This is a great little video that we wanted to share with you about some of the carpet cleaning trade secrets!
Showing posts with label about flooring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label about flooring. Show all posts
Sunday
Carpet Cleaning Costs
We hope this article helps to give you some idea's about carpet cleaning costs
You can view the full article Click Here
The industry recommended time to have carpets cleaned is every 12-18 months, yet the average homeowner has her carpets cleaned every 7 years. "If it vacuums up, then it ain't dirty," as the old saying goes. The reason for the discrepancy between the time recommended and the span before they are actually cleaned results from the public not knowing how often this should be done, not to mention some misconception about costs. This article works towards solving these issues and a few others as well.
Average Carpet Cleaning Costs
The average home has about 1000 square feet (sq ft) of carpet. The national average for carpet cleaning costs on this size home is $.30/sq ft, which brings the actual carpet cleaning cost to $300. So the typical home spends around $43 a year for clean carpets, if the carpets in that home are being cleaned every 7 years.
If you happen to have more carpet than a typical home, you are likely to get a per sq ft discount, since your home is a bigger job. However, cleaning carpet costs will go up if you have less.
Less is More
In order for carpet cleaning companies to make a profit on homes with less than 1000 sq ft of carpet, they have to raise the price per sq ft. The company still has to drive out to your house, unroll all of their hoses, set up their equipment, do the work, and the break it all back down. This takes time. So don't feel that you are being ripped off if your price per square foot is higher than your neighbors'. This is an industry standard.
Trick of the Trade
If carpet cleaning costs are more than you think they should be, here are a few ways that can help you cut down on costs.
If you schedule a regular yearly cleaning with your carpet company, you are likely to be able to negotiate for a lower price. With homeowners cleaning their carpets every 7 years, you will be way ahead of the curve and in the position to ask for a discounted price, since you are such a regular customer.
Next, most companies who clean carpets also do other cleanings, such as upholstery and ducts. If you bundle all of the chores together and have them performed by the same company on the same trip, even though the entire cleaning will cost more, you will be saving money on each individual process, since they are only making one trip.
The Final Word
The items and prices listed above are just averages that we have gathered from our carpet services across the nation. Not every service will give you the same price or negotiate for the same kind of deals. However, if you think that the price you were quoted for your cleaning is too high, be sure to get several estimates so that you can see if your area just charges a higher rate.
*Remember. Carpets last longer and look better with regular cleanings, plus carpet traps dust, dander, and allergens that can cause health issues. This is an inexpensive process that does wonders for your home and family.
Matt Myers is a freelance writer for the home maintenance and remodeling industry. Formerly a contractor specializing in deck building and casework, Matt has written over 500 articles for both homeowners and contractors.
Read more: http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.Carpet-Cleaning-Costs.13808.html#ixzz0f4k4wVAO
You can view the full article Click Here
The industry recommended time to have carpets cleaned is every 12-18 months, yet the average homeowner has her carpets cleaned every 7 years. "If it vacuums up, then it ain't dirty," as the old saying goes. The reason for the discrepancy between the time recommended and the span before they are actually cleaned results from the public not knowing how often this should be done, not to mention some misconception about costs. This article works towards solving these issues and a few others as well.
Average Carpet Cleaning Costs
The average home has about 1000 square feet (sq ft) of carpet. The national average for carpet cleaning costs on this size home is $.30/sq ft, which brings the actual carpet cleaning cost to $300. So the typical home spends around $43 a year for clean carpets, if the carpets in that home are being cleaned every 7 years.
If you happen to have more carpet than a typical home, you are likely to get a per sq ft discount, since your home is a bigger job. However, cleaning carpet costs will go up if you have less.
Less is More
In order for carpet cleaning companies to make a profit on homes with less than 1000 sq ft of carpet, they have to raise the price per sq ft. The company still has to drive out to your house, unroll all of their hoses, set up their equipment, do the work, and the break it all back down. This takes time. So don't feel that you are being ripped off if your price per square foot is higher than your neighbors'. This is an industry standard.
Trick of the Trade
If carpet cleaning costs are more than you think they should be, here are a few ways that can help you cut down on costs.
If you schedule a regular yearly cleaning with your carpet company, you are likely to be able to negotiate for a lower price. With homeowners cleaning their carpets every 7 years, you will be way ahead of the curve and in the position to ask for a discounted price, since you are such a regular customer.
Next, most companies who clean carpets also do other cleanings, such as upholstery and ducts. If you bundle all of the chores together and have them performed by the same company on the same trip, even though the entire cleaning will cost more, you will be saving money on each individual process, since they are only making one trip.
The Final Word
The items and prices listed above are just averages that we have gathered from our carpet services across the nation. Not every service will give you the same price or negotiate for the same kind of deals. However, if you think that the price you were quoted for your cleaning is too high, be sure to get several estimates so that you can see if your area just charges a higher rate.
*Remember. Carpets last longer and look better with regular cleanings, plus carpet traps dust, dander, and allergens that can cause health issues. This is an inexpensive process that does wonders for your home and family.
Matt Myers is a freelance writer for the home maintenance and remodeling industry. Formerly a contractor specializing in deck building and casework, Matt has written over 500 articles for both homeowners and contractors.
Read more: http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.Carpet-Cleaning-Costs.13808.html#ixzz0f4k4wVAO
Friday
Review of Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300
The Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 is the deluxe version in Dirt Devil's economical Easy Steamer series. While it offers a performance similar to Dirt Devil's no-frills Easy Steamer models, the MCE7300 has two important features that set it apart: It comes with additional attachments and a higher price tag.
Even though it costs about $60 more than the economy model, the Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 is still half the price of some of its competitors -- and does an admirable job when tackling everyday cleaning tasks. It comes with onboard tools that extend its usefulness. The tools make it possible to use the steam cleaner on stairs and upholstery. If one needs a steam cleaner to do more than clean carpets, these additions may make paying an additional $60 worth the cost. The tools include an upholstery tool and a nozzle, as well as an 8-foot accordion-style hose. We tested the upholstery tool on a stained portion of a seat cushion. It removed a fresh spill with ease, but needed the help of a pre-treater to extract a more stubborn stain that was several days old. Still, it is not uncommon to need to pre-treat a stain, even with more expensive steam cleaners.
The Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 has a motorized, rotating brush head. It has an 11-inch cleaning path and 5.2 amps of cleaning power, which is about average. It has two built-in tanks that are nested vertically within the cleaner's main body. Each tank has a 1-gallon capacity. One holds hot tap water and cleaning solution, while the other collects dirty water extracted from carpets. The tanks are easy to remove, and simple to refill and replace. We only wish the tanks had a greater capacity, which would allow one to use the steam cleaner on larger spaces before stopping to refill. The trade-off to the tanks' 1-gallon capacities, however, is that the Dirt Devil MCE7300 is truly lightweight -- even when in use. With both tanks full, the MCE7300's working weight is about 22 pounds, which makes it easy to maneuver. The other benefit to using a lightweight, easily portable model is that one is more likely to pull it out of storage for everyday spills.
It's important to note the Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 does not have an internal heating mechanism to create steam, so calling the cleaner a "steamer" is a bit misleading. Instead, one must use hot tap water when filling the clean water reservoir.
If one expects to use a carpet steam cleaner on stair or upholstery, it's worth it to pay the additional $60 for this model rather than purchase one of Dirt Devil's no-frills steam cleaners. The Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 is an average carpet cleaner with onboard tools that make it more versatile.
Pros: Onboard tools, lightweight
Cons: Doesn't heat water internally
Warranty
2 years, parts and motor
You can view more product reviews at http://products.howstuffworks.com/dirt-devil-easy-steamer-mce7300-review.htm
Even though it costs about $60 more than the economy model, the Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 is still half the price of some of its competitors -- and does an admirable job when tackling everyday cleaning tasks. It comes with onboard tools that extend its usefulness. The tools make it possible to use the steam cleaner on stairs and upholstery. If one needs a steam cleaner to do more than clean carpets, these additions may make paying an additional $60 worth the cost. The tools include an upholstery tool and a nozzle, as well as an 8-foot accordion-style hose. We tested the upholstery tool on a stained portion of a seat cushion. It removed a fresh spill with ease, but needed the help of a pre-treater to extract a more stubborn stain that was several days old. Still, it is not uncommon to need to pre-treat a stain, even with more expensive steam cleaners.
The Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 has a motorized, rotating brush head. It has an 11-inch cleaning path and 5.2 amps of cleaning power, which is about average. It has two built-in tanks that are nested vertically within the cleaner's main body. Each tank has a 1-gallon capacity. One holds hot tap water and cleaning solution, while the other collects dirty water extracted from carpets. The tanks are easy to remove, and simple to refill and replace. We only wish the tanks had a greater capacity, which would allow one to use the steam cleaner on larger spaces before stopping to refill. The trade-off to the tanks' 1-gallon capacities, however, is that the Dirt Devil MCE7300 is truly lightweight -- even when in use. With both tanks full, the MCE7300's working weight is about 22 pounds, which makes it easy to maneuver. The other benefit to using a lightweight, easily portable model is that one is more likely to pull it out of storage for everyday spills.
It's important to note the Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 does not have an internal heating mechanism to create steam, so calling the cleaner a "steamer" is a bit misleading. Instead, one must use hot tap water when filling the clean water reservoir.
If one expects to use a carpet steam cleaner on stair or upholstery, it's worth it to pay the additional $60 for this model rather than purchase one of Dirt Devil's no-frills steam cleaners. The Dirt Devil Easy Steamer MCE7300 is an average carpet cleaner with onboard tools that make it more versatile.
Pros: Onboard tools, lightweight
Cons: Doesn't heat water internally
Warranty
2 years, parts and motor
You can view more product reviews at http://products.howstuffworks.com/dirt-devil-easy-steamer-mce7300-review.htm
How To Rent a Carpet Cleaning Machine
We've written about how to use the Carpet cleaners that you rent from the Supermarket. However, we decided to include this article about how to rent a carpet cleaning machine. It is a great outline to follow so you don't get home with your rented carpet cleaner and realize you forgot to pick something up!
However stain-resistant your carpet is, and how frequently you vacuum it, you would still need it to give it a deep cleaning at least once a year. Instead of hiring professional carpet cleaning services
to do it for you, you can actually rent a carpet cleaning
machine and do it yourself without costing you as much. Here are the five easy steps on your way to renting a carpet cleaning machine:
1. Find store. The first step is to find a grocery store or check with a local home depot if they rent carpet cleaners. Wherever you live, chances are there would be several close locations that provide carpet cleaning machine rentals. You can check the machine out for half a day, an entire day or for as long as you want and just pay the amount of time you have rented it out.
2. Choose carpet cleaner. In picking a carpet cleaner machine for rental, there are several thing you could try to inspect to get the best one. Make sure that you get clean equipment by checking the bristles, water tank and its attachments. Double check if it has clean upholstery also. A lot of people already might have used the machine to clean all sorts of things. You may also want to consider renting either a Bissell machine or a Hoover machine that are both known for their high efficiency.
3. Purchase supplies. Renting cleaning equipment more often than not does not include other cleaning materials and supplies. You would need to purchase these cleaning solutions and other supplies yourself. To ensure deep cleaning, you can buy a urine eliminator to remove human and animal urine stains on your carpet. For high traffic areas, you can also purchase a pre-treatment. Most importantly, you should ask the rental agent or look for the equipment machine instruction manual to give you an idea of the best cleaning solution that works with the machine.
4. Ask for instructions. Ask the carpet cleaner rental company for instructions on how to operate the machine. The establishment can either explain to you the information you need or you can bring the manual home and read it there. Not all carpet cleaning equipment works the same. That is why it would be wise to ask the rental agent for operational instructions, or better yet, request for a demonstration.
5. Pay the rental. Rental agreements and rates vary depending on the rental store you go to. Some may prefer up front payments while others would charge you when you return the carper cleaner. For up front payments, you would have to give the rental company a specific time frame you would have their equipment checked out. Otherwise, if you exceed the time frame you initially signed up for, you would have to pay extra for those excess hours. It would be better if you also consider giving yourself time to purchase the necessary supplies, time to figure out how the machine works, plus travel time going to and from the store. Sometimes, it takes more time than you think trying to work out what shampoo machine is.
These are the five easy steps to follow on how to rent a carpet cleaning machine.
You can find this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-rent-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
However stain-resistant your carpet is, and how frequently you vacuum it, you would still need it to give it a deep cleaning at least once a year. Instead of hiring professional carpet cleaning services
to do it for you, you can actually rent a carpet cleaning
machine and do it yourself without costing you as much. Here are the five easy steps on your way to renting a carpet cleaning machine:
1. Find store. The first step is to find a grocery store or check with a local home depot if they rent carpet cleaners. Wherever you live, chances are there would be several close locations that provide carpet cleaning machine rentals. You can check the machine out for half a day, an entire day or for as long as you want and just pay the amount of time you have rented it out.
2. Choose carpet cleaner. In picking a carpet cleaner machine for rental, there are several thing you could try to inspect to get the best one. Make sure that you get clean equipment by checking the bristles, water tank and its attachments. Double check if it has clean upholstery also. A lot of people already might have used the machine to clean all sorts of things. You may also want to consider renting either a Bissell machine or a Hoover machine that are both known for their high efficiency.
3. Purchase supplies. Renting cleaning equipment more often than not does not include other cleaning materials and supplies. You would need to purchase these cleaning solutions and other supplies yourself. To ensure deep cleaning, you can buy a urine eliminator to remove human and animal urine stains on your carpet. For high traffic areas, you can also purchase a pre-treatment. Most importantly, you should ask the rental agent or look for the equipment machine instruction manual to give you an idea of the best cleaning solution that works with the machine.
4. Ask for instructions. Ask the carpet cleaner rental company for instructions on how to operate the machine. The establishment can either explain to you the information you need or you can bring the manual home and read it there. Not all carpet cleaning equipment works the same. That is why it would be wise to ask the rental agent for operational instructions, or better yet, request for a demonstration.
5. Pay the rental. Rental agreements and rates vary depending on the rental store you go to. Some may prefer up front payments while others would charge you when you return the carper cleaner. For up front payments, you would have to give the rental company a specific time frame you would have their equipment checked out. Otherwise, if you exceed the time frame you initially signed up for, you would have to pay extra for those excess hours. It would be better if you also consider giving yourself time to purchase the necessary supplies, time to figure out how the machine works, plus travel time going to and from the store. Sometimes, it takes more time than you think trying to work out what shampoo machine is.
These are the five easy steps to follow on how to rent a carpet cleaning machine.
You can find this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-rent-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
Thursday
Carpet Cleaning with the Steam Cleaning RugDoctor
If you don't have a Carpet Cleaner you can always rent one from your local supermarket. Below is and article about how to Steam Clean your carpets with the Rug Doctors.
We found this great article at: http://prohowtos.ipower.com/content/carpet-cleaning-steam-cleaning-rugdoctor
If you've got pets or kids and your beautiful white or beige carpets have seen better days maybe it's time to rent a RugDoctor from your local supermarket!
These things are great, pick yourself up one of their bottles of carpet shampoo - a big bottle if you've got a lot of cleaning to do or you haven't cleaned in years. The machines rent at most supermarkets for under $40 in most cases. You can sometimes rent them in a 4 hour time block - but this is only for those of you who threw a party while your parents were gone and you've only got a few hours until they come home! Maybe if you only have one room with a carpet then this 4 hour period could be for you. But I still suggest renting it for over night.
Follow the directions completely before using. Make sure not to use any other soap then the soap that they provide. The reason for this is dish soap and other soaps will foam up and make a huge mess of everything, including the machine. Just fork out the extra money for the proper cleaner - it's worth it.
When the RugDoctor's water tank is filled with the cleaning solution and water, flip it on. Don't move to slow or to fast. Pretend your walking with a 2 year old for their first steps. Keep it moving and never stop in one spot with the machine on. The reason is that the jet that sprays water in the front. The agitator is in the middle and the vacuum is in the back. If you continue to spray water/steam without moving it will soak into your floors and could damage your sub floor. Start the spray when you start moving and finish spraying but continue to vacuum up the left over water.
You'll want to cover high traffic areas first. You'll more then likely need to go over these areas a few times. Every time you go over the carpet the steam will let more dirt free from the fibers - you can continue to clean until your dirt bucket is full or you're out of soap. If you clean on a regular basis you shouldn't need to pass more then 3 times on a high traffic carpet. If you don't clean regularly, you'll use up a bottle of the cleaner on just your hallway! I did this for a friend - they had not cleaned their carpets in over 8 years and the carpet stairs we're filthy and black water continued to come up after a dozen passes.
The unit comes with a hand wand - great for cleaning corners and edges of the carpets and even stair treads. Because you're not lugging around a big machine up the stairs I like to spray the step first from a 6 inch distance. Let it soak in for 15 seconds. Scrub it without the vacuum option on. Then finally vacuum it all up. If you're still seeing lots of dirt on the steps continue doing this until they are clean. Stairs will be the dirtiest area of your house.
Beyond cleaning your carpets this also works pretty well on ceramic tiles and linoleum - stay away from hardwood floors! For tiles simply do the same as you would with a carpet. I wouldn't rent one of these things just for your tile floor - it's just if you already have it and you are in the mood for cleaning.
Also, if you've got allergies to dust or pollen, make this a part of your spring cleaning every year - you'll notice a huge change in your symptoms with a dust free home. This is a must for carpet owners - think of your carpets as clothing on your floor - you walk on it, you sit on it and play on it. You've got to clean it once and a while too!
If you're concerned about the chemicals in the carpet cleaner - RugDoctor now offers a green line of cleaning products for your carpets. The carpet cleaner is an OXY product - safe for fumes and a powerful cleaner too. This product works just as well, if not better then the non green version! Try it out!
We found this great article at: http://prohowtos.ipower.com/content/carpet-cleaning-steam-cleaning-rugdoctor
If you've got pets or kids and your beautiful white or beige carpets have seen better days maybe it's time to rent a RugDoctor from your local supermarket!
These things are great, pick yourself up one of their bottles of carpet shampoo - a big bottle if you've got a lot of cleaning to do or you haven't cleaned in years. The machines rent at most supermarkets for under $40 in most cases. You can sometimes rent them in a 4 hour time block - but this is only for those of you who threw a party while your parents were gone and you've only got a few hours until they come home! Maybe if you only have one room with a carpet then this 4 hour period could be for you. But I still suggest renting it for over night.
Follow the directions completely before using. Make sure not to use any other soap then the soap that they provide. The reason for this is dish soap and other soaps will foam up and make a huge mess of everything, including the machine. Just fork out the extra money for the proper cleaner - it's worth it.
When the RugDoctor's water tank is filled with the cleaning solution and water, flip it on. Don't move to slow or to fast. Pretend your walking with a 2 year old for their first steps. Keep it moving and never stop in one spot with the machine on. The reason is that the jet that sprays water in the front. The agitator is in the middle and the vacuum is in the back. If you continue to spray water/steam without moving it will soak into your floors and could damage your sub floor. Start the spray when you start moving and finish spraying but continue to vacuum up the left over water.
You'll want to cover high traffic areas first. You'll more then likely need to go over these areas a few times. Every time you go over the carpet the steam will let more dirt free from the fibers - you can continue to clean until your dirt bucket is full or you're out of soap. If you clean on a regular basis you shouldn't need to pass more then 3 times on a high traffic carpet. If you don't clean regularly, you'll use up a bottle of the cleaner on just your hallway! I did this for a friend - they had not cleaned their carpets in over 8 years and the carpet stairs we're filthy and black water continued to come up after a dozen passes.
The unit comes with a hand wand - great for cleaning corners and edges of the carpets and even stair treads. Because you're not lugging around a big machine up the stairs I like to spray the step first from a 6 inch distance. Let it soak in for 15 seconds. Scrub it without the vacuum option on. Then finally vacuum it all up. If you're still seeing lots of dirt on the steps continue doing this until they are clean. Stairs will be the dirtiest area of your house.
Beyond cleaning your carpets this also works pretty well on ceramic tiles and linoleum - stay away from hardwood floors! For tiles simply do the same as you would with a carpet. I wouldn't rent one of these things just for your tile floor - it's just if you already have it and you are in the mood for cleaning.
Also, if you've got allergies to dust or pollen, make this a part of your spring cleaning every year - you'll notice a huge change in your symptoms with a dust free home. This is a must for carpet owners - think of your carpets as clothing on your floor - you walk on it, you sit on it and play on it. You've got to clean it once and a while too!
If you're concerned about the chemicals in the carpet cleaner - RugDoctor now offers a green line of cleaning products for your carpets. The carpet cleaner is an OXY product - safe for fumes and a powerful cleaner too. This product works just as well, if not better then the non green version! Try it out!
How Carpet is Made
We thought this was a great article to help you learn more about how your carpet is made, so that you will know the best way to take care of it!
We found this article at http://www.wfca.org/carpet/howmade.aspx.
Today’s healthiest carpets get plenty of fiber.
Fiber is the basic material that a carpet is made up of. Over ninety percent of all of the carpet made today is made up of synthetic fiber. The rest is natural fiber, most commonly wool. First, let’s look at the most common synthetic fibers.
Synthetic fibers are usually made up of one of three materials: nylon, polypropylene or polyester. All three are created by similar chemical processes using oil and natural gas.
You can rely on nylon.
70% of carpet today is made of nylon and, compared to the other fibers below, it performs the best overall. Nylon is the leader in: appearance retention, fade and heat resistance, soil and stain resistance, and color and styling. The highest performance nylon is Type 6.6, which has a tighter molecular construction, making the carpet more resistant to stain penetration.
Go slow, long word ahead.
The next most common material used in carpet manufacturing is polypropylene, also referred to as olefin. Introduced in the late 1950’s in Italy , polypropylene BCF has seen fast growth over the last twenty years, and today represents more than thirty percent of the total fibers used in the carpet industry.
While polypropylene is not as resilient or resistant to abrasion as nylon, it is naturally stain and fade resistant. Its natural resistance to moisture means that it must be dyed before being extruded, resulting in a more limited range of color options. Polypropylene is most often used in loop pile carpet constructions.
Does polyester suit you?
The third type of material commonly used in carpet manufacturing is polyester. Polyester was introduced to the carpet industry in the mid 1960’s, and has been well accepted for its bulkiness, color clarity, and good stain and fade resistance. While not as resilient as nylon, Polyester fiber carpet constructed with today’s new technologies can be a good performer.
The dyed-in-the-wool original.
The above three materials make up the majority of synthetic fibers. The other type of fiber used in carpet construction is staple fiber. While some synthetics are used in the creation of staple fibers, the original staple fiber used in the making of carpet is wool.
The wool used in today’s carpet comes primarily from New Zealand, Argentina, and the United Kingdom. Since wool is a natural fiber, it ranges in color from off-white to black, with many earthen tones between.
Berber, now considered a type of carpet construction, actually comes from the name of a group of North African sheepherders called the Berbers. The Berbers were known to produce very coarse wool, with characteristic color flecks in their yarns.
Although wool doesn’t stand up to abrasion and moisture as well as synthetics, it cleans well and is known to age gracefully. Wool is the most expensive carpet fiber, and represents less than one percent of the U.S. carpet market.
carpet fiber
The production of carpet, a 3-part epic.
There are basically three steps to manufacturing carpet. The first step is what is called tufting. Tufting begins with the process of weaving the synthetic or staple fiber into a primary backing material. The primary backing material is usually made of woven polypropylene, and its main value is to provide a base cloth to hold the yarn in place while the tufting happens.
The tufting machine looks like a really big sewing machine. It has anywhere from 800 to 2000 needles working in concert to pull the yarn through the primary backing material. The typical tufting machine sits about 12 feet wide, and as its needles penetrate the backing, a small hook called a looper grabs the yarn and holds it in place. This process results in what is called loop pile construction.
Loop pile products hold their appearance exceptionally well. Since there are no exposed yarn tips, only the sides of the yarn are exposed to wear and stress. Generally speaking, low profile loop carpet stands up to heavy traffic best.
Cut to the next scene.
In some carpet styles the looper then rocks back against a knife, where the small loops of yarn are cut, creating what we call a cut pile carpet. The length of these cut pieces of yarn is referred to as the pile height, and is basically the distance between the looper and the primary backing.
These precision cuts are controlled by a computer, and are sometimes programmed to cut only some of the loops. This method of selectively cutting, called cut and loop construction, creates a recognizable pattern on the surface of the carpet.
Now let’s pause in our construction story to identify and explain some terms and construction variables that you will encounter while making a carpet purchase decision.
Pile height, or nap, is the length of the tuft measured from the primary backing to the yarn tips. It’s usually shown as a fraction, or sometimes its decimal equivalent. Usually shorter pile heights are more durable than longer pile heights.
The stitch rate of a carpet is the measure of how close the yarns are together. Stitch rate is measured in penetrations, or tufts, in a given length of carpet, usually an inch. The stitch rate is controlled by how fast the carpet is moved through the tufting machine. Seven to eight tufts per inch is a good number, while three or four is pretty poor.
Face weight is determined by the actual amount of fiber per square yard, and is measured in ounces. A typical carpet may have a face weight of 35 to 45 ounces for example.
Finally, density is a measure of how tightly the yarn is stitched into the primary backing. Higher density carpet will typically wear better than low density carpet.
carpet binding
The second step of carpet manufacturing is to dye for.
Now the carpet is taken through one of two dyeing processes. The first method of dyeing is called yarn dyeing, or sometimes pre-dyeing, where the color is applied to the yarn prior to tufting.
The advantages of all yarn dyeing methods include good side-by-side color consistency, large lot sizes, and uniformity.
The second method involves applying color to the yarn after the carpet has been tufted. This method is called carpet dyeing. There are several carpet dyeing methods in use, each producing a unique end result.
The first technique, often referred to as Beck, or batch dyeing, involves stitching the ends of the carpet together, and then running the tufted carpet loop through large vats of dye and water for several hours. The Beck process is ideal for smaller production runs, and heavier face weight products.
Continuous dyeing is a similar process to Beck dyeing, but involves running the carpet through several processes in addition to just the dye application. Continuous dyeing applies the color directly to the carpet face by spraying or printing. This process is also used to create multicolor or patterned effects in the carpet.
Screen printing is another common method of carpet coloring, where color is applied through anywhere from one to as many as eight silk-screens.
The major benefits of carpet dyeing, that is dyeing the carpet after the tufting process, are greater color flexibility, and lower cost.
carpet dying
And the third and final manufacturing step is the finishing process.
This process is typically a single production line that completes the final stage of the carpet construction.
In the finishing process, a coating of latex is applied to both the tufted, dyed carpet’s primary backing, and also to secondary backing. Secondary backing is typically made of a woven synthetic polypropylene material. The two parts are squeezed together in a large heated press, where they are held firmly to preserve their shape.
Shearing, one of the last stages in the manufacture of carpet, is the process of removing all of the little loose ends and projecting fibers that might have been created during the tufting process. It also helps achieve the yarn’s tip definition of the finished carpet.
Finally, each carpet is carefully inspected for color uniformity and other manufacturing defects before it is rolled, wrapped, and shipped.
That’s the story on how carpet is made. We hope it helps you be a more savvy shopper. If anything, now you can throw the word “ polypropylene” around at the party to celebrate your home’s beautiful new carpeting.
We found this article at http://www.wfca.org/carpet/howmade.aspx.
Today’s healthiest carpets get plenty of fiber.
Fiber is the basic material that a carpet is made up of. Over ninety percent of all of the carpet made today is made up of synthetic fiber. The rest is natural fiber, most commonly wool. First, let’s look at the most common synthetic fibers.
Synthetic fibers are usually made up of one of three materials: nylon, polypropylene or polyester. All three are created by similar chemical processes using oil and natural gas.
You can rely on nylon.
70% of carpet today is made of nylon and, compared to the other fibers below, it performs the best overall. Nylon is the leader in: appearance retention, fade and heat resistance, soil and stain resistance, and color and styling. The highest performance nylon is Type 6.6, which has a tighter molecular construction, making the carpet more resistant to stain penetration.
Go slow, long word ahead.
The next most common material used in carpet manufacturing is polypropylene, also referred to as olefin. Introduced in the late 1950’s in Italy , polypropylene BCF has seen fast growth over the last twenty years, and today represents more than thirty percent of the total fibers used in the carpet industry.
While polypropylene is not as resilient or resistant to abrasion as nylon, it is naturally stain and fade resistant. Its natural resistance to moisture means that it must be dyed before being extruded, resulting in a more limited range of color options. Polypropylene is most often used in loop pile carpet constructions.
Does polyester suit you?
The third type of material commonly used in carpet manufacturing is polyester. Polyester was introduced to the carpet industry in the mid 1960’s, and has been well accepted for its bulkiness, color clarity, and good stain and fade resistance. While not as resilient as nylon, Polyester fiber carpet constructed with today’s new technologies can be a good performer.
The dyed-in-the-wool original.
The above three materials make up the majority of synthetic fibers. The other type of fiber used in carpet construction is staple fiber. While some synthetics are used in the creation of staple fibers, the original staple fiber used in the making of carpet is wool.
The wool used in today’s carpet comes primarily from New Zealand, Argentina, and the United Kingdom. Since wool is a natural fiber, it ranges in color from off-white to black, with many earthen tones between.
Berber, now considered a type of carpet construction, actually comes from the name of a group of North African sheepherders called the Berbers. The Berbers were known to produce very coarse wool, with characteristic color flecks in their yarns.
Although wool doesn’t stand up to abrasion and moisture as well as synthetics, it cleans well and is known to age gracefully. Wool is the most expensive carpet fiber, and represents less than one percent of the U.S. carpet market.
carpet fiber
The production of carpet, a 3-part epic.
There are basically three steps to manufacturing carpet. The first step is what is called tufting. Tufting begins with the process of weaving the synthetic or staple fiber into a primary backing material. The primary backing material is usually made of woven polypropylene, and its main value is to provide a base cloth to hold the yarn in place while the tufting happens.
The tufting machine looks like a really big sewing machine. It has anywhere from 800 to 2000 needles working in concert to pull the yarn through the primary backing material. The typical tufting machine sits about 12 feet wide, and as its needles penetrate the backing, a small hook called a looper grabs the yarn and holds it in place. This process results in what is called loop pile construction.
Loop pile products hold their appearance exceptionally well. Since there are no exposed yarn tips, only the sides of the yarn are exposed to wear and stress. Generally speaking, low profile loop carpet stands up to heavy traffic best.
Cut to the next scene.
In some carpet styles the looper then rocks back against a knife, where the small loops of yarn are cut, creating what we call a cut pile carpet. The length of these cut pieces of yarn is referred to as the pile height, and is basically the distance between the looper and the primary backing.
These precision cuts are controlled by a computer, and are sometimes programmed to cut only some of the loops. This method of selectively cutting, called cut and loop construction, creates a recognizable pattern on the surface of the carpet.
Now let’s pause in our construction story to identify and explain some terms and construction variables that you will encounter while making a carpet purchase decision.
Pile height, or nap, is the length of the tuft measured from the primary backing to the yarn tips. It’s usually shown as a fraction, or sometimes its decimal equivalent. Usually shorter pile heights are more durable than longer pile heights.
The stitch rate of a carpet is the measure of how close the yarns are together. Stitch rate is measured in penetrations, or tufts, in a given length of carpet, usually an inch. The stitch rate is controlled by how fast the carpet is moved through the tufting machine. Seven to eight tufts per inch is a good number, while three or four is pretty poor.
Face weight is determined by the actual amount of fiber per square yard, and is measured in ounces. A typical carpet may have a face weight of 35 to 45 ounces for example.
Finally, density is a measure of how tightly the yarn is stitched into the primary backing. Higher density carpet will typically wear better than low density carpet.
carpet binding
The second step of carpet manufacturing is to dye for.
Now the carpet is taken through one of two dyeing processes. The first method of dyeing is called yarn dyeing, or sometimes pre-dyeing, where the color is applied to the yarn prior to tufting.
The advantages of all yarn dyeing methods include good side-by-side color consistency, large lot sizes, and uniformity.
The second method involves applying color to the yarn after the carpet has been tufted. This method is called carpet dyeing. There are several carpet dyeing methods in use, each producing a unique end result.
The first technique, often referred to as Beck, or batch dyeing, involves stitching the ends of the carpet together, and then running the tufted carpet loop through large vats of dye and water for several hours. The Beck process is ideal for smaller production runs, and heavier face weight products.
Continuous dyeing is a similar process to Beck dyeing, but involves running the carpet through several processes in addition to just the dye application. Continuous dyeing applies the color directly to the carpet face by spraying or printing. This process is also used to create multicolor or patterned effects in the carpet.
Screen printing is another common method of carpet coloring, where color is applied through anywhere from one to as many as eight silk-screens.
The major benefits of carpet dyeing, that is dyeing the carpet after the tufting process, are greater color flexibility, and lower cost.
carpet dying
And the third and final manufacturing step is the finishing process.
This process is typically a single production line that completes the final stage of the carpet construction.
In the finishing process, a coating of latex is applied to both the tufted, dyed carpet’s primary backing, and also to secondary backing. Secondary backing is typically made of a woven synthetic polypropylene material. The two parts are squeezed together in a large heated press, where they are held firmly to preserve their shape.
Shearing, one of the last stages in the manufacture of carpet, is the process of removing all of the little loose ends and projecting fibers that might have been created during the tufting process. It also helps achieve the yarn’s tip definition of the finished carpet.
Finally, each carpet is carefully inspected for color uniformity and other manufacturing defects before it is rolled, wrapped, and shipped.
That’s the story on how carpet is made. We hope it helps you be a more savvy shopper. If anything, now you can throw the word “ polypropylene” around at the party to celebrate your home’s beautiful new carpeting.
Wednesday
How to Remove Paint from a Carpet
To view this video visit: http://www.howtodothings.com/video/how-to-remove-paint-from-a-carpet
Saturday
Hardwood Floors 101 Part Four
Secrets to Preserving Hardwood Floors: 3 Must-Follow Rules
To extend the life of your hardwood floor no matter what the finish, keep in mind these three simple rules:
Sweep or vacuum often. Ground-in dirt destroys wood floors. To prevent buildup, clean floors once or twice a day in high-traffic areas, like the kitchen and dining room. No time? Cut down on sweeping time by placing a doormat at each entrance to your home. (Some estimates suggest that doormats eliminate 80 percent of the dirt tracked inside!)
Wipe up mud and spills immediately. Wood is easily damaged by water.
Choose carpeting wisely. If you aim to protect your wood floor with a rug, be cautious. Rug dyes have been known to stain floors, and plastic backings may affect the wood finish. Ask the carpet store to recommend an underpad as a safeguard.
To View this Article Click Here
To extend the life of your hardwood floor no matter what the finish, keep in mind these three simple rules:
Sweep or vacuum often. Ground-in dirt destroys wood floors. To prevent buildup, clean floors once or twice a day in high-traffic areas, like the kitchen and dining room. No time? Cut down on sweeping time by placing a doormat at each entrance to your home. (Some estimates suggest that doormats eliminate 80 percent of the dirt tracked inside!)
Wipe up mud and spills immediately. Wood is easily damaged by water.
Choose carpeting wisely. If you aim to protect your wood floor with a rug, be cautious. Rug dyes have been known to stain floors, and plastic backings may affect the wood finish. Ask the carpet store to recommend an underpad as a safeguard.
To View this Article Click Here
Thursday
Hardwood Floors 101 Part Three
Cleaning Penetrating-Seal-Treated, Oil-Treated, Shellacked, Varnished, Lacquered or Untreated Floors
Product Do's and Don'ts
Do use stripper to remove old wax buildup. Choose a product the floor manufacturer recommends, a commercial product from the hardware store or mineral spirits.
Do use liquid wax designed for wood floors or paste wax. Liquid wax is easier to apply but leaves a thinner coat (and provides less protection) than paste wax.
Don't use acrylic or water-based waxes, furniture waxes or one-step waxes. Acrylic and water-based waxes can turn floors white, furniture wax creates a slick surface and one-step waxes (despite the compelling pitches: They clean! They remove old wax! They lay down new wax!) can trap dirt.
Routine Cleaning
Do NOT damp-mop waxed floors. Just vacuum and sweep the surface regularly.
Once or twice a year, strip the old wax and apply a fresh new coat. If a high-traffic area gets dull in between treatments, you can spot-wax the area.
Waxing Technique
Vacuum the floor to remove dust.
Strip the old wax with stripper (following the manufacturer's instructions) or mineral spirits (rub into wood and then wipe off with a clean, soft cloth). Keep the area well ventilated as you work and as the floor dries.
After the floor has dried, apply a thin coat of wax, using an applicator (if you're using liquid wax) or a cloth (if you're using paste wax). Let the wax dry. For added protection, apply a second coat of wax.
Finally, buff. Use a cloth or, to make the job easier, rent a buffing machine. Remember to always buff in the direction of the wood grain.
Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems
White water spots marring your floor's finish? Add a small amount of mineral spirits to an extra-fine (0000) steel wool pad and gently rub the area in a circular motion. Keep the area well ventilated as you work.
Got heel marks that won't wipe off? Add a small amount of wax to an extra-fine (0000) steel wool pad and gently rub the area in a circular motion.
Food stains causing you trouble? Wipe the surface with a damp cloth, rub dry and wax. When removing any stain (from wood or carpet), always work from the outside edge in toward the center.
To view full article Click Here
Product Do's and Don'ts
Do use stripper to remove old wax buildup. Choose a product the floor manufacturer recommends, a commercial product from the hardware store or mineral spirits.
Do use liquid wax designed for wood floors or paste wax. Liquid wax is easier to apply but leaves a thinner coat (and provides less protection) than paste wax.
Don't use acrylic or water-based waxes, furniture waxes or one-step waxes. Acrylic and water-based waxes can turn floors white, furniture wax creates a slick surface and one-step waxes (despite the compelling pitches: They clean! They remove old wax! They lay down new wax!) can trap dirt.
Routine Cleaning
Do NOT damp-mop waxed floors. Just vacuum and sweep the surface regularly.
Once or twice a year, strip the old wax and apply a fresh new coat. If a high-traffic area gets dull in between treatments, you can spot-wax the area.
Waxing Technique
Vacuum the floor to remove dust.
Strip the old wax with stripper (following the manufacturer's instructions) or mineral spirits (rub into wood and then wipe off with a clean, soft cloth). Keep the area well ventilated as you work and as the floor dries.
After the floor has dried, apply a thin coat of wax, using an applicator (if you're using liquid wax) or a cloth (if you're using paste wax). Let the wax dry. For added protection, apply a second coat of wax.
Finally, buff. Use a cloth or, to make the job easier, rent a buffing machine. Remember to always buff in the direction of the wood grain.
Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems
White water spots marring your floor's finish? Add a small amount of mineral spirits to an extra-fine (0000) steel wool pad and gently rub the area in a circular motion. Keep the area well ventilated as you work.
Got heel marks that won't wipe off? Add a small amount of wax to an extra-fine (0000) steel wool pad and gently rub the area in a circular motion.
Food stains causing you trouble? Wipe the surface with a damp cloth, rub dry and wax. When removing any stain (from wood or carpet), always work from the outside edge in toward the center.
To view full article Click Here
Wednesday
Hardwood Floors 101 Part Two
Product Do's and Don'ts
Don't use oils, waxes or furniture sprays. Oil leaves a residue, furniture spray creates a slippery surface (think ice-skating rink!) and wax takes time to apply and makes recoating (see Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems) difficult.
Don't use straight ammonia, alkaline products or abrasive cleaners. They'll dull or scratch the finish.
Do use a floor-cleaning product recommended by the floor finisher or opt for plain soap and water. If the recommended product is hard to find or costly, and other floor cleaners contain ingredients that violate your floor's warranty, try soap and water. I add a quarter cup of mild or pH-neutral soap (like liquid dishwashing soap) or Murphy Oil Soap (despite the name, it doesn't contain oil) to a bucket of water.
Don't rely on water alone or a vinegar and water solution. Mopping with water will result in dingy-looking floors and won't-budge dirt buildup. Vinegar and water is not as effective as soapy water and—some suggest—may dull floors sooner. (Eventual dullness and the need to recoat are inevitable no matter what you use. See Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems.)
Routine Cleaning
In high-traffic areas, like the dining room and kitchen, you should sweep daily, if possible, and mop once or twice a week.
Mop less-trafficked areas once a month or once a season.
Mopping Technique
Remember: Water is wood's worst enemy (even on sealed floors!), so use a damp mop rather than a soaking wet one.
Dip the mop into the bucket of prepared cleaning solution, wring it out completely, mop in the direction of the wood grain and repeat. When the water gets dirty, empty the bucket, mix a new batch of cleaning solution and continue mopping.
When finished, go back over the entire surface with clean water to rinse.
Don't be afraid to get on your hands and knees if necessary. When a floor needs serious attention, I clean it with a cloth. (It's better than a sponge because you can "feel" the dirt as you wipe!)
Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems
Scuff marks getting you down? A bit of baking soda on a damp sponge will erase them.
Noticed a stubborn food, water or grease stain on your surface-sealed floor? Always use a commercial cleaner to treat this problem.
Hairline cracks in the floor? Don't panic and attempt to fill them. Dry heat during the winter months causes wood floors to shrink and crack. Cracks should close up during the summer (though using a humidifier can also help).
Finish looking dull? Sand the floor lightly and recoat with an additional layer or two. Recoating is necessary about every five to seven years.
To view entire articleClick Here
Don't use oils, waxes or furniture sprays. Oil leaves a residue, furniture spray creates a slippery surface (think ice-skating rink!) and wax takes time to apply and makes recoating (see Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems) difficult.
Don't use straight ammonia, alkaline products or abrasive cleaners. They'll dull or scratch the finish.
Do use a floor-cleaning product recommended by the floor finisher or opt for plain soap and water. If the recommended product is hard to find or costly, and other floor cleaners contain ingredients that violate your floor's warranty, try soap and water. I add a quarter cup of mild or pH-neutral soap (like liquid dishwashing soap) or Murphy Oil Soap (despite the name, it doesn't contain oil) to a bucket of water.
Don't rely on water alone or a vinegar and water solution. Mopping with water will result in dingy-looking floors and won't-budge dirt buildup. Vinegar and water is not as effective as soapy water and—some suggest—may dull floors sooner. (Eventual dullness and the need to recoat are inevitable no matter what you use. See Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems.)
Routine Cleaning
In high-traffic areas, like the dining room and kitchen, you should sweep daily, if possible, and mop once or twice a week.
Mop less-trafficked areas once a month or once a season.
Mopping Technique
Remember: Water is wood's worst enemy (even on sealed floors!), so use a damp mop rather than a soaking wet one.
Dip the mop into the bucket of prepared cleaning solution, wring it out completely, mop in the direction of the wood grain and repeat. When the water gets dirty, empty the bucket, mix a new batch of cleaning solution and continue mopping.
When finished, go back over the entire surface with clean water to rinse.
Don't be afraid to get on your hands and knees if necessary. When a floor needs serious attention, I clean it with a cloth. (It's better than a sponge because you can "feel" the dirt as you wipe!)
Tackling Simple Wood Floor Problems
Scuff marks getting you down? A bit of baking soda on a damp sponge will erase them.
Noticed a stubborn food, water or grease stain on your surface-sealed floor? Always use a commercial cleaner to treat this problem.
Hairline cracks in the floor? Don't panic and attempt to fill them. Dry heat during the winter months causes wood floors to shrink and crack. Cracks should close up during the summer (though using a humidifier can also help).
Finish looking dull? Sand the floor lightly and recoat with an additional layer or two. Recoating is necessary about every five to seven years.
To view entire articleClick Here
Sunday
Hardwood Floors 101 Part One
Soap and water, polish, wax or what? Take the guesswork out of hardwood floor care and go from dull and grimy to gleaming and gorgeous in a few easy steps.
First Things First—Determine the Finish
Before you grab a bucket of water and a mop, it's best to find out how your wood floor is sealed—if at all. Why? The finish, not the wood type, determines how you clean and care for the floor.
Surface-sealed floors: Most new wood floors are sealed with urethane, polyurethane or polyacrylic. Surface-sealed floors are stain and water-damage resistant and easiest to care for and clean: Sweep, mop and you're done!
Penetrating-seal-treated and oil-treated floors: Also common, a penetrating seal or oil finish soaks into the wood grain and hardens. This type of floor must be pampered and protected with liquid or paste wax.
Lacquered, varnished, shellacked and untreated floors: Although technically surface finishes, lacquers, varnishes and shellacs are not as resistant to moisture, spills and wear as the other sealants mentioned. Treat floors with these finishes and floors with no finish as you would penetrating-seal-treated and oil-treated floors.
Not sure what kind of finish you have? To tell the difference in a pinch, just rub your finger across the floor. If no smudge appears, the floor is surface sealed. If you do create a smudge, the floor has been treated with a penetrating seal, oil finish, shellac, varnish or lacquer, and then waxed.
You can view the entire articleClick Here
First Things First—Determine the Finish
Before you grab a bucket of water and a mop, it's best to find out how your wood floor is sealed—if at all. Why? The finish, not the wood type, determines how you clean and care for the floor.
Surface-sealed floors: Most new wood floors are sealed with urethane, polyurethane or polyacrylic. Surface-sealed floors are stain and water-damage resistant and easiest to care for and clean: Sweep, mop and you're done!
Penetrating-seal-treated and oil-treated floors: Also common, a penetrating seal or oil finish soaks into the wood grain and hardens. This type of floor must be pampered and protected with liquid or paste wax.
Lacquered, varnished, shellacked and untreated floors: Although technically surface finishes, lacquers, varnishes and shellacs are not as resistant to moisture, spills and wear as the other sealants mentioned. Treat floors with these finishes and floors with no finish as you would penetrating-seal-treated and oil-treated floors.
Not sure what kind of finish you have? To tell the difference in a pinch, just rub your finger across the floor. If no smudge appears, the floor is surface sealed. If you do create a smudge, the floor has been treated with a penetrating seal, oil finish, shellac, varnish or lacquer, and then waxed.
You can view the entire articleClick Here
Friday
How do you get black marks off of a wall that is painted with flat paint, without taking the paint off?
It depends on what the black marks are. As always, I try to give you a home-style solution first. You can try some baking soda on a slightly damp sponge, or pick up a pencil with a clean eraser and try that. A last step would be to use spot remover or dry cleaning solvent. You can find this in a shoe store or in the cleaning aisle at the grocery store -- it smells like a cleaning solvent. Just wipe with a clean cloth. As always, test a little spot first to be sure it doesn't harm the finish.
You can view this at: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/heloise/cleaning/remove-wall-mark-apr02
You can view this at: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/heloise/cleaning/remove-wall-mark-apr02
Car Carpet Cleaning
To view article Click Here
There is no interior surface in an automobile that is forced to stand up to such intense and constant abuse as the carpet. People who are fussy about the carpet at home will enter and exit an automobile without a thought for what their feet are tracking in, and then grind mystery grit and goo into the car’s carpet.
There are two different cleaning methods you will need to consider. Neither of which is daunting to a detailer, but the second, and most thorough, may seem downright overwhelming if you’ve never done it before (and you probably haven’t).
Shampooing the Car’s Carpet
Make certain you use a heavy-duty carpet shampoo. The carpet in your car is rugged stuff. And all the grime, mud, sand, road salt, and oil, the sticky gross things that your shoes deliver straight to its surface, accumulate in the fibers and settle down to the rubber matting.
That carpet is tough, but the unseemly substances your shoes have ground into it are tough to remove, so you’ll need a product with cleaning chemicals as tough as the carpet is designed to withstand. There are carpet cleaners and shampoos designed to do the job in your car. Try these products rather than ones by the same companies but designed for the home.
Going Beyond Shampoo Clean
There is an even more effective cleaning technique for automobile carpet. Take the carpet completely out of the car and clean it. No, not just the floor mats, which you should remove and clean separately whenever you shampoo the carpet.
Remove the entire carpet. The job is either easier than you might think or every bit the hassle you can envision. To get the carpet out, you’ll have to unbolt the seats and remove them. There are four bolts beneath each of the front seats. Yes, even power seats can be removed. Beneath each power seat you’ll find a plug.
Unplug it. And remove the seat belts. Once you get the carpet out of the car, hang it over a fence, or better still, a small swing set, the kind with a frame shaped like the letter A.
Follow the directions on the cleaning product you choose, and then take a water hose with a nozzle you can adjust to a firm spray, and hose it down. This may seem harsh or damaging, but remember, automobile carpet is tough, tough stuff. It has to be.
Hanging the carpet over an A-framed swing set helps promote drying. The carpet will dry pretty quickly; if cleaned in the morning in the garage, by late afternoon it will be dry. If you notice that the lower edges of the carpet are slow to dry, use an air hose or a blow dryer.
There is no interior surface in an automobile that is forced to stand up to such intense and constant abuse as the carpet. People who are fussy about the carpet at home will enter and exit an automobile without a thought for what their feet are tracking in, and then grind mystery grit and goo into the car’s carpet.
There are two different cleaning methods you will need to consider. Neither of which is daunting to a detailer, but the second, and most thorough, may seem downright overwhelming if you’ve never done it before (and you probably haven’t).
Shampooing the Car’s Carpet
Make certain you use a heavy-duty carpet shampoo. The carpet in your car is rugged stuff. And all the grime, mud, sand, road salt, and oil, the sticky gross things that your shoes deliver straight to its surface, accumulate in the fibers and settle down to the rubber matting.
That carpet is tough, but the unseemly substances your shoes have ground into it are tough to remove, so you’ll need a product with cleaning chemicals as tough as the carpet is designed to withstand. There are carpet cleaners and shampoos designed to do the job in your car. Try these products rather than ones by the same companies but designed for the home.
Going Beyond Shampoo Clean
There is an even more effective cleaning technique for automobile carpet. Take the carpet completely out of the car and clean it. No, not just the floor mats, which you should remove and clean separately whenever you shampoo the carpet.
Remove the entire carpet. The job is either easier than you might think or every bit the hassle you can envision. To get the carpet out, you’ll have to unbolt the seats and remove them. There are four bolts beneath each of the front seats. Yes, even power seats can be removed. Beneath each power seat you’ll find a plug.
Unplug it. And remove the seat belts. Once you get the carpet out of the car, hang it over a fence, or better still, a small swing set, the kind with a frame shaped like the letter A.
Follow the directions on the cleaning product you choose, and then take a water hose with a nozzle you can adjust to a firm spray, and hose it down. This may seem harsh or damaging, but remember, automobile carpet is tough, tough stuff. It has to be.
Hanging the carpet over an A-framed swing set helps promote drying. The carpet will dry pretty quickly; if cleaned in the morning in the garage, by late afternoon it will be dry. If you notice that the lower edges of the carpet are slow to dry, use an air hose or a blow dryer.
Tuesday
Dirt Devil Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor SE3890 Review
We've heard about this Portable Extractor that is especially for cleaning up after pets, so we thought a review was in order to see what others thought about this product.
Although specifically designed for pet owners, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor SE3890 by Dirt Devil is sure to be a welcome addition to any stain-prone home.
If your carpets are the victims of pet stains, or if you find yourself playing "find that smell" when you search for hidden pet odors, this portable steam cleaner is a hardworking unit that will provide some relief. It can be used on carpets and upholstery, and performs equally well -- as long as the upholstery is spot-tested for durability first.
At first glance, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor seems larger than some portable steam vacuums, but its lightweight 10-pound design makes it easy to carry. The 3-inch brush is about the size we'd expect, but the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor offers one unique difference: a built-in blacklight that illuminates hidden pet stains. This integrated blacklight shines from the underside of the brush, indicating where pet stains are located -- even if they can't be seen under normal lighting conditions. Knowing where the pet stains are located is sometimes half the battle, and once they are discovered, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor does an admirable job of removing them. It has a 56-ounce tank and a 4-foot reach on the combination hose/hand tool. Although the 3 amps of power seem adequate, we question whether more power would improve suction. The Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor has decent suction, but we'd like to have seen a bit more power.
We like the 15-foot power cord, which gives plenty of room to move around most rooms. The onboard hose, tool and cord storage work well. The initial purchase includes Dirt Devil cleaning solution, so you can begin cleaning right away. It has dual, interlocking tanks to hold clean water and dirty water. The tanks are view-through, making it easy to see how much clean solution remains.
The Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor is often categorized as a steam cleaner, but unlike true steam cleaners, we found it necessary to use hot water for maximum effectiveness. The trial-size cleaning solutions that are included work well, and smell nice, which is certainly an upgrade from the odor of any pet-stained area in question. Overall, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor has a serious moniker that matches its hardworking capabilities. Even though we'd make a few improvements, like adding more power or true steam generation, it works well -- whether used on pet stains or ordinary spots.
Pros: Blacklight LED illuminates hidden pet stains, use on carpets or upholstery
Cons: Not a true steam machine
You can view this and other great reviews at: http://products.howstuffworks.com/dirt-devil-purpose-for-pets-portable-extractor-se3890-review.htm
Although specifically designed for pet owners, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor SE3890 by Dirt Devil is sure to be a welcome addition to any stain-prone home.
If your carpets are the victims of pet stains, or if you find yourself playing "find that smell" when you search for hidden pet odors, this portable steam cleaner is a hardworking unit that will provide some relief. It can be used on carpets and upholstery, and performs equally well -- as long as the upholstery is spot-tested for durability first.
At first glance, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor seems larger than some portable steam vacuums, but its lightweight 10-pound design makes it easy to carry. The 3-inch brush is about the size we'd expect, but the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor offers one unique difference: a built-in blacklight that illuminates hidden pet stains. This integrated blacklight shines from the underside of the brush, indicating where pet stains are located -- even if they can't be seen under normal lighting conditions. Knowing where the pet stains are located is sometimes half the battle, and once they are discovered, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor does an admirable job of removing them. It has a 56-ounce tank and a 4-foot reach on the combination hose/hand tool. Although the 3 amps of power seem adequate, we question whether more power would improve suction. The Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor has decent suction, but we'd like to have seen a bit more power.
We like the 15-foot power cord, which gives plenty of room to move around most rooms. The onboard hose, tool and cord storage work well. The initial purchase includes Dirt Devil cleaning solution, so you can begin cleaning right away. It has dual, interlocking tanks to hold clean water and dirty water. The tanks are view-through, making it easy to see how much clean solution remains.
The Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor is often categorized as a steam cleaner, but unlike true steam cleaners, we found it necessary to use hot water for maximum effectiveness. The trial-size cleaning solutions that are included work well, and smell nice, which is certainly an upgrade from the odor of any pet-stained area in question. Overall, the Purpose for Pets Portable Extractor has a serious moniker that matches its hardworking capabilities. Even though we'd make a few improvements, like adding more power or true steam generation, it works well -- whether used on pet stains or ordinary spots.
Pros: Blacklight LED illuminates hidden pet stains, use on carpets or upholstery
Cons: Not a true steam machine
You can view this and other great reviews at: http://products.howstuffworks.com/dirt-devil-purpose-for-pets-portable-extractor-se3890-review.htm
Monday
Cleaning No-wax/linoleum floors
Regular vacuuming or sweeping is the best way to maintain the finish. Then damp mop with plain water or add just a drop of liquid dish soap. If the floor has some tough spots to clean, use a white, nylon-backed scrub sponge. This will keep soil from wearing away the surface. However, if time and traffic eventually dull the glossy top layer, you may want to add a floor finish or wax to restore the shine. Choose any good commercial floor polish or try a self-polishing, metal-interlock floor finish available from a janitorial supply. Traffic areas may need finish applied more often than the rest of the floor. It's a good idea to keep doormats at all the entrances to your home, as they will catch much of the dirt that could eventually damage your floors.
You can view more tips at :http://www.merrymaids.com/cleaningtips/#floors
You can view more tips at :http://www.merrymaids.com/cleaningtips/#floors
How to Clean Grout
Old grout may need cleaning with a wax stripper or heavy-duty cleaner plus a grout brush. Use a bleaching cleanser on tough spots. Once the grout is as clean as you can get it, rinse it well. When it's thoroughly dry, apply a coat of masonry sealer so that it doesn't absorb dirt in the future.
For mildewed grout in tubs or showers, use a grout brush with a 1:5 solution of chlorine bleach and water. Never use bleach in combination with any ammonia-based product and be sure the area is well-ventilated. When you've finished cleaning, rinse the area well to remove all traces of bleach.
Clean colored grout with a heavy-duty cleaner and a grout brush, but don't use bleach because this may remove the color from the grout. Be sure never to use a bleaching solution on colored grout. A masonry sealer can be applied to clean, colored grout to ward off future stains.
You can view this article at: http://www.merrymaids.com/cleaningtips/#grout
For mildewed grout in tubs or showers, use a grout brush with a 1:5 solution of chlorine bleach and water. Never use bleach in combination with any ammonia-based product and be sure the area is well-ventilated. When you've finished cleaning, rinse the area well to remove all traces of bleach.
Clean colored grout with a heavy-duty cleaner and a grout brush, but don't use bleach because this may remove the color from the grout. Be sure never to use a bleaching solution on colored grout. A masonry sealer can be applied to clean, colored grout to ward off future stains.
You can view this article at: http://www.merrymaids.com/cleaningtips/#grout
Another Steam Mop Review - SteamFast SF-140 Steam Mop
This is supposed to be the best inexpensive Steam Mop. Read the review below to find out more!
Best inexpensive steam mop
pros
* Swiveling mop head
* Uses tap water
* Easy to fill and maneuver
* 19-foot power cord
* Removable handle
cons
* Durability complaints
* Relatively small water reservoir
* Can leave floors wet
* Can't be used on all types of flooring
* Doesn't sanitize unless left in place for 15 seconds
Reviewers and owners agree that the SteamFast SF-140 steam mop is the best option in its price range, although the Bissell 1867-7 steam mop (*est. $80) gets better reviews overall. The SteamFast mop can steam for about 12 minutes without refilling (compared to 15 minutes for the Bissell version), and reviews say it cuts right through dried liquids and other stains on a variety of flooring materials. As with all steam mops, the SteamFast SF-140 should not be used on unsealed wood or cork floors. Some owners say that they use towels to absorb excess water left on the floor after mopping, but this is a very common complaint about steam mops. If you can budget more for a steam mop, reviews say that the Bissell 1867-7 is sturdier.
We read the best review of the SteamFast SF-140 at KYW-TV's website CBS3.com, which records the results of Good Housekeeping's steam-mop testing. This mop aced the testing and outperformed the other two mops tested. At Amazon.com, this mop has garnered a handful of reviews, but at Walmart.com, it's been reviewed more than 150 times.
You can view more reviews at: http://www.consumersearch.com/steam-mops/steamfast-sf-140-steam-mop
Best inexpensive steam mop
pros
* Swiveling mop head
* Uses tap water
* Easy to fill and maneuver
* 19-foot power cord
* Removable handle
cons
* Durability complaints
* Relatively small water reservoir
* Can leave floors wet
* Can't be used on all types of flooring
* Doesn't sanitize unless left in place for 15 seconds
Reviewers and owners agree that the SteamFast SF-140 steam mop is the best option in its price range, although the Bissell 1867-7 steam mop (*est. $80) gets better reviews overall. The SteamFast mop can steam for about 12 minutes without refilling (compared to 15 minutes for the Bissell version), and reviews say it cuts right through dried liquids and other stains on a variety of flooring materials. As with all steam mops, the SteamFast SF-140 should not be used on unsealed wood or cork floors. Some owners say that they use towels to absorb excess water left on the floor after mopping, but this is a very common complaint about steam mops. If you can budget more for a steam mop, reviews say that the Bissell 1867-7 is sturdier.
We read the best review of the SteamFast SF-140 at KYW-TV's website CBS3.com, which records the results of Good Housekeeping's steam-mop testing. This mop aced the testing and outperformed the other two mops tested. At Amazon.com, this mop has garnered a handful of reviews, but at Walmart.com, it's been reviewed more than 150 times.
You can view more reviews at: http://www.consumersearch.com/steam-mops/steamfast-sf-140-steam-mop
Sunday
Great Website for Throw Rugs
Visit this website for beatiful throw rugs Here
Throw rugs can be the focal point of a room, create cozy conversation areas, provide a splash of color or be a unifying element that ties colors together. Plus, they can quickly and easily give rooms character!
Browse our formal indoor rugs to add a look of richness and texture to any setting. Made of 100% polypropylene, our indoor/outdoor rugs resist mold and mildew and clean easily. Combining beauty and functionality in one piece, you can use these versatile throw rugs to make a statement in any room of your home!
Door mats are the first impression a visitor gets when entering your home. Browse our collection of heavy-duty coir door mats to find an attractive, long-lasting mat that fits your needs.
Don't miss our new Home Accessories section where you will find beautiful and unique accessories to enhance your home. From throw pillows to decorative shelves, you are sure to find that extra something to brighten up any room!
Unsure of what size or type throw rug you need? Visit our Choosing a Throw Rug information page for great tips!
Throw rugs can be the focal point of a room, create cozy conversation areas, provide a splash of color or be a unifying element that ties colors together. Plus, they can quickly and easily give rooms character!
Browse our formal indoor rugs to add a look of richness and texture to any setting. Made of 100% polypropylene, our indoor/outdoor rugs resist mold and mildew and clean easily. Combining beauty and functionality in one piece, you can use these versatile throw rugs to make a statement in any room of your home!
Door mats are the first impression a visitor gets when entering your home. Browse our collection of heavy-duty coir door mats to find an attractive, long-lasting mat that fits your needs.
Don't miss our new Home Accessories section where you will find beautiful and unique accessories to enhance your home. From throw pillows to decorative shelves, you are sure to find that extra something to brighten up any room!
Unsure of what size or type throw rug you need? Visit our Choosing a Throw Rug information page for great tips!
Bissell 1867-7 Steam Mop Review for Tile Floors
Best steam mop
- Uses plain water
- Sturdy build
- Pivoting head gets into corners
- Removes scuffs and stuck-on stains
- Ready indicator light
- Washable mop-head cover
- Can't be used on all types of flooring
- Doesn't sanitize unless left in place for 15 seconds
- Leaves floors wet
- 17-foot cord too short for some
- Must depress trigger to release steam
We read the best reviews of this mop at Amazon.com, where it has accumulated 450 reviews. We also found several dozen owner-written reviews of the Bissell 1867-7 at Epinions.com. Green-cleaning blogger Danny Seo posts a brief, glowing writeup about this mop to his blog.
Find more product reviews at: http://www.consumersearch.com/steam-mops/bissell-1867-7-steam-mop
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