, that is dyeing the carpet after the tufting process, are greater color flexibility, and lower cost.
carpet dying
And the third and final manufacturing step is the finishing process.
This process is typically a single production line that completes the final stage of the carpet construction.
In the finishing process, a coating of latex is applied to both the tufted, dyed carpet’s primary backing, and also to secondary backing. Secondary backing is typically made of a woven synthetic polypropylene material. The two parts are squeezed together in a large heated press, where they are held firmly to preserve their shape.
Shearing, one of the last stages in the manufacture of carpet, is the process of removing all of the little loose ends and projecting fibers that might have been created during the tufting process. It also helps achieve the yarn’s tip definition of the finished carpet.
Finally, each carpet is carefully inspected for color uniformity and other manufacturing defects before it is rolled, wrapped, and shipped.
That’s the story on how carpet is made. We hope it helps you be a more savvy shopper. If anything, now you can throw the word “ polypropylene” around at the party to celebrate your home’s beautiful new carpeting.
We found this article at http://www.wfca.org/carpet/howmade.aspx.
Today’s healthiest carpets get plenty of fiber.
Fiber is the basic material that a carpet is made up of. Over ninety percent of all of the carpet made today is made up of synthetic fiber. The rest is natural fiber, most commonly wool. First, let’s look at the most common synthetic fibers.
Synthetic fibers are usually made up of one of three materials: nylon, polypropylene or polyester. All three are created by similar chemical processes using oil and natural gas.
You can rely on nylon.
70% of carpet today is made of nylon and, compared to the other fibers below, it performs the best overall. Nylon is the leader in: appearance retention, fade and heat resistance, soil and stain resistance, and color and styling. The highest performance nylon is Type 6.6, which has a tighter molecular construction, making the carpet more resistant to stain penetration.
Go slow, long word ahead.
The next most common material used in carpet manufacturing is polypropylene, also referred to as olefin. Introduced in the late 1950’s in Italy , polypropylene BCF has seen fast growth over the last twenty years, and today represents more than thirty percent of the total fibers used in the carpet industry.
While polypropylene is not as resilient or resistant to abrasion as nylon, it is naturally stain and fade resistant. Its natural resistance to moisture means that it must be dyed before being extruded, resulting in a more limited range of color options. Polypropylene is most often used in loop pile carpet constructions.
Does polyester suit you?
The third type of material commonly used in carpet manufacturing is polyester. Polyester was introduced to the carpet industry in the mid 1960’s, and has been well accepted for its bulkiness, color clarity, and good stain and fade resistance. While not as resilient as nylon, Polyester fiber carpet constructed with today’s new technologies can be a good performer.
The dyed-in-the-wool original.
The above three materials make up the majority of synthetic fibers. The other type of fiber used in carpet construction is staple fiber. While some synthetics are used in the creation of staple fibers, the original staple fiber used in the making of carpet is wool.
The wool used in today’s carpet comes primarily from New Zealand, Argentina, and the United Kingdom. Since wool is a natural fiber, it ranges in color from off-white to black, with many earthen tones between.
Berber, now considered a type of carpet construction, actually comes from the name of a group of North African sheepherders called the Berbers. The Berbers were known to produce very coarse wool, with characteristic color flecks in their yarns.
Although wool doesn’t stand up to abrasion and moisture as well as synthetics, it cleans well and is known to age gracefully. Wool is the most expensive carpet fiber, and represents less than one percent of the U.S. carpet market.
carpet fiber
The production of carpet, a 3-part epic.
There are basically three steps to manufacturing carpet. The first step is what is called tufting. Tufting begins with the process of weaving the synthetic or staple fiber into a primary backing material. The primary backing material is usually made of woven polypropylene, and its main value is to provide a base cloth to hold the yarn in place while the tufting happens.
The tufting machine looks like a really big sewing machine. It has anywhere from 800 to 2000 needles working in concert to pull the yarn through the primary backing material. The typical tufting machine sits about 12 feet wide, and as its needles penetrate the backing, a small hook called a looper grabs the yarn and holds it in place. This process results in what is called loop pile construction.
Loop pile products hold their appearance exceptionally well. Since there are no exposed yarn tips, only the sides of the yarn are exposed to wear and stress. Generally speaking, low profile loop carpet stands up to heavy traffic best.
Cut to the next scene.
In some carpet styles the looper then rocks back against a knife, where the small loops of yarn are cut, creating what we call a cut pile carpet. The length of these cut pieces of yarn is referred to as the pile height, and is basically the distance between the looper and the primary backing.
These precision cuts are controlled by a computer, and are sometimes programmed to cut only some of the loops. This method of selectively cutting, called cut and loop construction, creates a recognizable pattern on the surface of the carpet.
Now let’s pause in our construction story to identify and explain some terms and construction variables that you will encounter while making a carpet purchase decision.
Pile height, or nap, is the length of the tuft measured from the primary backing to the yarn tips. It’s usually shown as a fraction, or sometimes its decimal equivalent. Usually shorter pile heights are more durable than longer pile heights.
The stitch rate of a carpet is the measure of how close the yarns are together. Stitch rate is measured in penetrations, or tufts, in a given length of carpet, usually an inch. The stitch rate is controlled by how fast the carpet is moved through the tufting machine. Seven to eight tufts per inch is a good number, while three or four is pretty poor.
Face weight is determined by the actual amount of fiber per square yard, and is measured in ounces. A typical carpet may have a face weight of 35 to 45 ounces for example.
Finally, density is a measure of how tightly the yarn is stitched into the primary backing. Higher density carpet will typically wear better than low density carpet.
carpet binding
The second step of carpet manufacturing is to dye for.
Now the carpet is taken through one of two dyeing processes. The first method of dyeing is called yarn dyeing, or sometimes pre-dyeing, where the color is applied to the yarn prior to tufting.
The advantages of all yarn dyeing methods include good side-by-side color consistency, large lot sizes, and uniformity.
The second method involves applying color to the yarn after the carpet has been tufted. This method is called carpet dyeing. There are several carpet dyeing methods in use, each producing a unique end result.
The first technique, often referred to as Beck, or batch dyeing, involves stitching the ends of the carpet together, and then running the tufted carpet loop through large vats of dye and water for several hours. The Beck process is ideal for smaller production runs, and heavier face weight products.
Continuous dyeing is a similar process to Beck dyeing, but involves running the carpet through several processes in addition to just the dye application. Continuous dyeing applies the color directly to the carpet face by spraying or printing. This process is also used to create multicolor or patterned effects in the carpet.
Screen printing is another common method of carpet coloring, where color is applied through anywhere from one to as many as eight silk-screens.
The major benefits of carpet dyeing, that is dyeing the carpet after the tufting process, are greater color flexibility, and lower cost.
carpet dying
And the third and final manufacturing step is the finishing process.
This process is typically a single production line that completes the final stage of the carpet construction.
In the finishing process, a coating of latex is applied to both the tufted, dyed carpet’s primary backing, and also to secondary backing. Secondary backing is typically made of a woven synthetic polypropylene material. The two parts are squeezed together in a large heated press, where they are held firmly to preserve their shape.
Shearing, one of the last stages in the manufacture of carpet, is the process of removing all of the little loose ends and projecting fibers that might have been created during the tufting process. It also helps achieve the yarn’s tip definition of the finished carpet.
Finally, each carpet is carefully inspected for color uniformity and other manufacturing defects before it is rolled, wrapped, and shipped.
That’s the story on how carpet is made. We hope it helps you be a more savvy shopper. If anything, now you can throw the word “ polypropylene” around at the party to celebrate your home’s beautiful new carpeting.
Tuesday
Dirt Devil Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor SE3890 Review
We've heard about this Portable Extractor that is especially for cleaning up after pets, so we thought a review was in order to see what others thought about this product.
Although specifically designed for pet owners, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor SE3890 by Dirt Devil is sure to be a welcome addition to any stain-prone home.
If your carpets are the victims of pet stains, or if you find yourself playing "find that smell" when you search for hidden pet odors, this portable steam cleaner is a hardworking unit that will provide some relief. It can be used on carpets and upholstery, and performs equally well -- as long as the upholstery is spot-tested for durability first.
At first glance, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor seems larger than some portable steam vacuums, but its lightweight 10-pound design makes it easy to carry. The 3-inch brush is about the size we'd expect, but the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor offers one unique difference: a built-in blacklight that illuminates hidden pet stains. This integrated blacklight shines from the underside of the brush, indicating where pet stains are located -- even if they can't be seen under normal lighting conditions. Knowing where the pet stains are located is sometimes half the battle, and once they are discovered, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor does an admirable job of removing them. It has a 56-ounce tank and a 4-foot reach on the combination hose/hand tool. Although the 3 amps of power seem adequate, we question whether more power would improve suction. The Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor has decent suction, but we'd like to have seen a bit more power.
We like the 15-foot power cord, which gives plenty of room to move around most rooms. The onboard hose, tool and cord storage work well. The initial purchase includes Dirt Devil cleaning solution, so you can begin cleaning right away. It has dual, interlocking tanks to hold clean water and dirty water. The tanks are view-through, making it easy to see how much clean solution remains.
The Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor is often categorized as a steam cleaner, but unlike true steam cleaners, we found it necessary to use hot water for maximum effectiveness. The trial-size cleaning solutions that are included work well, and smell nice, which is certainly an upgrade from the odor of any pet-stained area in question. Overall, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor has a serious moniker that matches its hardworking capabilities. Even though we'd make a few improvements, like adding more power or true steam generation, it works well -- whether used on pet stains or ordinary spots.
Pros: Blacklight LED illuminates hidden pet stains, use on carpets or upholstery
Cons: Not a true steam machine
You can view this and other great reviews at: http://products.howstuffworks.com/dirt-devil-purpose-for-pets-portable-extractor-se3890-review.htm
Although specifically designed for pet owners, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor SE3890 by Dirt Devil is sure to be a welcome addition to any stain-prone home.
If your carpets are the victims of pet stains, or if you find yourself playing "find that smell" when you search for hidden pet odors, this portable steam cleaner is a hardworking unit that will provide some relief. It can be used on carpets and upholstery, and performs equally well -- as long as the upholstery is spot-tested for durability first.
At first glance, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor seems larger than some portable steam vacuums, but its lightweight 10-pound design makes it easy to carry. The 3-inch brush is about the size we'd expect, but the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor offers one unique difference: a built-in blacklight that illuminates hidden pet stains. This integrated blacklight shines from the underside of the brush, indicating where pet stains are located -- even if they can't be seen under normal lighting conditions. Knowing where the pet stains are located is sometimes half the battle, and once they are discovered, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor does an admirable job of removing them. It has a 56-ounce tank and a 4-foot reach on the combination hose/hand tool. Although the 3 amps of power seem adequate, we question whether more power would improve suction. The Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor has decent suction, but we'd like to have seen a bit more power.
We like the 15-foot power cord, which gives plenty of room to move around most rooms. The onboard hose, tool and cord storage work well. The initial purchase includes Dirt Devil cleaning solution, so you can begin cleaning right away. It has dual, interlocking tanks to hold clean water and dirty water. The tanks are view-through, making it easy to see how much clean solution remains.
The Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor is often categorized as a steam cleaner, but unlike true steam cleaners, we found it necessary to use hot water for maximum effectiveness. The trial-size cleaning solutions that are included work well, and smell nice, which is certainly an upgrade from the odor of any pet-stained area in question. Overall, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor has a serious moniker that matches its hardworking capabilities. Even though we'd make a few improvements, like adding more power or true steam generation, it works well -- whether used on pet stains or ordinary spots.
Pros: Blacklight LED illuminates hidden pet stains, use on carpets or upholstery
Cons: Not a true steam machine
You can view this and other great reviews at: http://products.howstuffworks.com/dirt-devil-purpose-for-pets-portable-extractor-se3890-review.htm
Saturday
How To Use a Carpet Cleaning Machine
If you have carpeted floors, it is advisable to clean the carpet every so often so that the dust and dirt do not accumulate under the carpet fibers. You can clean the carpet by using a cleaning machine that is especially designed to clean carpets
. You can use an ordinary carpet cleaner or a carpet steam cleaner
. Cleaning your carpet will not only get rid of dust, it will make your carpet appear good as new and it will last longer.
Here are the steps for using a carpet cleaning machine to clean your carpet:
1. Materials. First, gather all the clean equipment that you need for cleaning the carpet. The things that you will need are a cleaning solution, a Hoover machine or a vacuum cleaner, a carpet cleaner, and a carpet grooming brush. Using the vacuum is optional but it will make the carpet easier to clean.
2. Preparation. Before starting the cleaning process, you have to remove all the furniture and objects that are in the carpeted room that you are going to clean. If your entire house is carpeted, it is not advisable to clean all the rooms at the same time. You can clean the rooms one by one so that you can place the furniture in different rooms when cleaning. Use the vacuum on the carpet to remove the dust and dirt particles that are loose on the carpet.
3. Soaping. When you have finished vacuuming the carpet, get the cleaning solution and dilute it with water according to the instructions. Put this mixture inside the tank of the carpet cleaning machine. Turn on the switch of the cleaner and run it over the carpeted area. Be careful not to overstay on one area as this will make the carpet too wet with the solution. Allow the solution to settle on the carpet for at least ten minutes.
4. Cleaning. After ten minutes, you can release the lever for water to clean the carpet. When the lever is released, the carpet cleaner then removes the dirt from your carpet. Pull the cleaning machine towards you as you clean the carpet. Do this until you have finished cleaning the entire carpeted area. You can put fans inside the room to help the carpet dry more quickly.
5. Finishing. Do another run of vacuuming on the carpet when it is completely dry. This will remove excess dirt that has not been removed by the carpet cleaner. After you have finished, use the carpet grooming brush to fix the fibers of the carpet. Brush the fibers in one direction to get the best results.
These are the simple steps for using a carpet cleaning machine to clean your carpet. If you are looking for a vacuum or a cleaning machine to clean upholstery and carpets, you can look at Bissell. Bissell is a company that manufactures and sells cleaning solutions and machines that you can use for cleaning your house and furniture.
You can view this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-use-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
. You can use an ordinary carpet cleaner or a carpet steam cleaner
. Cleaning your carpet will not only get rid of dust, it will make your carpet appear good as new and it will last longer.
Here are the steps for using a carpet cleaning machine to clean your carpet:
1. Materials. First, gather all the clean equipment that you need for cleaning the carpet. The things that you will need are a cleaning solution, a Hoover machine or a vacuum cleaner, a carpet cleaner, and a carpet grooming brush. Using the vacuum is optional but it will make the carpet easier to clean.
2. Preparation. Before starting the cleaning process, you have to remove all the furniture and objects that are in the carpeted room that you are going to clean. If your entire house is carpeted, it is not advisable to clean all the rooms at the same time. You can clean the rooms one by one so that you can place the furniture in different rooms when cleaning. Use the vacuum on the carpet to remove the dust and dirt particles that are loose on the carpet.
3. Soaping. When you have finished vacuuming the carpet, get the cleaning solution and dilute it with water according to the instructions. Put this mixture inside the tank of the carpet cleaning machine. Turn on the switch of the cleaner and run it over the carpeted area. Be careful not to overstay on one area as this will make the carpet too wet with the solution. Allow the solution to settle on the carpet for at least ten minutes.
4. Cleaning. After ten minutes, you can release the lever for water to clean the carpet. When the lever is released, the carpet cleaner then removes the dirt from your carpet. Pull the cleaning machine towards you as you clean the carpet. Do this until you have finished cleaning the entire carpeted area. You can put fans inside the room to help the carpet dry more quickly.
5. Finishing. Do another run of vacuuming on the carpet when it is completely dry. This will remove excess dirt that has not been removed by the carpet cleaner. After you have finished, use the carpet grooming brush to fix the fibers of the carpet. Brush the fibers in one direction to get the best results.
These are the simple steps for using a carpet cleaning machine to clean your carpet. If you are looking for a vacuum or a cleaning machine to clean upholstery and carpets, you can look at Bissell. Bissell is a company that manufactures and sells cleaning solutions and machines that you can use for cleaning your house and furniture.
You can view this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-use-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
Monday
Homemade Carpet Cleaners
We found a great website that had some homemade carpet cleaning recipes that we will be featuring over the next couple of days.
The first is Homemade Carpet Cleaner:
* 1 quart water
* 1 tablespoon white vinegar
* 1 tablespoon liquid dish soap
Mix the ingredients together in a spray bottle, or use a bucket for a larger batch to fill the carpet cleaning machine.
Vacuum carpets before using this cleaner. Spray solution on any dirty spots and work it in with a soft brush. Let sit for 10 minutes. Wipe the area with a moistened cleaning cloth, then dry with a dry cleaning cloth. Allow to fully dry before walking on the area.
You can skip ahead and view all of the recipes at http://www.house-cleaning-howtos.com/homemade-carpet-cleaner.html
The first is Homemade Carpet Cleaner:
* 1 quart water
* 1 tablespoon white vinegar
* 1 tablespoon liquid dish soap
Mix the ingredients together in a spray bottle, or use a bucket for a larger batch to fill the carpet cleaning machine.
Vacuum carpets before using this cleaner. Spray solution on any dirty spots and work it in with a soft brush. Let sit for 10 minutes. Wipe the area with a moistened cleaning cloth, then dry with a dry cleaning cloth. Allow to fully dry before walking on the area.
You can skip ahead and view all of the recipes at http://www.house-cleaning-howtos.com/homemade-carpet-cleaner.html
Vacuuming Tips to Clean Carpets
How To Vacuum: Vacuuming Your Carpet Like A Pro
I read someplace the other day about "How To Vacuum". The instructions said, "First, get your vacuum." Wow! That's probably the best advice you'll ever get! Actually, before I drag my vacuum out, there are a few other things I do first.
* Do a walk-through of your carpeted areas picking up clutter and any large pieces of debris that your vacuum cannot suck up such as leaves from shedding house plants, small toys, paper clips, anything that is obvious.
* If you have a hand carpet sweeper, give the carpet a quick "pick-me-up". You may be able to avoid having to use your heavier vacuum cleaner this time.
* Use an anti-static spray on your dust mop or dust rag and run around the baseboard where dust collects next to the carpet..
* Most vacuums will not get right up to the edge where wall meets floor, so use a good stiff broom with some elbow grease and give that area a good sweeping before you vacuum.
Vacuum Cleaning 101
Basic house cleaning rules tell you to begin on the top, at the back. That means, if you have more than a one story home, start on the top level in the room furthest from the stairwell. Since vacuuming is the job you should do last in any room, you should already have picked up clutter and put things away, removed cobwebs, dusted and polished furniture.
In areas where you use "throw" or "scatter" rugs, pick them up and shake them out-of-doors. Then fold them neatly, place on the side of the tub or on a chair until you are ready to put them back on the floor.
Draperies and furniture should be vacuumed first.
Consider the furniture that needs moved in order to do a thorough vacuuming and move it. You'll find it appropriate to move chairs and smaller tables into a central area, and then vacuum as close to the edge of the room and up to the furniture as possible. Reach under beds, couches and dressers as far as you can.
Replace the furniture and begin vacuuming in the corner that is farthest from the door and work towards the door, using gliding, even strokes, backing to the door. As you look over the freshly vacuumed floor, you should see no footprints.
"B" Is For Bathroom
Cleaning bathrooms can be tricky, as it may be partially or fully carpeted. If they are covered wall-to-wall, start behind the toilet and work your way through the room. Close yourself inside the bathroom and get behind the door, the edges of the cabinets, bathtub and shower. Again, this is a room that benefits from going around the edges with a stiff broom as hair and powders can be hard to vacuum.
Vacuum all the bathrooms first. Start behind the toilet, vacuum the floor. Do not forget behind the door, and along the edges of the cabinets and bathtubs. Make sure you get up all the hair and dust off the floor. Watch out for any standing water on the floor!
Moving Right Along ...
Make every motion count. Never use a power head on uncarpeted floors. Never use the upright to do stairs..
After all of the rooms are vacuumed, it's time do the hallway. Begin in the area furthest from the stairs and work your way backward to the top of the stair well. (Look behind yourself often!) A canister vacuum works best on stairs because you can use the wand.
If your home is only one level, you are probably ready to put your feet up and relax. That is, unless you have carpet in your kitchen that needs vacuumed. If not, you may have throw rugs that need to be shaken well and/or laundered. If they are small enough, these benefit from being tossed into the dryer with a fabric softener tissue and an old, clean pair of tennis shoes, then tumbled with low or no heat. The fabric softener freshens the fabric and the shoes work as a beater, fluffing the nap and removing lint.
Damp mop all remaining washable, hard-surfaced floors and NOW relax!
Vacuum Cleaners and Attachments
* Your vacuum is one of the most versatile, useful home appliances you'll ever own. Here are some suggestions on how to make your cleaning chores a little easier.
* When purchasing a new vacuum, make sure it has a powerful motor. Compare to the other models, and pick the one with the highest strength. The power is in direct proportion to the amount of dirt it will remove from your carpet in one or two passes.
* Compare manufacturers and read the warranty. If possible, select one that has a local authorized dealer and repair facility.
* Take a good look at the attachments. Unless you are willing to drag all the heads, wands and hoses along, and use them every time you get the vacuum out, don't be influenced by the marketing hype. Less is best.
* Overall, speaking as a professional (we are a maid service, remember?), we have found that heavier vacuums hold up better in the long run. Our vacuums really get a workout - several times a day.
To View this Article from Mrs. Clean USA Click Here
I read someplace the other day about "How To Vacuum". The instructions said, "First, get your vacuum." Wow! That's probably the best advice you'll ever get! Actually, before I drag my vacuum out, there are a few other things I do first.
* Do a walk-through of your carpeted areas picking up clutter and any large pieces of debris that your vacuum cannot suck up such as leaves from shedding house plants, small toys, paper clips, anything that is obvious.
* If you have a hand carpet sweeper, give the carpet a quick "pick-me-up". You may be able to avoid having to use your heavier vacuum cleaner this time.
* Use an anti-static spray on your dust mop or dust rag and run around the baseboard where dust collects next to the carpet..
* Most vacuums will not get right up to the edge where wall meets floor, so use a good stiff broom with some elbow grease and give that area a good sweeping before you vacuum.
Vacuum Cleaning 101
Basic house cleaning rules tell you to begin on the top, at the back. That means, if you have more than a one story home, start on the top level in the room furthest from the stairwell. Since vacuuming is the job you should do last in any room, you should already have picked up clutter and put things away, removed cobwebs, dusted and polished furniture.
In areas where you use "throw" or "scatter" rugs, pick them up and shake them out-of-doors. Then fold them neatly, place on the side of the tub or on a chair until you are ready to put them back on the floor.
Draperies and furniture should be vacuumed first.
Consider the furniture that needs moved in order to do a thorough vacuuming and move it. You'll find it appropriate to move chairs and smaller tables into a central area, and then vacuum as close to the edge of the room and up to the furniture as possible. Reach under beds, couches and dressers as far as you can.
Replace the furniture and begin vacuuming in the corner that is farthest from the door and work towards the door, using gliding, even strokes, backing to the door. As you look over the freshly vacuumed floor, you should see no footprints.
"B" Is For Bathroom
Cleaning bathrooms can be tricky, as it may be partially or fully carpeted. If they are covered wall-to-wall, start behind the toilet and work your way through the room. Close yourself inside the bathroom and get behind the door, the edges of the cabinets, bathtub and shower. Again, this is a room that benefits from going around the edges with a stiff broom as hair and powders can be hard to vacuum.
Vacuum all the bathrooms first. Start behind the toilet, vacuum the floor. Do not forget behind the door, and along the edges of the cabinets and bathtubs. Make sure you get up all the hair and dust off the floor. Watch out for any standing water on the floor!
Moving Right Along ...
Make every motion count. Never use a power head on uncarpeted floors. Never use the upright to do stairs..
After all of the rooms are vacuumed, it's time do the hallway. Begin in the area furthest from the stairs and work your way backward to the top of the stair well. (Look behind yourself often!) A canister vacuum works best on stairs because you can use the wand.
If your home is only one level, you are probably ready to put your feet up and relax. That is, unless you have carpet in your kitchen that needs vacuumed. If not, you may have throw rugs that need to be shaken well and/or laundered. If they are small enough, these benefit from being tossed into the dryer with a fabric softener tissue and an old, clean pair of tennis shoes, then tumbled with low or no heat. The fabric softener freshens the fabric and the shoes work as a beater, fluffing the nap and removing lint.
Damp mop all remaining washable, hard-surfaced floors and NOW relax!
Vacuum Cleaners and Attachments
* Your vacuum is one of the most versatile, useful home appliances you'll ever own. Here are some suggestions on how to make your cleaning chores a little easier.
* When purchasing a new vacuum, make sure it has a powerful motor. Compare to the other models, and pick the one with the highest strength. The power is in direct proportion to the amount of dirt it will remove from your carpet in one or two passes.
* Compare manufacturers and read the warranty. If possible, select one that has a local authorized dealer and repair facility.
* Take a good look at the attachments. Unless you are willing to drag all the heads, wands and hoses along, and use them every time you get the vacuum out, don't be influenced by the marketing hype. Less is best.
* Overall, speaking as a professional (we are a maid service, remember?), we have found that heavier vacuums hold up better in the long run. Our vacuums really get a workout - several times a day.
To View this Article from Mrs. Clean USA Click Here
Wednesday
Remove Bleach Spots from Carpet
We thought this was a great little tip on how to remove bleach spots from your carpet!
Spills happen during the daily laundry dash, especially when kids get into the washing machine action. And bleach, that must-have for truly white whites, makes for a fierce stain. You can, however, banish such blights from your carpet if you act quickly.
1. Wear rubber or latex gloves. Blot the excess bleach with a white absorbent cloth or paper towel.
2. Blot-rinse with water.
3. Gently blot detergent solution of 1/4 tsp. mild dishwashing liquid and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) warm water onto the stain, using a clean cloth or paper towel. Work from the stain's outside edge to the center.
4. Let the detergent sit for at least 5 minutes.
5. Repeat blotting with a clean white cloth until no more of the bleach transfers to the cloth and the bleach smell is nearly gone.
6. Rinse thoroughly with cold water.
Click Here to View this Article on Ehow.com
Spills happen during the daily laundry dash, especially when kids get into the washing machine action. And bleach, that must-have for truly white whites, makes for a fierce stain. You can, however, banish such blights from your carpet if you act quickly.
1. Wear rubber or latex gloves. Blot the excess bleach with a white absorbent cloth or paper towel.
2. Blot-rinse with water.
3. Gently blot detergent solution of 1/4 tsp. mild dishwashing liquid and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) warm water onto the stain, using a clean cloth or paper towel. Work from the stain's outside edge to the center.
4. Let the detergent sit for at least 5 minutes.
5. Repeat blotting with a clean white cloth until no more of the bleach transfers to the cloth and the bleach smell is nearly gone.
6. Rinse thoroughly with cold water.
Click Here to View this Article on Ehow.com
Deodorizing Carpets
Carpet Odor Control Tips
Carpets are a wonderful addition to the comfort and appearance of your home but they attract dirt and odors like magnets.
You can clean up the surface appearance of the carpet with a quick superficial sweeping with a broom, or a carpet sweeper or dragging out the heavy-duty vacuum with the 30 foot cord and shoving it around on the carpets for an hour. You'll wind up with a carpet that looks cared for - maybe even looks almost new, but still does not smell to good.
Nobody wants to replace carpet that looks perfectly good, has no worn spots or holes, isn't faded. But what in the world do you do if you can't remove the odors that you smell every time you walk into the room?
If the carpeting has been overly dampened, or is in a high humidity environment, or was poorly dried after shampooing, mildew or mold is probably your problem with smell.
If this is the case, you can use a special deodorizing solution available in the grocery store or try using plain water mixed with 20% plain white vinegar. Shampoo the carpets again, dry them thoroughly. (open windows, doors, and use a fan if necessary to remove any water remaining and your carpets will smell fresh and clean when dried.
Deodorizing Smoke Odors From Carpets
First of all, if someone is smoking inside the house, encourage them to smoke outside - You cannot keep your carpet deodorized and odor control wont help if the source continues the infiltration.
* Buy a large box of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda.
* Empty it into a large shaker jar, like the kind you use for shaking out ground Parmesan cheese.
* Using a liberal hand, walk around your carpet shaking the baking soda onto the carpet.
* With a corn straw broom, brush the baking soda into the nap of the carpeting making sure it gets into the fibers.
* Leave on overnight.
* In the morning, give the carpet a deep vacuuming, going over it several times to pick up as much of the baking soda as possible.
Deodorizing Carpets Due to Cat, Dog And Puppy Urine
Oh, oh! You open the front door to your home one evening and the smell hits you square in the face.
Those animals you love, the dogs, the cats, kittens, puppies, are little poop and pee machines! Even though you've picked up the waste - when you saw it - the memory lingers on. And wet urine stains often sink right in without being discovered at all, unless they leave a stain and/or begin to stink! You may try the above simple fix with baking soda for deodorizing the carpet, but - rest assured - that is not going to do the job.
Here are serious odor control tips to help you.
* Sprinkle the carpet generously with baking soda, and brush in. Allow to set for a few hours, overnight if possible.
* Then vacuum thoroughly and get ready to give the carpet a good shampooing with a steam cleaner.
* You will not be able to vacuum out all of the baking soda and that's okay.
* The residue will mix with the water in the cleaning solution and help sweeten and remove the odor.
* Either use the cleaning solution that is recommended for your particular brand of steam carpet cleaner, or buy one that is compatible off the shelf; look for one that specifically states it has odor removing properties.
* Note that you should not use any detergent/soap when steam cleaning. The soap residue is impossible to remove and will end up attracting more dirt.
* Follow manufacturer's recommended instructions for steam cleaning your carpet and allow to dry thoroughly before vacuuming.
You'll be pleased at the freshness of your home once the job is done and you are finished deodorizing your carpet!
Click Here to Read Article on Mrs. Clean USA
Carpets are a wonderful addition to the comfort and appearance of your home but they attract dirt and odors like magnets.
You can clean up the surface appearance of the carpet with a quick superficial sweeping with a broom, or a carpet sweeper or dragging out the heavy-duty vacuum with the 30 foot cord and shoving it around on the carpets for an hour. You'll wind up with a carpet that looks cared for - maybe even looks almost new, but still does not smell to good.
Nobody wants to replace carpet that looks perfectly good, has no worn spots or holes, isn't faded. But what in the world do you do if you can't remove the odors that you smell every time you walk into the room?
If the carpeting has been overly dampened, or is in a high humidity environment, or was poorly dried after shampooing, mildew or mold is probably your problem with smell.
If this is the case, you can use a special deodorizing solution available in the grocery store or try using plain water mixed with 20% plain white vinegar. Shampoo the carpets again, dry them thoroughly. (open windows, doors, and use a fan if necessary to remove any water remaining and your carpets will smell fresh and clean when dried.
Deodorizing Smoke Odors From Carpets
First of all, if someone is smoking inside the house, encourage them to smoke outside - You cannot keep your carpet deodorized and odor control wont help if the source continues the infiltration.
* Buy a large box of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda.
* Empty it into a large shaker jar, like the kind you use for shaking out ground Parmesan cheese.
* Using a liberal hand, walk around your carpet shaking the baking soda onto the carpet.
* With a corn straw broom, brush the baking soda into the nap of the carpeting making sure it gets into the fibers.
* Leave on overnight.
* In the morning, give the carpet a deep vacuuming, going over it several times to pick up as much of the baking soda as possible.
Deodorizing Carpets Due to Cat, Dog And Puppy Urine
Oh, oh! You open the front door to your home one evening and the smell hits you square in the face.
Those animals you love, the dogs, the cats, kittens, puppies, are little poop and pee machines! Even though you've picked up the waste - when you saw it - the memory lingers on. And wet urine stains often sink right in without being discovered at all, unless they leave a stain and/or begin to stink! You may try the above simple fix with baking soda for deodorizing the carpet, but - rest assured - that is not going to do the job.
Here are serious odor control tips to help you.
* Sprinkle the carpet generously with baking soda, and brush in. Allow to set for a few hours, overnight if possible.
* Then vacuum thoroughly and get ready to give the carpet a good shampooing with a steam cleaner.
* You will not be able to vacuum out all of the baking soda and that's okay.
* The residue will mix with the water in the cleaning solution and help sweeten and remove the odor.
* Either use the cleaning solution that is recommended for your particular brand of steam carpet cleaner, or buy one that is compatible off the shelf; look for one that specifically states it has odor removing properties.
* Note that you should not use any detergent/soap when steam cleaning. The soap residue is impossible to remove and will end up attracting more dirt.
* Follow manufacturer's recommended instructions for steam cleaning your carpet and allow to dry thoroughly before vacuuming.
You'll be pleased at the freshness of your home once the job is done and you are finished deodorizing your carpet!
Click Here to Read Article on Mrs. Clean USA
Monday
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Do your carpets look old and run down, even after shampooing and cleaning...we found a few tips below to help your carpet shine.
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Remember when the carpet in your living room or bedroom was new? Remember how you admired it, and even invited your friends to admire it with you? Since then, it's no doubt taken quite a beating. Cigarettes have burned it and kids have run over it, tracking in mud and snagging it. The dog or cat has dirtied it up, and probably everyone in the family has spilled a drink on it a time or two. Unfortunately, replacing that carpet (and sometimes even a rug) can cost a lot of money. But what can you do, then, to bring back some of your carpet or rug's former glory?
Believe it or not, plenty! There are things you can do to fix those damaged spots. Let's talk about just a few of them.
1) Dropping cigarette or cigar ashes or stubs onto the carpet can be devastating. Once they touch, if you don't pick them up fast, they can cause permanent scarring. If you have a spot on your carpet that was once the victim of such an incident, take a look at it. As long as the burn did not go all the way through, you can get rid of the burnt spot by simply cutting it off with a pair of scissors. If, however, the burn is a bit too severe for this, measure how big the spot is. Now find some unneeded carpet from the same lot. For instance, maybe you've carpeted inside your closet with the same carpet. Cut enough for the spot, plus an extra half inch or so. Now you can simply cut out the burnt spot and replace it with the bit you took from the closet carpet. Remember, it's important to have a tight fit so that nobody will be able to tell that there is a hole there. Use carpet glue on the bottom of the plug, and then set something heavy on top of it overnight. If you've done this right, the formerly-burnt spot will look good as noon come morning.
2) Another common carpet problem is carpet fuzziness. This happens as the carpet's surface begins to get worn down and the rug fibers break. Also, as more and more grit and grime gets embedded, it speeds along the fuzz syndrome. over time, the carpet will lose many of its fibers. Much of the grime can be cleaned out with a to-quality vacuum. Then with a pair of scissors, you can get often even out the uneven rug fibers that normally accompany "the fuzzies."
3) Snagging is another problem that makes many carpets look old and worn. The most common causes for snagging are sliding large items across the floor rather than lifting them, as well as from scuffing from shoes and animal claws. You can easily correct snags with a pair of sharp scissors. Unfortunately, most people make the mistake of trying to pull on the thread, but this will only cause a run in the carpet. Remember: scissors not fingers.
4) If your carpet is stained by spills, remember that time is of the essence. Clean it immediately. Start by dabbing the stain gently with a wet sponge;; do not rub the stain. Now find something with a dull edge and scrape up any excess soil. After you've done all you can, use a commercial-strength carpet and rug cleaner. Test it first on an unseen spot (such as the carpet in your closet). If it does not cause discoloration, it's safe to use. Now dab some of it onto a dry cloth, and apply it to the stain. Use a gentle swiping motion, not too brisk. If the stain is still not gone, contact a professional carpet cleaner.
You can read the entire article from ehomeimprovement.org here
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Remember when the carpet in your living room or bedroom was new? Remember how you admired it, and even invited your friends to admire it with you? Since then, it's no doubt taken quite a beating. Cigarettes have burned it and kids have run over it, tracking in mud and snagging it. The dog or cat has dirtied it up, and probably everyone in the family has spilled a drink on it a time or two. Unfortunately, replacing that carpet (and sometimes even a rug) can cost a lot of money. But what can you do, then, to bring back some of your carpet or rug's former glory?
Believe it or not, plenty! There are things you can do to fix those damaged spots. Let's talk about just a few of them.
1) Dropping cigarette or cigar ashes or stubs onto the carpet can be devastating. Once they touch, if you don't pick them up fast, they can cause permanent scarring. If you have a spot on your carpet that was once the victim of such an incident, take a look at it. As long as the burn did not go all the way through, you can get rid of the burnt spot by simply cutting it off with a pair of scissors. If, however, the burn is a bit too severe for this, measure how big the spot is. Now find some unneeded carpet from the same lot. For instance, maybe you've carpeted inside your closet with the same carpet. Cut enough for the spot, plus an extra half inch or so. Now you can simply cut out the burnt spot and replace it with the bit you took from the closet carpet. Remember, it's important to have a tight fit so that nobody will be able to tell that there is a hole there. Use carpet glue on the bottom of the plug, and then set something heavy on top of it overnight. If you've done this right, the formerly-burnt spot will look good as noon come morning.
2) Another common carpet problem is carpet fuzziness. This happens as the carpet's surface begins to get worn down and the rug fibers break. Also, as more and more grit and grime gets embedded, it speeds along the fuzz syndrome. over time, the carpet will lose many of its fibers. Much of the grime can be cleaned out with a to-quality vacuum. Then with a pair of scissors, you can get often even out the uneven rug fibers that normally accompany "the fuzzies."
3) Snagging is another problem that makes many carpets look old and worn. The most common causes for snagging are sliding large items across the floor rather than lifting them, as well as from scuffing from shoes and animal claws. You can easily correct snags with a pair of sharp scissors. Unfortunately, most people make the mistake of trying to pull on the thread, but this will only cause a run in the carpet. Remember: scissors not fingers.
4) If your carpet is stained by spills, remember that time is of the essence. Clean it immediately. Start by dabbing the stain gently with a wet sponge;; do not rub the stain. Now find something with a dull edge and scrape up any excess soil. After you've done all you can, use a commercial-strength carpet and rug cleaner. Test it first on an unseen spot (such as the carpet in your closet). If it does not cause discoloration, it's safe to use. Now dab some of it onto a dry cloth, and apply it to the stain. Use a gentle swiping motion, not too brisk. If the stain is still not gone, contact a professional carpet cleaner.
You can read the entire article from ehomeimprovement.org here
Thursday
Which Type of Flooring Should I Choose Part 1
This article contains a lot of information about what type of flooring option may be best for your home!
Which Room Will it Be In
Each room in the house serves specific functions that require you to think about function as well as fashion.
Kitchens
* High traffic and dirt from the outside entry door.
* Spills are common from cooking, so floors must be easy to clean.
* Non-slip flooring is necessary for safety purposes.
Possible Solutions:
* Vinyl is a good choice for kitchen floors. In the event of a dropped glass or dish, a resilient floor like vinyl has more bounce and may prevent breakage. Remember, a deeply textured pattern may be harder to clean.
* Tile, laminate and wood are great kitchen floor alternatives. Rugs and mats can soften a harder material such as tile.
Bathroom
* Waterproof flooring is a must for those sink, toilet and bathtub overflows.
* Washable flooring is important for ease of cleaning.
* Non-slip flooring is necessary for safety purposes.
Possible Solutions:
* Vinyl has traditionally been the floor of choice for baths.
* Ceramic tile is gaining rapidly in popularity.
* Newer versions of laminate and wood products can be adapted to bathrooms even with excessive moisture. Make sure any rugs or mats are non-slip.
Living Room
* Focal point and centerpiece of home furnishings in most homes.
* Function varies from family room to formal receiving room.
* Choose flooring to match the room’s function and décor.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet offers fibers and styles that accommodate informal or formal use.
* Hardwood also provides an attractive, durable option, especially with the addition of area rugs.
Dining Room
* Wear-resistant flooring is a must if the floor is used regularly at mealtime.
* Stain-resistant floors are necessary for any area prone to food spills.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet is an option, but light colors tend to show stains more and may not be the best choice.
* Wood, laminate or tile work well in dining rooms.
Bedroom
* Floors are usually overshadowed by the bed and coordinating fabrics.
* Traffic is less of a problem here than in other rooms, so stains and wear should be minimal.
* Consider a neutral flooring that adapts to frequent décor changes. Too many bright colors can be overpowering.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet is traditionally used in bedrooms.
* Wood or laminate floors are good alternatives, especially if you add decorative rugs.
Hallways and Stairs
* Steady traffic brings dirt and moisture, especially to entry halls and mudrooms.
* Stains and wear are more visible.
* Look for a sturdy material that coordinates with the rest of the flooring in the house.
* Entry halls are the first part of your home a guest sees, so use this area to make a bold statement.
Possible Solutions:
* Inlaid patterns of wood parquet or ceramic tile can be dramatic and still handle traffic.
* Laminate flooring is a good alternative, especially if you add non-slip decorative rugs.
You Can Read the Entire Article Here
Which Room Will it Be In
Each room in the house serves specific functions that require you to think about function as well as fashion.
Kitchens
* High traffic and dirt from the outside entry door.
* Spills are common from cooking, so floors must be easy to clean.
* Non-slip flooring is necessary for safety purposes.
Possible Solutions:
* Vinyl is a good choice for kitchen floors. In the event of a dropped glass or dish, a resilient floor like vinyl has more bounce and may prevent breakage. Remember, a deeply textured pattern may be harder to clean.
* Tile, laminate and wood are great kitchen floor alternatives. Rugs and mats can soften a harder material such as tile.
Bathroom
* Waterproof flooring is a must for those sink, toilet and bathtub overflows.
* Washable flooring is important for ease of cleaning.
* Non-slip flooring is necessary for safety purposes.
Possible Solutions:
* Vinyl has traditionally been the floor of choice for baths.
* Ceramic tile is gaining rapidly in popularity.
* Newer versions of laminate and wood products can be adapted to bathrooms even with excessive moisture. Make sure any rugs or mats are non-slip.
Living Room
* Focal point and centerpiece of home furnishings in most homes.
* Function varies from family room to formal receiving room.
* Choose flooring to match the room’s function and décor.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet offers fibers and styles that accommodate informal or formal use.
* Hardwood also provides an attractive, durable option, especially with the addition of area rugs.
Dining Room
* Wear-resistant flooring is a must if the floor is used regularly at mealtime.
* Stain-resistant floors are necessary for any area prone to food spills.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet is an option, but light colors tend to show stains more and may not be the best choice.
* Wood, laminate or tile work well in dining rooms.
Bedroom
* Floors are usually overshadowed by the bed and coordinating fabrics.
* Traffic is less of a problem here than in other rooms, so stains and wear should be minimal.
* Consider a neutral flooring that adapts to frequent décor changes. Too many bright colors can be overpowering.
Possible Solutions:
* Carpet is traditionally used in bedrooms.
* Wood or laminate floors are good alternatives, especially if you add decorative rugs.
Hallways and Stairs
* Steady traffic brings dirt and moisture, especially to entry halls and mudrooms.
* Stains and wear are more visible.
* Look for a sturdy material that coordinates with the rest of the flooring in the house.
* Entry halls are the first part of your home a guest sees, so use this area to make a bold statement.
Possible Solutions:
* Inlaid patterns of wood parquet or ceramic tile can be dramatic and still handle traffic.
* Laminate flooring is a good alternative, especially if you add non-slip decorative rugs.
You Can Read the Entire Article Here
Wednesday
Maintaining High Traffice Areas
Another great answer provided by IICRC.org
The following steps should be taken when dealing with carpet in a high-traffic area:
* It's a good idea to keep sand, grit and grass clippings off walkways outside entries to prevent inward tracking of these abrasive soils.
* Purchase a properly sized entry mat (the bigger the better, but there must be room for at least two steps to sufficiently wipe soil from feet before encountering the installed carpet). Nylon face, vinyl back for better moisture and oils absorption, combined with the resiliency necessary to collect a quantity of particle soil. The IICRC suggests a rental mat, since that guarantees frequent maintenance. Place entry mats on hard surfaces rather than on carpet where they can trap moisture or cause plasticizer migration.
* Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum; daily, especially after major events. The sooner you collect soils from the surface, the easier it is to remove them. For most carpet, you should use an upright vacuum with brush agitation, unless your canister vacuum is particularly well designed. The wider the head, the more efficient.
* Use high-efficiency double-lined poly-fiber collection bags. This reduces periodic maintenance such as dusting of furniture, Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) filter exchange.
* Typically, deep cleaning should be accomplished on at least a semi-annual basis, with no more than two entry and high-traffic area "rinse" cleanings between the deep cleaning. This is dependent on traffic and daily maintenance as well. At a minimum, some attention should be given to primary entry areas on a quarterly basis.
* If spots are treated immediately, most will respond with plain warm water and very little mild detergent added.
* Make sure the HVAC system is slightly positively pressurized as well (air going out when doors are opened, rather than being sucked in). Proper air exchange rates can be calibrated according to ASHRAE regulations for the building with a trained HVAC contractor.
* Ensure proper air filtration through the HVAC System. High-efficiency pleated filters, rather than inexpensive fiberglass filters, are recommended.
The following steps should be taken when dealing with carpet in a high-traffic area:
* It's a good idea to keep sand, grit and grass clippings off walkways outside entries to prevent inward tracking of these abrasive soils.
* Purchase a properly sized entry mat (the bigger the better, but there must be room for at least two steps to sufficiently wipe soil from feet before encountering the installed carpet). Nylon face, vinyl back for better moisture and oils absorption, combined with the resiliency necessary to collect a quantity of particle soil. The IICRC suggests a rental mat, since that guarantees frequent maintenance. Place entry mats on hard surfaces rather than on carpet where they can trap moisture or cause plasticizer migration.
* Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum; daily, especially after major events. The sooner you collect soils from the surface, the easier it is to remove them. For most carpet, you should use an upright vacuum with brush agitation, unless your canister vacuum is particularly well designed. The wider the head, the more efficient.
* Use high-efficiency double-lined poly-fiber collection bags. This reduces periodic maintenance such as dusting of furniture, Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) filter exchange.
* Typically, deep cleaning should be accomplished on at least a semi-annual basis, with no more than two entry and high-traffic area "rinse" cleanings between the deep cleaning. This is dependent on traffic and daily maintenance as well. At a minimum, some attention should be given to primary entry areas on a quarterly basis.
* If spots are treated immediately, most will respond with plain warm water and very little mild detergent added.
* Make sure the HVAC system is slightly positively pressurized as well (air going out when doors are opened, rather than being sucked in). Proper air exchange rates can be calibrated according to ASHRAE regulations for the building with a trained HVAC contractor.
* Ensure proper air filtration through the HVAC System. High-efficiency pleated filters, rather than inexpensive fiberglass filters, are recommended.
How often should I get my carpets cleaned?
This material below was provided by IICRC.org.
Frequently used carpet should be professionally cleaned by a qualified technician at least annually - perhaps a little longer interval for infrequently used carpet and even sooner for carpet in homes occupied by respiratory sensitive or allergic persons; or in homes with indoor pets.
The following chart from the IICRC S100 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Carpet Cleaning serves as a guideline for recommending cleaning frequencies for carpet. They consider traffic, soil rating, vacuuming schedules, spot cleaning schedules, and professional interim and restorative cleaning.
(Click on the Image below to view cleaning schedule):
Frequently used carpet should be professionally cleaned by a qualified technician at least annually - perhaps a little longer interval for infrequently used carpet and even sooner for carpet in homes occupied by respiratory sensitive or allergic persons; or in homes with indoor pets.
The following chart from the IICRC S100 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Carpet Cleaning serves as a guideline for recommending cleaning frequencies for carpet. They consider traffic, soil rating, vacuuming schedules, spot cleaning schedules, and professional interim and restorative cleaning.
(Click on the Image below to view cleaning schedule):
Tuesday
Caring for Your Hardwood Floors
Floor Care and Maintenance
By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your floor. The following are examples of the reasonable and necessary maintenance you should to perform.
* Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
* Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products.
* NEVER wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties. The use of the dry Swiffer® sweeper by Procter & Gamble or another similar product is highly recommended. Do not use hardwood floor cleaning machines.
* The use of approved maintenance and floor-care products, including but not limited to Bona X Swedish Formula Hardwood Flooring Cleaner and Basic Coating Squeaky Hardwood Floor Cleaner, is highly recommended.
* IMPORTANT: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products, or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, silicon or ammonia since these warranties do not cover damage caused by non-recommended products. Use of these and other such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor and may also affect its recoat ability.
* Keep pets' nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil and stains.
* Place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents.
* Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture or appliances.
* Make certain furniture casters are clean and operate properly (a minimum 1" width is recommended).
* Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on floor.
* Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the stain and/or wood to fade and/or to change color. We recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. These warranties do not cover damage from the sun and its UV rays.
* Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g., stair landings, room entries, etc.), especially if you have a large family or indoor pets.
* Place mats on both sides of doors leading out of the house. These mats will help catch dirt, sand and other materials that may damage your floor.
Information in this article can be found at Andersonfloors.com
By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your floor. The following are examples of the reasonable and necessary maintenance you should to perform.
* Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD.
* Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products.
* NEVER wet-mop, damp-mop, or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the flooring and will void the warranties. The use of the dry Swiffer® sweeper by Procter & Gamble or another similar product is highly recommended. Do not use hardwood floor cleaning machines.
* The use of approved maintenance and floor-care products, including but not limited to Bona X Swedish Formula Hardwood Flooring Cleaner and Basic Coating Squeaky Hardwood Floor Cleaner, is highly recommended.
* IMPORTANT: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products, or other household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, silicon or ammonia since these warranties do not cover damage caused by non-recommended products. Use of these and other such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor and may also affect its recoat ability.
* Keep pets' nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil and stains.
* Place protective pads beneath furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents.
* Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving heavy objects, furniture or appliances.
* Make certain furniture casters are clean and operate properly (a minimum 1" width is recommended).
* Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on floor.
* Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the oxidation and aging of wood and fabrics. This causes the stain and/or wood to fade and/or to change color. We recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. These warranties do not cover damage from the sun and its UV rays.
* Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g., stair landings, room entries, etc.), especially if you have a large family or indoor pets.
* Place mats on both sides of doors leading out of the house. These mats will help catch dirt, sand and other materials that may damage your floor.
Information in this article can be found at Andersonfloors.com
Troubleshooting Common Carpet Issues
We found this great article from the The Carpet and Rug Institute
Texture surface retention
Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.
Crushing
Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce crushing that results from traffic. Manufacturers’ definitions of crushing may vary.
Depressions or indentations
The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.
Fading or color loss
Give your carpet the normal protection from direct sunlight that you would give to any colored fabric. Emissions from heating systems or chemicals, such as pesticides, household cleaning agents and other household items, can also result in color loss.
Filtration soil
Filtration soil may appear as dark or grayish lines on carpet along walls, stairways and under doors. It is caused by airflow over and through carpet, allowing fine soils to settle on the surface. It is often caused by an improperly balanced ventilation system, when the volume of air entering a room exceeds the system’s capacity to remove air from the room. Excess air then seeks exit sources in gaps along walls and stairways. Prevent the airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing openings through the carpet and under doors and baseboards. Keeping the air in the area clean and using good filtration in your heating and cooling systems and vacuum cleaners can help. Filtration soils may require special cleaning treatment for effective removal. Contact a carpet-cleaning professional for assistance.
Fluffing and shedding
The balls of fluff, or loose fibers, found on carpet or in the vacuum cleaner bag are the normal result of fiber left in the carpet from the manufacturing process. Removing these loose fibers does not affect carpet life or appearance. Because of their large size, these fibers are too big to become airborne or to be breathed in. With proper vacuuming and using a quality vacuum cleaner, most shedding gradually disappears within the first year after installation.
Matting
Manufacturers’ definitions of matting may vary. Matting is usually the result of the untwisting of the yarn and the intermingling of the yarn tips through foot traffic. Matting may be caused by various factors, including an improperly specified cushion, cushion failure, or improper maintenance. Matting is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty.
Moth, beetle and flea control
Most wool and wool-blend carpet made in the United States is permanently treated to prevent moth damage. Carpet and rugs of manufactured (synthetic) fibers are naturally resistant to insects, because such fibers are not a food source and are resistant to beetles, commonly called carpet beetles. However, beetles already in the home may lay eggs in the carpet pile and hatch in 8 to 15 days. Pet owners also may find fleas on their carpet. Fleas will not damage the carpet and will die there, unless they find another animal to sustain them. Frequent vacuuming aids in the control of fleas on carpet; just be sure to change the vacuum bag often. For assistance in removing beetles or other insects, contact a professional pest control specialist.
Odor
During and immediately following the installation of your new carpet, there may be a slight odor, which may result from the removal of your old carpet and cushion or from the new carpet, cushion, adhesives or seaming tape. Ventilation with fresh air is recommended. Ideally, windows and doors should be opened, and the HVAC system should be operated at maximum capacity for 48 to 72 hours.
Soiling
Maintain the beauty of your carpet by cleaning it regularly before it becomes excessively soiled. Dirty, airborne particles may be deposited on carpet, causing dulling. Dulling is caused by the deposits of all types of soil. For example, a delicate rose color may gradually become a neutral taupe because of soil, while light blue may take on a dull, gray-green hue. Red clay soil also can cause a pronounced change in some colors. In spite of such phenomena, the original color of a carpet is not lost; it is still present under the soil. Oily soil may be very difficult to remove after it has been on the carpet for a long time, and it may be actually absorbed into the fiber, causing the carpet to have a yellow cast. Frequent cleanings are important to avoid this problem. Entry mats at doorways trap soil, and combined with routine cleaning and vacuuming, provide extra protection for all floor coverings.
Sprouting
Occasionally, a yarn tuft will rise above the pile surface of a carpet. Just snip off these tufts to the level of the other tufts. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT. If this problem persists in a localized area, contact your flooring contractor or manufacturer’s representative.
Stain-resistant carpet
Almost all carpet manufactured today has finishes that make it more stain- and soil-resistant, but no carpet is entirely stainproof. It still requires care. Remove spots and spills promptly. If spills or soils are allowed to remain, they may become permanent. Call the phone number normally found on the carpet warranty to obtain specific information about cleaning the carpet.
Topical treatments
Topical treatments include soil retardants, stain repellents, antistatic treatments and deodorizers. The use of after-market, topical treatments without the express approval of the carpet manufacturer prior to application may void applicable warranties.
Wear
Most carpet manufacturers offer “wear” warranties of various time lengths. According to these warranties, “wear” is defined as the loss of pile weight or pile fiber (usually 10 percent) due to abrasive loss of fiber by weight. What appears to be wear, or pile fiber loss, may actually be matting, crushing or permanent fiber damage caused by soiling rather than loss of fiber. There is seldom actual loss of pile fiber. (See also Matting, Crushing.)
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles in carpet are most often caused by a failure to stretch the carpet correctly using a power stretcher, the use of an incorrect or failed cushion, or excessive temperature and/or humidity. Ripples can be caused by a combination of any of the above. If ripples or buckles develop, consult your carpet retailer. Generally, the problem can be corrected by a qualified carpet installer who reinstalls the carpet with a power stretcher.
Texture surface retention
Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.
Crushing
Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce crushing that results from traffic. Manufacturers’ definitions of crushing may vary.
Depressions or indentations
The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.
Fading or color loss
Give your carpet the normal protection from direct sunlight that you would give to any colored fabric. Emissions from heating systems or chemicals, such as pesticides, household cleaning agents and other household items, can also result in color loss.
Filtration soil
Filtration soil may appear as dark or grayish lines on carpet along walls, stairways and under doors. It is caused by airflow over and through carpet, allowing fine soils to settle on the surface. It is often caused by an improperly balanced ventilation system, when the volume of air entering a room exceeds the system’s capacity to remove air from the room. Excess air then seeks exit sources in gaps along walls and stairways. Prevent the airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing openings through the carpet and under doors and baseboards. Keeping the air in the area clean and using good filtration in your heating and cooling systems and vacuum cleaners can help. Filtration soils may require special cleaning treatment for effective removal. Contact a carpet-cleaning professional for assistance.
Fluffing and shedding
The balls of fluff, or loose fibers, found on carpet or in the vacuum cleaner bag are the normal result of fiber left in the carpet from the manufacturing process. Removing these loose fibers does not affect carpet life or appearance. Because of their large size, these fibers are too big to become airborne or to be breathed in. With proper vacuuming and using a quality vacuum cleaner, most shedding gradually disappears within the first year after installation.
Matting
Manufacturers’ definitions of matting may vary. Matting is usually the result of the untwisting of the yarn and the intermingling of the yarn tips through foot traffic. Matting may be caused by various factors, including an improperly specified cushion, cushion failure, or improper maintenance. Matting is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty.
Moth, beetle and flea control
Most wool and wool-blend carpet made in the United States is permanently treated to prevent moth damage. Carpet and rugs of manufactured (synthetic) fibers are naturally resistant to insects, because such fibers are not a food source and are resistant to beetles, commonly called carpet beetles. However, beetles already in the home may lay eggs in the carpet pile and hatch in 8 to 15 days. Pet owners also may find fleas on their carpet. Fleas will not damage the carpet and will die there, unless they find another animal to sustain them. Frequent vacuuming aids in the control of fleas on carpet; just be sure to change the vacuum bag often. For assistance in removing beetles or other insects, contact a professional pest control specialist.
Odor
During and immediately following the installation of your new carpet, there may be a slight odor, which may result from the removal of your old carpet and cushion or from the new carpet, cushion, adhesives or seaming tape. Ventilation with fresh air is recommended. Ideally, windows and doors should be opened, and the HVAC system should be operated at maximum capacity for 48 to 72 hours.
Soiling
Maintain the beauty of your carpet by cleaning it regularly before it becomes excessively soiled. Dirty, airborne particles may be deposited on carpet, causing dulling. Dulling is caused by the deposits of all types of soil. For example, a delicate rose color may gradually become a neutral taupe because of soil, while light blue may take on a dull, gray-green hue. Red clay soil also can cause a pronounced change in some colors. In spite of such phenomena, the original color of a carpet is not lost; it is still present under the soil. Oily soil may be very difficult to remove after it has been on the carpet for a long time, and it may be actually absorbed into the fiber, causing the carpet to have a yellow cast. Frequent cleanings are important to avoid this problem. Entry mats at doorways trap soil, and combined with routine cleaning and vacuuming, provide extra protection for all floor coverings.
Sprouting
Occasionally, a yarn tuft will rise above the pile surface of a carpet. Just snip off these tufts to the level of the other tufts. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT. If this problem persists in a localized area, contact your flooring contractor or manufacturer’s representative.
Stain-resistant carpet
Almost all carpet manufactured today has finishes that make it more stain- and soil-resistant, but no carpet is entirely stainproof. It still requires care. Remove spots and spills promptly. If spills or soils are allowed to remain, they may become permanent. Call the phone number normally found on the carpet warranty to obtain specific information about cleaning the carpet.
Topical treatments
Topical treatments include soil retardants, stain repellents, antistatic treatments and deodorizers. The use of after-market, topical treatments without the express approval of the carpet manufacturer prior to application may void applicable warranties.
Wear
Most carpet manufacturers offer “wear” warranties of various time lengths. According to these warranties, “wear” is defined as the loss of pile weight or pile fiber (usually 10 percent) due to abrasive loss of fiber by weight. What appears to be wear, or pile fiber loss, may actually be matting, crushing or permanent fiber damage caused by soiling rather than loss of fiber. There is seldom actual loss of pile fiber. (See also Matting, Crushing.)
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles in carpet are most often caused by a failure to stretch the carpet correctly using a power stretcher, the use of an incorrect or failed cushion, or excessive temperature and/or humidity. Ripples can be caused by a combination of any of the above. If ripples or buckles develop, consult your carpet retailer. Generally, the problem can be corrected by a qualified carpet installer who reinstalls the carpet with a power stretcher.
Monday
Remove Water Stains from Carpet
If you have a small water stain on your carpet check out the video below on how to remove the stain.
Carpet Ghosts
Great tip from Marthastewart.com on how to remove "carpet ghosts."
Carpet ghosts are those little indentations left behind when a piece of furniture has been resting in one place for a long time. If you're looking for a simple and efficient way to eliminate them, simply place ice cubes where the carpet has been crushed or matted. The fibers of the carpet will swell as they absorb the water. Once the ice cubes have melted, just blot the wet area with a dry towel, and vacuum the carpet to straighten out the fibers. Voila! Carpet ghosts are gone. Don't forget to use your Lift Buddy when cleaning moving furniture
Carpet ghosts are those little indentations left behind when a piece of furniture has been resting in one place for a long time. If you're looking for a simple and efficient way to eliminate them, simply place ice cubes where the carpet has been crushed or matted. The fibers of the carpet will swell as they absorb the water. Once the ice cubes have melted, just blot the wet area with a dry towel, and vacuum the carpet to straighten out the fibers. Voila! Carpet ghosts are gone. Don't forget to use your Lift Buddy when cleaning moving furniture
Saturday
Remove Red Wine from your Carpet
We found this wonderful video that demonstrates the best way to remove red wine from your carpet!!
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