We hope this article helps to give you some idea's about carpet cleaning costs
You can view the full article Click Here
The industry recommended time to have carpets cleaned is every 12-18 months, yet the average homeowner has her carpets cleaned every 7 years. "If it vacuums up, then it ain't dirty," as the old saying goes. The reason for the discrepancy between the time recommended and the span before they are actually cleaned results from the public not knowing how often this should be done, not to mention some misconception about costs. This article works towards solving these issues and a few others as well.
Average Carpet Cleaning Costs
The average home has about 1000 square feet (sq ft) of carpet. The national average for carpet cleaning costs on this size home is $.30/sq ft, which brings the actual carpet cleaning cost to $300. So the typical home spends around $43 a year for clean carpets, if the carpets in that home are being cleaned every 7 years.
If you happen to have more carpet than a typical home, you are likely to get a per sq ft discount, since your home is a bigger job. However, cleaning carpet costs will go up if you have less.
Less is More
In order for carpet cleaning companies to make a profit on homes with less than 1000 sq ft of carpet, they have to raise the price per sq ft. The company still has to drive out to your house, unroll all of their hoses, set up their equipment, do the work, and the break it all back down. This takes time. So don't feel that you are being ripped off if your price per square foot is higher than your neighbors'. This is an industry standard.
Trick of the Trade
If carpet cleaning costs are more than you think they should be, here are a few ways that can help you cut down on costs.
If you schedule a regular yearly cleaning with your carpet company, you are likely to be able to negotiate for a lower price. With homeowners cleaning their carpets every 7 years, you will be way ahead of the curve and in the position to ask for a discounted price, since you are such a regular customer.
Next, most companies who clean carpets also do other cleanings, such as upholstery and ducts. If you bundle all of the chores together and have them performed by the same company on the same trip, even though the entire cleaning will cost more, you will be saving money on each individual process, since they are only making one trip.
The Final Word
The items and prices listed above are just averages that we have gathered from our carpet services across the nation. Not every service will give you the same price or negotiate for the same kind of deals. However, if you think that the price you were quoted for your cleaning is too high, be sure to get several estimates so that you can see if your area just charges a higher rate.
*Remember. Carpets last longer and look better with regular cleanings, plus carpet traps dust, dander, and allergens that can cause health issues. This is an inexpensive process that does wonders for your home and family.
Matt Myers is a freelance writer for the home maintenance and remodeling industry. Formerly a contractor specializing in deck building and casework, Matt has written over 500 articles for both homeowners and contractors.
Read more: http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.Carpet-Cleaning-Costs.13808.html#ixzz0f4k4wVAO
Showing posts with label Cleaning Buddys Products. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cleaning Buddys Products. Show all posts
Sunday
Thursday
How Carpet is Made
We thought this was a great article to help you learn more about how your carpet is made, so that you will know the best way to take care of it!
We found this article at http://www.wfca.org/carpet/howmade.aspx.
Today’s healthiest carpets get plenty of fiber.
Fiber is the basic material that a carpet is made up of. Over ninety percent of all of the carpet made today is made up of synthetic fiber. The rest is natural fiber, most commonly wool. First, let’s look at the most common synthetic fibers.
Synthetic fibers are usually made up of one of three materials: nylon, polypropylene or polyester. All three are created by similar chemical processes using oil and natural gas.
You can rely on nylon.
70% of carpet today is made of nylon and, compared to the other fibers below, it performs the best overall. Nylon is the leader in: appearance retention, fade and heat resistance, soil and stain resistance, and color and styling. The highest performance nylon is Type 6.6, which has a tighter molecular construction, making the carpet more resistant to stain penetration.
Go slow, long word ahead.
The next most common material used in carpet manufacturing is polypropylene, also referred to as olefin. Introduced in the late 1950’s in Italy , polypropylene BCF has seen fast growth over the last twenty years, and today represents more than thirty percent of the total fibers used in the carpet industry.
While polypropylene is not as resilient or resistant to abrasion as nylon, it is naturally stain and fade resistant. Its natural resistance to moisture means that it must be dyed before being extruded, resulting in a more limited range of color options. Polypropylene is most often used in loop pile carpet constructions.
Does polyester suit you?
The third type of material commonly used in carpet manufacturing is polyester. Polyester was introduced to the carpet industry in the mid 1960’s, and has been well accepted for its bulkiness, color clarity, and good stain and fade resistance. While not as resilient as nylon, Polyester fiber carpet constructed with today’s new technologies can be a good performer.
The dyed-in-the-wool original.
The above three materials make up the majority of synthetic fibers. The other type of fiber used in carpet construction is staple fiber. While some synthetics are used in the creation of staple fibers, the original staple fiber used in the making of carpet is wool.
The wool used in today’s carpet comes primarily from New Zealand, Argentina, and the United Kingdom. Since wool is a natural fiber, it ranges in color from off-white to black, with many earthen tones between.
Berber, now considered a type of carpet construction, actually comes from the name of a group of North African sheepherders called the Berbers. The Berbers were known to produce very coarse wool, with characteristic color flecks in their yarns.
Although wool doesn’t stand up to abrasion and moisture as well as synthetics, it cleans well and is known to age gracefully. Wool is the most expensive carpet fiber, and represents less than one percent of the U.S. carpet market.
carpet fiber
The production of carpet, a 3-part epic.
There are basically three steps to manufacturing carpet. The first step is what is called tufting. Tufting begins with the process of weaving the synthetic or staple fiber into a primary backing material. The primary backing material is usually made of woven polypropylene, and its main value is to provide a base cloth to hold the yarn in place while the tufting happens.
The tufting machine looks like a really big sewing machine. It has anywhere from 800 to 2000 needles working in concert to pull the yarn through the primary backing material. The typical tufting machine sits about 12 feet wide, and as its needles penetrate the backing, a small hook called a looper grabs the yarn and holds it in place. This process results in what is called loop pile construction.
Loop pile products hold their appearance exceptionally well. Since there are no exposed yarn tips, only the sides of the yarn are exposed to wear and stress. Generally speaking, low profile loop carpet stands up to heavy traffic best.
Cut to the next scene.
In some carpet styles the looper then rocks back against a knife, where the small loops of yarn are cut, creating what we call a cut pile carpet. The length of these cut pieces of yarn is referred to as the pile height, and is basically the distance between the looper and the primary backing.
These precision cuts are controlled by a computer, and are sometimes programmed to cut only some of the loops. This method of selectively cutting, called cut and loop construction, creates a recognizable pattern on the surface of the carpet.
Now let’s pause in our construction story to identify and explain some terms and construction variables that you will encounter while making a carpet purchase decision.
Pile height, or nap, is the length of the tuft measured from the primary backing to the yarn tips. It’s usually shown as a fraction, or sometimes its decimal equivalent. Usually shorter pile heights are more durable than longer pile heights.
The stitch rate of a carpet is the measure of how close the yarns are together. Stitch rate is measured in penetrations, or tufts, in a given length of carpet, usually an inch. The stitch rate is controlled by how fast the carpet is moved through the tufting machine. Seven to eight tufts per inch is a good number, while three or four is pretty poor.
Face weight is determined by the actual amount of fiber per square yard, and is measured in ounces. A typical carpet may have a face weight of 35 to 45 ounces for example.
Finally, density is a measure of how tightly the yarn is stitched into the primary backing. Higher density carpet will typically wear better than low density carpet.
carpet binding
The second step of carpet manufacturing is to dye for.
Now the carpet is taken through one of two dyeing processes. The first method of dyeing is called yarn dyeing, or sometimes pre-dyeing, where the color is applied to the yarn prior to tufting.
The advantages of all yarn dyeing methods include good side-by-side color consistency, large lot sizes, and uniformity.
The second method involves applying color to the yarn after the carpet has been tufted. This method is called carpet dyeing. There are several carpet dyeing methods in use, each producing a unique end result.
The first technique, often referred to as Beck, or batch dyeing, involves stitching the ends of the carpet together, and then running the tufted carpet loop through large vats of dye and water for several hours. The Beck process is ideal for smaller production runs, and heavier face weight products.
Continuous dyeing is a similar process to Beck dyeing, but involves running the carpet through several processes in addition to just the dye application. Continuous dyeing applies the color directly to the carpet face by spraying or printing. This process is also used to create multicolor or patterned effects in the carpet.
Screen printing is another common method of carpet coloring, where color is applied through anywhere from one to as many as eight silk-screens.
The major benefits of carpet dyeing, that is dyeing the carpet after the tufting process, are greater color flexibility, and lower cost.
carpet dying
And the third and final manufacturing step is the finishing process.
This process is typically a single production line that completes the final stage of the carpet construction.
In the finishing process, a coating of latex is applied to both the tufted, dyed carpet’s primary backing, and also to secondary backing. Secondary backing is typically made of a woven synthetic polypropylene material. The two parts are squeezed together in a large heated press, where they are held firmly to preserve their shape.
Shearing, one of the last stages in the manufacture of carpet, is the process of removing all of the little loose ends and projecting fibers that might have been created during the tufting process. It also helps achieve the yarn’s tip definition of the finished carpet.
Finally, each carpet is carefully inspected for color uniformity and other manufacturing defects before it is rolled, wrapped, and shipped.
That’s the story on how carpet is made. We hope it helps you be a more savvy shopper. If anything, now you can throw the word “ polypropylene” around at the party to celebrate your home’s beautiful new carpeting.
We found this article at http://www.wfca.org/carpet/howmade.aspx.
Today’s healthiest carpets get plenty of fiber.
Fiber is the basic material that a carpet is made up of. Over ninety percent of all of the carpet made today is made up of synthetic fiber. The rest is natural fiber, most commonly wool. First, let’s look at the most common synthetic fibers.
Synthetic fibers are usually made up of one of three materials: nylon, polypropylene or polyester. All three are created by similar chemical processes using oil and natural gas.
You can rely on nylon.
70% of carpet today is made of nylon and, compared to the other fibers below, it performs the best overall. Nylon is the leader in: appearance retention, fade and heat resistance, soil and stain resistance, and color and styling. The highest performance nylon is Type 6.6, which has a tighter molecular construction, making the carpet more resistant to stain penetration.
Go slow, long word ahead.
The next most common material used in carpet manufacturing is polypropylene, also referred to as olefin. Introduced in the late 1950’s in Italy , polypropylene BCF has seen fast growth over the last twenty years, and today represents more than thirty percent of the total fibers used in the carpet industry.
While polypropylene is not as resilient or resistant to abrasion as nylon, it is naturally stain and fade resistant. Its natural resistance to moisture means that it must be dyed before being extruded, resulting in a more limited range of color options. Polypropylene is most often used in loop pile carpet constructions.
Does polyester suit you?
The third type of material commonly used in carpet manufacturing is polyester. Polyester was introduced to the carpet industry in the mid 1960’s, and has been well accepted for its bulkiness, color clarity, and good stain and fade resistance. While not as resilient as nylon, Polyester fiber carpet constructed with today’s new technologies can be a good performer.
The dyed-in-the-wool original.
The above three materials make up the majority of synthetic fibers. The other type of fiber used in carpet construction is staple fiber. While some synthetics are used in the creation of staple fibers, the original staple fiber used in the making of carpet is wool.
The wool used in today’s carpet comes primarily from New Zealand, Argentina, and the United Kingdom. Since wool is a natural fiber, it ranges in color from off-white to black, with many earthen tones between.
Berber, now considered a type of carpet construction, actually comes from the name of a group of North African sheepherders called the Berbers. The Berbers were known to produce very coarse wool, with characteristic color flecks in their yarns.
Although wool doesn’t stand up to abrasion and moisture as well as synthetics, it cleans well and is known to age gracefully. Wool is the most expensive carpet fiber, and represents less than one percent of the U.S. carpet market.
carpet fiber
The production of carpet, a 3-part epic.
There are basically three steps to manufacturing carpet. The first step is what is called tufting. Tufting begins with the process of weaving the synthetic or staple fiber into a primary backing material. The primary backing material is usually made of woven polypropylene, and its main value is to provide a base cloth to hold the yarn in place while the tufting happens.
The tufting machine looks like a really big sewing machine. It has anywhere from 800 to 2000 needles working in concert to pull the yarn through the primary backing material. The typical tufting machine sits about 12 feet wide, and as its needles penetrate the backing, a small hook called a looper grabs the yarn and holds it in place. This process results in what is called loop pile construction.
Loop pile products hold their appearance exceptionally well. Since there are no exposed yarn tips, only the sides of the yarn are exposed to wear and stress. Generally speaking, low profile loop carpet stands up to heavy traffic best.
Cut to the next scene.
In some carpet styles the looper then rocks back against a knife, where the small loops of yarn are cut, creating what we call a cut pile carpet. The length of these cut pieces of yarn is referred to as the pile height, and is basically the distance between the looper and the primary backing.
These precision cuts are controlled by a computer, and are sometimes programmed to cut only some of the loops. This method of selectively cutting, called cut and loop construction, creates a recognizable pattern on the surface of the carpet.
Now let’s pause in our construction story to identify and explain some terms and construction variables that you will encounter while making a carpet purchase decision.
Pile height, or nap, is the length of the tuft measured from the primary backing to the yarn tips. It’s usually shown as a fraction, or sometimes its decimal equivalent. Usually shorter pile heights are more durable than longer pile heights.
The stitch rate of a carpet is the measure of how close the yarns are together. Stitch rate is measured in penetrations, or tufts, in a given length of carpet, usually an inch. The stitch rate is controlled by how fast the carpet is moved through the tufting machine. Seven to eight tufts per inch is a good number, while three or four is pretty poor.
Face weight is determined by the actual amount of fiber per square yard, and is measured in ounces. A typical carpet may have a face weight of 35 to 45 ounces for example.
Finally, density is a measure of how tightly the yarn is stitched into the primary backing. Higher density carpet will typically wear better than low density carpet.
carpet binding
The second step of carpet manufacturing is to dye for.
Now the carpet is taken through one of two dyeing processes. The first method of dyeing is called yarn dyeing, or sometimes pre-dyeing, where the color is applied to the yarn prior to tufting.
The advantages of all yarn dyeing methods include good side-by-side color consistency, large lot sizes, and uniformity.
The second method involves applying color to the yarn after the carpet has been tufted. This method is called carpet dyeing. There are several carpet dyeing methods in use, each producing a unique end result.
The first technique, often referred to as Beck, or batch dyeing, involves stitching the ends of the carpet together, and then running the tufted carpet loop through large vats of dye and water for several hours. The Beck process is ideal for smaller production runs, and heavier face weight products.
Continuous dyeing is a similar process to Beck dyeing, but involves running the carpet through several processes in addition to just the dye application. Continuous dyeing applies the color directly to the carpet face by spraying or printing. This process is also used to create multicolor or patterned effects in the carpet.
Screen printing is another common method of carpet coloring, where color is applied through anywhere from one to as many as eight silk-screens.
The major benefits of carpet dyeing, that is dyeing the carpet after the tufting process, are greater color flexibility, and lower cost.
carpet dying
And the third and final manufacturing step is the finishing process.
This process is typically a single production line that completes the final stage of the carpet construction.
In the finishing process, a coating of latex is applied to both the tufted, dyed carpet’s primary backing, and also to secondary backing. Secondary backing is typically made of a woven synthetic polypropylene material. The two parts are squeezed together in a large heated press, where they are held firmly to preserve their shape.
Shearing, one of the last stages in the manufacture of carpet, is the process of removing all of the little loose ends and projecting fibers that might have been created during the tufting process. It also helps achieve the yarn’s tip definition of the finished carpet.
Finally, each carpet is carefully inspected for color uniformity and other manufacturing defects before it is rolled, wrapped, and shipped.
That’s the story on how carpet is made. We hope it helps you be a more savvy shopper. If anything, now you can throw the word “ polypropylene” around at the party to celebrate your home’s beautiful new carpeting.
Friday
How do you get black marks off of a wall that is painted with flat paint, without taking the paint off?
It depends on what the black marks are. As always, I try to give you a home-style solution first. You can try some baking soda on a slightly damp sponge, or pick up a pencil with a clean eraser and try that. A last step would be to use spot remover or dry cleaning solvent. You can find this in a shoe store or in the cleaning aisle at the grocery store -- it smells like a cleaning solvent. Just wipe with a clean cloth. As always, test a little spot first to be sure it doesn't harm the finish.
You can view this at: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/heloise/cleaning/remove-wall-mark-apr02
You can view this at: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/heloise/cleaning/remove-wall-mark-apr02
Car Carpet Cleaning
To view article Click Here
There is no interior surface in an automobile that is forced to stand up to such intense and constant abuse as the carpet. People who are fussy about the carpet at home will enter and exit an automobile without a thought for what their feet are tracking in, and then grind mystery grit and goo into the car’s carpet.
There are two different cleaning methods you will need to consider. Neither of which is daunting to a detailer, but the second, and most thorough, may seem downright overwhelming if you’ve never done it before (and you probably haven’t).
Shampooing the Car’s Carpet
Make certain you use a heavy-duty carpet shampoo. The carpet in your car is rugged stuff. And all the grime, mud, sand, road salt, and oil, the sticky gross things that your shoes deliver straight to its surface, accumulate in the fibers and settle down to the rubber matting.
That carpet is tough, but the unseemly substances your shoes have ground into it are tough to remove, so you’ll need a product with cleaning chemicals as tough as the carpet is designed to withstand. There are carpet cleaners and shampoos designed to do the job in your car. Try these products rather than ones by the same companies but designed for the home.
Going Beyond Shampoo Clean
There is an even more effective cleaning technique for automobile carpet. Take the carpet completely out of the car and clean it. No, not just the floor mats, which you should remove and clean separately whenever you shampoo the carpet.
Remove the entire carpet. The job is either easier than you might think or every bit the hassle you can envision. To get the carpet out, you’ll have to unbolt the seats and remove them. There are four bolts beneath each of the front seats. Yes, even power seats can be removed. Beneath each power seat you’ll find a plug.
Unplug it. And remove the seat belts. Once you get the carpet out of the car, hang it over a fence, or better still, a small swing set, the kind with a frame shaped like the letter A.
Follow the directions on the cleaning product you choose, and then take a water hose with a nozzle you can adjust to a firm spray, and hose it down. This may seem harsh or damaging, but remember, automobile carpet is tough, tough stuff. It has to be.
Hanging the carpet over an A-framed swing set helps promote drying. The carpet will dry pretty quickly; if cleaned in the morning in the garage, by late afternoon it will be dry. If you notice that the lower edges of the carpet are slow to dry, use an air hose or a blow dryer.
There is no interior surface in an automobile that is forced to stand up to such intense and constant abuse as the carpet. People who are fussy about the carpet at home will enter and exit an automobile without a thought for what their feet are tracking in, and then grind mystery grit and goo into the car’s carpet.
There are two different cleaning methods you will need to consider. Neither of which is daunting to a detailer, but the second, and most thorough, may seem downright overwhelming if you’ve never done it before (and you probably haven’t).
Shampooing the Car’s Carpet
Make certain you use a heavy-duty carpet shampoo. The carpet in your car is rugged stuff. And all the grime, mud, sand, road salt, and oil, the sticky gross things that your shoes deliver straight to its surface, accumulate in the fibers and settle down to the rubber matting.
That carpet is tough, but the unseemly substances your shoes have ground into it are tough to remove, so you’ll need a product with cleaning chemicals as tough as the carpet is designed to withstand. There are carpet cleaners and shampoos designed to do the job in your car. Try these products rather than ones by the same companies but designed for the home.
Going Beyond Shampoo Clean
There is an even more effective cleaning technique for automobile carpet. Take the carpet completely out of the car and clean it. No, not just the floor mats, which you should remove and clean separately whenever you shampoo the carpet.
Remove the entire carpet. The job is either easier than you might think or every bit the hassle you can envision. To get the carpet out, you’ll have to unbolt the seats and remove them. There are four bolts beneath each of the front seats. Yes, even power seats can be removed. Beneath each power seat you’ll find a plug.
Unplug it. And remove the seat belts. Once you get the carpet out of the car, hang it over a fence, or better still, a small swing set, the kind with a frame shaped like the letter A.
Follow the directions on the cleaning product you choose, and then take a water hose with a nozzle you can adjust to a firm spray, and hose it down. This may seem harsh or damaging, but remember, automobile carpet is tough, tough stuff. It has to be.
Hanging the carpet over an A-framed swing set helps promote drying. The carpet will dry pretty quickly; if cleaned in the morning in the garage, by late afternoon it will be dry. If you notice that the lower edges of the carpet are slow to dry, use an air hose or a blow dryer.
Sunday
Great Website for Throw Rugs
Visit this website for beatiful throw rugs Here
Throw rugs can be the focal point of a room, create cozy conversation areas, provide a splash of color or be a unifying element that ties colors together. Plus, they can quickly and easily give rooms character!
Browse our formal indoor rugs to add a look of richness and texture to any setting. Made of 100% polypropylene, our indoor/outdoor rugs resist mold and mildew and clean easily. Combining beauty and functionality in one piece, you can use these versatile throw rugs to make a statement in any room of your home!
Door mats are the first impression a visitor gets when entering your home. Browse our collection of heavy-duty coir door mats to find an attractive, long-lasting mat that fits your needs.
Don't miss our new Home Accessories section where you will find beautiful and unique accessories to enhance your home. From throw pillows to decorative shelves, you are sure to find that extra something to brighten up any room!
Unsure of what size or type throw rug you need? Visit our Choosing a Throw Rug information page for great tips!
Throw rugs can be the focal point of a room, create cozy conversation areas, provide a splash of color or be a unifying element that ties colors together. Plus, they can quickly and easily give rooms character!
Browse our formal indoor rugs to add a look of richness and texture to any setting. Made of 100% polypropylene, our indoor/outdoor rugs resist mold and mildew and clean easily. Combining beauty and functionality in one piece, you can use these versatile throw rugs to make a statement in any room of your home!
Door mats are the first impression a visitor gets when entering your home. Browse our collection of heavy-duty coir door mats to find an attractive, long-lasting mat that fits your needs.
Don't miss our new Home Accessories section where you will find beautiful and unique accessories to enhance your home. From throw pillows to decorative shelves, you are sure to find that extra something to brighten up any room!
Unsure of what size or type throw rug you need? Visit our Choosing a Throw Rug information page for great tips!
Wednesday
Remove Bleach Spots from Carpet
We thought this was a great little tip on how to remove bleach spots from your carpet!
Spills happen during the daily laundry dash, especially when kids get into the washing machine action. And bleach, that must-have for truly white whites, makes for a fierce stain. You can, however, banish such blights from your carpet if you act quickly.
1. Wear rubber or latex gloves. Blot the excess bleach with a white absorbent cloth or paper towel.
2. Blot-rinse with water.
3. Gently blot detergent solution of 1/4 tsp. mild dishwashing liquid and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) warm water onto the stain, using a clean cloth or paper towel. Work from the stain's outside edge to the center.
4. Let the detergent sit for at least 5 minutes.
5. Repeat blotting with a clean white cloth until no more of the bleach transfers to the cloth and the bleach smell is nearly gone.
6. Rinse thoroughly with cold water.
Click Here to View this Article on Ehow.com
Spills happen during the daily laundry dash, especially when kids get into the washing machine action. And bleach, that must-have for truly white whites, makes for a fierce stain. You can, however, banish such blights from your carpet if you act quickly.
1. Wear rubber or latex gloves. Blot the excess bleach with a white absorbent cloth or paper towel.
2. Blot-rinse with water.
3. Gently blot detergent solution of 1/4 tsp. mild dishwashing liquid and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) warm water onto the stain, using a clean cloth or paper towel. Work from the stain's outside edge to the center.
4. Let the detergent sit for at least 5 minutes.
5. Repeat blotting with a clean white cloth until no more of the bleach transfers to the cloth and the bleach smell is nearly gone.
6. Rinse thoroughly with cold water.
Click Here to View this Article on Ehow.com
Which Type of Flooring Should I Choose Part 2
Continued from article "Which Type of Flooring Should I Choose Part 1"
Where is the room located?
You Can Read the Entire Article Here
Where is the room located?
Before you make your purchase, do a little research. Each type of flooring requires the proper substrate to work, therefore some floors are not recommended for all areas of the home.
Is the existing floor above grade (suspended), on grade or below grade? (see diagram)
- Basements are especially susceptible to ground moisture. Both grade level and below grade level floors have potential moisture concerns that need to be addressed.
- Make sure that you buy a flooring material suited to the grade level where the floor is to be installed. A flooring sales specialist can tell you if the floor you like will work.
You Can Read the Entire Article Here
Thursday
Removing Scuff Marks from Walls
"Do you have the scuff marks on your wall?? Tired of frequently painting walls to remove them? Try the Wall Buddy to protect your walls from scuff marks.
To Remove Scuff Marks From Walls
1. Try removing the scuff from the wall as soon as it happens, using a large pencil eraser first. While it may take several tries, see if the scuff mark relents at all
2. If the scuff mark doesn't start to disappear, use a soft-heeled shoe like a flat orthopedic shoe, on the wall in the reverse way the scuff was made. Try using a test piece of the scuff first before spreading it across the entire abrasion of the wall. Sometimes, the rubber can act as an eraser or other times it can make it worse. So use with caution.
3. Using a wet washcloth or sponge, scrub the wall for about 30 seconds to see if the scuff begins to disappear. Usually, if a wall is easy to scuff, it will be easily cleaned with water. Another hint this tip will work is if the wall paint feels gritty but does not have a gritty composition.
4.Use a small amount of non-abrasive soap on the wall, with your wet sponge. Sometimes, a little soap on flat paint or semi-gloss will remove the scuff mark without removing the paint.
5. If you have a textured wall or ceiling, gently use a wet Brillo pad instead of a washcloth for wall-washing.
If none of these tips works, chances are have a deeper scratch instead of a wall scuff. This can best be fixed by painting or calling a maintenance professional.
If you have another color under your paint, be very careful while scrubbing as it may reveal itself. Also be aware if paint comes off on your sponge, washcloth, or Brillo pad as this may make paint lighter in that particular area from now on."
To prevent black marks from hoses of the vacuum and other cords pulled around in your home, use the Wall Buddy
Information provided by Ehow.com
To Remove Scuff Marks From Walls
1. Try removing the scuff from the wall as soon as it happens, using a large pencil eraser first. While it may take several tries, see if the scuff mark relents at all
2. If the scuff mark doesn't start to disappear, use a soft-heeled shoe like a flat orthopedic shoe, on the wall in the reverse way the scuff was made. Try using a test piece of the scuff first before spreading it across the entire abrasion of the wall. Sometimes, the rubber can act as an eraser or other times it can make it worse. So use with caution.
3. Using a wet washcloth or sponge, scrub the wall for about 30 seconds to see if the scuff begins to disappear. Usually, if a wall is easy to scuff, it will be easily cleaned with water. Another hint this tip will work is if the wall paint feels gritty but does not have a gritty composition.
4.Use a small amount of non-abrasive soap on the wall, with your wet sponge. Sometimes, a little soap on flat paint or semi-gloss will remove the scuff mark without removing the paint.
5. If you have a textured wall or ceiling, gently use a wet Brillo pad instead of a washcloth for wall-washing.
If none of these tips works, chances are have a deeper scratch instead of a wall scuff. This can best be fixed by painting or calling a maintenance professional.
If you have another color under your paint, be very careful while scrubbing as it may reveal itself. Also be aware if paint comes off on your sponge, washcloth, or Brillo pad as this may make paint lighter in that particular area from now on."
To prevent black marks from hoses of the vacuum and other cords pulled around in your home, use the Wall Buddy
Information provided by Ehow.com
Sunday
Cleaning Buddys now available for purchase
The Cleaning Buddys website offers carpet cleaning tools used by professional carpet cleaners to consumers for a great price! These tools make house cleaning a little easier and definitely more fun.
Click to Purchase Lift Buddy
Click to Purchase Wall Buddy
Click to Purchase Hose Boss
Click to Purchase Caution Sign
Click to Purchase Lift Buddy
Click to Purchase Wall Buddy
Click to Purchase Hose Boss
Click to Purchase Caution Sign
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