This is a great little video that we wanted to share with you about some of the carpet cleaning trade secrets!
Showing posts with label carpet cleaning methods. Show all posts
Showing posts with label carpet cleaning methods. Show all posts
Friday
How To Rent a Carpet Cleaning Machine
We've written about how to use the Carpet cleaners that you rent from the Supermarket. However, we decided to include this article about how to rent a carpet cleaning machine. It is a great outline to follow so you don't get home with your rented carpet cleaner and realize you forgot to pick something up!
However stain-resistant your carpet is, and how frequently you vacuum it, you would still need it to give it a deep cleaning at least once a year. Instead of hiring professional carpet cleaning services
to do it for you, you can actually rent a carpet cleaning
machine and do it yourself without costing you as much. Here are the five easy steps on your way to renting a carpet cleaning machine:
1. Find store. The first step is to find a grocery store or check with a local home depot if they rent carpet cleaners. Wherever you live, chances are there would be several close locations that provide carpet cleaning machine rentals. You can check the machine out for half a day, an entire day or for as long as you want and just pay the amount of time you have rented it out.
2. Choose carpet cleaner. In picking a carpet cleaner machine for rental, there are several thing you could try to inspect to get the best one. Make sure that you get clean equipment by checking the bristles, water tank and its attachments. Double check if it has clean upholstery also. A lot of people already might have used the machine to clean all sorts of things. You may also want to consider renting either a Bissell machine or a Hoover machine that are both known for their high efficiency.
3. Purchase supplies. Renting cleaning equipment more often than not does not include other cleaning materials and supplies. You would need to purchase these cleaning solutions and other supplies yourself. To ensure deep cleaning, you can buy a urine eliminator to remove human and animal urine stains on your carpet. For high traffic areas, you can also purchase a pre-treatment. Most importantly, you should ask the rental agent or look for the equipment machine instruction manual to give you an idea of the best cleaning solution that works with the machine.
4. Ask for instructions. Ask the carpet cleaner rental company for instructions on how to operate the machine. The establishment can either explain to you the information you need or you can bring the manual home and read it there. Not all carpet cleaning equipment works the same. That is why it would be wise to ask the rental agent for operational instructions, or better yet, request for a demonstration.
5. Pay the rental. Rental agreements and rates vary depending on the rental store you go to. Some may prefer up front payments while others would charge you when you return the carper cleaner. For up front payments, you would have to give the rental company a specific time frame you would have their equipment checked out. Otherwise, if you exceed the time frame you initially signed up for, you would have to pay extra for those excess hours. It would be better if you also consider giving yourself time to purchase the necessary supplies, time to figure out how the machine works, plus travel time going to and from the store. Sometimes, it takes more time than you think trying to work out what shampoo machine is.
These are the five easy steps to follow on how to rent a carpet cleaning machine.
You can find this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-rent-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
However stain-resistant your carpet is, and how frequently you vacuum it, you would still need it to give it a deep cleaning at least once a year. Instead of hiring professional carpet cleaning services
to do it for you, you can actually rent a carpet cleaning
machine and do it yourself without costing you as much. Here are the five easy steps on your way to renting a carpet cleaning machine:
1. Find store. The first step is to find a grocery store or check with a local home depot if they rent carpet cleaners. Wherever you live, chances are there would be several close locations that provide carpet cleaning machine rentals. You can check the machine out for half a day, an entire day or for as long as you want and just pay the amount of time you have rented it out.
2. Choose carpet cleaner. In picking a carpet cleaner machine for rental, there are several thing you could try to inspect to get the best one. Make sure that you get clean equipment by checking the bristles, water tank and its attachments. Double check if it has clean upholstery also. A lot of people already might have used the machine to clean all sorts of things. You may also want to consider renting either a Bissell machine or a Hoover machine that are both known for their high efficiency.
3. Purchase supplies. Renting cleaning equipment more often than not does not include other cleaning materials and supplies. You would need to purchase these cleaning solutions and other supplies yourself. To ensure deep cleaning, you can buy a urine eliminator to remove human and animal urine stains on your carpet. For high traffic areas, you can also purchase a pre-treatment. Most importantly, you should ask the rental agent or look for the equipment machine instruction manual to give you an idea of the best cleaning solution that works with the machine.
4. Ask for instructions. Ask the carpet cleaner rental company for instructions on how to operate the machine. The establishment can either explain to you the information you need or you can bring the manual home and read it there. Not all carpet cleaning equipment works the same. That is why it would be wise to ask the rental agent for operational instructions, or better yet, request for a demonstration.
5. Pay the rental. Rental agreements and rates vary depending on the rental store you go to. Some may prefer up front payments while others would charge you when you return the carper cleaner. For up front payments, you would have to give the rental company a specific time frame you would have their equipment checked out. Otherwise, if you exceed the time frame you initially signed up for, you would have to pay extra for those excess hours. It would be better if you also consider giving yourself time to purchase the necessary supplies, time to figure out how the machine works, plus travel time going to and from the store. Sometimes, it takes more time than you think trying to work out what shampoo machine is.
These are the five easy steps to follow on how to rent a carpet cleaning machine.
You can find this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-rent-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
Thursday
Carpet Cleaning with the Steam Cleaning RugDoctor
If you don't have a Carpet Cleaner you can always rent one from your local supermarket. Below is and article about how to Steam Clean your carpets with the Rug Doctors.
We found this great article at: http://prohowtos.ipower.com/content/carpet-cleaning-steam-cleaning-rugdoctor
If you've got pets or kids and your beautiful white or beige carpets have seen better days maybe it's time to rent a RugDoctor from your local supermarket!
These things are great, pick yourself up one of their bottles of carpet shampoo - a big bottle if you've got a lot of cleaning to do or you haven't cleaned in years. The machines rent at most supermarkets for under $40 in most cases. You can sometimes rent them in a 4 hour time block - but this is only for those of you who threw a party while your parents were gone and you've only got a few hours until they come home! Maybe if you only have one room with a carpet then this 4 hour period could be for you. But I still suggest renting it for over night.
Follow the directions completely before using. Make sure not to use any other soap then the soap that they provide. The reason for this is dish soap and other soaps will foam up and make a huge mess of everything, including the machine. Just fork out the extra money for the proper cleaner - it's worth it.
When the RugDoctor's water tank is filled with the cleaning solution and water, flip it on. Don't move to slow or to fast. Pretend your walking with a 2 year old for their first steps. Keep it moving and never stop in one spot with the machine on. The reason is that the jet that sprays water in the front. The agitator is in the middle and the vacuum is in the back. If you continue to spray water/steam without moving it will soak into your floors and could damage your sub floor. Start the spray when you start moving and finish spraying but continue to vacuum up the left over water.
You'll want to cover high traffic areas first. You'll more then likely need to go over these areas a few times. Every time you go over the carpet the steam will let more dirt free from the fibers - you can continue to clean until your dirt bucket is full or you're out of soap. If you clean on a regular basis you shouldn't need to pass more then 3 times on a high traffic carpet. If you don't clean regularly, you'll use up a bottle of the cleaner on just your hallway! I did this for a friend - they had not cleaned their carpets in over 8 years and the carpet stairs we're filthy and black water continued to come up after a dozen passes.
The unit comes with a hand wand - great for cleaning corners and edges of the carpets and even stair treads. Because you're not lugging around a big machine up the stairs I like to spray the step first from a 6 inch distance. Let it soak in for 15 seconds. Scrub it without the vacuum option on. Then finally vacuum it all up. If you're still seeing lots of dirt on the steps continue doing this until they are clean. Stairs will be the dirtiest area of your house.
Beyond cleaning your carpets this also works pretty well on ceramic tiles and linoleum - stay away from hardwood floors! For tiles simply do the same as you would with a carpet. I wouldn't rent one of these things just for your tile floor - it's just if you already have it and you are in the mood for cleaning.
Also, if you've got allergies to dust or pollen, make this a part of your spring cleaning every year - you'll notice a huge change in your symptoms with a dust free home. This is a must for carpet owners - think of your carpets as clothing on your floor - you walk on it, you sit on it and play on it. You've got to clean it once and a while too!
If you're concerned about the chemicals in the carpet cleaner - RugDoctor now offers a green line of cleaning products for your carpets. The carpet cleaner is an OXY product - safe for fumes and a powerful cleaner too. This product works just as well, if not better then the non green version! Try it out!
We found this great article at: http://prohowtos.ipower.com/content/carpet-cleaning-steam-cleaning-rugdoctor
If you've got pets or kids and your beautiful white or beige carpets have seen better days maybe it's time to rent a RugDoctor from your local supermarket!
These things are great, pick yourself up one of their bottles of carpet shampoo - a big bottle if you've got a lot of cleaning to do or you haven't cleaned in years. The machines rent at most supermarkets for under $40 in most cases. You can sometimes rent them in a 4 hour time block - but this is only for those of you who threw a party while your parents were gone and you've only got a few hours until they come home! Maybe if you only have one room with a carpet then this 4 hour period could be for you. But I still suggest renting it for over night.
Follow the directions completely before using. Make sure not to use any other soap then the soap that they provide. The reason for this is dish soap and other soaps will foam up and make a huge mess of everything, including the machine. Just fork out the extra money for the proper cleaner - it's worth it.
When the RugDoctor's water tank is filled with the cleaning solution and water, flip it on. Don't move to slow or to fast. Pretend your walking with a 2 year old for their first steps. Keep it moving and never stop in one spot with the machine on. The reason is that the jet that sprays water in the front. The agitator is in the middle and the vacuum is in the back. If you continue to spray water/steam without moving it will soak into your floors and could damage your sub floor. Start the spray when you start moving and finish spraying but continue to vacuum up the left over water.
You'll want to cover high traffic areas first. You'll more then likely need to go over these areas a few times. Every time you go over the carpet the steam will let more dirt free from the fibers - you can continue to clean until your dirt bucket is full or you're out of soap. If you clean on a regular basis you shouldn't need to pass more then 3 times on a high traffic carpet. If you don't clean regularly, you'll use up a bottle of the cleaner on just your hallway! I did this for a friend - they had not cleaned their carpets in over 8 years and the carpet stairs we're filthy and black water continued to come up after a dozen passes.
The unit comes with a hand wand - great for cleaning corners and edges of the carpets and even stair treads. Because you're not lugging around a big machine up the stairs I like to spray the step first from a 6 inch distance. Let it soak in for 15 seconds. Scrub it without the vacuum option on. Then finally vacuum it all up. If you're still seeing lots of dirt on the steps continue doing this until they are clean. Stairs will be the dirtiest area of your house.
Beyond cleaning your carpets this also works pretty well on ceramic tiles and linoleum - stay away from hardwood floors! For tiles simply do the same as you would with a carpet. I wouldn't rent one of these things just for your tile floor - it's just if you already have it and you are in the mood for cleaning.
Also, if you've got allergies to dust or pollen, make this a part of your spring cleaning every year - you'll notice a huge change in your symptoms with a dust free home. This is a must for carpet owners - think of your carpets as clothing on your floor - you walk on it, you sit on it and play on it. You've got to clean it once and a while too!
If you're concerned about the chemicals in the carpet cleaner - RugDoctor now offers a green line of cleaning products for your carpets. The carpet cleaner is an OXY product - safe for fumes and a powerful cleaner too. This product works just as well, if not better then the non green version! Try it out!
Friday
Car Carpet Cleaning
To view article Click Here
There is no interior surface in an automobile that is forced to stand up to such intense and constant abuse as the carpet. People who are fussy about the carpet at home will enter and exit an automobile without a thought for what their feet are tracking in, and then grind mystery grit and goo into the car’s carpet.
There are two different cleaning methods you will need to consider. Neither of which is daunting to a detailer, but the second, and most thorough, may seem downright overwhelming if you’ve never done it before (and you probably haven’t).
Shampooing the Car’s Carpet
Make certain you use a heavy-duty carpet shampoo. The carpet in your car is rugged stuff. And all the grime, mud, sand, road salt, and oil, the sticky gross things that your shoes deliver straight to its surface, accumulate in the fibers and settle down to the rubber matting.
That carpet is tough, but the unseemly substances your shoes have ground into it are tough to remove, so you’ll need a product with cleaning chemicals as tough as the carpet is designed to withstand. There are carpet cleaners and shampoos designed to do the job in your car. Try these products rather than ones by the same companies but designed for the home.
Going Beyond Shampoo Clean
There is an even more effective cleaning technique for automobile carpet. Take the carpet completely out of the car and clean it. No, not just the floor mats, which you should remove and clean separately whenever you shampoo the carpet.
Remove the entire carpet. The job is either easier than you might think or every bit the hassle you can envision. To get the carpet out, you’ll have to unbolt the seats and remove them. There are four bolts beneath each of the front seats. Yes, even power seats can be removed. Beneath each power seat you’ll find a plug.
Unplug it. And remove the seat belts. Once you get the carpet out of the car, hang it over a fence, or better still, a small swing set, the kind with a frame shaped like the letter A.
Follow the directions on the cleaning product you choose, and then take a water hose with a nozzle you can adjust to a firm spray, and hose it down. This may seem harsh or damaging, but remember, automobile carpet is tough, tough stuff. It has to be.
Hanging the carpet over an A-framed swing set helps promote drying. The carpet will dry pretty quickly; if cleaned in the morning in the garage, by late afternoon it will be dry. If you notice that the lower edges of the carpet are slow to dry, use an air hose or a blow dryer.
There is no interior surface in an automobile that is forced to stand up to such intense and constant abuse as the carpet. People who are fussy about the carpet at home will enter and exit an automobile without a thought for what their feet are tracking in, and then grind mystery grit and goo into the car’s carpet.
There are two different cleaning methods you will need to consider. Neither of which is daunting to a detailer, but the second, and most thorough, may seem downright overwhelming if you’ve never done it before (and you probably haven’t).
Shampooing the Car’s Carpet
Make certain you use a heavy-duty carpet shampoo. The carpet in your car is rugged stuff. And all the grime, mud, sand, road salt, and oil, the sticky gross things that your shoes deliver straight to its surface, accumulate in the fibers and settle down to the rubber matting.
That carpet is tough, but the unseemly substances your shoes have ground into it are tough to remove, so you’ll need a product with cleaning chemicals as tough as the carpet is designed to withstand. There are carpet cleaners and shampoos designed to do the job in your car. Try these products rather than ones by the same companies but designed for the home.
Going Beyond Shampoo Clean
There is an even more effective cleaning technique for automobile carpet. Take the carpet completely out of the car and clean it. No, not just the floor mats, which you should remove and clean separately whenever you shampoo the carpet.
Remove the entire carpet. The job is either easier than you might think or every bit the hassle you can envision. To get the carpet out, you’ll have to unbolt the seats and remove them. There are four bolts beneath each of the front seats. Yes, even power seats can be removed. Beneath each power seat you’ll find a plug.
Unplug it. And remove the seat belts. Once you get the carpet out of the car, hang it over a fence, or better still, a small swing set, the kind with a frame shaped like the letter A.
Follow the directions on the cleaning product you choose, and then take a water hose with a nozzle you can adjust to a firm spray, and hose it down. This may seem harsh or damaging, but remember, automobile carpet is tough, tough stuff. It has to be.
Hanging the carpet over an A-framed swing set helps promote drying. The carpet will dry pretty quickly; if cleaned in the morning in the garage, by late afternoon it will be dry. If you notice that the lower edges of the carpet are slow to dry, use an air hose or a blow dryer.
Saturday
How To Use a Carpet Cleaning Machine
If you have carpeted floors, it is advisable to clean the carpet every so often so that the dust and dirt do not accumulate under the carpet fibers. You can clean the carpet by using a cleaning machine that is especially designed to clean carpets
. You can use an ordinary carpet cleaner or a carpet steam cleaner
. Cleaning your carpet will not only get rid of dust, it will make your carpet appear good as new and it will last longer.
Here are the steps for using a carpet cleaning machine to clean your carpet:
1. Materials. First, gather all the clean equipment that you need for cleaning the carpet. The things that you will need are a cleaning solution, a Hoover machine or a vacuum cleaner, a carpet cleaner, and a carpet grooming brush. Using the vacuum is optional but it will make the carpet easier to clean.
2. Preparation. Before starting the cleaning process, you have to remove all the furniture and objects that are in the carpeted room that you are going to clean. If your entire house is carpeted, it is not advisable to clean all the rooms at the same time. You can clean the rooms one by one so that you can place the furniture in different rooms when cleaning. Use the vacuum on the carpet to remove the dust and dirt particles that are loose on the carpet.
3. Soaping. When you have finished vacuuming the carpet, get the cleaning solution and dilute it with water according to the instructions. Put this mixture inside the tank of the carpet cleaning machine. Turn on the switch of the cleaner and run it over the carpeted area. Be careful not to overstay on one area as this will make the carpet too wet with the solution. Allow the solution to settle on the carpet for at least ten minutes.
4. Cleaning. After ten minutes, you can release the lever for water to clean the carpet. When the lever is released, the carpet cleaner then removes the dirt from your carpet. Pull the cleaning machine towards you as you clean the carpet. Do this until you have finished cleaning the entire carpeted area. You can put fans inside the room to help the carpet dry more quickly.
5. Finishing. Do another run of vacuuming on the carpet when it is completely dry. This will remove excess dirt that has not been removed by the carpet cleaner. After you have finished, use the carpet grooming brush to fix the fibers of the carpet. Brush the fibers in one direction to get the best results.
These are the simple steps for using a carpet cleaning machine to clean your carpet. If you are looking for a vacuum or a cleaning machine to clean upholstery and carpets, you can look at Bissell. Bissell is a company that manufactures and sells cleaning solutions and machines that you can use for cleaning your house and furniture.
You can view this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-use-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
. You can use an ordinary carpet cleaner or a carpet steam cleaner
. Cleaning your carpet will not only get rid of dust, it will make your carpet appear good as new and it will last longer.
Here are the steps for using a carpet cleaning machine to clean your carpet:
1. Materials. First, gather all the clean equipment that you need for cleaning the carpet. The things that you will need are a cleaning solution, a Hoover machine or a vacuum cleaner, a carpet cleaner, and a carpet grooming brush. Using the vacuum is optional but it will make the carpet easier to clean.
2. Preparation. Before starting the cleaning process, you have to remove all the furniture and objects that are in the carpeted room that you are going to clean. If your entire house is carpeted, it is not advisable to clean all the rooms at the same time. You can clean the rooms one by one so that you can place the furniture in different rooms when cleaning. Use the vacuum on the carpet to remove the dust and dirt particles that are loose on the carpet.
3. Soaping. When you have finished vacuuming the carpet, get the cleaning solution and dilute it with water according to the instructions. Put this mixture inside the tank of the carpet cleaning machine. Turn on the switch of the cleaner and run it over the carpeted area. Be careful not to overstay on one area as this will make the carpet too wet with the solution. Allow the solution to settle on the carpet for at least ten minutes.
4. Cleaning. After ten minutes, you can release the lever for water to clean the carpet. When the lever is released, the carpet cleaner then removes the dirt from your carpet. Pull the cleaning machine towards you as you clean the carpet. Do this until you have finished cleaning the entire carpeted area. You can put fans inside the room to help the carpet dry more quickly.
5. Finishing. Do another run of vacuuming on the carpet when it is completely dry. This will remove excess dirt that has not been removed by the carpet cleaner. After you have finished, use the carpet grooming brush to fix the fibers of the carpet. Brush the fibers in one direction to get the best results.
These are the simple steps for using a carpet cleaning machine to clean your carpet. If you are looking for a vacuum or a cleaning machine to clean upholstery and carpets, you can look at Bissell. Bissell is a company that manufactures and sells cleaning solutions and machines that you can use for cleaning your house and furniture.
You can view this article at: http://www.howtodothings.com/home-garden/how-to-use-a-carpet-cleaning-machine
Choosing Entrance Rugs to
To view article website Click Here
Entry rugs are the first impression your guests receive as they enter your home. The indoor rug or mat in your foyer is your guest's first introduction into your home or space. You want your entry rug to make a statement about who you are and the wonderful environment your guests are about to enjoy.
A quality indoor throw rug can add warmth, invitation and acoustic improvement to an entrance with a hard floor, such as marble, stone or hardwood. Stepping onto an indoor rug lets your guests know they have arrived!
Choosing a Rug for Your Entrance
There are several factors you should consider when choosing an indoor throw rug for your entrance. It should have a low profile so that it does not interfere with the movement of your door. Most modern entryway doors open to the inside. If your door presents a low profile against your flooring, a high pile indoor rug would not only interfere with the action of you door, it would receive wear from the abrasion. Your indoor throw rug should accommodate your door's action with a little room to spare.
At ThrowRugs.net, we strongly encourage you to use a carpet pad under your indoor rug. This will give your guests a solid foot-hold for entering your home, business or garden room. The rug should not shift, bunch or change shape as pressure and friction are applied to it. Our entry rugs are durable and will keep dirt tracking to a minimum.
Choosing an Entrance Rug for Your Porch
If you have a large porch your guests will need to cross before arriving at your entryway, you should coordinate the theme and look across these two spaces. While the outdoor rug and indoor rug do not have to match perfectly, they should carry a similar design theme. Both rugs will serve similar functions: to provide a good grip, to minimize debris entering your home and to provide warmth and invitation to your guests.
Choosing an Entrance Rug for Your Mudroom
A mudroom is every mother's dream entry for her children. It is an area to organize the hectic comings and goings of your high-energy kids. While a mudroom used to be an unattractive area of your home, modern design has put focus on this area as well, marrying practical with beautiful. Don't neglect one of the key features of the mudroom's purpose - catching mud! A functional throw rug can help mudroom cleanups go faster and add style and comfort to this high-traffic room. Your floors don't need to take the brunt of the mud. A well-placed, durable rug can do wonders. And our selection of indoor/outdoor throw rugs gives you even more options.
Entry rugs are the first impression your guests receive as they enter your home. The indoor rug or mat in your foyer is your guest's first introduction into your home or space. You want your entry rug to make a statement about who you are and the wonderful environment your guests are about to enjoy.
A quality indoor throw rug can add warmth, invitation and acoustic improvement to an entrance with a hard floor, such as marble, stone or hardwood. Stepping onto an indoor rug lets your guests know they have arrived!
Choosing a Rug for Your Entrance
There are several factors you should consider when choosing an indoor throw rug for your entrance. It should have a low profile so that it does not interfere with the movement of your door. Most modern entryway doors open to the inside. If your door presents a low profile against your flooring, a high pile indoor rug would not only interfere with the action of you door, it would receive wear from the abrasion. Your indoor throw rug should accommodate your door's action with a little room to spare.
At ThrowRugs.net, we strongly encourage you to use a carpet pad under your indoor rug. This will give your guests a solid foot-hold for entering your home, business or garden room. The rug should not shift, bunch or change shape as pressure and friction are applied to it. Our entry rugs are durable and will keep dirt tracking to a minimum.
Choosing an Entrance Rug for Your Porch
If you have a large porch your guests will need to cross before arriving at your entryway, you should coordinate the theme and look across these two spaces. While the outdoor rug and indoor rug do not have to match perfectly, they should carry a similar design theme. Both rugs will serve similar functions: to provide a good grip, to minimize debris entering your home and to provide warmth and invitation to your guests.
Choosing an Entrance Rug for Your Mudroom
A mudroom is every mother's dream entry for her children. It is an area to organize the hectic comings and goings of your high-energy kids. While a mudroom used to be an unattractive area of your home, modern design has put focus on this area as well, marrying practical with beautiful. Don't neglect one of the key features of the mudroom's purpose - catching mud! A functional throw rug can help mudroom cleanups go faster and add style and comfort to this high-traffic room. Your floors don't need to take the brunt of the mud. A well-placed, durable rug can do wonders. And our selection of indoor/outdoor throw rugs gives you even more options.
Friday
Using a Blacklight (UV Light) to Detect Cat Urine Stains
We thought this was a very interesting article and decided to share it with you!
If your cat has marked in your hours you are probably dealing with a horrible stench that just won't go away. Cat urine odor is extremely pervasive, and can last for a long, long, time. Not only that, but when the odor starts to wear off your kitty may just decide to remark that spot to freshen up the smell.
Cat urine stains are usually easy enough to find if they are still wet. You can either sniff around for them or spot the wet spot to clean. If the cat urine has dried, though, it can be difficult if not impossible to locate exactly where the stain is to clean it. You can smell it and you may know the general area where the cat urine is, but pinpointing the exact location of the stain can be elusive. That means even if you clean a large area of your rug or furniture with cat urine odor removers you could still miss the stain entirely and be left with the lingering odor of cat urine.
We made the mistake of not getting our cat spayed when she was a tiny kitten, and as soon as she hit her first heat cycle she started marking things in our house. Her favorite place to mark was directly on our bed, but she had no qualms about marking elsewhere. We found stains on the carpet, furniture, books in our bookcase, any clothing that we had left on the floor. You name it our cat had probably peed on it.
We spent hours and hours trying to clean stains and eliminate odor but it just never seemed to go away. In fact, we finally wound up throwing away our expensive leather couch because we couldn't get the cat urine odor out of it.
Finally, though, we got a great tip that made cleaning up cat urine in our house and removing the odor much, much easier. You can actually use a blacklight to locate cat urine stains. Once you know precisely where the urine is it makes it much easier to clean the exact right spot and eliminate the cat urine odor.
All you need is a small, handheld blacklight. You can find them at some department stores or can order them online. They are usually around $10.00, which is a small investment for the peace of mind that you get knowing that you have gotten rid of the cat urine in your home. Next, you'll want to get an enzymatic cleaner specifically designed for cleaning cat urine. Other types of cleaners will remove the color and the odor, but they will leave behind crystals that your cat can still smell that may make her want to mark that spot again. Not only that, but if the crystals get wet the smell will come back. An enzymatic cleaner will dissolve the crystals along with removing the odor and color of the stain.
Once you have gathered your blacklight and cleaning supplies together, just wait until it gets dark, turn out the lights and start moving slowly through your home with the blacklight. Any spots that have been contaminated with cat urine will glow with a green color, making them easy to pinpoint and clean. You can either clean them as you go, or you can mark them to come back and clean once the lights are back on. The more thorough you are with your blacklight sweep of your house the more likely you will be to find all of the problem areas, so take your time when searching. Also be sure to remember that your cat is small and can worm their way into any number of places, so check every little nook and cranny where you think your cat may have been.
To view this article you can visit: http://www.life123.com/home-garden/housekeeping/carpet-cleaning/using-a-blacklight-uv-light-to-detect-cat-urine-st.shtml
If your cat has marked in your hours you are probably dealing with a horrible stench that just won't go away. Cat urine odor is extremely pervasive, and can last for a long, long, time. Not only that, but when the odor starts to wear off your kitty may just decide to remark that spot to freshen up the smell.
Cat urine stains are usually easy enough to find if they are still wet. You can either sniff around for them or spot the wet spot to clean. If the cat urine has dried, though, it can be difficult if not impossible to locate exactly where the stain is to clean it. You can smell it and you may know the general area where the cat urine is, but pinpointing the exact location of the stain can be elusive. That means even if you clean a large area of your rug or furniture with cat urine odor removers you could still miss the stain entirely and be left with the lingering odor of cat urine.
We made the mistake of not getting our cat spayed when she was a tiny kitten, and as soon as she hit her first heat cycle she started marking things in our house. Her favorite place to mark was directly on our bed, but she had no qualms about marking elsewhere. We found stains on the carpet, furniture, books in our bookcase, any clothing that we had left on the floor. You name it our cat had probably peed on it.
We spent hours and hours trying to clean stains and eliminate odor but it just never seemed to go away. In fact, we finally wound up throwing away our expensive leather couch because we couldn't get the cat urine odor out of it.
Finally, though, we got a great tip that made cleaning up cat urine in our house and removing the odor much, much easier. You can actually use a blacklight to locate cat urine stains. Once you know precisely where the urine is it makes it much easier to clean the exact right spot and eliminate the cat urine odor.
All you need is a small, handheld blacklight. You can find them at some department stores or can order them online. They are usually around $10.00, which is a small investment for the peace of mind that you get knowing that you have gotten rid of the cat urine in your home. Next, you'll want to get an enzymatic cleaner specifically designed for cleaning cat urine. Other types of cleaners will remove the color and the odor, but they will leave behind crystals that your cat can still smell that may make her want to mark that spot again. Not only that, but if the crystals get wet the smell will come back. An enzymatic cleaner will dissolve the crystals along with removing the odor and color of the stain.
Once you have gathered your blacklight and cleaning supplies together, just wait until it gets dark, turn out the lights and start moving slowly through your home with the blacklight. Any spots that have been contaminated with cat urine will glow with a green color, making them easy to pinpoint and clean. You can either clean them as you go, or you can mark them to come back and clean once the lights are back on. The more thorough you are with your blacklight sweep of your house the more likely you will be to find all of the problem areas, so take your time when searching. Also be sure to remember that your cat is small and can worm their way into any number of places, so check every little nook and cranny where you think your cat may have been.
To view this article you can visit: http://www.life123.com/home-garden/housekeeping/carpet-cleaning/using-a-blacklight-uv-light-to-detect-cat-urine-st.shtml
Wednesday
Homemade Carpet Cleaners cont...
No need to buy commercial cleaning powder, when you have the strength of baking soda sitting in your cupboard already. This powder will do an amazing job at absorbing odors and will leave nothing weird behind.
This is meant for occasional use (every two months or so), as many vacuum cleaners are not strong enough to get up all the powder. Note too that fine powders can be hard on vacuums as well.
Carpet Cleaning Powder
* 1 part baking soda
* 1 part corn starch
* Fragrant dried leaves or spices (try bay leaves, lavender, cinnamon or cloves)
As always, it's best to do a pre vacuum on your carpet before using any product.
Mix the ingredients together in a bowl, then sprinkle on carpet.
You can use your hand to do the sprinkling or put the powder in a recycled container with holes in the lid (parmesan cheese maybe).
Allow the powder to sit for an hour or even over night. Don't walk on the powder as it's doing its work, as this will grind it down into the weave of your carpet.
Vacuum up the powder thoroughly.
You can skip ahead and view all of the recipes at http://www.house-cleaning-howtos.com/homemade-carpet-cleaner.html
This is meant for occasional use (every two months or so), as many vacuum cleaners are not strong enough to get up all the powder. Note too that fine powders can be hard on vacuums as well.
Carpet Cleaning Powder
* 1 part baking soda
* 1 part corn starch
* Fragrant dried leaves or spices (try bay leaves, lavender, cinnamon or cloves)
As always, it's best to do a pre vacuum on your carpet before using any product.
Mix the ingredients together in a bowl, then sprinkle on carpet.
You can use your hand to do the sprinkling or put the powder in a recycled container with holes in the lid (parmesan cheese maybe).
Allow the powder to sit for an hour or even over night. Don't walk on the powder as it's doing its work, as this will grind it down into the weave of your carpet.
Vacuum up the powder thoroughly.
You can skip ahead and view all of the recipes at http://www.house-cleaning-howtos.com/homemade-carpet-cleaner.html
Monday
Homemade Carpet Cleaners
We found a great website that had some homemade carpet cleaning recipes that we will be featuring over the next couple of days.
The first is Homemade Carpet Cleaner:
* 1 quart water
* 1 tablespoon white vinegar
* 1 tablespoon liquid dish soap
Mix the ingredients together in a spray bottle, or use a bucket for a larger batch to fill the carpet cleaning machine.
Vacuum carpets before using this cleaner. Spray solution on any dirty spots and work it in with a soft brush. Let sit for 10 minutes. Wipe the area with a moistened cleaning cloth, then dry with a dry cleaning cloth. Allow to fully dry before walking on the area.
You can skip ahead and view all of the recipes at http://www.house-cleaning-howtos.com/homemade-carpet-cleaner.html
The first is Homemade Carpet Cleaner:
* 1 quart water
* 1 tablespoon white vinegar
* 1 tablespoon liquid dish soap
Mix the ingredients together in a spray bottle, or use a bucket for a larger batch to fill the carpet cleaning machine.
Vacuum carpets before using this cleaner. Spray solution on any dirty spots and work it in with a soft brush. Let sit for 10 minutes. Wipe the area with a moistened cleaning cloth, then dry with a dry cleaning cloth. Allow to fully dry before walking on the area.
You can skip ahead and view all of the recipes at http://www.house-cleaning-howtos.com/homemade-carpet-cleaner.html
Vacuuming Tips to Clean Carpets
How To Vacuum: Vacuuming Your Carpet Like A Pro
I read someplace the other day about "How To Vacuum". The instructions said, "First, get your vacuum." Wow! That's probably the best advice you'll ever get! Actually, before I drag my vacuum out, there are a few other things I do first.
* Do a walk-through of your carpeted areas picking up clutter and any large pieces of debris that your vacuum cannot suck up such as leaves from shedding house plants, small toys, paper clips, anything that is obvious.
* If you have a hand carpet sweeper, give the carpet a quick "pick-me-up". You may be able to avoid having to use your heavier vacuum cleaner this time.
* Use an anti-static spray on your dust mop or dust rag and run around the baseboard where dust collects next to the carpet..
* Most vacuums will not get right up to the edge where wall meets floor, so use a good stiff broom with some elbow grease and give that area a good sweeping before you vacuum.
Vacuum Cleaning 101
Basic house cleaning rules tell you to begin on the top, at the back. That means, if you have more than a one story home, start on the top level in the room furthest from the stairwell. Since vacuuming is the job you should do last in any room, you should already have picked up clutter and put things away, removed cobwebs, dusted and polished furniture.
In areas where you use "throw" or "scatter" rugs, pick them up and shake them out-of-doors. Then fold them neatly, place on the side of the tub or on a chair until you are ready to put them back on the floor.
Draperies and furniture should be vacuumed first.
Consider the furniture that needs moved in order to do a thorough vacuuming and move it. You'll find it appropriate to move chairs and smaller tables into a central area, and then vacuum as close to the edge of the room and up to the furniture as possible. Reach under beds, couches and dressers as far as you can.
Replace the furniture and begin vacuuming in the corner that is farthest from the door and work towards the door, using gliding, even strokes, backing to the door. As you look over the freshly vacuumed floor, you should see no footprints.
"B" Is For Bathroom
Cleaning bathrooms can be tricky, as it may be partially or fully carpeted. If they are covered wall-to-wall, start behind the toilet and work your way through the room. Close yourself inside the bathroom and get behind the door, the edges of the cabinets, bathtub and shower. Again, this is a room that benefits from going around the edges with a stiff broom as hair and powders can be hard to vacuum.
Vacuum all the bathrooms first. Start behind the toilet, vacuum the floor. Do not forget behind the door, and along the edges of the cabinets and bathtubs. Make sure you get up all the hair and dust off the floor. Watch out for any standing water on the floor!
Moving Right Along ...
Make every motion count. Never use a power head on uncarpeted floors. Never use the upright to do stairs..
After all of the rooms are vacuumed, it's time do the hallway. Begin in the area furthest from the stairs and work your way backward to the top of the stair well. (Look behind yourself often!) A canister vacuum works best on stairs because you can use the wand.
If your home is only one level, you are probably ready to put your feet up and relax. That is, unless you have carpet in your kitchen that needs vacuumed. If not, you may have throw rugs that need to be shaken well and/or laundered. If they are small enough, these benefit from being tossed into the dryer with a fabric softener tissue and an old, clean pair of tennis shoes, then tumbled with low or no heat. The fabric softener freshens the fabric and the shoes work as a beater, fluffing the nap and removing lint.
Damp mop all remaining washable, hard-surfaced floors and NOW relax!
Vacuum Cleaners and Attachments
* Your vacuum is one of the most versatile, useful home appliances you'll ever own. Here are some suggestions on how to make your cleaning chores a little easier.
* When purchasing a new vacuum, make sure it has a powerful motor. Compare to the other models, and pick the one with the highest strength. The power is in direct proportion to the amount of dirt it will remove from your carpet in one or two passes.
* Compare manufacturers and read the warranty. If possible, select one that has a local authorized dealer and repair facility.
* Take a good look at the attachments. Unless you are willing to drag all the heads, wands and hoses along, and use them every time you get the vacuum out, don't be influenced by the marketing hype. Less is best.
* Overall, speaking as a professional (we are a maid service, remember?), we have found that heavier vacuums hold up better in the long run. Our vacuums really get a workout - several times a day.
To View this Article from Mrs. Clean USA Click Here
I read someplace the other day about "How To Vacuum". The instructions said, "First, get your vacuum." Wow! That's probably the best advice you'll ever get! Actually, before I drag my vacuum out, there are a few other things I do first.
* Do a walk-through of your carpeted areas picking up clutter and any large pieces of debris that your vacuum cannot suck up such as leaves from shedding house plants, small toys, paper clips, anything that is obvious.
* If you have a hand carpet sweeper, give the carpet a quick "pick-me-up". You may be able to avoid having to use your heavier vacuum cleaner this time.
* Use an anti-static spray on your dust mop or dust rag and run around the baseboard where dust collects next to the carpet..
* Most vacuums will not get right up to the edge where wall meets floor, so use a good stiff broom with some elbow grease and give that area a good sweeping before you vacuum.
Vacuum Cleaning 101
Basic house cleaning rules tell you to begin on the top, at the back. That means, if you have more than a one story home, start on the top level in the room furthest from the stairwell. Since vacuuming is the job you should do last in any room, you should already have picked up clutter and put things away, removed cobwebs, dusted and polished furniture.
In areas where you use "throw" or "scatter" rugs, pick them up and shake them out-of-doors. Then fold them neatly, place on the side of the tub or on a chair until you are ready to put them back on the floor.
Draperies and furniture should be vacuumed first.
Consider the furniture that needs moved in order to do a thorough vacuuming and move it. You'll find it appropriate to move chairs and smaller tables into a central area, and then vacuum as close to the edge of the room and up to the furniture as possible. Reach under beds, couches and dressers as far as you can.
Replace the furniture and begin vacuuming in the corner that is farthest from the door and work towards the door, using gliding, even strokes, backing to the door. As you look over the freshly vacuumed floor, you should see no footprints.
"B" Is For Bathroom
Cleaning bathrooms can be tricky, as it may be partially or fully carpeted. If they are covered wall-to-wall, start behind the toilet and work your way through the room. Close yourself inside the bathroom and get behind the door, the edges of the cabinets, bathtub and shower. Again, this is a room that benefits from going around the edges with a stiff broom as hair and powders can be hard to vacuum.
Vacuum all the bathrooms first. Start behind the toilet, vacuum the floor. Do not forget behind the door, and along the edges of the cabinets and bathtubs. Make sure you get up all the hair and dust off the floor. Watch out for any standing water on the floor!
Moving Right Along ...
Make every motion count. Never use a power head on uncarpeted floors. Never use the upright to do stairs..
After all of the rooms are vacuumed, it's time do the hallway. Begin in the area furthest from the stairs and work your way backward to the top of the stair well. (Look behind yourself often!) A canister vacuum works best on stairs because you can use the wand.
If your home is only one level, you are probably ready to put your feet up and relax. That is, unless you have carpet in your kitchen that needs vacuumed. If not, you may have throw rugs that need to be shaken well and/or laundered. If they are small enough, these benefit from being tossed into the dryer with a fabric softener tissue and an old, clean pair of tennis shoes, then tumbled with low or no heat. The fabric softener freshens the fabric and the shoes work as a beater, fluffing the nap and removing lint.
Damp mop all remaining washable, hard-surfaced floors and NOW relax!
Vacuum Cleaners and Attachments
* Your vacuum is one of the most versatile, useful home appliances you'll ever own. Here are some suggestions on how to make your cleaning chores a little easier.
* When purchasing a new vacuum, make sure it has a powerful motor. Compare to the other models, and pick the one with the highest strength. The power is in direct proportion to the amount of dirt it will remove from your carpet in one or two passes.
* Compare manufacturers and read the warranty. If possible, select one that has a local authorized dealer and repair facility.
* Take a good look at the attachments. Unless you are willing to drag all the heads, wands and hoses along, and use them every time you get the vacuum out, don't be influenced by the marketing hype. Less is best.
* Overall, speaking as a professional (we are a maid service, remember?), we have found that heavier vacuums hold up better in the long run. Our vacuums really get a workout - several times a day.
To View this Article from Mrs. Clean USA Click Here
Saturday
How Central Vacuums Clean Up
The best thing about central vacuum systems is that they don't require you to carry a heavy unit from room to room or up and down the stairs. Central vacuum systems are designed to remove all the dirt and debris from your house and send it through tubing located in the walls to a receptacle in an out-of-the-way location like a garage or basement. With central vacuums, you only carry a lightweight hose and power brush unit around the house. The power unit is permanent and out of the way.
With a central vacuum system, you place inlets around your home at convenient locations. Instead of plugging a portable vacuum into pre-determined electrical outlets and hoping the cord reaches around your home, you can move the central vacuum hose from inlet to inlet. Where you put the inlets is up to you. You can even install an automatic dustpan that lets you quickly sweep debris into a wall vent using a regular broom.
If you decide to have a central vacuum system installed in your house, there are several things that will happen.
First, you situate a central power unit in an out-of-the-way area such as the basement, garage or utility room. Then, you install wall inlet valves in various locations throughout the house. The valves are connected to the power unit through tubing. The tubing can be run through the attic, basement or cold air returns in the house.
In other words, the tubing that carries the dirt you vacuum is behind your walls. You don't have to see the dirt until you have to empty the receptacle.
Once you have chosen the location for the power unit/receptacle, you need to decide where you want your wall inlets. These inlets are where you will plug in the "power brush" or unit that you will be using to clean your home. How many inlets you want in your home is based on your own needs. For example, inlets can be based on the number of square feet. There is usually one inlet for every 600 square feet of a home. If you have more than one story in your home, you will need at least one inlet per story. If you decide on professional installation, the installer can help you determine the best inlet placement.
After installation, the system is used by plugging the lightweight hose and power brush unit into a wall inlet. The power button is located on the handle on most systems, so it is totally controlled by you. In other words, you don't have to go to the power unit and turn the system on. You simply put the hose unit in the inlet and begin vacuuming. The system then carries the dirt, dust and debris out of the room, through the in-wall tubing, to the main power unit, where it is deposited in a canister or bag. Central vacuum bags and canisters only need to be emptied an average of once every three months.
Click Here to Read this Article on Howstuffworks.com
With a central vacuum system, you place inlets around your home at convenient locations. Instead of plugging a portable vacuum into pre-determined electrical outlets and hoping the cord reaches around your home, you can move the central vacuum hose from inlet to inlet. Where you put the inlets is up to you. You can even install an automatic dustpan that lets you quickly sweep debris into a wall vent using a regular broom.
If you decide to have a central vacuum system installed in your house, there are several things that will happen.
First, you situate a central power unit in an out-of-the-way area such as the basement, garage or utility room. Then, you install wall inlet valves in various locations throughout the house. The valves are connected to the power unit through tubing. The tubing can be run through the attic, basement or cold air returns in the house.
In other words, the tubing that carries the dirt you vacuum is behind your walls. You don't have to see the dirt until you have to empty the receptacle.
Once you have chosen the location for the power unit/receptacle, you need to decide where you want your wall inlets. These inlets are where you will plug in the "power brush" or unit that you will be using to clean your home. How many inlets you want in your home is based on your own needs. For example, inlets can be based on the number of square feet. There is usually one inlet for every 600 square feet of a home. If you have more than one story in your home, you will need at least one inlet per story. If you decide on professional installation, the installer can help you determine the best inlet placement.
After installation, the system is used by plugging the lightweight hose and power brush unit into a wall inlet. The power button is located on the handle on most systems, so it is totally controlled by you. In other words, you don't have to go to the power unit and turn the system on. You simply put the hose unit in the inlet and begin vacuuming. The system then carries the dirt, dust and debris out of the room, through the in-wall tubing, to the main power unit, where it is deposited in a canister or bag. Central vacuum bags and canisters only need to be emptied an average of once every three months.
Click Here to Read this Article on Howstuffworks.com
Wednesday
Remove Bleach Spots from Carpet
We thought this was a great little tip on how to remove bleach spots from your carpet!
Spills happen during the daily laundry dash, especially when kids get into the washing machine action. And bleach, that must-have for truly white whites, makes for a fierce stain. You can, however, banish such blights from your carpet if you act quickly.
1. Wear rubber or latex gloves. Blot the excess bleach with a white absorbent cloth or paper towel.
2. Blot-rinse with water.
3. Gently blot detergent solution of 1/4 tsp. mild dishwashing liquid and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) warm water onto the stain, using a clean cloth or paper towel. Work from the stain's outside edge to the center.
4. Let the detergent sit for at least 5 minutes.
5. Repeat blotting with a clean white cloth until no more of the bleach transfers to the cloth and the bleach smell is nearly gone.
6. Rinse thoroughly with cold water.
Click Here to View this Article on Ehow.com
Spills happen during the daily laundry dash, especially when kids get into the washing machine action. And bleach, that must-have for truly white whites, makes for a fierce stain. You can, however, banish such blights from your carpet if you act quickly.
1. Wear rubber or latex gloves. Blot the excess bleach with a white absorbent cloth or paper towel.
2. Blot-rinse with water.
3. Gently blot detergent solution of 1/4 tsp. mild dishwashing liquid and 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) warm water onto the stain, using a clean cloth or paper towel. Work from the stain's outside edge to the center.
4. Let the detergent sit for at least 5 minutes.
5. Repeat blotting with a clean white cloth until no more of the bleach transfers to the cloth and the bleach smell is nearly gone.
6. Rinse thoroughly with cold water.
Click Here to View this Article on Ehow.com
Deodorizing Carpets
Carpet Odor Control Tips
Carpets are a wonderful addition to the comfort and appearance of your home but they attract dirt and odors like magnets.
You can clean up the surface appearance of the carpet with a quick superficial sweeping with a broom, or a carpet sweeper or dragging out the heavy-duty vacuum with the 30 foot cord and shoving it around on the carpets for an hour. You'll wind up with a carpet that looks cared for - maybe even looks almost new, but still does not smell to good.
Nobody wants to replace carpet that looks perfectly good, has no worn spots or holes, isn't faded. But what in the world do you do if you can't remove the odors that you smell every time you walk into the room?
If the carpeting has been overly dampened, or is in a high humidity environment, or was poorly dried after shampooing, mildew or mold is probably your problem with smell.
If this is the case, you can use a special deodorizing solution available in the grocery store or try using plain water mixed with 20% plain white vinegar. Shampoo the carpets again, dry them thoroughly. (open windows, doors, and use a fan if necessary to remove any water remaining and your carpets will smell fresh and clean when dried.
Deodorizing Smoke Odors From Carpets
First of all, if someone is smoking inside the house, encourage them to smoke outside - You cannot keep your carpet deodorized and odor control wont help if the source continues the infiltration.
* Buy a large box of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda.
* Empty it into a large shaker jar, like the kind you use for shaking out ground Parmesan cheese.
* Using a liberal hand, walk around your carpet shaking the baking soda onto the carpet.
* With a corn straw broom, brush the baking soda into the nap of the carpeting making sure it gets into the fibers.
* Leave on overnight.
* In the morning, give the carpet a deep vacuuming, going over it several times to pick up as much of the baking soda as possible.
Deodorizing Carpets Due to Cat, Dog And Puppy Urine
Oh, oh! You open the front door to your home one evening and the smell hits you square in the face.
Those animals you love, the dogs, the cats, kittens, puppies, are little poop and pee machines! Even though you've picked up the waste - when you saw it - the memory lingers on. And wet urine stains often sink right in without being discovered at all, unless they leave a stain and/or begin to stink! You may try the above simple fix with baking soda for deodorizing the carpet, but - rest assured - that is not going to do the job.
Here are serious odor control tips to help you.
* Sprinkle the carpet generously with baking soda, and brush in. Allow to set for a few hours, overnight if possible.
* Then vacuum thoroughly and get ready to give the carpet a good shampooing with a steam cleaner.
* You will not be able to vacuum out all of the baking soda and that's okay.
* The residue will mix with the water in the cleaning solution and help sweeten and remove the odor.
* Either use the cleaning solution that is recommended for your particular brand of steam carpet cleaner, or buy one that is compatible off the shelf; look for one that specifically states it has odor removing properties.
* Note that you should not use any detergent/soap when steam cleaning. The soap residue is impossible to remove and will end up attracting more dirt.
* Follow manufacturer's recommended instructions for steam cleaning your carpet and allow to dry thoroughly before vacuuming.
You'll be pleased at the freshness of your home once the job is done and you are finished deodorizing your carpet!
Click Here to Read Article on Mrs. Clean USA
Carpets are a wonderful addition to the comfort and appearance of your home but they attract dirt and odors like magnets.
You can clean up the surface appearance of the carpet with a quick superficial sweeping with a broom, or a carpet sweeper or dragging out the heavy-duty vacuum with the 30 foot cord and shoving it around on the carpets for an hour. You'll wind up with a carpet that looks cared for - maybe even looks almost new, but still does not smell to good.
Nobody wants to replace carpet that looks perfectly good, has no worn spots or holes, isn't faded. But what in the world do you do if you can't remove the odors that you smell every time you walk into the room?
If the carpeting has been overly dampened, or is in a high humidity environment, or was poorly dried after shampooing, mildew or mold is probably your problem with smell.
If this is the case, you can use a special deodorizing solution available in the grocery store or try using plain water mixed with 20% plain white vinegar. Shampoo the carpets again, dry them thoroughly. (open windows, doors, and use a fan if necessary to remove any water remaining and your carpets will smell fresh and clean when dried.
Deodorizing Smoke Odors From Carpets
First of all, if someone is smoking inside the house, encourage them to smoke outside - You cannot keep your carpet deodorized and odor control wont help if the source continues the infiltration.
* Buy a large box of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda.
* Empty it into a large shaker jar, like the kind you use for shaking out ground Parmesan cheese.
* Using a liberal hand, walk around your carpet shaking the baking soda onto the carpet.
* With a corn straw broom, brush the baking soda into the nap of the carpeting making sure it gets into the fibers.
* Leave on overnight.
* In the morning, give the carpet a deep vacuuming, going over it several times to pick up as much of the baking soda as possible.
Deodorizing Carpets Due to Cat, Dog And Puppy Urine
Oh, oh! You open the front door to your home one evening and the smell hits you square in the face.
Those animals you love, the dogs, the cats, kittens, puppies, are little poop and pee machines! Even though you've picked up the waste - when you saw it - the memory lingers on. And wet urine stains often sink right in without being discovered at all, unless they leave a stain and/or begin to stink! You may try the above simple fix with baking soda for deodorizing the carpet, but - rest assured - that is not going to do the job.
Here are serious odor control tips to help you.
* Sprinkle the carpet generously with baking soda, and brush in. Allow to set for a few hours, overnight if possible.
* Then vacuum thoroughly and get ready to give the carpet a good shampooing with a steam cleaner.
* You will not be able to vacuum out all of the baking soda and that's okay.
* The residue will mix with the water in the cleaning solution and help sweeten and remove the odor.
* Either use the cleaning solution that is recommended for your particular brand of steam carpet cleaner, or buy one that is compatible off the shelf; look for one that specifically states it has odor removing properties.
* Note that you should not use any detergent/soap when steam cleaning. The soap residue is impossible to remove and will end up attracting more dirt.
* Follow manufacturer's recommended instructions for steam cleaning your carpet and allow to dry thoroughly before vacuuming.
You'll be pleased at the freshness of your home once the job is done and you are finished deodorizing your carpet!
Click Here to Read Article on Mrs. Clean USA
Monday
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Do your carpets look old and run down, even after shampooing and cleaning...we found a few tips below to help your carpet shine.
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Remember when the carpet in your living room or bedroom was new? Remember how you admired it, and even invited your friends to admire it with you? Since then, it's no doubt taken quite a beating. Cigarettes have burned it and kids have run over it, tracking in mud and snagging it. The dog or cat has dirtied it up, and probably everyone in the family has spilled a drink on it a time or two. Unfortunately, replacing that carpet (and sometimes even a rug) can cost a lot of money. But what can you do, then, to bring back some of your carpet or rug's former glory?
Believe it or not, plenty! There are things you can do to fix those damaged spots. Let's talk about just a few of them.
1) Dropping cigarette or cigar ashes or stubs onto the carpet can be devastating. Once they touch, if you don't pick them up fast, they can cause permanent scarring. If you have a spot on your carpet that was once the victim of such an incident, take a look at it. As long as the burn did not go all the way through, you can get rid of the burnt spot by simply cutting it off with a pair of scissors. If, however, the burn is a bit too severe for this, measure how big the spot is. Now find some unneeded carpet from the same lot. For instance, maybe you've carpeted inside your closet with the same carpet. Cut enough for the spot, plus an extra half inch or so. Now you can simply cut out the burnt spot and replace it with the bit you took from the closet carpet. Remember, it's important to have a tight fit so that nobody will be able to tell that there is a hole there. Use carpet glue on the bottom of the plug, and then set something heavy on top of it overnight. If you've done this right, the formerly-burnt spot will look good as noon come morning.
2) Another common carpet problem is carpet fuzziness. This happens as the carpet's surface begins to get worn down and the rug fibers break. Also, as more and more grit and grime gets embedded, it speeds along the fuzz syndrome. over time, the carpet will lose many of its fibers. Much of the grime can be cleaned out with a to-quality vacuum. Then with a pair of scissors, you can get often even out the uneven rug fibers that normally accompany "the fuzzies."
3) Snagging is another problem that makes many carpets look old and worn. The most common causes for snagging are sliding large items across the floor rather than lifting them, as well as from scuffing from shoes and animal claws. You can easily correct snags with a pair of sharp scissors. Unfortunately, most people make the mistake of trying to pull on the thread, but this will only cause a run in the carpet. Remember: scissors not fingers.
4) If your carpet is stained by spills, remember that time is of the essence. Clean it immediately. Start by dabbing the stain gently with a wet sponge;; do not rub the stain. Now find something with a dull edge and scrape up any excess soil. After you've done all you can, use a commercial-strength carpet and rug cleaner. Test it first on an unseen spot (such as the carpet in your closet). If it does not cause discoloration, it's safe to use. Now dab some of it onto a dry cloth, and apply it to the stain. Use a gentle swiping motion, not too brisk. If the stain is still not gone, contact a professional carpet cleaner.
You can read the entire article from ehomeimprovement.org here
Making Your Carpet Look New Again
Remember when the carpet in your living room or bedroom was new? Remember how you admired it, and even invited your friends to admire it with you? Since then, it's no doubt taken quite a beating. Cigarettes have burned it and kids have run over it, tracking in mud and snagging it. The dog or cat has dirtied it up, and probably everyone in the family has spilled a drink on it a time or two. Unfortunately, replacing that carpet (and sometimes even a rug) can cost a lot of money. But what can you do, then, to bring back some of your carpet or rug's former glory?
Believe it or not, plenty! There are things you can do to fix those damaged spots. Let's talk about just a few of them.
1) Dropping cigarette or cigar ashes or stubs onto the carpet can be devastating. Once they touch, if you don't pick them up fast, they can cause permanent scarring. If you have a spot on your carpet that was once the victim of such an incident, take a look at it. As long as the burn did not go all the way through, you can get rid of the burnt spot by simply cutting it off with a pair of scissors. If, however, the burn is a bit too severe for this, measure how big the spot is. Now find some unneeded carpet from the same lot. For instance, maybe you've carpeted inside your closet with the same carpet. Cut enough for the spot, plus an extra half inch or so. Now you can simply cut out the burnt spot and replace it with the bit you took from the closet carpet. Remember, it's important to have a tight fit so that nobody will be able to tell that there is a hole there. Use carpet glue on the bottom of the plug, and then set something heavy on top of it overnight. If you've done this right, the formerly-burnt spot will look good as noon come morning.
2) Another common carpet problem is carpet fuzziness. This happens as the carpet's surface begins to get worn down and the rug fibers break. Also, as more and more grit and grime gets embedded, it speeds along the fuzz syndrome. over time, the carpet will lose many of its fibers. Much of the grime can be cleaned out with a to-quality vacuum. Then with a pair of scissors, you can get often even out the uneven rug fibers that normally accompany "the fuzzies."
3) Snagging is another problem that makes many carpets look old and worn. The most common causes for snagging are sliding large items across the floor rather than lifting them, as well as from scuffing from shoes and animal claws. You can easily correct snags with a pair of sharp scissors. Unfortunately, most people make the mistake of trying to pull on the thread, but this will only cause a run in the carpet. Remember: scissors not fingers.
4) If your carpet is stained by spills, remember that time is of the essence. Clean it immediately. Start by dabbing the stain gently with a wet sponge;; do not rub the stain. Now find something with a dull edge and scrape up any excess soil. After you've done all you can, use a commercial-strength carpet and rug cleaner. Test it first on an unseen spot (such as the carpet in your closet). If it does not cause discoloration, it's safe to use. Now dab some of it onto a dry cloth, and apply it to the stain. Use a gentle swiping motion, not too brisk. If the stain is still not gone, contact a professional carpet cleaner.
You can read the entire article from ehomeimprovement.org here
Wednesday
What is In Your Carpets??
Most homes have carpet in them somewhere, but one problem with carpeting is that it's a perfect home to microorganisms such as mold, mildew and dust mites. It is also a reservoir for everything you track indoors on your shoes: soil, lawn chemicals, lead dust, asbestos fibers from automotive brake linings, animal feces, and anything else found on the ground outdoors.
Wall-to wall carpeting is virtually impossible to clean thoroughly, but here are some tips to help:
1. Encourage family members to remove shoes upon entrance into the home. Pesticides, pollutants and dirt come indoors on shoes and are tracked onto carpets. If going shoeless is not acceptable to family members, suggest that they wear house shoes (that don't go outside), slippers or socks.
2. Vacuum two or more times per week. Frequent vacuuming helps reduce the level of dust mites, which trigger asthma and allergy attacks. It also means getting rid of surface dirt on carpets before it has a chance to get ground in. A vacuum cleaner with strong suction, rotating brushes and a HEPA filter, so the dirt and dust won't get blown back out in the exhaust, is best. Go back and forth over the same spot several times, especially in high traffic areas, to get all of the dirt and dust!
3. Clean up spills on carpets immediately to prevent stains. Soak up liquid spills by covering them with clean white (or light-colored) towels or paper towels. Scrape sticky substances off carpets with a spatula or spoon. Don't rub the spill. That will damage carpet fibers and make the stain spread. To clean the stain, mix 1 cup warm water and 1/2 teaspoon mild liquid soap, such as dishwashing liquid or fine fabric detergent. Apply a small amount, blot by pressing a clean white towel into the carpet and lift. Then repeat the process until the stain is removed. Don't scrub. Be patient. After stain is removed, rinse the area with a solution a few teaspoons of white vinegar to one cup water and blot with another clean towel.
4. Use household ingredients to clean carpet stains. Club soda removes red wine stains. Use an ice cube to harden gum and candle wax, then scrape off. Sprinkle greasy stains with baking soda, corn starch or corn meal. Let stand six hours or overnight. Then vacuum. Mix 1/3 cup vinegar with 2/3 cup warm water and apply to the stain. Then blot with a clean towel and repeat until the stain comes clean.
5. As a last resort carpet stain remover, try rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Test first on a hidden spot of the carpet as either substance may lighten or bleach the carpet. Apply a small amount to the stain, then blot with a clean, white towel. Repeat until the stain is gone.
6. Use baking soda to remove odor from carpets. Carpet deodorizers and fresheners often contain fragrances that merely mask the smell. Baking soda soaks up the odor. Just sprinkle baking soda over the surface of the carpet. Let it stand for 15 - 30 minutes. Then vacuum.
7. Steam clean carpets with plain water. Don't bother with the detergent. Just use water and operate the machine as directed. The hot water will remove a considerable amount of dirt, even without detergent. Alternatively, use a mixture of 1 cup white vinegar and 2-1/2 gallons of water. (Add another cup of vinegar for a stronger solution.) This is an effective way to remove shampoo residues from earlier cleaning attempts.
8. Ventilate well during and after carpet cleaning. To speed drying time and prevent mold growth, keep windows open and use fans. Avoid carpet cleaning on humid or damp days.
Information provided by Web MD
Wall-to wall carpeting is virtually impossible to clean thoroughly, but here are some tips to help:
1. Encourage family members to remove shoes upon entrance into the home. Pesticides, pollutants and dirt come indoors on shoes and are tracked onto carpets. If going shoeless is not acceptable to family members, suggest that they wear house shoes (that don't go outside), slippers or socks.
2. Vacuum two or more times per week. Frequent vacuuming helps reduce the level of dust mites, which trigger asthma and allergy attacks. It also means getting rid of surface dirt on carpets before it has a chance to get ground in. A vacuum cleaner with strong suction, rotating brushes and a HEPA filter, so the dirt and dust won't get blown back out in the exhaust, is best. Go back and forth over the same spot several times, especially in high traffic areas, to get all of the dirt and dust!
3. Clean up spills on carpets immediately to prevent stains. Soak up liquid spills by covering them with clean white (or light-colored) towels or paper towels. Scrape sticky substances off carpets with a spatula or spoon. Don't rub the spill. That will damage carpet fibers and make the stain spread. To clean the stain, mix 1 cup warm water and 1/2 teaspoon mild liquid soap, such as dishwashing liquid or fine fabric detergent. Apply a small amount, blot by pressing a clean white towel into the carpet and lift. Then repeat the process until the stain is removed. Don't scrub. Be patient. After stain is removed, rinse the area with a solution a few teaspoons of white vinegar to one cup water and blot with another clean towel.
4. Use household ingredients to clean carpet stains. Club soda removes red wine stains. Use an ice cube to harden gum and candle wax, then scrape off. Sprinkle greasy stains with baking soda, corn starch or corn meal. Let stand six hours or overnight. Then vacuum. Mix 1/3 cup vinegar with 2/3 cup warm water and apply to the stain. Then blot with a clean towel and repeat until the stain comes clean.
5. As a last resort carpet stain remover, try rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Test first on a hidden spot of the carpet as either substance may lighten or bleach the carpet. Apply a small amount to the stain, then blot with a clean, white towel. Repeat until the stain is gone.
6. Use baking soda to remove odor from carpets. Carpet deodorizers and fresheners often contain fragrances that merely mask the smell. Baking soda soaks up the odor. Just sprinkle baking soda over the surface of the carpet. Let it stand for 15 - 30 minutes. Then vacuum.
7. Steam clean carpets with plain water. Don't bother with the detergent. Just use water and operate the machine as directed. The hot water will remove a considerable amount of dirt, even without detergent. Alternatively, use a mixture of 1 cup white vinegar and 2-1/2 gallons of water. (Add another cup of vinegar for a stronger solution.) This is an effective way to remove shampoo residues from earlier cleaning attempts.
8. Ventilate well during and after carpet cleaning. To speed drying time and prevent mold growth, keep windows open and use fans. Avoid carpet cleaning on humid or damp days.
Information provided by Web MD
Maintaining High Traffice Areas
Another great answer provided by IICRC.org
The following steps should be taken when dealing with carpet in a high-traffic area:
* It's a good idea to keep sand, grit and grass clippings off walkways outside entries to prevent inward tracking of these abrasive soils.
* Purchase a properly sized entry mat (the bigger the better, but there must be room for at least two steps to sufficiently wipe soil from feet before encountering the installed carpet). Nylon face, vinyl back for better moisture and oils absorption, combined with the resiliency necessary to collect a quantity of particle soil. The IICRC suggests a rental mat, since that guarantees frequent maintenance. Place entry mats on hard surfaces rather than on carpet where they can trap moisture or cause plasticizer migration.
* Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum; daily, especially after major events. The sooner you collect soils from the surface, the easier it is to remove them. For most carpet, you should use an upright vacuum with brush agitation, unless your canister vacuum is particularly well designed. The wider the head, the more efficient.
* Use high-efficiency double-lined poly-fiber collection bags. This reduces periodic maintenance such as dusting of furniture, Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) filter exchange.
* Typically, deep cleaning should be accomplished on at least a semi-annual basis, with no more than two entry and high-traffic area "rinse" cleanings between the deep cleaning. This is dependent on traffic and daily maintenance as well. At a minimum, some attention should be given to primary entry areas on a quarterly basis.
* If spots are treated immediately, most will respond with plain warm water and very little mild detergent added.
* Make sure the HVAC system is slightly positively pressurized as well (air going out when doors are opened, rather than being sucked in). Proper air exchange rates can be calibrated according to ASHRAE regulations for the building with a trained HVAC contractor.
* Ensure proper air filtration through the HVAC System. High-efficiency pleated filters, rather than inexpensive fiberglass filters, are recommended.
The following steps should be taken when dealing with carpet in a high-traffic area:
* It's a good idea to keep sand, grit and grass clippings off walkways outside entries to prevent inward tracking of these abrasive soils.
* Purchase a properly sized entry mat (the bigger the better, but there must be room for at least two steps to sufficiently wipe soil from feet before encountering the installed carpet). Nylon face, vinyl back for better moisture and oils absorption, combined with the resiliency necessary to collect a quantity of particle soil. The IICRC suggests a rental mat, since that guarantees frequent maintenance. Place entry mats on hard surfaces rather than on carpet where they can trap moisture or cause plasticizer migration.
* Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum; daily, especially after major events. The sooner you collect soils from the surface, the easier it is to remove them. For most carpet, you should use an upright vacuum with brush agitation, unless your canister vacuum is particularly well designed. The wider the head, the more efficient.
* Use high-efficiency double-lined poly-fiber collection bags. This reduces periodic maintenance such as dusting of furniture, Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) filter exchange.
* Typically, deep cleaning should be accomplished on at least a semi-annual basis, with no more than two entry and high-traffic area "rinse" cleanings between the deep cleaning. This is dependent on traffic and daily maintenance as well. At a minimum, some attention should be given to primary entry areas on a quarterly basis.
* If spots are treated immediately, most will respond with plain warm water and very little mild detergent added.
* Make sure the HVAC system is slightly positively pressurized as well (air going out when doors are opened, rather than being sucked in). Proper air exchange rates can be calibrated according to ASHRAE regulations for the building with a trained HVAC contractor.
* Ensure proper air filtration through the HVAC System. High-efficiency pleated filters, rather than inexpensive fiberglass filters, are recommended.
How often should I get my carpets cleaned?
This material below was provided by IICRC.org.
Frequently used carpet should be professionally cleaned by a qualified technician at least annually - perhaps a little longer interval for infrequently used carpet and even sooner for carpet in homes occupied by respiratory sensitive or allergic persons; or in homes with indoor pets.
The following chart from the IICRC S100 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Carpet Cleaning serves as a guideline for recommending cleaning frequencies for carpet. They consider traffic, soil rating, vacuuming schedules, spot cleaning schedules, and professional interim and restorative cleaning.
(Click on the Image below to view cleaning schedule):
Frequently used carpet should be professionally cleaned by a qualified technician at least annually - perhaps a little longer interval for infrequently used carpet and even sooner for carpet in homes occupied by respiratory sensitive or allergic persons; or in homes with indoor pets.
The following chart from the IICRC S100 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Carpet Cleaning serves as a guideline for recommending cleaning frequencies for carpet. They consider traffic, soil rating, vacuuming schedules, spot cleaning schedules, and professional interim and restorative cleaning.
(Click on the Image below to view cleaning schedule):
Tuesday
Troubleshooting Common Carpet Issues
We found this great article from the The Carpet and Rug Institute
Texture surface retention
Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.
Crushing
Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce crushing that results from traffic. Manufacturers’ definitions of crushing may vary.
Depressions or indentations
The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.
Fading or color loss
Give your carpet the normal protection from direct sunlight that you would give to any colored fabric. Emissions from heating systems or chemicals, such as pesticides, household cleaning agents and other household items, can also result in color loss.
Filtration soil
Filtration soil may appear as dark or grayish lines on carpet along walls, stairways and under doors. It is caused by airflow over and through carpet, allowing fine soils to settle on the surface. It is often caused by an improperly balanced ventilation system, when the volume of air entering a room exceeds the system’s capacity to remove air from the room. Excess air then seeks exit sources in gaps along walls and stairways. Prevent the airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing openings through the carpet and under doors and baseboards. Keeping the air in the area clean and using good filtration in your heating and cooling systems and vacuum cleaners can help. Filtration soils may require special cleaning treatment for effective removal. Contact a carpet-cleaning professional for assistance.
Fluffing and shedding
The balls of fluff, or loose fibers, found on carpet or in the vacuum cleaner bag are the normal result of fiber left in the carpet from the manufacturing process. Removing these loose fibers does not affect carpet life or appearance. Because of their large size, these fibers are too big to become airborne or to be breathed in. With proper vacuuming and using a quality vacuum cleaner, most shedding gradually disappears within the first year after installation.
Matting
Manufacturers’ definitions of matting may vary. Matting is usually the result of the untwisting of the yarn and the intermingling of the yarn tips through foot traffic. Matting may be caused by various factors, including an improperly specified cushion, cushion failure, or improper maintenance. Matting is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty.
Moth, beetle and flea control
Most wool and wool-blend carpet made in the United States is permanently treated to prevent moth damage. Carpet and rugs of manufactured (synthetic) fibers are naturally resistant to insects, because such fibers are not a food source and are resistant to beetles, commonly called carpet beetles. However, beetles already in the home may lay eggs in the carpet pile and hatch in 8 to 15 days. Pet owners also may find fleas on their carpet. Fleas will not damage the carpet and will die there, unless they find another animal to sustain them. Frequent vacuuming aids in the control of fleas on carpet; just be sure to change the vacuum bag often. For assistance in removing beetles or other insects, contact a professional pest control specialist.
Odor
During and immediately following the installation of your new carpet, there may be a slight odor, which may result from the removal of your old carpet and cushion or from the new carpet, cushion, adhesives or seaming tape. Ventilation with fresh air is recommended. Ideally, windows and doors should be opened, and the HVAC system should be operated at maximum capacity for 48 to 72 hours.
Soiling
Maintain the beauty of your carpet by cleaning it regularly before it becomes excessively soiled. Dirty, airborne particles may be deposited on carpet, causing dulling. Dulling is caused by the deposits of all types of soil. For example, a delicate rose color may gradually become a neutral taupe because of soil, while light blue may take on a dull, gray-green hue. Red clay soil also can cause a pronounced change in some colors. In spite of such phenomena, the original color of a carpet is not lost; it is still present under the soil. Oily soil may be very difficult to remove after it has been on the carpet for a long time, and it may be actually absorbed into the fiber, causing the carpet to have a yellow cast. Frequent cleanings are important to avoid this problem. Entry mats at doorways trap soil, and combined with routine cleaning and vacuuming, provide extra protection for all floor coverings.
Sprouting
Occasionally, a yarn tuft will rise above the pile surface of a carpet. Just snip off these tufts to the level of the other tufts. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT. If this problem persists in a localized area, contact your flooring contractor or manufacturer’s representative.
Stain-resistant carpet
Almost all carpet manufactured today has finishes that make it more stain- and soil-resistant, but no carpet is entirely stainproof. It still requires care. Remove spots and spills promptly. If spills or soils are allowed to remain, they may become permanent. Call the phone number normally found on the carpet warranty to obtain specific information about cleaning the carpet.
Topical treatments
Topical treatments include soil retardants, stain repellents, antistatic treatments and deodorizers. The use of after-market, topical treatments without the express approval of the carpet manufacturer prior to application may void applicable warranties.
Wear
Most carpet manufacturers offer “wear” warranties of various time lengths. According to these warranties, “wear” is defined as the loss of pile weight or pile fiber (usually 10 percent) due to abrasive loss of fiber by weight. What appears to be wear, or pile fiber loss, may actually be matting, crushing or permanent fiber damage caused by soiling rather than loss of fiber. There is seldom actual loss of pile fiber. (See also Matting, Crushing.)
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles in carpet are most often caused by a failure to stretch the carpet correctly using a power stretcher, the use of an incorrect or failed cushion, or excessive temperature and/or humidity. Ripples can be caused by a combination of any of the above. If ripples or buckles develop, consult your carpet retailer. Generally, the problem can be corrected by a qualified carpet installer who reinstalls the carpet with a power stretcher.
Texture surface retention
Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.
Crushing
Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce crushing that results from traffic. Manufacturers’ definitions of crushing may vary.
Depressions or indentations
The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.
Fading or color loss
Give your carpet the normal protection from direct sunlight that you would give to any colored fabric. Emissions from heating systems or chemicals, such as pesticides, household cleaning agents and other household items, can also result in color loss.
Filtration soil
Filtration soil may appear as dark or grayish lines on carpet along walls, stairways and under doors. It is caused by airflow over and through carpet, allowing fine soils to settle on the surface. It is often caused by an improperly balanced ventilation system, when the volume of air entering a room exceeds the system’s capacity to remove air from the room. Excess air then seeks exit sources in gaps along walls and stairways. Prevent the airflow through carpet and carpet edges by sealing openings through the carpet and under doors and baseboards. Keeping the air in the area clean and using good filtration in your heating and cooling systems and vacuum cleaners can help. Filtration soils may require special cleaning treatment for effective removal. Contact a carpet-cleaning professional for assistance.
Fluffing and shedding
The balls of fluff, or loose fibers, found on carpet or in the vacuum cleaner bag are the normal result of fiber left in the carpet from the manufacturing process. Removing these loose fibers does not affect carpet life or appearance. Because of their large size, these fibers are too big to become airborne or to be breathed in. With proper vacuuming and using a quality vacuum cleaner, most shedding gradually disappears within the first year after installation.
Matting
Manufacturers’ definitions of matting may vary. Matting is usually the result of the untwisting of the yarn and the intermingling of the yarn tips through foot traffic. Matting may be caused by various factors, including an improperly specified cushion, cushion failure, or improper maintenance. Matting is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty.
Moth, beetle and flea control
Most wool and wool-blend carpet made in the United States is permanently treated to prevent moth damage. Carpet and rugs of manufactured (synthetic) fibers are naturally resistant to insects, because such fibers are not a food source and are resistant to beetles, commonly called carpet beetles. However, beetles already in the home may lay eggs in the carpet pile and hatch in 8 to 15 days. Pet owners also may find fleas on their carpet. Fleas will not damage the carpet and will die there, unless they find another animal to sustain them. Frequent vacuuming aids in the control of fleas on carpet; just be sure to change the vacuum bag often. For assistance in removing beetles or other insects, contact a professional pest control specialist.
Odor
During and immediately following the installation of your new carpet, there may be a slight odor, which may result from the removal of your old carpet and cushion or from the new carpet, cushion, adhesives or seaming tape. Ventilation with fresh air is recommended. Ideally, windows and doors should be opened, and the HVAC system should be operated at maximum capacity for 48 to 72 hours.
Soiling
Maintain the beauty of your carpet by cleaning it regularly before it becomes excessively soiled. Dirty, airborne particles may be deposited on carpet, causing dulling. Dulling is caused by the deposits of all types of soil. For example, a delicate rose color may gradually become a neutral taupe because of soil, while light blue may take on a dull, gray-green hue. Red clay soil also can cause a pronounced change in some colors. In spite of such phenomena, the original color of a carpet is not lost; it is still present under the soil. Oily soil may be very difficult to remove after it has been on the carpet for a long time, and it may be actually absorbed into the fiber, causing the carpet to have a yellow cast. Frequent cleanings are important to avoid this problem. Entry mats at doorways trap soil, and combined with routine cleaning and vacuuming, provide extra protection for all floor coverings.
Sprouting
Occasionally, a yarn tuft will rise above the pile surface of a carpet. Just snip off these tufts to the level of the other tufts. DO NOT PULL THEM OUT. If this problem persists in a localized area, contact your flooring contractor or manufacturer’s representative.
Stain-resistant carpet
Almost all carpet manufactured today has finishes that make it more stain- and soil-resistant, but no carpet is entirely stainproof. It still requires care. Remove spots and spills promptly. If spills or soils are allowed to remain, they may become permanent. Call the phone number normally found on the carpet warranty to obtain specific information about cleaning the carpet.
Topical treatments
Topical treatments include soil retardants, stain repellents, antistatic treatments and deodorizers. The use of after-market, topical treatments without the express approval of the carpet manufacturer prior to application may void applicable warranties.
Wear
Most carpet manufacturers offer “wear” warranties of various time lengths. According to these warranties, “wear” is defined as the loss of pile weight or pile fiber (usually 10 percent) due to abrasive loss of fiber by weight. What appears to be wear, or pile fiber loss, may actually be matting, crushing or permanent fiber damage caused by soiling rather than loss of fiber. There is seldom actual loss of pile fiber. (See also Matting, Crushing.)
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles
Wrinkles, ripples and buckles in carpet are most often caused by a failure to stretch the carpet correctly using a power stretcher, the use of an incorrect or failed cushion, or excessive temperature and/or humidity. Ripples can be caused by a combination of any of the above. If ripples or buckles develop, consult your carpet retailer. Generally, the problem can be corrected by a qualified carpet installer who reinstalls the carpet with a power stretcher.
Monday
Remove Water Stains from Carpet
If you have a small water stain on your carpet check out the video below on how to remove the stain.
Saturday
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